Strive:ON problems

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Mine seems to be wedged fairly tightly with the Tobias fix but it doesn't make the same click as before when closing the latch.

Have you checked the battery socket in the down tube at the opposite end?

Mine was quite loose so I removed all the bolts, loc-tited and reinstalled, it's been fine since.
 
The battery is solid, no movement, and when the latch is closed it’s solid too. It’s just when you pull the nylon cord the latch opens surprisingly easy, literally the slightest pull on the cord opens the latch fully.

When the skid plate is attached it all feels fine, so I’m probably concerned over nothing. A previous Bosch motored bike I had the battery locked into place with a solid firm click and it was actually quite difficult to then remove again. This one seems the opposite end of the scale, surprisingly easy to remove
 
S1mmo said:
Mine seems to be wedged fairly tightly with the Tobias fix but it doesn't make the same click as before when closing the latch.

Have you checked the battery socket in the down tube at the opposite end?

Mine was quite loose so I removed all the bolts, loc-tited and reinstalled, it's been fine since.
Click to expand...
Wow how would you even access that? You’d need a tool there what 60-80cm long?? Or am I missing something obvious like another access point?
 
jxrx said:
Wow how would you even access that? You’d need a tool there what 60-80cm long?? Or am I missing something obvious like another access point?
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Don't worry, just remove the bracket where the battery latches, and your arm can fit inside de downtube, I've got fairly big arms/hands and no problem, you just need to undo the 2 bolts from the outside and it will come out of the downtoube, just remember to remove the cover for the cables channel, because the cable comes back down to the motor
 
Could you remove the screws one sta time and loctite them, so save the connector detaching completely?
 
There are two more bolts inside the connector that may need loctite and tightening.
The connector / socket is easy to remove and inspect.
The cable covers slide out out freely but be careful not to bend them as they're very thin.
When reinstalling the connector and replacing the cable covers just be careful not to trap or knick any of the cables.
 
S1mmo said:
There are two more bolts inside the connector that may need loctite and tightening.
The connector / socket is easy to remove and inspect.
The cable covers slide out out freely but be careful not to bend them as they're very thin.
When reinstalling the connector and replacing the cable covers just be careful not to trap or knick any of the cables.
Click to expand...
I already have noisy cables - made a thread about it on here with a video but didn't get any answers. Do yours also make a noise when you turn the handlebars? Mine move around in the downtube and make a noise. A bike.mechanic noticed it when I took my bike in to have a piece of PPF fitted.

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RJUK said:
I already have noisy cables - made a thread about it on here with a video but didn't get any answers. Do yours also make a noise when you turn the handlebars? Mine move around in the downtube and make a noise. A bike.mechanic noticed it when I took my bike in to have a piece of PPF fitted.

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Click to expand...
Mine don't make that noise.

Isn't that just the braided cable sheathing catching on the cable tray lid?

Have you tried sliding the lid back a bit to see if that makes a difference?
 
S1mmo said:
Mine don't make that noise.

Isn't that just the braided cable sheathing catching on the cable tray lid?

Have you tried sliding the lid back a bit to see if that makes a difference?
Click to expand...
It seems to be the cables moving side to side in the downtube as the bars are turned. And yes, I think it's that weird sheathing making the noise. Not really sure what to do about it.
 
S1mmo said:
If you go back to post #140 @eddie89 explains how to do it.

It's easy enough to do and worth trying.
Click to expand...
Yikes I did go back and look at it and I'm concerned I'd screw something up or trash a cable so might not do this right now.
Can you see if the bolts are loose without removing everything first?
 
I received the temporary solutions from canyon. It is 100% what I did. So I'm happy.
Screenshot_20231110_192054_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20231110_191929_Gallery.jpg
 
:ROFLMAO: iv heard folding a durex in half is more robust than canyons after 8 mint...
 
Mario Antony said:
That is the latch, the original from Bosch, and what comes originaly in the Strive :ON.

Canyon hasn't developed anything...

Repeating:
It's Bosch part, EQUAL to the original part.

In conclusion:
If you don't use a zipmod, it will be a mater of time, to replace the part, AGAIN.
Click to expand...
i disagree, it Looks like they have fixed a black spacer into it. But i do agree he should still strap it up with cable ties
 
Mario Antony said:
Had to see it on the PC to check what you're said.

If this is actually a Canyon's solution, then I drop. all my hopes on actually having the problem solved.

@jonas, sorry for my post, but this part you received, with the plastic bit, came from Canyon, meaning official Canyon?
Because there is a guy, that has all Canyon images in FB, and is selling "Canyon's solution"...

Please take photos from the underside, to show the added part, since it looks like a bit of plastic, and I want to ask my contact at Canyon about it

Thanks
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no problem mario.. aslong as you KNOW what your speaking about :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
I'm hoping this is a temporary solution - that's what the guy who posted the photos of it said.

