Eyuplad
Member
+1 for the AVS motor guard. Looks a bit agricultural, but it’s got way more muscle to it than the crappy stock plastic cover.
Cube one77 2025
- Thread starter Rando_12345
- Start date
Some experience I thought worth sharing, having spent the past few weeks using a friend's Shockwiz to dial in the suspension on my AT variant. It's got the Fox Factory suspension (eMTB tuned too it says on the side), but I think the basics will apply to the other variants with the 38 forks and Float X2 shock (not so sure about those with the Float X shock).
38 Forks. The 38 fork needed way less pressure than Fox say to get the 20% sag and the Shockwiz confirmed this pressure was good after a few rides; I'm 93 Kg on the XL frame and ended up with 89 psi in the forks. Pressure aside, the Shockwiz was happy with the number of volume spacers and the stock rebound and compression settings from Fox (based on my 89 psi base pressure) were confirmed as fine. So far so good.
Float X2 Shock. This comes with only 1 volume spacer and Fox allows up to 4. I didn't get any more in the bits and bobs Cube provides with the bike, so I had to buy some more to make any changes. They come in bags of 3 for around £13; daylight robbery for some basic bits of plastic. Base pressure for 25% sag ended up at 215 psi for me. Shockwiz was happy with that base pressure, but each week I've progressively had to add more volume spacers. This doesn't surprise me, as I was constantly bottoming out the rear shock with the one token. Two tokens and I could still feel a hard bottom out on harder jumps and drops. Three tokens in and things felt better and I couldn't 'feel' the bottom out, but Shockwiz still wanted me to add more. I'm now on 4 tokens and things are where they should be and I can start checking the other rebound and compression settings (With Shockwiz you have to get pressure right, before moving onto tokens, before then moving onto rebound and compression settings in the order given - if you try to jump down the order, it doesn't work).
So what? Be prepared to add more volume spacers to the Float X2 shock. It might be that I'm particularly hard on rear suspension, but it feels to me that the short chainstay and/or suspension kinematics for this bike makes it rearward weight biased, so you dive through the shock's travel quicker than you would normally expect; hence you will likely need the extra ramp up in pressure that adding more volume spacers to the shock will provide (especially for heavier folks). I suspect more volume spacers in the shock will also help with scrapes from the low BB, as the extra ramp up support should see the bike riding ever so slightly higher. It's just a shame extra volume spacers don't come with the bike, especially as there's only one of a possible four in the shock from manufacture/delivery.
38 Forks. The 38 fork needed way less pressure than Fox say to get the 20% sag and the Shockwiz confirmed this pressure was good after a few rides; I'm 93 Kg on the XL frame and ended up with 89 psi in the forks. Pressure aside, the Shockwiz was happy with the number of volume spacers and the stock rebound and compression settings from Fox (based on my 89 psi base pressure) were confirmed as fine. So far so good.
Float X2 Shock. This comes with only 1 volume spacer and Fox allows up to 4. I didn't get any more in the bits and bobs Cube provides with the bike, so I had to buy some more to make any changes. They come in bags of 3 for around £13; daylight robbery for some basic bits of plastic. Base pressure for 25% sag ended up at 215 psi for me. Shockwiz was happy with that base pressure, but each week I've progressively had to add more volume spacers. This doesn't surprise me, as I was constantly bottoming out the rear shock with the one token. Two tokens and I could still feel a hard bottom out on harder jumps and drops. Three tokens in and things felt better and I couldn't 'feel' the bottom out, but Shockwiz still wanted me to add more. I'm now on 4 tokens and things are where they should be and I can start checking the other rebound and compression settings (With Shockwiz you have to get pressure right, before moving onto tokens, before then moving onto rebound and compression settings in the order given - if you try to jump down the order, it doesn't work).
So what? Be prepared to add more volume spacers to the Float X2 shock. It might be that I'm particularly hard on rear suspension, but it feels to me that the short chainstay and/or suspension kinematics for this bike makes it rearward weight biased, so you dive through the shock's travel quicker than you would normally expect; hence you will likely need the extra ramp up in pressure that adding more volume spacers to the shock will provide (especially for heavier folks). I suspect more volume spacers in the shock will also help with scrapes from the low BB, as the extra ramp up support should see the bike riding ever so slightly higher. It's just a shame extra volume spacers don't come with the bike, especially as there's only one of a possible four in the shock from manufacture/delivery.
Last edited:
Good write
Did you leave all 3 spacers in your fork?
I'm about the same weight, removed all 3 spacers, riding with about 90PSI, and the fork is still too progressive for my likings.
The X2 shock is working flawless.
