Winryn
Active member
Yes raceface https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/race-face-crank-boots-pair
Quite a good fit. Could be a little more snug but look neat and protect them
2024 Strive:ON
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Quite a good fit. Could be a little more snug but look neat and protect them
Hey guys,
first I wanna thank each one of you for your feedback on Strive:ON, I really enyoyed those 28 pages of discussion.
Let me introduce myself. I'm Luka, 25 years old, from Slovenia. After racing motocross and enduro for quite few years, I sold my KTM EXC-F 250 6days 2020 and bought myself Santa Cruz Megatower. After a year and a half, I became a daddy
Currently, I'm happy on my Kenevo SL. But since we bought my wife a Turbo Levo, I wanna have something with little more power, so Strive:ON really cought my eye. Did anybody tested bought? I really like geometry of my Kenevo SL S5, long wheelbase, slack HTA, such a mini DH feeling bike.
I'm currently torn between Turbo Levo 2023 and Strive ON, but I tend to Strive:ON.
Did Canyon solve problems with battery contact?
Did anybody tried Kenevo SL, Turbo Levo and Canyon strive on?
@Rob Rides EMTB you've ridden all three, how do they compare (on the downhill)
Regards, Luka
first I wanna thank each one of you for your feedback on Strive:ON, I really enyoyed those 28 pages of discussion.
Let me introduce myself. I'm Luka, 25 years old, from Slovenia. After racing motocross and enduro for quite few years, I sold my KTM EXC-F 250 6days 2020 and bought myself Santa Cruz Megatower. After a year and a half, I became a daddy
Currently, I'm happy on my Kenevo SL. But since we bought my wife a Turbo Levo, I wanna have something with little more power, so Strive:ON really cought my eye. Did anybody tested bought? I really like geometry of my Kenevo SL S5, long wheelbase, slack HTA, such a mini DH feeling bike.
I'm currently torn between Turbo Levo 2023 and Strive ON, but I tend to Strive:ON.
Did Canyon solve problems with battery contact?
Did anybody tried Kenevo SL, Turbo Levo and Canyon strive on?
@Rob Rides EMTB you've ridden all three, how do they compare (on the downhill)
Regards, Luka
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Winryn
Active member
Put the hope 155mm cranks on last night. Feel lovely and amazingly that 10mm can be felt when pedalling. Will report back whether it helps with pedal strikes
When you say it can be felt, in what way? I understand you should get fewer rock strikes, but does it feel different pedalling and balancing?
Winryn
Active member
Feels like I can spin my legs faster and with less effort. It’s very noticeable I’m not stretching my legs as far. May change if I move my saddle up which now feels a tad low. But smaller spins are very noticeable. Probably be a loss of power on an analogue bike but great to me on an ebike
hubertsk
Member
tatane
Member
Happy to report the YT Thirstmaster 5000 and it's whopping 835ml fits quite snuggly in a size L Strive:ON 
(just needed to mount the Fidlock attachment upside down and revert it on the bottle as well)
(just needed to mount the Fidlock attachment upside down and revert it on the bottle as well)
hubertsk
Member
I just changed my cranks to 160mm, and I can't wait to test them out.
I hope I'll have at least half as good experience as @Winryn
Installed RaceFace Aeffect R's (on the picture, the left crank is already wrapped for protection)
160mm cranks are great, in my case, that 5mm shorter crank made a huge difference when it comes to pedal strikes. I can imagine that a 155-mm crank must be perfect. After change, I don't feel like I'm making less power or something
Highly recommended upgrade
Winryn
Active member
I think that will come but not until the spectral has a full redesign which is a few years away yet
CrispyDesigns
Active member
I got to see my friends Strive:On today in the carbon. Great looking bike and the position feels great. Very lucky to have had the opportunity to sit on a bike that is an online only purchase. The Large felt perfect. It’s given me the confidence that the Large is the right size for me
CaptainPuke
Member
Got the Canyon frame bag today. Frame size large, touches the shock unfortunately but will get some spare invisiframe wrap on the shock rub points and live with it.
Managed to cram in there; Lezyne multi chain pliers (MULTI CHAIN PLIERS) with two pairs of split links, two slim tyre levers, a Park tool tyre boot, a co2 canister (with some gorilla tape and some electrical tape wrapped on), a little inflator head, a dynamic plug pro tool, a Park IB-2 mini tool and... a 29'er Tubolito spare tube! Pretty happy with that as a kit to live permanently on the bike, will just add a pump on bottle cage and that'll do me for bike park action!
