Then it may only be paint cracked from the backlash, they did not look like structural damage, I replaced the topcap, nothing crunches, squeaks, no play,
the original cracking nose was probably from backlash too
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Then it may only be paint cracked from the backlash, they did not look like structural damage, I replaced the topcap, nothing crunches, squeaks, no play,
Why?Amflow should send you a new frame.
....
By the way, the star nut and top cap are just to pre-tension the headset assembly, the clamping force of the stem on the fork steerer then keeps it tight, not the top cap. You could remove that completely and your forks won’t fall out.
Assuming of course that when the forks were changed the correct procedure for tightening the forks against the bearings was followed.
I always tighten all bolts with a torque wrench to the required torque. The maximum torque is indicated on many bolts. For topcap it is 4nmOf course!
I’ve seen top caps bent in the middle after somebody has applied masses of torque to try and ‘tighten the headset’ when it was actually bottoming out against the top of the steerer, needed one more stem spacer.
I always tighten all bolts with a torque wrench to the required torque. The maximum torque is indicated on many bolts. For topcap it is 4nm
I regreased my headset bearings, during routine maintenance, at the weekend and noticed the cups in my frame have a lot of filler and are pretty uneven. They also show obvious signs of reworking/ manual dressing. They look similar to yours except without the cracks as far as I can see.I'm not being evasive, I don't know what to answer you.
I have no idea what could have left those marks. They don't feel with your fingers, nothing is pressed in, it's smooth and even, it's the glare from the flash on the camera. I'll take better photos and video today. I also asked the guys from our club to check if they have similar marks.
View attachment 164557 
I have no cracks in the bearing fit area.I regreased my headset bearings, during routine maintenance, at the weekend and noticed the cups in my frame have a lot of filler and are pretty uneven. They also show obvious signs of reworking/ manual dressing. They look similar too yours except without the cracks as far as I can see.
This is the first time my headset has been disassembled and the forks are standard and have never shown any sign of slop or movement in the headset.
View attachment 164554 View attachment 164555
I have no cracks in the bearing fit area.
I can saw off a piece of the frame and send it to them for research, no problem.Amflow will likely want to inspect the frame though, which means getting it back to your mate in China presumably?
I regreased my headset bearings, during routine maintenance, at the weekend and noticed the cups in my frame have a lot of filler and are pretty uneven. They also show obvious signs of reworking/ manual dressing. They look similar too yours except without the cracks as far as I can see.
This is the first time my headset has been disassembled and the forks are standard and have never shown any sign of slop or movement in the headset.
That's why I took the pictures, I was shocked at the finish to be honest.Have you sent this to Amflow? That finish is awful
Yes, I was referring to the cracks from the corners of the knock-block slot.I have no cracks in the bearing fit area.
That shouldn't pass QC in any way. I would note that in a communication to Amflow today. You have to think those imperfections are going to lead to high pressure areas and cracks at some point, like the OP.I regreased my headset bearings, during routine maintenance, at the weekend and noticed the cups in my frame have a lot of filler and are pretty uneven. They also show obvious signs of reworking/ manual dressing. They look similar to yours except without the cracks as far as I can see.
This is the first time my headset has been disassembled and the forks are standard and have never shown any sign of slop or movement in the headset.
I'll be honest. I am amused at people buying undergunned frames, slapping big forks on them and then wondering why they are having problems.
Why not spec a grunty build from the begining rather than buy a lighter weeker bike then try and make it into something that it isn't?
The original threadless headset designs came with plastic top caps. The top cap should be the first point of failure if the system is over-tightened. (Or maybe second, with the 1st being the star-nut getting pulled upwards).I’ve seen top caps bent in the middle after somebody has applied masses of torque to try and ‘tighten the headset’ when it was actually bottoming out against the top of the steerer, needed one more stem spacer.
Warrantees notwithstanding.OP has increased the bikes fork by 10mm. Amflow clearly states this is ok on their website.
Don't see why he or anyone else wouldn't be annoyed if their frame cracked in such a short time, especially if amflow turn around and say it's not their problem without inspecting the bike.
If I had an amflow I'd have the forks out now to check the carbon over
I think it's very unlikely you could crack a headtube by over-tightening the headset unless something else was wrong (like a QC issue, incorrectly installed headset, wrong headset spec, etc). The headset cap/star nut design is a failsafe.
Riding with a loose headset would could do it though. I've seen that happen.
Any quality brand would at least offer a discounted crash replacement.
... we’re seeing pics of the headset area…
I am with you on this .Also saying "I am not doing big jumps and drops etc"....why did you put beefy fork with more travel then?I'll be honest. I am amused at people buying undergunned frames, slapping big forks on them and then wondering why they are having problems.
Why not spec a grunty build from the begining rather than buy a lighter weeker bike then try and make it into something that it isn't?
Amflow should send you a new frame. How much is the cost price per frame for Amflow? 50$, 100$?
It doesn't matter, once fork was replaced and quite poorly by the look of it it had given Amflow options to refuse warranty regardless who is to blame.The people coming to the defense of Amflown in this scenario is disgusting.
If the issue was exclusively noise, sure we could debate the lower crown race and its installation. The crack at the head tube and down tube junction (the real issue here) was absolutely not due to the installation of the lower crown race or bearing. If it was crown race or bearing installation, we’d see failure in the region Amflown is noting the grooves, where the bearing race actually rests.
Nobody is saying it was but that gives Amflow excuse all I am saying.Even if fitting process (done by cavemen not professional)wasn't reason for frame cracking, Amflow will claim it was and they will get away with.But if they really care about customers and try to get bigger platform giving you new frame of hefty discount would be good idea.Guys, stop fantasizing and trying to find fault.
the stock fox 36 fork was replaced with a fox 38 due to my weight! I weigh 110kg and the stock fork works very poorly for my weight, only for this reason I changed it for a more plush fork. And amflow allows 170mm forks.
And replacing the fork is 100% not the cause of frame cracks!