M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

Freda said:
I have not tried with this spider, but on normal 104bcd crankset a 30T chainring is minimum. It has threads in the chainring instead of using bolt with counterpart, to get it to fit.
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return from somebody who have tried needed.

I find that chain is very close to the speeder, i doubt that it fit with 2 teeth less. but may be with few adaptation ?. the other problem is chain position in regards of swing arms, with the E10 i needed to install protection to avoid that chain eat the swing arm. Most space available on the CEF50
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For those out there enjoying their LCE930's in the wild, what would you think about a 6' 3 1/2" (192CM)/185lb (84kg) /33" inseam rider on a LCE 930 with 29" wheels? I wouldn't mind a slightly longer stem and 175 cranks but am starting to get worried about fit as my 930 has not yet shipped though the m820 is arriving any day now so would need to switch to say a XL CEF50 but really like the LC platform and the company itself.

Have been riding for last 10 years a Trek FX7.2 22.5" hybrid which rides comfortably but certainly would not want anything larger.

Thanks for any advice!
 
PaulH said:
For those out there enjoying their LCE930's in the wild, what would you think about a 6' 3 1/2" (192CM)/185lb (84kg) /33" inseam rider on a LCE 930 with 29" wheels? I wouldn't mind a slightly longer stem and 175 cranks but am starting to get worried about fit as my 930 has not yet shipped though the m820 is arriving any day now so would need to switch to say a XL CEF50 but really like the LC platform and the company itself.

Have been riding for last 10 years a Trek FX7.2 22.5" hybrid which rides comfortably but certainly would not want anything larger.

Thanks for any advice!
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More importantly what kind of riding have you done? MTB has shifted towards Enduro which is riding down. So the geometry has shifted such that the rider sits back to make it more comfortable going down. This makes the top tube longer, that is why they all use short stems.
So if you are a trail rider who climbs as well as goes down you may have to look at the top tube and reach and judge the frame's Head tube height. I am a trail rider and I find I have to get new geo frames that are one down from the largest to get a shorter top tube. THen I have to jack up the handlebars to get enough height.
 
mike_kelly said:
More importantly what kind of riding have you done? MTB has shifted towards Enduro which is riding down. So the geometry has shifted such that the rider sits back to make it more comfortable going down. This makes the top tube longer, that is why they all use short stems.
So if you are a trail rider who climbs as well as goes down you may have to look at the top tube and reach and judge the frame's Head tube height. I am a trail rider and I find I have to get new geo frames that are one down from the largest to get a shorter top tube. THen I have to jack up the handlebars to get enough height.
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I only do light trails (paved due to hybrid bike currently) nothing extreme or off trail so far. I will have a dropper post though I don't know when I would use it. I was hoping with the LCE930 I could begin doing some Fabio Wibmer moves but we'll see :)

I guess you a kindda saying the L 930 will not be something uncomfortable for me except in extreme use cases and even then maybe just more of a preference.

I see from the recent YT video reviewing 8 ebikes (one was the Karbon aka 930) and one of the reviewers is 6'3" he did not complain too much so I'm probably just over thinking this.
 
I think you do fine but just realize you may need to adapt a little, more rise on the handlebars, stem changes, seat forward or back. You made have to select a different frame size than you previously used. You will have to "neutralize" some of the LLS geometry to make it more trail friendly.
 
So I had an issue with the lower shock bolt. After a ride I noticed something was loose and when I tried to tighten it, it came off just by touching it. It had snapped off where the threads start.

IMG_2515 (1).JPG


I contacted Lightcarbon, who were helpful enough and sent me two new bolts only for shipping costs. They say it has been redesigned. I don't know how, it looks the same, but weight is higher. It feels therefore more solid. Lets hope it lasts.
IMG_3365 (1).JPG

IMG_3366 (1).JPG
 
Freda said:
So I had an issue with the lower shock bolt. After a ride I noticed something was loose and when I tried to tighten it, it came off just by touching it. It had snapped off where the threads start.
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Thanks for sharing! You are lucky that it didn't fall out during the ride, that could be scary. I wonder when they redesigned it, when did you order your frame? I am going to remove and weigh mine.
 
sandnap said:
Thanks for sharing! You are lucky that it didn't fall out during the ride, that could be scary. I wonder when they redesigned it, when did you order your frame? I am going to remove and weigh mine.
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Yes I was thinking the same. I don't know how it didn't fall out, because it was not attached to anything, also I didn't notice when it broke.

