Crestline x DJI - RS 181 SPECTRE Edition

The amount of data available and the way you can customize how it's displayed is pretty amazing. Coming from an ep801 the bar is WAY low but still, it's super intuitive and clean. I can't wait to see what they come up with next.

The advanced features are way cool. Anyone using the chain protection or hub pre-engage features? What's the sensation like when pedaling, are they noticeable?
 
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John_likes_bikes said:
The amount of data available and the way you can customize how it's displayed is pretty amazing. Coming from an ep801 the bar is WAY low but still, it's super intuitive and clean. I can't wait to see what they come up with next.

The advanced features are way cool. Anyone using the chain protection or hub pre-engage features? What's the sensation like when pedaling, are they noticeable?
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I’m utilizing the chain protection option. It caught me off guard the first time I felt it but that’s because it was doing its job; I felt the power slightly back off when I was grinding up a steep climb and had to shift. I have not noticed it since.
I’m not yet familiar with the hub pre-engage features. ?
 
I wont be riding my RS181 for at least a week. What’s best for the battery; leave it at 4% or charge it to the lowest charge setting which is 70%? I was going to charge it to 20-30% and leave it but the lowest charge setting appears to be 70%.
I ask because I’ve never ran an emtb battery down this low before. Before this bike, 16% was the lowest I had gone.
 
AlumiPro said:
I wont be riding my RS181 for at least a week. What’s best for the battery; leave it at 4% or charge it to the lowest charge setting which is 70%? I was going to charge it to 20-30% and leave it but the lowest charge setting appears to be 70%.
I ask because I’ve never ran an emtb battery down this low before. Before this bike, 16% was the lowest I had gone.
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Low is not good for batteries. I would keep it plugged in and set to 70% myself.
 
AlumiPro said:
I wont be riding my RS181 for at least a week. What’s best for the battery; leave it at 4% or charge it to the lowest charge setting which is 70%? I was going to charge it to 20-30% and leave it but the lowest charge setting appears to be 70%.
I ask because I’ve never ran an emtb battery down this low before. Before this bike, 16% was the lowest I had gone.
Click to expand...

These batteries are best stored between 30-70% charge.
The first time before you ever use a new battery you should charge to 100%.

Ideally you only charge to 80%, and run it down to 20%. But studies with cars show there is no practical difference with going 90-10%.
Every 10th charge, charge to 100% to rebalance the cells.
No need to ever go to 0% unless your ride takes you there. Put it on the charger as soon as you can though.
Cold never hurts them, although it lowers the power available as the discharge rate slows and charging can become very slow.
Heat however over about 100' F is bad for them (although it can increase power). So try not to store them in a heated garage or the like, in TX anyways.

The truth is that bike batteries are cheap enough and used rarely enough (compared to an EV car) that you could break all of these rules and it might not matter much.
 
AlumiPro said:
I wont be riding my RS181 for at least a week. What’s best for the battery; leave it at 4% or charge it to the lowest charge setting which is 70%? I was going to charge it to 20-30% and leave it but the lowest charge setting appears to be 70%.
I ask because I’ve never ran an emtb battery down this low before. Before this bike, 16% was the lowest I had gone.
Click to expand...

Most of the ‘rules’ around batteries were written a long time ago, and not for the chemistries or BMS we have now.

One thing that will kill a battery though is leaving it to go completely flat, so out of your options leaving it at 70% would be best.

I tend to leave mine around half charged if I can, if I know they’re not going to be used for a while.
 
AlumiPro said:
I’m not yet familiar with the hub pre-engage features. ?
Click to expand...
It's in the Advanced Setting menu. I read it as a setting to take up the engagement slack in the rear hub when you start pedaling so you don't feel it when starting to pedal, or something like that.
 
John_likes_bikes said:
WAY over. PDF's, QR codes and "there's an app for that." I think IKEA is your only hold out.
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Yeah QR codes are a cool way to.
My previous Crestline came with a fat Bosch manual and Crestline even had some paperwork on how to properly ride a bicycle. Very informative, I’m a much better rider now 😜
 
Wilonrs said:
Does anybody know when will spare batteries be available? Don't tell me you don't do such rides for +2k meters (6,5k ft) with high assistance :LOL:
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I was thinking the same thing, but did that yesterday one 1 battery. My other emtb is a santa cruz bullit with ep8 and 630wh battery. Now im convinced those batteries are functioning at like 400wh each after a few years of use. I regularly do 2 battery rides, but seeming 1 might be sufficient with the dji 800wh. I am 220 lbs with gear and was using power levels equivalent to the EP8 on trail mode. If you leave the power assist at the default levels you'll be going through way more battery, but it will have way more power than necessary imho.

