pierrot364
Member
Perfect thank you I was waiting for that type of guard, what is please the correct reference of it I will buy it immediate? Thank you
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Perfect thank you I was waiting for that type of guard, what is please the correct reference of it I will buy it immediate? Thank you
Nice dude that. What rear fender are you running?One77 arrived, pretty pleased with it so far. It's had a quick run round the trails. Real struggle to get tires on the rims with inserts in but got there eventually. First ride disaster when the mech got into the rear wheel, had to replace with my spare deore one. Pretty weighty but pretty good VFM I reckon.
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Ordered this on the 4th June, delivered to Wales, UK, today on the 7th!It’s ok I found it
Sabot aluminium de protection moteur VTTAE Cube Stéréo Hybrid 2025-2026, ONE22, ONE44 et ONE77
Sabot de protection aluminium pour VTTAE Cube Stéréo Hybrid 2025-2026, ONE22, ONE44 et ONE77 qui permet de mieux protèger les ailettes du moteur.www.avs-racing.com
Thanks, thats a front mudhugger that I had lying around. Cut it down to fit. I was waiting on a rear RRP rear guard arriving (mini with extender) and have fitted that now. It's a bit of a better shape at the back lip.Nice dude that. What rear fender are you running?
Good bit of kit aren’t they? Mines taken a few knocks already that would have obliterated the crappy stock plastic cover.Ordered this on the 4th June, delivered to Wales, UK, today on the 7th!
Lovely bit of kit, fitted like a charm and looks the nuts! Very happy.View attachment 162088
Nice one. I’ve got an RRP rear with extender on its way to me. Does the extender drop down past the stays?Thanks, thats a front mudhugger that I had lying around. Cut it down to fit. I was waiting on a rear RRP rear guard arriving (mini with extender) and have fitted that now. It's a bit of a better shape at the back lip.
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Yeah it will, I cut it slightly shorter so it sits just barely above the height of that rubber pad at the base of the stays.Nice one. I’ve got an RRP rear with extender on its way to me. Does the extender drop down past the stays?
Sweet. Should do a decent job of shielding the lower swing arm pivot from the crud come winter time then.Yeah it will, I cut it slightly shorter so it sits just barely above the height of that rubber pad at the base of the stays.
Agreed. Really nice and I thought £90 delivered for a quality, made in France, product was very reasonable.Good bit of kit aren’t they? Mines taken a few knocks already that would have obliterated the crappy stock plastic cover.
How long are these XLC cranks you bought? Thanks. I'm interested in changing the stock cranks, as the bottom bracket (as many have noted) is damn too low in the slack settingXlc’s were a good find I agree. I also had Miranda cranks but I never installed them because the xlc arrived the same day and were half the price
360km in total so far, no complaints. Some creaky nuts and bolts but that’s what it is with fullsus bikes. Brakes are the next upgrade, I already decided I’ll proceed with Hope V4 and I hope that’s the last upgrade.
But then again, cycling, at least for me is a mixture of riding and tweaking.
152mm.How long are these XLC cranks you bought? Thanks. I'm interested in changing the stock cranks, as the bottom bracket (as many have noted) is damn too low in the slack setting
Can recommend. Cheap but decent - I recently took a hard strike (completely my fault, nothing to do with BB height), came off bike rough, returned to it to find crank fine but pedal axle bent! Tricky ride back but new pedals now and all good again.152mm.
It's too damn low in the steep setting too!!How long are these XLC cranks you bought? Thanks. I'm interested in changing the stock cranks, as the bottom bracket (as many have noted) is damn too low in the slack setting
I don't think there is one.Can someone please tell me where to get the exploded view drawing of the Cube Stereo Hybrid One 44 HPC?
I can't find it in my searches
I have the same problem on my drive side. I used thread lock and carry a hex with me and check it every so often.Anyone know the crank torque setting? My none drive side has come loose![]()
Where did you get the motor bash guard? My plastic one is wrecked.Love this bike! Only original bits are the headset, seat and seat collar!
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Take them off, use a small blue flame candle lighter in the thread of the crank in its hot, shove it on and tighten up to about 30nm. It’s looser than it needs to be but it cools down and then it’s solid. A rubber “persuader” can take it off.I have the same problem on my drive side. I used thread lock and carry a hex with me and check it every soften.
I don’t suffer from “range anxiety” with my bike - I suffer from “crank coming off” anxiety.
Where did you get the motor bash guard? My plastic one is wrecked.
I have a ONE77 in M.
Thanks.
The crank doesn't attach in the way you're thinking.Take them off, use a small blue flame candle lighter in the thread of the crank in its hot, shove it on and tighten up to about 30nm. It’s looser than it needs to be but it cools down and then it’s solid. A rubber “persuader” can take it off.
Thank you so much. Ordered £94.31.Cube Stéréo Hybrid 2025-2026 ONE22, ONE44 and ONE77 E-Bike engine guard
Aluminum protective skid plate for Cube Stéréo Hybrid 2025-2026 One22, ONE44 and ONE77 which allows better protection of the engine fins.www.avs-racing.com
Came in about £90 delivered.
No it attaches just as I expect it to. The heat soaks in to the crank and when you put it on the motor spindle and screw it in it shrinks. 30nm on the BOLT used to tighten the crank on when hot allows it to go deeper in to the spindle (we are talking microns retrospectively) and when it shrinks you get the effect of using a much higher torque without stretching your threads. A rubber mallet is all then is then needed to shock the bolt to slip. This is similar to how you can heat press bearings and bushes.The crank doesn't attach in the way you're thinking.
The Bosch Gen 5 motor uses a standard ISIS bottom bracket spindle. The crank arm slides onto the ISIS splines, which prevents slippage under torque.
The bolt threads into the hollow ISIS spindle, pulling the crank arm tightly onto the splines.
It appears to be a common problem.
I get you.No it attaches just as I expect it to. The heat soaks in to the crank and when you put it on the motor spindle and screw it in it shrinks. 30nm on the BOLT used to tighten the crank on when hot allows it to go deeper in to the spindle (we are talking microns retrospectively) and when it shrinks you get the effect of using a much higher torque without stretching your threads. A rubber mallet is all then is then needed to shock the bolt to slip. This is similar to how you can heat press bearings and bushes.
Ordered a torque wrench and new bolts so will try again.I tightened my new cranks to 40nm weeks ago and they haven't budged
Check the battery compartment is screwed in tight.My cubes rattling really bad over bumps and it’s coming from the motor area. I think the bolts are only torqued to 20ish nm after I loosened them sorting my rear brake. Do you think torquing them to the 40nm sort the rattling out? It’s proper sounding like a gen 4 motor over rough ground