View attachment IMG_4091.jpeg
View attachment IMG_4090.jpeg
View attachment IMG_4089.jpeg
Managed to cram in there; Lezyne multi chain pliers (MULTI CHAIN PLIERS) with two pairs of split links, two slim tyre levers, a Park tool tyre boot, a co2 canister (with some gorilla tape and some electrical tape wrapped on), a little inflator head, a dynamic plug pro tool, a Park IB-2 mini tool and... a 29'er Tubolito spare tube! Pretty happy with that as a kit to live permanently on the bike, will just add a pump on bottle cage and that'll do me for bike park action!
View attachment IMG_4091.jpeg
View attachment IMG_4090.jpeg
View attachment IMG_4089.jpeg
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Is there no way to adjust the bag forwards more into the frame cavity and away from the shock? Looks like it would nudge forward?
Anyone with the size M Strive ON that could be so kind and take a measurement for me?
Would be much appreciated!
Distance from center of the seat rail to center of the pedal axel (or center of bottom bracket), with the dropper extended and the post in the bottom of the seat tube.
Not sure if the numbers given in the components geometry table is including the stack height or not.
Would be much appreciated!
Distance from center of the seat rail to center of the pedal axel (or center of bottom bracket), with the dropper extended and the post in the bottom of the seat tube.
Not sure if the numbers given in the components geometry table is including the stack height or not.
CaptainPuke
Member
Narp - the bracket is as far forwards as it can go and you can’t flip it round as there’s a tab on the bag that fits over a tab on one end of the bracket - fitting it the other way round would only make the situation worse. This is as good as it gets;
Could you maybe notch out or re-drill the fixing hole on the bracket to place it further forward?
CaptainPuke
Member
I'd say not. It's not designed for this bike let's be honest; it's just a generic frame bag. I have to say, £35 for this (plus shipping £10) and it's doesn't even have any canyon branding... I can't help wonder if there's better/cheaper generic options out there. Anyway I'll get rub tape on the shock and carry on
- Thread starter
- #829
These are decent (not tried on the Strive yet but on a few other bikes)
peatys.co.uk
Peaty's HoldFast Trail Tool Wrap
Peaty's HoldFast Tool Wrap is designed to flexibly carry all your trail essentials whilst keeping them clean, and giving fast access in trailside emergencies.
peatys.co.uk
CaptainPuke
Member
Yeah kinda wish I’d gone for this now!These are decent (not tried on the Strive yet but on a few other bikes)
Peaty's HoldFast Trail Tool Wrap
Peaty's HoldFast Tool Wrap is designed to flexibly carry all your trail essentials whilst keeping them clean, and giving fast access in trailside emergencies.
Anyone want to buy a canyon bag? Almost new…
CaptainPuke
Member
Jesus man, how many bikes have you got?! I thought I was bad…
Ha ha,it looks worse/better than it is,although that is about £32k worth in that picture.
The Strive & the Gold Bronson are mine,& the grey Bronson is my wife's,plus I have donated my Orbea rise to her after the Strive arrived,so technically 2 each,plus she has a road bike
She was adamant she didn't like 29ers & wasn't fussed about getting an emtb,one ride on the Rise changed her mind completely, she absolutely loves it & now prefers 29 inch wheels over her 27.5 Bronson.
Singletrack seem to like the CFR. 
singletrackworld.com
Canyon Strive:ON CFR review
The Canyon Strive:ON is a very modern e-bike. You can tell this by its downtube alone. It is flipping massive. Eye-catching bulging belly.
singletrackworld.com
Mars2
Active member
So I'm not totally crazy with all my post regarding the bike using a lot of travel! I end up like this guy with lot of air in rear shock and about 8 Psi less than Fox recommend in the fork. I'm at 185 Psi rear and 81 psi front for 75 Kg on CFR
At least one guy that got same feeling as me, From review of Singletrack:
"On to the bike itself… the Canyon Strive:ON CFR is undoubtedly a really good e-bike. But it did take me quite a while to get it set up to handle to my liking. To cut a long, shock-pumping story short, the front suspension and the rear suspension felt very different to each other for quite a while. I kept letting air out of the fork. And putting more in the shock.
In the end I ended up running sub-25% sag at the back and running less PSI in the fork than Fox recommends for my weight. This is not a complaint or criticism as such. It’s more something to bear in mind if you’re setting up a Strive:ON for yourself.
At least one guy that got same feeling as me, From review of Singletrack:
"On to the bike itself… the Canyon Strive:ON CFR is undoubtedly a really good e-bike. But it did take me quite a while to get it set up to handle to my liking. To cut a long, shock-pumping story short, the front suspension and the rear suspension felt very different to each other for quite a while. I kept letting air out of the fork. And putting more in the shock.
In the end I ended up running sub-25% sag at the back and running less PSI in the fork than Fox recommends for my weight. This is not a complaint or criticism as such. It’s more something to bear in mind if you’re setting up a Strive:ON for yourself.
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I'm coming from a slightly different point of view as mine has a zeb up front & rockshox at the back,but I've found very little issues with my set up,it's certainly a very plush ride,way more planted & forgiving than either the Rise or Bronson.
I'm running 30% in the shock most rides,I'm 80kgs with kit on,I do use all the travel on every ride,but it never bottoms out that I can feel.
I've got mostly recommended settings for both ends,except I've sloed the rebound down 1 click on the shock & 2 on the fork,& for more grip with these Pirelli tyres I'm running a few Psi less than I started with,definitely up front as I was a bit sketchy over the dreaded wet roots.
Mario Antony
Active member
Personally I don't set suspension by a "cheap" shock pump (a little better than Canyon's), since I don't rely on the gauge (not digital).
I prefer to use physical markers (zipties), and set according to feeling and maintaining geometry on a big slope.
For example, fork has ± 15psi more (according to my fabulous shock pump) than recommended by Fox. It feels so much better while descending, but it's a stiff fork by other riders "standard".
Basically suspension needs to be adjusted in 2 ways:
#1 Sag - taking into consideration rider weight, maintaining frame geometry, sustain a dynamic balance.
#2 - suspension work: rebound and compression and basically how suspension work best at the desire speed.
[[NOTE]: a tuned suspension will work best at an interval speed.
Knobs have limit range of adjustability, and if you're close to the standard limit, a revalve should be considered for best results.]]
Fork setting, I normally try to figure out the best pressure, checking sag in a slope and in "attack" position (standing and over the bars), so that the fork rides high in step descents, helping maintaining that wonderful HA.
Besides "feeling", another way to set suspension (rebound/compression), is by filming the suspension usage, preferably using high fps setting, to check in slow motion.
If fideling with the knobs is not your thing, write down your "standard" settings and do some runs on both extremes (fully open and fully closed), to feel the diference. Then move between the middle and fully open & middle to fully close.
You shouldn't bottom out, unless you drop or jump high (to flat!), and suspension should work mid stroke, returning to this position as soon as it absorve some bumps.
Just remember: plush... is not fast!
Side note:
One thing most people neglet is tire pressure, being the only part in contact with the ground (most of the time at least...).
Personally I set tire pressures using digital gauge (always the same!).
Also, has baseline rear tire pressure is ±10% more than front tire pressure.
A baseline os set for dry conditions and usual trail ground and speed and work from there.
When changing (always by feeling, but if you're a KOM/QOM chaser, you should have a clock!) I set front tire and adjust rear using the ±10%.
When I reach a good set upfront, if I have the time, and patience I fine tune the rear pressure.
I prefer to use physical markers (zipties), and set according to feeling and maintaining geometry on a big slope.
For example, fork has ± 15psi more (according to my fabulous shock pump) than recommended by Fox. It feels so much better while descending, but it's a stiff fork by other riders "standard".
Basically suspension needs to be adjusted in 2 ways:
#1 Sag - taking into consideration rider weight, maintaining frame geometry, sustain a dynamic balance.
#2 - suspension work: rebound and compression and basically how suspension work best at the desire speed.
[[NOTE]: a tuned suspension will work best at an interval speed.
Knobs have limit range of adjustability, and if you're close to the standard limit, a revalve should be considered for best results.]]
Fork setting, I normally try to figure out the best pressure, checking sag in a slope and in "attack" position (standing and over the bars), so that the fork rides high in step descents, helping maintaining that wonderful HA.
Besides "feeling", another way to set suspension (rebound/compression), is by filming the suspension usage, preferably using high fps setting, to check in slow motion.
If fideling with the knobs is not your thing, write down your "standard" settings and do some runs on both extremes (fully open and fully closed), to feel the diference. Then move between the middle and fully open & middle to fully close.
You shouldn't bottom out, unless you drop or jump high (to flat!), and suspension should work mid stroke, returning to this position as soon as it absorve some bumps.
Just remember: plush... is not fast!
Side note:
One thing most people neglet is tire pressure, being the only part in contact with the ground (most of the time at least...).
Personally I set tire pressures using digital gauge (always the same!).
Also, has baseline rear tire pressure is ±10% more than front tire pressure.
A baseline os set for dry conditions and usual trail ground and speed and work from there.
When changing (always by feeling, but if you're a KOM/QOM chaser, you should have a clock!) I set front tire and adjust rear using the ±10%.
When I reach a good set upfront, if I have the time, and patience I fine tune the rear pressure.
Last edited:
wessobert3000
Member
Anyone tried a coil shock yet?
Mars2
Active member
I want to try.
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