I ordered in September.
 
I have a bit of a issue with that bolt too. It is a bit too loose in lower bushing, started to make a knocking noise. I'll order two bolts just in case.
 
I also had a problem with the correct width shock eye bushing
I used an over width bushing and machined it to suite the frame.
 
I have been riding my LCE930 for a few weeks now with great pleasure. However, I find the frame has a lot more pedal bob than the LCES0004 I had before with the same Fox DPX2 EVOL Performance damper. Anyone else notice this too?
 
Ha
Freda said:
So I had an issue with the lower shock bolt. After a ride I noticed something was loose and when I tried to tighten it, it came off just by touching it. It had snapped off where the threads start.

View attachment 139465

I contacted Lightcarbon, who were helpful enough and sent me two new bolts only for shipping costs. They say it has been redesigned. I don't know how, it looks the same, but weight is higher. It feels therefore more solid. Lets hope it lasts.
View attachment 139466
View attachment 139467
Click to expand...
D
Freda said:
So I had an issue with the lower shock bolt. After a ride I noticed something was loose and when I tried to tighten it, it came off just by touching it. It had snapped off where the threads start.

View attachment 139465

I contacted Lightcarbon, who were helpful enough and sent me two new bolts only for shipping costs. They say it has been redesigned. I don't know how, it looks the same, but weight is higher. It feels therefore more solid. Lets hope it lasts.
View attachment 139466
View attachment 139467
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem with the CEF50, I got some TI bolts from AliExpress and they've been awesome.
 
raggertje said:
I have been riding my LCE930 for a few weeks now with great pleasure. However, I find the frame has a lot more pedal bob than the LCES0004 I had before with the same Fox DPX2 EVOL Performance damper. Anyone else notice this too?
Click to expand...
I don't have a good climbing mtb to compare it to. My analog bike is an enduro with 160mm rear travel and no lockout. I'll try to pay more attention on my next climb.
 
hello

I have finish my built. 150 front and 150 rear with mullet wheel.

IMG_3300.jpg

IMG_3299.jpg

IMG_3298.jpg


this is 2 youtube videos to setup my suspension.

next step is to change 34T to 32T chainring, 170mm crank to 160mm and 245HMI to use use GO+ to custom the bike.
I use my Besst Tool to decrease 10% of each path before to assembly the bike and my first ride. I don't would like to disassemble my fork, stem...etc to use my Besst tool another time 😁. I think the original setup is better
 
Slaine said:
hello

I have finish my built. 150 front and 150 rear with mullet wheel.

View attachment 139689
View attachment 139690
View attachment 139691

this is 2 youtube videos to setup my suspension.

next step is to change 34T to 32T chainring, 170mm crank to 160mm and 245HMI to use use GO+ to custom the bike.
I use my Besst Tool to decrease 10% of each path before to assembly the bike and my first ride. I don't would like to disassemble my fork, stem...etc to use my Besst tool another time 😁. I think the original setup is better
Click to expand...
To utilize the BESST tool, there's no need for disassembly. It connects between your controller and the controller's wire harness, which is accessible without taking anything apart.
 
Slaine said:
hello

I have finish my built. 150 front and 150 rear with mullet wheel.





this is 2 youtube videos to setup my suspension.

next step is to change 34T to 32T chainring, 170mm crank to 160mm and 245HMI to use use GO+ to custom the bike.
I use my Besst Tool to decrease 10% of each path before to assembly the bike and my first ride. I don't would like to disassemble my fork, stem...etc to use my Besst tool another time 😁. I think the original setup is better
Click to expand...
nice. i haven open a threads on velo vert forum. share your experience on it. i feel alone in france :cry: .
forum.velovert.com

bafang M820

Pour ceux qui comme moi n'utilise jamais la puissance max des full, mais trouve les vrai "light" trop juste. Le M820 fait le job. Pour ...
forum.velovert.com forum.velovert.com
 
clix said:
To utilize the BESST tool, there's no need for disassembly. It connects between your controller and the controller's wire harness, which is accessible without taking anything apart.
Click to expand...
Yes I know but with the DP181 HMI I hide the second cable on down tube and I don't would like to remove the fork because I hate this new cable managment on the head tube
 
patdam said:
nice. i haven open a threads on velo vert forum. share your experience on it. i feel alone in france :cry: .
forum.velovert.com

bafang M820

Pour ceux qui comme moi n'utilise jamais la puissance max des full, mais trouve les vrai "light" trop juste. Le M820 fait le job. Pour ...
forum.velovert.com forum.velovert.com
Click to expand...
I read the post, on I prepare a review to discuss on "velo-vert" ;)
 
