My 9.7, purchased about three weeks ago, was in Denver Colorado.Sorry to hear of issues. I’ll notify TQ of these comments. Seems some are having issues (where are you based in terms of Geography?)
My demo is running superb in this setup
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My grind/rattle/flutter started exactly the same way. Very subtle and very infrequently. Overtime, over approximately 30 miles of riding, it has become more consistent and occurring more frequently. I can reproduce it now reliably by peddling just below the speed that the motor would theoretically be operating at. This can be done by coasting, , ( When the motor is not activated by any torque or strain through the crank ) and gradually increasing your pedal speed just enough to not produce any torque on the crank and it will make the sound reliably as long as you don’t put any torque on the crank which would turn the motor on. Actually it will be reproduced now by applying slight torque On the crank , but not enough to really get the motor to engage fully . This does not happen when the motor is turned completely off . ( ie When the control is powered off completely, or when the control is on but a long press of the lower speed, stops even eco )
I agree
I see swingset is close to an expert in this matter. I apologize for my meager comment about “agreeing “. , As if I knew what I was talking about.
Here is an update of my 4414 problem. MY LBS hooked my bike up to their diagnostic tool. The only thing it noticed was an out of spec speed sensor problem. The LBS fixed that problem and hopefully the 4414 error code problem is solved too. If not, Trek will want to do more homework.
I just checked and my beep tone is worthless too. I’d assumed it was off. Nope. I checked and it’s on. I can’t even hear it.Here is an update of my 4414 problem. MY LBS hooked my bike up to their diagnostic tool. The only thing it noticed was an out of spec speed sensor problem. The LBS fixed that problem and hopefully the 4414 error code problem is solved too. If not, Trek will want to do more homework.
My beeper has been working and beeping when I change assist levels but it is very low volume and very high pitch so, to hear it, my ear has to be right next to the display. So for me at least, it is useless. I doubt if anyone could hear it while riding. A functional beep would be nice but it isn't important. I'll turn the beep off and just yell out "Beep" whenever I press the button.
a 160mm fork will make a slight difference. Will slacken the head angle by approx 0.5 degrees and change the feel ever so slightly. Will make it slightly more stable at speed, and on steeper terrain. It'll slacken the seat tube angle very slightly too.
Actually point 3 would do it for me. I'm far too impatient.
I’m running one. According to Trek, you have to run the Mino Link in the high position.
So did you change the Mino Link to the high ? How did it ride without that?
Hi Rob did you change the Mino Link as per the post above?
I’m running 170 with mino in high. Don’t recall Trek suggesting mino in high for 160mm - thought it was more for the mullet config.
The beep is not very loud. I only hear the beep when the bike is not moving. And even then it's hard to hear it.
This makes no sense to me. Running the mino link in the high position raises the BB, doesn’t it? Going to a 160mm fork also raises the BB, so if anything, wouldn’t you want to run the mino link in the low position to keep the BB the same.
160mm Fork is GREAT on the EXe.
Its also about front to rear weight distribution.
Probably anything more than 160mm fork out front and warranty is void. Also, over stroking rear will likely void.
Since replaced haha! But yep, didnt notice until someone in the comments pointed it out!
, it was mostly a soapy-water and rag wash of the back wheel because I was changing the tire.All right so the run around has started in earnest for me. I faffed about a bit more with it and I just can't see how this is a wet connection or something so thought I'd get the ball rolling with the shop, I think it's going to be the display that's dud or something. The second shop also doesn't have a mechanic for two weeks. They said if I bring it in to either shop, the service advisor can plug something in and maybe get a diagnostic. Seems unlikely this will be useful as if it's broken something, there is no mechanic. I'm waiting for their service advisor to call me back. I guess he's like a triage guy. If I can get a diagnostic saying what's broken it might save time later.My bike won't turn on at the moment
I charged it, washed it, changed the back tire and handlebars, and now it won't turn on.
I rang the shop and "they don't have a mechanic at the moment he's on 2 weeks leave". I specifically went across town to a busier Trek branded shop so I'd get good service. So much for that theory, very much misjudged that one. They directed me to go to another shop and said they'd look after me.
I decided to pull the battery out and leave it over night first. Clearly relying on shops is going to be a hassle and I might as well see if I can sort it myself first.
The top of the battery actually was wet, along with the hardware up there around the charge port. The charger lights up green when plugged into the charge port though, suggesting its' OK.
I'll leave it overnight in case some connection is just wet. Before someone asks, no I didn't power wash
I think I'm about 300kms in.
It is with great happiness that I eat my words. After talking to the "service advisor" guy who is apparently not a mechanic, I took the bike in, with not high hopes. He tried to run diags, came out and said the display is dead, dragged one of the new ones off the floor. Came back out with mine all working, latest firmware etc, all sorted. Maybe 20 mins after I arrived I was leaving with a working bike. I'm really happy with that, and I can ride tomorrow.
Maybe he Harmonic pin ring gearbox is not compatible with the Coriolis force ?