Yes, as Shockwiz was happy with the number of spacers and that correlates well with how much travel I‘ve used after a hard ride. I wouldn’t want to go less, as I’d have to up the pressure and that would make it too hard. I found with another bike running the Fox 38, that extra volume spacers allow you to run slightly lower pressure that makes the forks feel plush like they are supposed to, without banging through all the travel.
Rando_12345
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #396
Weird one this morning:
Cycled to work, went to badge to get into my campus, the bars twisted around 90degrees. Lost all power and couldn't restart, a quick Google and found it was probably the controller cable. Fixed it in a few minutes, the cable had been completely ripped out of the socket
Especially weird that a cable was pulled out due to twisting bars, considering that cable isn't connected to the bars at all!!! It must be getting punched around by the brakes and gear cable coming through the headset.
Cycled to work, went to badge to get into my campus, the bars twisted around 90degrees. Lost all power and couldn't restart, a quick Google and found it was probably the controller cable. Fixed it in a few minutes, the cable had been completely ripped out of the socket
Especially weird that a cable was pulled out due to twisting bars, considering that cable isn't connected to the bars at all!!! It must be getting punched around by the brakes and gear cable coming through the headset.
I’ve got about 30cm of free cable, stuffed into the top tube, to the controller on my bike. So that does sound strange.
Got a pair of Hope5 hubs with FR541 rims inbound. That should make the bike a tank all in all.
Freshly built with a bit of bling added! Just waiting on the MMX mount dropper lever and Ridewrap to arrive. Swapped out the Magura MT7s for the Mavens from my old bike.
Only ridden around the neighbourhood so far, but with 175psi in the rear shock and me at 72kg kitted up, I'm still almost blowing through all the travel—definitely seconding FlashtoBang's comment about the base tune being way too light.
Only ridden around the neighbourhood so far, but with 175psi in the rear shock and me at 72kg kitted up, I'm still almost blowing through all the travel—definitely seconding FlashtoBang's comment about the base tune being way too light.
Rando_12345
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #401
Tried and failed.
I attempted it over 2 different rides, with 2 different mounting hardwares (i.e. the stock reducers and the ones from offset bushing), one of which was extremely tight. In all cases, a few bunny hops or at the best the first 50cm drop and the bushing rolls 180 degrees into an even slacker configuration. You could try roughing up the outside of the bushing with very coarse sand paper or using some kind of glue/locktite if you are incredibly brave. It's only around 30e to test and a few minutes of setup if you have the right tools, would love if someone found a trick to make them stay in the steeper position.
This is not new information, but to save people having to scroll through many pages.
Out of the Box: BB height 334mm
2.6 tyres front and back: +3mm, BB 337mm. <- Currently on Continental Kryptotal 2.6 front and back, these are the largest tyres that will fit the rear, not recommended in wet season as clearance is tiny. This will get you an extra 2mm of BB height on top of my first measurement.
+ Headset cups in steep mode: +2mm, BB 339mm, HA 64.4
This will void your warranty:
+ 190mm fork: BB 345mm (head angle around 64degrees with steep cups)
So with all the above I am at around 347mm BB height, which combined with the 140mm cranks has resulted in barely any crank hits (as in: not even grazes). Tempted to go to 145mm cranks as my 140mm cranks are very cheap and probably have too wide a Q-factor.
Thanks Rando, great response and I appreciate you saving me the time spent scrolling through the older posts!
I use PINND cranks at 145 (or 140mm, I can't remember) and they seem solid enough.
I've just ground off and replaced all the bent pins on my composite Burgtec pedals, very boring.
All I'm after is a 10mm lift, it's quite frustrating.
Off to the French alps next month so it'll be interesting to see how it performs where the focus is more on DH. Saying that, it does well on the UK's trail where I look for the most DH focussed lines - they're just not as long as those Alpine trails but plenty steep and techy.
I use PINND cranks at 145 (or 140mm, I can't remember) and they seem solid enough.
I've just ground off and replaced all the bent pins on my composite Burgtec pedals, very boring.
All I'm after is a 10mm lift, it's quite frustrating.
Off to the French alps next month so it'll be interesting to see how it performs where the focus is more on DH. Saying that, it does well on the UK's trail where I look for the most DH focussed lines - they're just not as long as those Alpine trails but plenty steep and techy.
deertrackdoctor
Active member
Keep a close eye on the ratchet ring teeth and pawls on the Pro 5 hub .I've been having issues with the top of the ratchet ring teeth braking off .Swiftly repaired under hope warranty but a pain in the arse sending it back to be reconditioned
deertrackdoctor
Active member
Thanks for sharing I feel validated as I always find the fox recommended for psi way too high for me .There recommendation seems to be on the ra e end of the spectrum.
I'm 90kg and ended up with same psi and settings as you through trial and error
Behold!
If you thought the original AVS guard was agricultural then take a look at my Dr Frankenstein modification.
I don’t honestly care because it’s bloody essential on this bike.
I also added another volume spacer to the rear shock to try and increase mid support. Now running 3 for my 82kg riding weight.
If you thought the original AVS guard was agricultural then take a look at my Dr Frankenstein modification.
I don’t honestly care because it’s bloody essential on this bike.
I couldn’t live with the hideous protection so I simplified and used a piece of 3mm think kydex and then heat gunned into a shape that provides more protection and (with the help of a strap) some extra battery cover security.
Much happier. Easily removed and I was using the additional security of a strap before anyway.
Much happier. Easily removed and I was using the additional security of a strap before anyway.
Oh no, it affects downhill. I had a moderately nasty spill from pedal strike a while back - actually bent the pedal axle. However, this was largely my fault - had been a long afternoon and I lazily did not have my pedals midline when I encountered a tree root section of trail at speed. Also was new on an eMTB at the time and they all have slightly lower BBs for center of gravity design reasons. XLC 152mm cranks and just being more aware of pedal position and no issues since.
Hi guys! Today I picked up my One77 in the cyclamen'n'black color from the shop! It was the only one available in my size and only in a box, so I had to buy it without seeing it in person. To be honest, I wasn’t a big fan of the color based on the pictures, but in real life it looks pretty cool — I’m happy with it.
I have a question though — what did you get in the box with your bikes? My dealer only gave me a generic Cube manual and a box with the charger and battery keys, but no manuals for the Bosch charger or the Bosch system in general. This is my first e-bike with Bosch, so I’m a bit in the dark.
I have a question though — what did you get in the box with your bikes? My dealer only gave me a generic Cube manual and a box with the charger and battery keys, but no manuals for the Bosch charger or the Bosch system in general. This is my first e-bike with Bosch, so I’m a bit in the dark.
GDAS
Active member
mine came with quite a thick Cube manual, entitled Original Operating Instructions Pedelec, in German & English, it has quite a lot of Bosch CX info towards the back. But I also got quite a lot of info from https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/
Last edited:
Monday 14th.
Eyuplad
Member
You don’t really need a manual for the charger, as it’s basically just plug and play.
If you haven’t already downloaded it, then you need the Bosch Flow app. On there you can customise settings and see what’s what on everything motor and system related.
Just to add, it’s 14th for Apple and week later for Android for some unknown reason.
deertrackdoctor
Active member
Worth keeping an eye on this
On Test | The Cube Stereo Hybrid One77 eMTB aims at big lines and rowdy trails On Test | The Cube Stereo Hybrid One77 eMTB aims at big lines and rowdy trails
On Test | The Cube Stereo Hybrid One77 eMTB aims at big lines and rowdy trails On Test | The Cube Stereo Hybrid One77 eMTB aims at big lines and rowdy trails
Hi, I also bought a One77 RACE only in size XL, and dazzle 'n' black color. Due to poor weather, I rode about 300 km in two weeks. Stock bike weighs 26kg with pedals. By replacing almost everything, I got down to 23 kg. I'll make two videos on YouTube with it. First will be a presentation, and a description of pros and cons, and second will be about my upgrades 
Link your channelHi, I also bought a One77 RACE only in size XL, and dazzle 'n' black color. Due to poor weather, I rode about 300 km in two weeks. Stock bike weighs 26kg with pedals. By replacing almost everything, I got down to 23 kg. I'll make two videos on YouTube with it. First will be a presentation, and a description of pros and cons, and second will be about my upgrades
Link your channel
COOL BIKE
Witam na kanale COOL BIKE, w każdy poniedziałek i czwartek będę publikował nowe filmy związane z tematyką rowerową. Będą zawierały prezentacje, recenzje i porady na temat: części, akcesoriów, rowerów i narzędzi. Serdecznie zapraszam do oglądania i komentowania.
www.youtube.com
So much for the update to the gen5 on the 14th. I’ve checked Cubes Socials and oh.. they don’t update anything for years and years… I can see why Cube is such good value. It’s all face value on sale I’m coming to realise.
Eyuplad
Member
Surely the update is nothing to do with Cube, but Bosch themselves?
Currently waiting for the update to drop also….
Similar Threads
-
Cube Stereo Hybrid One77 AT fork/shock setup for pop and grip- Started by Razzy_82
- Replies: 3
-
-
-
Cube Stereo Hybrid ONE77 HPC 2025 — revisión recomendada al sacarla nueva?- Started by Ibiza12
- Replies: 4
-