Dengfu E10 - The CHEEB V1.0 - Discussion

Sunburntwily said:
Ok I take all that I said back. Took the bike out today. Good hill climb, tech trails, down hill trail. Loved it. Some bedding in needed so tightened up the head set. The derailleur cable. Only problem is one very irritating issue that I am sure is not unique to me. The speedo jumps to 50 or 60 kph. So the motor cuts out. I am only doing 5 or 6kph when this happens and it was happening a lot. Anyone else have this issue? There is no error code so can only think it is either the magnet not close enough or perhaps a connection issue. Any ideas please. Other then that it is an awsome bike. I do have to say had a lot of peddle strikes. Need a shorter peddle arm maybe 170mm.
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It is occured on mine after 3 exit. bafang and other guy on endlessphere saied me that it is necessary that the magnet of speed sensor need to be at 1cm at less of the sensor (8mm on mine). I have checked my sensor and the wiring (it have working 3 time without problem). I have constated that i have losen the rubber cover of the fixation screw of the sensor.

As the screw is in steel, i have replaced it by one in alluminium (not magnetic). problem do not occur more. I can't explain but it is my experiency.

Why you need shortened crank arms ? you are in 150 travel and 27.5 freont rear ? no problem with mine in 160 and 27.5/29
 
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I'm currently riding a bike from a local store with this frame. They've participated in designing the E10. Sudden jumps in speed reading is very likely due to wheel magnet. Seems it needs to be carefully placed, doesn't take much before it's out of position.

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knut7 said:
I'm currently riding a bike from a local store with this frame. They've participated in designing the E10. Sudden jumps in speed reading is very likely due to wheel magnet. Seems it needs to be carefully placed, doesn't take much before it's out of position.

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nice. where we can find the rear mud guard ?
 
Thank you all. I put my bike up on the stand and turned the cranks, then the Speedo jumped to62kph. So I moved the magnet the wrong way then back again. I can't see any different in the placement but looks to ok now. Cheers
 
patdam said:
It is occured on mine after 3 exit. bafang and other guy on endlessphere saied me that it is necessary that the magnet of speed sensor need to be at 1cm at less of the sensor (8mm on mine). I have checked my sensor and the wiring (it have working 3 time without problem). I have constated that i have losen the rubber cover of the fixation screw of the sensor.

As the screw is in steel, i have replaced it by one in alluminium (not magnetic). problem do not occur more. I can't explain but it is my experiency.

Why you need shortened crank arms ? you are in 150 travel and 27.5 freont rear ? no problem with mine in 160 and 27.5/29
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I run 29/27.5 160mm front fork and 210×55 rear shock. So not sure if that is 150 rear travel or not. Anyway lots of peddle strikes. Thanks for the info on the magnet will be playing with that next. Cheers
 
Sunburntwily said:
I run 29/27.5 160mm front fork and 210×55 rear shock. So not sure if that is 150 rear travel or not. Anyway lots of peddle strikes. Thanks for the info on the magnet will be playing with that next. Cheers
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Ok with 210x55 you have +- 350mm of BB height no ? normally enougth, may be you have too many sag ?

I have 216x63, +- 360 of BB height and no problem with crank arms. The only way to reduce cranck arms length is to drill another hole on OEM arms (or purchase those done by LUNA), that give crank arms +- 155 mm. Too short for my point of vue.
 
patdam said:
Ok with 210x55 you have +- 350mm of BB height no ? normally enougth, may be you have too many sag ?

I have 216x63, +- 360 of BB height and no problem with crank arms. The only way to reduce cranck arms length is to drill another hole on OEM arms (or purchase those done by LUNA), that give crank arms +- 155 mm. Too short for my point of vue.
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Thanks mate, I agree 155mm is to short. Sag is 30% but I only have rockshock rl deluxe so not exactly a great rear shock. Front is a yari so not so good either. Anyway can upgrade these later.
 
savas said:
oo thx

Does it work good?i was planing ZTTO 11-52 slr2 hee:D

Greets

Sava
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Ok so have been for a couple of rides now, can't say anything about longevity but the ZITTO rear 9 speed cassette works well and am using a scram 9sp selector with a "Twoo A5" 9sp derailleur. I got this cheap derailleur because it is a straight pull from the chain stay, no loop to get caught up on. It works fine.I didn't use the "Twoo A5" 9s selector because it has no gear indicator on it. All good 11-50t and came with a 32t front that fits the befang. So I am happy the set up.
 
I have Just done my electrics on my E10and cannot get it to turn on can anybody has advice for me with turning it on because there is no power I have checked all connections and they alright am I missing anything cheers
 
Press the „On“ button on the right side of the frame. Then press the „On“ button below the + - buttons on the bar unit for a couple of seconds, until the display starts.
 
Christianoo7 said:
I have Just done my electrics on my E10and cannot get it to turn on can anybody has advice for me with turning it on because there is no power I have checked all connections and they alright am I missing anything cheers
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Yes as thaeber says there are 2 on switches. The button on the frame when pushed on will remain depressed and pushed again to off will sit flush with frame. If still an issue then remeber all the plugs are designed to be water proof. So when you say all the connections are right have another look. Especially the plug on the display. There was no way on earth you could have convinced me I had not plug it in. It plugs in, it clicks all looks right then when you apply more force, that plug that had already gaven a satisfying click will go in even more.
 
Hello,

do you have advice on the stem angle and length choices ? along with handle bar rise ?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Kiwin said:
Hello,

do you have advice on the stem angle and length choices ? along with handle bar rise ?

Thanks,
Kevin
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I cut my steer tube to fit the supplied dengfu headset and use a 20mm rise handle bar. The problem I did not see until it was to late, is the clearance for the display. The display only mounts on the 31.8mm handle bars and right of the stem. So with the dengfu head set I feel the clearance for the plugs underneath the display is a little to tight when you turn full lock. This is nothing to worry about for 99% of ridding but becomes an issue when you load the bike into your car or anytime you need to turn the handle bars over the cross bar. It's not a big deal but I think I would give a little more consideration too the bend radius of those wires hanging underneath the display. Hope that makes sense
 
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Sunburntwily said:
I cut my stem to fit the supplied dengfu headset and use a 20mm rise handle bar. The problem I did not see until it was to late, is the clearance for the display. The display only mounts on the 31mm handle bars and right of the stem. So with the dengfu head set I feel the clearance for the plugs underneath the display is a little to tight when you turn full lock. This is nothing to worry about for 99% of ridding but becomes an issue when you load the bike into your car or anytime you need to turn the handle bars over the top tube. It's not a big deal but I think I would give a little more consideration too the bend radius of those wires hanging underneath the display. Hope that makes sense
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Hello,
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I don't understand how and why you had to cut the stem ? can you explain ? Don't you use spacers anyways between the frame and the stem ? and maybe between the stem and the top of headset ?
Regards,
Kevin
 
What rear disc size works best for this frame. Im not sure if to go for a 160 which I have if that even fits or to go bigger
thanks
 
Wax said:
What rear disc size works best for this frame. Im not sure if to go for a 160 which I have if that even fits or to go bigger
thanks
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Rear disc is 180 out of the box, don't think you can go smaller, but you can go bigger with adaptors
 
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Kiwin said:
Hello,
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I don't understand how and why you had to cut the stem ? can you explain ? Don't you use spacers anyways between the frame and the stem ? and maybe between the stem and the top of headset ?
Regards,
Kevin
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Sorry I should say the steer tube. I think thats what it is called. The part of the fork that goes through the frame. