Cannondale Moterra 1,2,3 and SE

Nothing left to upgrade on my mottera Nero 3 now
This was my first MTB so i wasnt 100% on what i was buying at the time .
I have since spent a fortune on upgrades lol .
My friends have been in to MTB for years and taken me on some sketchy rides , downhill was not what i had in mind when i brought this bike but i now have the bug .
Bike park wales , HOD and Jacobs ladder in the first 6 months of riding , Tarland and Laggan in 2 weeks time , bike park wales and HOD at the end of the month.
I have fallen off a lot and ended up in AnE last month with a suspected broken neck lol , but im still made for it .
ive also lost 2 stone on this cheating Ebike HA .
This bike give me the confidence to try any trails

Upgrades are

2023 Zeb ultimate 170mm
2023 super deluxe ultimate 230x60. I have removed the 5mm stroke spacer and installed a 2.5mm one from the shock so it's now 230x62.5 giving 165mm actual travel at the rear.
Magura mt7 pro with MDR-P 220 rotors front and rear
SRAM GX eagle AXS
`Rockshox AXS reverb dropper
Mavic E deemax wheels, Maxxis Assegai DD maxgrip rear,Maxxis Assegai exo plus maxgrip front ,i run 28 psi rear and 26 front .
780mm carbon bars and 35mm stem .
Burgtech E bike steel chainring and KMC E12 chain
Fizik Aidon x1 saddle
 
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Pazman said:
2023 super deluxe ultimate 230x60. I have removed the 5mm stroke spacer from the shock so it's now 230x65 giving 170mm actual travel at the rear.
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Just curious... My moterra neo 2 came standard with 160mm rear travel and a 230x65 shock. How did you get 170mm using the same shock size? I thought moterra neo's have the same geometry.
 
rideronthestorm said:
Just curious... My moterra neo 2 came standard with 160mm rear travel and a 230x65 shock. How did you get 170mm using the same shock size? I thought moterra neo's have the same geometry.
Click to expand...
I removed the 5mm stroke spacer from inside the shock.
When i accually measered travel i was getting closer to 180. So I have fitted a 2.5mm strock spacer backing in, giving 165mm
 
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Ha I got the Carbon 1 and I still see lots to upgrade!
Cassette, chainring, cranks, levers, hubs/wheels... and on it goes.
I do like the feel of the Lyrik but might upgrade to ultimate. I think I just need the Rc3 cartridge but may be wrong.
 
So had my first proper ride yesterday after Changing to the 36 front chain ring.

I found that it really makes a difference and did not have to use the smallest gear on the cassette as much and using the miiddle of cassette still so less strain on the chain which is a good thing.
if you need to change front chain ring I would recommend going up to a 36 tooth one it is very tight fit but no problems.

IMG_8866.jpeg
 
My Carbon 1.
Diety, 35mm bars, grips and Deftrap pedals, RC 2.1 Cartridge upgrade.
Love it.
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Anyone pull the motor to check the torque tightness on the mounting plate bolts ?
 
DockingPilot said:
Any tips ?
Was it difficult?
Do the crank arms and chain ring have to come off ?
I have a gen 4 motor
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Not really. Just unplug all the wires and keep track of what ports they were plugged into. You can keep the cranks and chainring on. You will need a T25 Torx Plus Security bit for the mounting plate bolts. It’s really not bad to remove. I have the same bike and mine were loose and putting the motor back in was kind of a PITA to get all the bolts to line up. Make sure to torque them to spec and use locktite.
 
kbass24emtp said:
Not really. Just unplug all the wires and keep track of what ports they were plugged into. You can keep the cranks and chainring on. You will need a T25 Torx Plus Security bit for the mounting plate bolts. It’s really not bad to remove. I have the same bike and mine were loose and putting the motor back in was kind of a PITA to get all the bolts to line up. Make sure to torque them to spec and use locktite.
Click to expand...
Yes I agree. I have just had to do mine again after about a year of solid ridn one came loose again. I find it easiest to do with the bike upside down. Take the battery out first though
 
How do these electrical connections disconnect?
Do you just pull straight out ?
IMG_3191.jpeg
 
kbass24emtp said:
No. They are sealed
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Ok. Thanks. I appreciate you bearing with my questions as I do it for the first time.
Odd, these are regular T-30 and on the surface seem tight.
Ill back them out individually and apply red locktite and torque to 9.5 nm.
And you know offhand the torque spec on the larger T-40 plus frame mounting bolts ?
IMG_3205.jpeg
IMG_3204.jpeg
 
Well like you probably already know but bears mentioning, unbelievably Bosch has no thread locker on the plate to motor mount bolts. At least, unlike the rest, there is no residue at all. Completely dry, clean, fairly light torqued bolts.
Im scratching my head.
 
Wrapping this up today. I had my sons wedding this week so it delayed me.
Fairly easy job.
Just amazes me that Bosch doesn’t red locktite those plate bolts.
IMG_3355.jpeg

IMG_3356.jpeg

Shown above the lack of thread locker in any significant way if at all.
 
kbass24emtp said:
No problem, glad I could help. Make sure to check your rear triangle bolts occasionally. Also love that color of your bike.
Click to expand...
Good thing you mentioned that.
Right side, rear triangle bolt hanging on by about 4 threads.
Thanks again
 
Possibly been covered I'm looking at putting a new shock on my moterra bit not 100% what would fit.
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