There is a new version of the app available 3.4.0 to allow connection with e7000 and a firmware update
Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
you dont necessarily need to drop the motor - the usual cause is too much cable, and it gets kinked when the post is inserted. You can actually pull/push the cable outer through the frame with a bit of elbow grease.
First step should be to see if you can shorten the cable/housing.
I am not sure if the new dropper lever on 2019 models means if the cable is clamped at the remote or at the post end?
Either way I would cut the two cable ties down by the shock that hold the dropper cable tight to the frame to avoid fouling the shock - make sure you have some cable ties handy to replace these later on.
Now move the post to its minimum insertion and see if the dropper works and check the cable isn't lined near the shock - if so its the cable being bunched up kinked that's at fault.
What I did is cut the cable down so that I actually have to pull the cable back through the frame a bit if I want to fully remove the post, which means the cable is not kinked
I did this by unclamping the dropper lever, then pulling the cable outer back about 10 cm further into the frame - you will likely have to push the cable from he top tube end and pull it from by the shock, then feed It up the seat tube - I then cut it down so that the cable just pokes out of the top tube enough to connect to the post.
The I reversed the process, pushing/pulling the cable back though the frame the same amount I pulled, it, and reconnected the lever etc. The re zip tied the cable to the frame, but not as tight as it is from the factory.
Sorry not the best description but you get the idea!
First step should be to see if you can shorten the cable/housing.
I am not sure if the new dropper lever on 2019 models means if the cable is clamped at the remote or at the post end?
Either way I would cut the two cable ties down by the shock that hold the dropper cable tight to the frame to avoid fouling the shock - make sure you have some cable ties handy to replace these later on.
Now move the post to its minimum insertion and see if the dropper works and check the cable isn't lined near the shock - if so its the cable being bunched up kinked that's at fault.
What I did is cut the cable down so that I actually have to pull the cable back through the frame a bit if I want to fully remove the post, which means the cable is not kinked
I did this by unclamping the dropper lever, then pulling the cable outer back about 10 cm further into the frame - you will likely have to push the cable from he top tube end and pull it from by the shock, then feed It up the seat tube - I then cut it down so that the cable just pokes out of the top tube enough to connect to the post.
The I reversed the process, pushing/pulling the cable back though the frame the same amount I pulled, it, and reconnected the lever etc. The re zip tied the cable to the frame, but not as tight as it is from the factory.
Sorry not the best description but you get the idea!
thanks for the the advice i tried pulling it though with a bit of elbow greece and it has now broken the cable......
not broken in half so should be ok to re wire it. now i need a replacement cable any idea where to start.....
AverageJoeMTB
Member
Finally, this just updated for me. Not impressed with their turn around but they've done it finally at least.
Master Link
Member
Good to know. My Giant Reign would need swingarm bearings twice a year and I was using Enduro bearings and I lived in South Africa where they don’t have much mud.Nope, had to replace DT Swiss front wheel bearings but all the frame bearings are good with no sign of play. And this bike gets caked in mud three or four times a week
Polaris
Active member
Did it feel like your chain was being dragged off the cassette rather than smoothly slipping off? Mine sounds really painful in some gear changes, like it’s being forced off the teeth.
All sorted managed to get to Halfords before it shut and have replaced it. its deff a drop the motor job but really not that difficult. From looking at the original cable it was ran really tight in between the motor and the frame. Works like a dream now thanks
I just got a 2019 XL fresh from the box. Boy does this look nice in this colourway. Cant wait to ride it. Can see some nice refinements over the 2018... better placed dropper, neater speed / mode controller.
How do you find it for size (6’3”)
Not even sat on it yet
but the 2018 was (from what i remember) pretty good for me.
F-GODZ
Member
So it's your fault then!
Wiggle have just cancelled my order for an XL due to insufficient stock!
Thanks a lot Rob
oops!So it's your fault then!
Wiggle have just cancelled my order for an XL due to insufficient stock!
Thanks a lot Rob
Last years Sommett (non VR) in an XL - Comes with the e8000 motor unlike this years standard model which comes with the e7000So it's your fault then!
Wiggle have just cancelled my order for an XL due to insufficient stock!
Thanks a lot Rob
Vitus e sommet | eBay
AverageJoeMTB
Member
So I'm on my third ride now and have noticed a delay on the motor engagement. I think it was there from day 1 but can't be sure. Feels like play in the drive train/delay of the motor engagement and a slight clunk as it engages. no more than a second or a half inch of crank movement before engagement.
With the motor off the drive train is tight as a nut so its defiantly the motor. I have checked Cassette and chainring etc and all is good with those.
Just wondering if its normal or not? Does anyone else get this? I did try and video it last night so will check the footage this morning see if its any good. Unfortunately I've not ridden enough other bikes to know.
With the motor off the drive train is tight as a nut so its defiantly the motor. I have checked Cassette and chainring etc and all is good with those.
Just wondering if its normal or not? Does anyone else get this? I did try and video it last night so will check the footage this morning see if its any good. Unfortunately I've not ridden enough other bikes to know.
I noticed this on mine yesterday and did concern me, was going to post something this morning. be interesting to see if this is normal or a problem fingers crossed not a problem.
half inch of crank movement before assist kicks in sounds perfectly normal from freewheeling to begining pedalling again.