What sort of thickness is the spacer? I may try to find something to wedge in there rather than pay for the Facebook mod# which i assume does the exact same thing.
 
Hi, I'm seriously thinking about buying a Strive ON after a Rise;
given that I invite all those affected by the problem to watch the Cascade Components spoiler on their latest ig story, if I saw correctly they have fixed the problem ;)

However, I believe that a good portion of users have no interest in often removing the battery to recharge or switch it; for example, if I purchase it I will do so with the 625 battery, but with an eye on the 500 for lunch or sunset rides. But I will (almost) never take it off the bike.

So I really think I will make a modification to move the connector lower like Orbea Wild, creating a custom-made elongated bracket in the upper part of the tube, to be fixed in place of the current one.
This will lower the suspended masses downwards to the advantage of driving, will remove at least 100/200 grams of useless plastic and with the battery pressing on the connector the system will be "safer".
I will also be able to recover the spacer mounted on the 625 and use it in case of 500 (+/- 1 mm), with another weight and ride benefit.

The entire process is perfectly reversible in the event of sale or shipment of the bike to Canyon for repairs.

If I get the Strive I will evaluate the Orbea connectors / brackets but also those of the Neuron ON and if everything goes well I will not fail to post the modification here.

I attach the fixing and connection diagram of the Orbea Wild

p.s. as you can see Orbea indicates the blue Loctite threadlocker for the fixing screws of the upper and lower bracket



1699660321552.png
 
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This ?
diablo said:
Hi, I'm seriously thinking about buying a Strive ON after a Rise;
given that I invite all those affected by the problem to watch the Cascade Components spoiler on their latest ig story, if I saw correctly they have fixed the problem ;)

watch the Cascade Components spoiler on their latest ig story
Click to expand...

This ?

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RJUK said:
Out of interest, do you have any pics and what does the "fix" appear to achieve? Does it just better spread the weight of the battery across the latch or something?
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I don’t have any pictures but can take some later (currently the bike is covered in Lake District muck). The part makes the latch clip in more securely as it takes up the slack and movement in the latch once it’s clipped shut. It also then and most importantly spreads the weight across the sides. I can certainly see what it does to help. I’ll get some piccies up later
 
RJUK said:
I'm hoping this is a temporary solution - that's what the guy who posted the photos of it said.

What sort of thickness is the spacer? I may try to find something to wedge in there rather than pay for the Facebook mod# which i assume does the exact same thing.
Click to expand...
It is indeed a temporary solution from canyon. It is similar to what many people have done, including myself. My temporary solution worked well. It takes away the weight of the battery from the small clips which brake. I swapped the latch . Feels solid. Canyon said the final solution will take longer, which makes sense the need to order molds and test thoroughly,...

I'm still really happy with my bike. It rides amazing. I would advise it, regardless of this issue.
 
Mario Antony said:
The idea is good, you would need to swap cables, but it's a solution, if (like you said), won"t be removing the battery.

And yes, battery would be lower placed lowering cg of the bike.

But I would prefer the Cascade solution.
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I don't have the bike in front of me hehe but it should be enough to remove the cable track plate and then bring the connector to the bottom.

Another solution I'm thinking of for the 625/500 configuration, more plug & play, is to leave the connector at the top as stock but lengthen the aluminum plate to which it is fixed (shown in post no. 140) by a "gap " equal to the thickness of the original spacer mounted on the 625 battery (to be removed and kept for the 500 battery); in this case a little less weight saving but lowered center of gravity and improved handling like previous trick.
 
Mario Antony said:
It's not a matter of agreeing, or disagreeing.

IF you KNOW what you are speaking about, you would know, that it's a rubber to isolate the end of the battery.

Took some pictures of the "rubber", and assembled to the latch.


This "RUBBER", IS assembled on the Canyon Strive :ON, and is NOT an aftermarket or solution.
If, your Canyon doesn't have, then it's missing.
The rubber WILL NOT solve the problem.

View attachment 128669 View attachment 128670 View attachment 128671
Click to expand...
My new one (September) come with this lack and has broken too.
 
el.guillyt said:
Glad your service support works properly, I've sent a service request almost 2 weeks ago, still nothing back from canyon, I did get a feedback request survey email for such service ticket, of course I've valued as 0 stars....I'm never buying a canyon again
Click to expand...
Hola, yo soy de Valencia también. Y tras sufrir la desconexión contacté con canyon y me enviaron a The bike run en La Avenida de Aragon. Ya era hora que tuviéramos un servicio autorizado de Canyon en nuestra ciudad. De todos modos no dieron con el problema, he tenido que referirles a este foro y mostrarles la pestañas rotas. La bici la he recogido tras una actualización del firmware porque han pedido la pieza. En cuanto llegue la sustituyo y pongo el apaño de las bridas porque parece que va para largo la solución oficial. De todos modos la pieza de aluminio ultima de cascade parece buena opción.
 
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