M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

haydz26 said:
what has everyone ended up with in terms of steerer tube length on the forks? im piecing together all my bits but looking at used forks but wanting to know roughly how much steerer length ill be needing. cheers
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Sorry I forgot to measure, I think mine was 180mm and it’s ok! I even have a spacer, I need to double check

Just checked the specs and the head tube lenght for size L is 120mm, check your wanted stem and see the total
 
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haydz26 said:
what has everyone ended up with in terms of steerer tube length on the forks? im piecing together all my bits but looking at used forks but wanting to know roughly how much steerer length ill be needing. cheers
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Different frame size have different head tube length. Mine on size M need 18,5cm steertube length with Renthal stem.
 
I spoke to Anna Shen from Fieldebikes Co., Ltd. and they do have stock of the main cable for the M820, it was $18 for the cable and $20 shipping and some tax on top. I asked her if she could confirm a picture and she sent this one. I asked if she had additional stock and they do, so if anyone is looking for one they have them. Apparently, there is 5 more days of national holiday and she estimated 8 days ship time to the USA. This maybe useful for @brbr @kaylee.s @Utility or anyone else looking to get one in a quicker time period.

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TobyB said:
I spoke to Anna Shen from Fieldebikes Co., Ltd. and they do have stock of the main cable for the M820, it was $18 for the cable and $20 shipping and some tax on top. I asked her if she could confirm a picture and she sent this one. I asked if she had additional stock and they do, so if anyone is looking for one they have them. Apparently, there is 5 more days of national holiday and she estimated 8 days ship time to the USA. This maybe useful for @brbr @kaylee.s @Utility or anyone else looking to get one in a quicker time period.

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I sent that picture to them when requesting a cable. (that picture came from Jim at lightcarbon).
 
Fingers crossed they checked and we are getting the correct ones. The company I purchased my units from unfortunately don't seem to have stock and a back up won't hurt to have when it does come. I figured this should be 15 days ish vs 40 days, so if I'm able to get out 3 weeks or so sooner I'll be happy with that!
I picked up mine and my wife's frames yesterday! They look great! I'll post some pictures when I start the build.
 
Does anyone know how to pair a DP E181.CAN display using the Bafang app GO+. My app sees the device but won’t pair.

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I just received these photos from the other company, I think the same as yours @kaylee.s ( I bought the cables separately as they said they had stock) I just wanted to double check these are the correct ones, there are two cables in the picture. Thanks!

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brbr said:
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I still need to upgrade the fork (I almost did it yesterday for a 170 Lyrik at 230€ but I have a house to build 😂)
For now it’s around 19.9kg with full btf014 battery
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your are not satisfied by the pike ? i find it working well and it's more light than others . what is the size of your tires / travel of your suspension and the BB height (crank shaft axis to ground)
 
patdam said:
your are not satisfied by the pike ? i find it working well and it's more light than others . what is the size of your tires / travel of your suspension and the BB height (crank shaft axis to ground)
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It’s a revelation with pike stickers 🙄
It’s a 160mm front and I have a 185x55 in the back.
I have 2.6 tire in front and 2.4 in the back, these tires are great, but the longevity seems bad…
I did not mesure the bb height yet
 
temon10 said:
Little bit heavy because of coil shock?
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Yeah the shock is heavy! Also, I have the original steel spider that I need to replace and my tires are quite heavy as well. The only light thing here is the fork that I want to replace :D
 
Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light 🤔. I'm not sure if the magnet on the rear wheel is connecting as the motor isn't kicking in when I turn the cranks and spin the wheel. I Don't want to take toe motor off to see if everything is still connected as it was some job to get it on.
Can't wait to finish this 🤞

IMG_20231008_184854.jpg IMG_20231008_184831.jpg IMG_20231008_184801.jpg IMG_20231008_184854.jpg IMG_20231008_184831.jpg IMG_20231008_184801.jpg
 
plough said:
Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light 🤔. I'm not sure if the magnet on the rear wheel is connecting as the motor isn't kicking in when I turn the cranks and spin the wheel. I Don't want to take toe motor off to see if everything is still connected as it was some job to get it on.
Can't wait to finish this 🤞

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I believe that extra one is for the Beest tool ( to update software and tune the motor) I'm not sure where it's supposed to sit though, where does everyone else have it located? I'm waiting on this cable then I'll start my build.
 
i don't know for the m820, but if it's alike other M series, it's normal if the motor don't turn when you turn crank arms with wheels in air. It's need effort on torque sensor and you can provide that only with resist with wheel on ground. Check if speed is diplayed on HMI when you turn cranks to control if speed sensor working correctely
 
plough said:
Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light 🤔. I'm not sure if the magnet on the rear wheel is connecting as the motor isn't kicking in when I turn the cranks and spin the wheel. I Don't want to take toe motor off to see if everything is still connected as it was some job to get it on.
Can't wait to finish this 🤞

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Do you have a pic of your cable before connecting it? Or do you remember all the plugs? It should be connected to battery, motor and display. The light cables are just simple cables with no connector.
And also, speed sensor should ve connected directly to the motor
 
patdam said:
i don't know for the m820, but if it's alike other M series, it's normal if the motor don't turn when you turn crank arms with wheels in air. It's need effort on torque sensor and you can provide that only with resist with wheel on ground. Check if speed is diplayed on HMI when you turn cranks to control if speed sensor working correctely
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Thanks for that 👍, hopefully it's like the other M series. Will give it a check tomorrow
 
If You are brave enough to drill and mill slotted holes into Your frame, I would recommend rubber grommets like this and skip the routing through the headset…

IMG_1271.jpeg
 
thaeber
I can mill no problem, have cnc and can make a nice template to copy the hole. Just have to look for the gromets. THX
 
borysgo2 said:
thaeber
I can mill no problem, have cnc and can make a nice template to copy the hole. Just have to look for the gromets. THX
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I'd be cautious to drill any holes as it could structurally effect your frame especially in that headtube junction area. I work with composites a little and I would imagine there is not the necessary excess in material or strength to be able to start cutting holes without consequences. I did however find a solution that might seem good, I haven't started my build yet but I'm going to mount the rear brake with these adhesive cable guide mounts and run that one on the outside, so ease of maintenance. I'll attempt to run the other through the headset. I guess if you did that with wireless shifting and dropper it would be even fewer cables.

cable guide.jpg
 
TobyB said:
I'd be cautious to drill any holes as it could structurally effect your frame especially in that headtube junction area. I work with composites a little and I would imagine there is not the necessary excess in material or strength to be able to start cutting holes without consequences. I did however find a solution that might seem good, I haven't started my build yet but I'm going to mount the rear brake with these adhesive cable guide mounts and run that one on the outside, so ease of maintenance. I'll attempt to run the other through the headset. I guess if you did that with wireless shifting and dropper it would be even fewer cables.

View attachment 126435
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What makes me quite optimistic here is the fact that in the CEF50 tread You can see the frame is also optional available with exactly that slotted holes and grommets. I don’t think they reinforce the frame to machine the additional holes.
 
I unfortunately overtightened the charging connector on my build and it started cracking. Does anybody know, if bafang sell it separately?
 
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