Hello everyone. I'm finishing collecting the last parts for the LCE930 project (I'm still waiting for the frame and engine) and at this stage I have two questions:
1. Are the shock mounting screws included with the bicycle frame? (I know I need to buy an M8x22.2mm bushing)
2. I will make the battery pack myself, but I still don't know what battery voltage to choose: 43V or 48V? - the bike will be used in the mountains where the climbs can be significant. What voltage will be healthier for the engine?
 
Radolf said:
Hello everyone. I'm finishing collecting the last parts for the LCE930 project (I'm still waiting for the frame and engine) and at this stage I have two questions:
1. Are the shock mounting screws included with the bicycle frame? (I know I need to buy an M8x22.2mm bushing)
2. I will make the battery pack myself, but I still don't know what battery voltage to choose: 43V or 48V? - the bike will be used in the mountains where the climbs can be significant. What voltage will be healthier for the engine?
Click to expand...
Hi,
yes screws for trunnion side is with the frame, for your battery i'm not an expert I buy Bafang 410Wh but i think it's depend wich type of motor you buy
 
Slaine said:
Hi,
yes screws for trunnion side is with the frame, for your battery i'm not an expert I buy Bafang 410Wh but i think it's depend wich type of motor you buy
Click to expand...
Lower shock mount bolt is also included(I know because I broke mine!🙂) You only need the bushing.
 
Finally. Big battery went into the frame. 12S3P done with LG M58 cells (same as new gen2 Orbea Rise).
External battery size is 65mm x 55mm.
I have measured cells with 500mA discharge from 4,2 to 3,0V, all about 5,33Ah. Discharged fully to 2,5V with 500mA showing 5,81Ah, IMHO pretty good.

Marketing bullshit capacity - 43V*3*5,8Ah = 748Wh
Real life capacity at discharge to 3,0V (@1,5A=ECO mode) - 43V*3*5,3Ah = 680Wh

Bike weight went up a bit but not so bad, with pedals and fenders bike weights bellow 20kG.

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg
 
borysgo2 said:
Real life capacity at discharge to 3,0V (@1,5A=ECO mode) - 43V*3*5,3Ah = 680Wh
Click to expand...

And this is the correct approach to the battery capacity! and to be honest, at the moment I am planning exactly the same 12s3p configuration using exactly these LG cells.

I'm waiting for the frame and I have no way to check, please tell me:
1. the battery cells must be slightly offset from each other to fit into the frame? is the maximum external size of the battery max 65x55mm? (can You send the finished design/drawing of cell arrangement?)
2. Did You weld with 0.2 mm pure nickel plates? or others?
3. How did You attach the package to the frame?
4. Which BMS company did You use? - I'm considering BeMuchSafer or JBD and I think I'd like something with Bluetooth.

If You can, please send more photos (or all) of your battery pack implementation.
 
1.
lce930 battery.png

2. I have soldered 0,2 nikel strips at the + side (easy to solder), the negative side is spot welded.
3. Look carefully at the end of the base of the battery, there is aluminium plate with threaded M5 rivet. Base of the battery (also the top) is made with 1,5mm laminate (no copper). In the bottom section there is 4mm plywood strip sandwich'ed in between two layers of laminate. That kind of composite forms light and very stiff platform for the rest of the battery.
Gap in between the cells is 0,5mm. All cells glued on the CNC'ed template with strong fast bonding adhesive.
4. BMS
bms.jpeg
BMS is JBD, very nice with a lot of features, load detections, safety options, auto balancing cells when charging or static approach, all setted up in the app. BT connectivity is a bit finicky, but IMHO BMS is very nice.
Only extra thing I have done is, I placed ideal diode in series with + charging cable, so when the bike is not charged there is no risk of shorting the pins at the charging port.
 
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