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One77 arrived, pretty pleased with it so far. It's had a quick run round the trails. Real struggle to get tires on the rims with inserts in but got there eventually. First ride disaster when the mech got into the rear wheel, had to replace with my spare deore one. Pretty weighty but pretty good VFM I reckon.
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gt900uk said:
Thanks, thats a front mudhugger that I had lying around. Cut it down to fit. I was waiting on a rear RRP rear guard arriving (mini with extender) and have fitted that now. It's a bit of a better shape at the back lip.
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Nice one. I’ve got an RRP rear with extender on its way to me. Does the extender drop down past the stays?
 
Eyuplad said:
Nice one. I’ve got an RRP rear with extender on its way to me. Does the extender drop down past the stays?
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Yeah it will, I cut it slightly shorter so it sits just barely above the height of that rubber pad at the base of the stays.
 
gt900uk said:
Yeah it will, I cut it slightly shorter so it sits just barely above the height of that rubber pad at the base of the stays.
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Sweet. Should do a decent job of shielding the lower swing arm pivot from the crud come winter time then.
 
Eyuplad said:
Good bit of kit aren’t they? Mines taken a few knocks already that would have obliterated the crappy stock plastic cover.
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Agreed. Really nice and I thought £90 delivered for a quality, made in France, product was very reasonable.
Just fitted so it’ll get a shit kicking next week after my new 34t chainring arrives…
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😁
 
Can someone please tell me where to get the exploded view drawing of the Cube Stereo Hybrid One 44 HPC?

I can't find it in my searches
 
Kepa said:
Xlc’s were a good find I agree. I also had Miranda cranks but I never installed them because the xlc arrived the same day and were half the price 😌

360km in total so far, no complaints. Some creaky nuts and bolts but that’s what it is with fullsus bikes. Brakes are the next upgrade, I already decided I’ll proceed with Hope V4 and I hope that’s the last upgrade.

But then again, cycling, at least for me is a mixture of riding and tweaking.
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How long are these XLC cranks you bought? Thanks. I'm interested in changing the stock cranks, as the bottom bracket (as many have noted) is damn too low in the slack setting
 
Kepa said:
152mm.
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Can recommend. Cheap but decent - I recently took a hard strike (completely my fault, nothing to do with BB height), came off bike rough, returned to it to find crank fine but pedal axle bent! Tricky ride back but new pedals now and all good again.
 
António13_PT said:
Can someone please tell me where to get the exploded view drawing of the Cube Stereo Hybrid One 44 HPC?

I can't find it in my searches
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I don't think there is one.

I've tried looking too. At least the bolt torque settings are scribed on the bolts/caps, that certainly helps.
 
Davvee said:
Anyone know the crank torque setting? My none drive side has come loose 😭
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I have the same problem on my drive side. I used thread lock and carry a hex with me and check it every so often.
I don’t suffer from “range anxiety” with my bike - I suffer from “crank coming off” anxiety.
 
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SIG84 said:
I have the same problem on my drive side. I used thread lock and carry a hex with me and check it every soften.
I don’t suffer from “range anxiety” with my bike - I suffer from “crank coming off” anxiety.
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Take them off, use a small blue flame candle lighter in the thread of the crank in its hot, shove it on and tighten up to about 30nm. It’s looser than it needs to be but it cools down and then it’s solid. A rubber “persuader” can take it off.
 
Andrew8200m said:
Take them off, use a small blue flame candle lighter in the thread of the crank in its hot, shove it on and tighten up to about 30nm. It’s looser than it needs to be but it cools down and then it’s solid. A rubber “persuader” can take it off.
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The crank doesn't attach in the way you're thinking.
The Bosch Gen 5 motor uses a standard ISIS bottom bracket spindle. The crank arm slides onto the ISIS splines, which prevents slippage under torque.
The bolt threads into the hollow ISIS spindle, pulling the crank arm tightly onto the splines.
It appears to be a common problem.
 
SIG84 said:
The crank doesn't attach in the way you're thinking.
The Bosch Gen 5 motor uses a standard ISIS bottom bracket spindle. The crank arm slides onto the ISIS splines, which prevents slippage under torque.
The bolt threads into the hollow ISIS spindle, pulling the crank arm tightly onto the splines.
It appears to be a common problem.
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No it attaches just as I expect it to. The heat soaks in to the crank and when you put it on the motor spindle and screw it in it shrinks. 30nm on the BOLT used to tighten the crank on when hot allows it to go deeper in to the spindle (we are talking microns retrospectively) and when it shrinks you get the effect of using a much higher torque without stretching your threads. A rubber mallet is all then is then needed to shock the bolt to slip. This is similar to how you can heat press bearings and bushes.
 
Andrew8200m said:
No it attaches just as I expect it to. The heat soaks in to the crank and when you put it on the motor spindle and screw it in it shrinks. 30nm on the BOLT used to tighten the crank on when hot allows it to go deeper in to the spindle (we are talking microns retrospectively) and when it shrinks you get the effect of using a much higher torque without stretching your threads. A rubber mallet is all then is then needed to shock the bolt to slip. This is similar to how you can heat press bearings and bushes.
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I get you.
I've ordered some new bolts and a torque wrench.
Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
 
Raptor said:
I tightened my new cranks to 40nm weeks ago and they haven't budged
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Ordered a torque wrench and new bolts so will try again.

Whoever built my bike in the warehouse before sending it f***ed up a few things.

They cross threaded the head tube bolt too. Had to get it drilled out, get a new star nut and a new headset cap.
Then the left crank started creaking and then fell off.

Oh and my motor casing is f***ed too. But have a metal guard on the way.
 
My cubes rattling really bad over bumps and it’s coming from the motor area. I think the bolts are only torqued to 20ish nm after I loosened them sorting my rear brake. Do you think torquing them to the 40nm sort the rattling out? It’s proper sounding like a gen 4 motor over rough ground
 
Davvee said:
My cubes rattling really bad over bumps and it’s coming from the motor area. I think the bolts are only torqued to 20ish nm after I loosened them sorting my rear brake. Do you think torquing them to the 40nm sort the rattling out? It’s proper sounding like a gen 4 motor over rough ground
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Check the battery compartment is screwed in tight.
You have to take the battery lock out to gain access to the hex bolt that holds the battery part in. See if that's loose.
Mine was rattling and when I looked down my battery was hanging out!
 
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