2023 Orbea Wild


Naerz said:
I find that the alloy is a bit too heavy.. with fox38, coil shox, dh casing, you get to 27+kg really easy
Crafty carbon vs orbea carbon, orbea is lighter and geo is more aggressive and seems more playful
For now I’m only doing speculations, and I will need to test ride a lot before doing any choices. I plan to test rides both, to be continued!
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Should have said ~26.5kg but still.. for a bike 160/150 or 170/150 with non removable battery it’s one of the heaviest
 
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How difficult is it working on the bike with the internal headset cable routing? Is raising stem height difficult? Have you had and damage to the cables from chaffing? I really like the clean look, but have read the Orbea system is hard to work on. Thanks in advance.
 
I absolutely hate working on it, but honestly - how often do you have to? I mean I changed my fork after 2 rides and haven't really messed with it since...
 
IMG-20240527-WA0006.jpg
1717849774352.jpg
Adapter 500 Akku 3D Print Weight is now approx. 22kg and the cables for gears and seat post are now also outside 😊 and the Öhlins fork is only 🤩
 
It’s an M20.
Brakes: Hayes Dominion T4
Fork: Zeb Base
Shock: Manitou Mara Pro
Dropper: OneUp V3 210
Wheels: Triad 30mm F / Sector 28mm R
Hubs: DT 240 DEG w/ CX Ray Spokes
Drivetrain: XT shifter & Mech / X01 Cassette & Chain

View attachment IMG_3039.jpeg
 
Looks very neat!
Did you buy the 3D file or do you wanna share or sell it for private use?
I have an M20 as well
Wild.jpg
 
whitedlite said:
It’s an M20.
Brakes: Hayes Dominion T4
Fork: Zeb Base
Shock: Manitou Mara Pro
Dropper: OneUp V3 210
Wheels: Triad 30mm F / Sector 28mm R
Hubs: DT 240 DEG w/ CX Ray Spokes
Drivetrain: XT shifter & Mech / X01 Cassette & Chain

View attachment 144406
Click to expand...
I'd also be interested in buying the parts or files. Looks like the second photo is another custom mount using the water bottle mount? I use a fidlock bottle so need to work sometime out for that but I defo want to do this next time I need to change an outer.

Also need to source a standard headset compression ring to replace the flimsy Orbea one for the internal routing. Then the bike will be perfect!
 
It's infuriating that they went headset routing when full external looks that clean! Hope they back down on the next version.
 
Still considering a Wild. Hoping to get some help with a few questions:

- For those running the Fox X2, does the bottom brace on the frame still allow you to easily make adjustments to HSC, LSC and LSR?

- How difficult is it to set the air pressure on the X2 with that frame brace?

- I’ve heard the Bosch motor won’t pair with a Garmin. I don’t really want to use a Kiox display. Is there another way to determine exact battery percentage? I am guessing maybe your cell phone is the only other way? I sure wish Bosch would work with Garmin.

- last question, what kind of range are you getting? I can get a really good deal on a bike with the 625 wh battery, but a little worried about range. I would probably be riding mostly in sport/EMTB mode with Turbo on some climbs and rarely in Race mode.

I have read the entire thread. A lot of great info here and thanks to all the contributors.
 
Anyone have their Orbea dropper stuck in the down position?
 
Cell4soul said:
Still considering a Wild. Hoping to get some help with a few questions:

- For those running the Fox X2, does the bottom brace on the frame still allow you to easily make adjustments to HSC, LSC and LSR?

- How difficult is it to set the air pressure on the X2 with that frame brace?

- I’ve heard the Bosch motor won’t pair with a Garmin. I don’t really want to use a Kiox display. Is there another way to determine exact battery percentage? I am guessing maybe your cell phone is the only other way? I sure wish Bosch would work with Garmin.

- last question, what kind of range are you getting? I can get a really good deal on a bike with the 625 wh battery, but a little worried about range. I would probably be riding mostly in sport/EMTB mode with Turbo on some climbs and rarely in Race mode.

I have read the entire thread. A lot of great info here and thanks to all the contributors.
Click to expand...

I havo no X2, but a FloatX in my bike, but an X2 in my other bike. I can,t see how to easily adjust the settings.
Personally for my riding, bit of bikepark, mostly trail and not skilled enough for true Enduro (WC) tracks the FloatX works great. The X2 on my Ibis Ripmo analog bike is hopelessly over complex and doesnt ad a lot of extra performance for it.
Maybe that says something about me, but the X2 has imo a small sweet spot and a huge fuuck up range.

Regarding Garmin: my Fenix7 doesn't pair with it, but the led lights are pretty straight forward and accurate.
I only use my phone as back up.

Range: I think that is very depending on how much effort you put in yourself, how much you weight and tireschoice.
I have the 750w battery weight an 98kg and in the Alps I did guided tours of 37km with 1400hm, mostly in the 2 middle modes, and always had a 10-15%left at the end of the day, so kuddo,s to the guide by making the most of everyday :).
Running Conti Cryptotal-DH casing ultrasoft something in the front.
 
kntr said:
Anyone have their Orbea dropper stuck in the down position?
Click to expand...
Yes, had to bump it a few times with the lever depressed.
My post is going in the bin. its come loose, its got stuck and this weekend's troubles were spongeyness. Never had a mechanical post go spongy?
 
Is anyone else riding a Wild with the XX transmission? The bike comes with the plastic SRAM Aero-guard, which I believe is supposed to double as a chain guide. Unfortunately, the Aero-guard is pretty flimsy, and I’ve already managed to break the weak snap-in mechanism it uses to attach to the chainring. That aero-guard is not really designed for any harder riding. Has anyone here used a proper chain guide or the SRAM bashguard to keep the chain in place?

Thanks!
 
hannu said:
Is anyone else riding a Wild with the XX transmission? The bike comes with the plastic SRAM Aero-guard, which I believe is supposed to double as a chain guide. Unfortunately, the Aero-guard is pretty flimsy, and I’ve already managed to break the weak snap-in mechanism it uses to attach to the chainring. That aero-guard is not really designed for any harder riding. Has anyone here used a proper chain guide or the SRAM bashguard to keep the chain in place?

Thanks!
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You got a picture of what you mean by the aero guide? Mine came with a chain device? and that works fine?
 
My M11 came with one too. Was thinking of removing mine as I don’t see what purpose it serves
 
Cell4soul said:
My M11 came with one too. Was thinking of removing mine as I don’t see what purpose it serves
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Found this from the manual:

1723535094709.png

But it's such a stupid piece of plastic. It's the lowest point of the bike, hanging a bit lower than the motor's plastic cover so it's the first part to hit any obstacle, and it can't really take any hits without getting damaged or dislocated. And it of course looks rather cheap as well.
 
hannu said:
Found this from the manual:

View attachment 145221
But it's such a stupid piece of plastic. It's the lowest point of the bike, hanging a bit lower than the motor's plastic cover so it's the first part to hit any obstacle, and it can't really take any hits without getting damaged or dislocated. And it of course looks rather cheap as well.
Click to expand...
Good info, thanks. Not worried about dropping a chain, more worried about bashing mine, so it is coming off the bike.
 
I have searched, but couldn’t find max insertion depth for the Wild seatpost. Anyone have any info? I am looking at running a One Up V3 in 210 mm.
 
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