The motor kicks in when it senses cadence/torque and whhel movement.
The lag is a perfectly normal trait of the motor but can be more pronounced depending on speed/cadence and asssist mode.
It's least noticeable in Eco and lower cadences/speeds
If you've ridden a shimano motor for a while you'lll be so used to it that if you ride soemthing else like a Yamaha for instance where the assist comes in straight away it'll feel unweildy compared to the subtleness of the Shimano motor.
That slight lag isn't a dead zone. you are still driving the cassette it's just not assisted until it kicks in.
also bear in mind your Ebike has two freewheels (one at the crank and one at your rear hub. so pick up is slightly slower than just a freehub
Have you updated your firmware?
this trait became smoother with later updates
The motor kicks in when it senses cadence/torque and whhel movement.
The lag is a perfectly normal trait of the motor but can be more pronounced depending on speed/cadence and asssist mode.
It's least noticeable in Eco and lower cadences/speeds
If you've ridden a shimano motor for a while you'lll be so used to it that if you ride soemthing else like a Yamaha for instance where the assist comes in straight away it'll feel unweildy compared to the subtleness of the Shimano motor.
That slight lag isn't a dead zone. you are still driving the cassette it's just not assisted until it kicks in.
also bear in mind your Ebike has two freewheels (one at the crank and one at your rear hub. so pick up is slightly slower than just a freehub
Have you updated your firmware?
this trait became smoother with later updates
AverageJoeMTB
Member
Thanks for answering, Gary.
All firmware up to date (Was finally able to check now the apps been updated).
At least it sounds normal behaviour, certainly isn't impacting the way the bike works. It was very pronounced thud of engagement. Not noisy but the feeling through the crank and my foot.
All firmware up to date (Was finally able to check now the apps been updated).
At least it sounds normal behaviour, certainly isn't impacting the way the bike works. It was very pronounced thud of engagement. Not noisy but the feeling through the crank and my foot.
You get used to it and once learned the trait actually becomes handy. ie. half cranking when you don't want a big kick of power/wheelying etc.
Same with how the motor cuts out. ie. soft pedalling just before a gear shift for a light smooth shift
Same with how the motor cuts out. ie. soft pedalling just before a gear shift for a light smooth shift
AverageJoeMTB
Member
Thanks again. I've already learnt to lift and shift, like changing gear on the motorbike. You just reduce the crank input slightly, certainly makes shifting smooth.
Great analogy - taken a year for someone to put it so succinctly!
On the motor engagement, you can actually learn to use it to your advantage when going down trails.
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
Anyone with a Peartune or other chip done the latest Etube update? I want to do it as have the e7000 controller but noticed a load of stuff about not modifying the software in any way so want to check they haven't found a way to block it. That said would have to be the firmware loaded on the bike that would do that presumably
Interested in that too. (E7000 controller also) also wary of updating firmware.
not sure what you mean here though?
I've always presumed the firmware IS the control S/W that's loaded on the bike
not sure what you mean here though?
I've always presumed the firmware IS the control S/W that's loaded on the bike
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
I'm no expert but I would think that there is the Etube software loaded on to your phone/tablet which uploads parameter changes to the controller on the bike. When disconnected the firmware in the bike controller is the bit monitoring the cadence, torque sensor inputs and controlling assistance output etc so I would think that if a 3rd party chip is blocked that is where it would be done rather than via Etube. I could be completely wrong though.
AverageJoeMTB
Member
I've got the latest 3.3.4 E-Tube and all up to date firmware on my 2019 VR. My peartune is due early next week so I'll let you know if it works ok.
Polaris
Active member
I got the badass box but obviously that’s non intrusive and isn’t affected by software so all good here
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
I've personally had no shifting issues and it's pretty slick for a low end shifter... pretty impressed really as I had low expectations so perhaps yours isn't setup correctly. However I've always been gentle with shifting and was surprised how easy it was to "feel the shift tension" on an Ebike and it's easy to control the strain level as you shift.. not too dissimilar to a normal bike really. So far I've found being caught out in the "wrong" too high a gear is mitigated by the motor somewhat.
Personally intending to change the shifter and get something I can use with a Matchmaker via an adaptor to the brakes to give room for my lights switch and be able to position the brakes as I like.
After my initial Boost happy phase of New to Ebike I've settled down to Eco mainly as for me this gives me more than enough assist but it's nice to have Trail mode in my back pocket. I personally find Boost of limited value, good fun to show off an Ebike to a m8 or you've got lots of battery left near the end but after my initial phase I don't really use it so will probably lower the power a bit to make it more useful to me. IME Trail only feels "weak" when you drop down from boost as there is a large gap in assist between the two.
I do find I don't use the lighter cogs and was considering a bigger front ring but the fear of a technical issue or running out of battery is making me think twice
Seems to be a bit of a consensus that the bike looks much better in the flesh than in the pictures. Overall it's a very stable bike and very forgiving, I've only found I notice the weight negatively when lifting it into the van and on bigger jumps where it feels all of it's 22Kg.... and it shows up your deficiencies in technique as were all not Sam Pilgrim.
I'll admit I was an Ebike sceptic but I can certainly see why so many people love them, I'm having an absolute blast on trails i was getting bored with and I'm really glad I took the plunge and added an Ebike to my stable.