I found a 400wh bottle cage range extender for avinox offered out of Europe, but have not received a response. I think with 1200 wh, theres no need for a 2nd battery ever.

Screenshot_20250814_205434_Strava.jpg
 
letsgomoreplaces said:
I was thinking the same thing, but did that yesterday one 1 battery. My other emtb is a santa cruz bullit with ep8 and 630wh battery. Now im convinced those batteries are functioning at like 400wh each after a few years of use. I regularly do 2 battery rides, but seeming 1 might be sufficient with the dji 800wh. I am 220 lbs with gear and was using power levels equivalent to the EP8 on trail mode. If you leave the power assist at the default levels you'll be going through way more battery, but it will have way more power than necessary imho.

I found a 400wh bottle cage range extender for avinox offered out of Europe, but have not received a response. I think with 1200 wh, theres no need for a 2nd battery ever.

View attachment 166325
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What Avinox setting(s) did you do this ride in? Care to share screen shots of you assist level settings?
 
John_likes_bikes said:
It's in the Advanced Setting menu. I read it as a setting to take up the engagement slack in the rear hub when you start pedaling so you don't feel it when starting to pedal, or something like that.
Click to expand...
Mine was already set on.
I wonder if this would cause more motor rattle, sounds like the motor would be taking up my SideKick hub slack?!…..but only when I’m pedaling it states. 🤔
I think I’ll be turning this off for my next ride to listen to the difference.
UPDATE: holy crap this feature drastically changes how the assisted power comes on!! Put your bike in a stand with the rear tire off the ground, change the setting and push the pedals and see what you notice! Wow
This is fascinating. I really want to get back on the trail now and try it without this setting on.

IMG_2798.jpeg
 
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That's intriguing actually. Although it might be increasing rattle and pedal kickback.
 
As @Rob Rides EMTB described it:

QuickStart:​

This makes the motor engage faster. Before, it needed a bit more crank rotation before kicking in. Now, it reacts almost instantly to pressure — brilliant for steep techy climbs where timing matters.

I could see this being helpful in many situations when climbing. Since it's pedal induced I wouldn't think it would contribute to rattles or kickback.
 
John_likes_bikes said:
As @Rob Rides EMTB described it:

QuickStart:​

This makes the motor engage faster. Before, it needed a bit more crank rotation before kicking in. Now, it reacts almost instantly to pressure — brilliant for steep techy climbs where timing matters.

I could see this being helpful in many situations when climbing. Since it's pedal induced I wouldn't think it would contribute to rattles or kickback.
Click to expand...
If you’re replying to what I’m talking about, I wasn’t talking about QuickStart. QuickStart is the option below the Freehub Pre-Engagement in the menu.
But both of these options turned ON may be the reason I felt the sensation that all the rider has to do is rest there feet on the pedals and away you go.
I’m definitely turning these off for my next ride to feel and hear what I prefer.

IMG_2798.jpeg IMG_2802.jpeg
 
For those who installed the AXS derailleur battery cable, does the motor need to be dropped to get to the connection?
 
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AlumiPro said:
If you’re replying to what I’m talking about, I wasn’t talking about QuickStart. QuickStart is the option below the Freehub Pre-Engagement in the menu.
But both of these options turned ON may be the reason I felt the sensation that all the rider has to do is rest there feet on the pedals and away you go.
I’m definitely turning these off for my next ride to feel and hear what I prefer.
Click to expand...
Only had one cup of coffee at the time... in regards to Quickstart, I can see that function feeling very unnatural and odd.
 
BikingBad said:
For those who installed the AXS derailleur battery cable, does the motor need to be dropper to get to the connection?
Click to expand...
As I mentioned in the past, just remove the forward motor bolt. The motor will rotate down on the rear bolt, giving you enough room to access the cable.
Blue loctite and torque motor bolts to 15Nm.
 
AlumiPro said:
Mine was already set on.
I wonder if this would cause more motor rattle, sounds like the motor would be taking up my SideKick hub slack?!…..but only when I’m pedaling it states. 🤔
I think I’ll be turning this off for my next ride to listen to the difference.
UPDATE: holy crap this feature drastically changes how the assisted power comes on!! Put your bike in a stand with the rear tire off the ground, change the setting and push the pedals and see what you notice! Wow
This is fascinating. I really want to get back on the trail now and try it without this setting on.
Click to expand...
Was this feature in the original firmware? It's really insane that DJI is so fine-grain in it's product design as to specifically address hub slack, an aspect of motor performance we are just no starting to contend with in recent anti-pedal kickback tech suchs a O-chain and Sidekick. Whether DJI is successful here remains to be seen, if not causing more problems than solving. Yet another thing to geek on about.
 
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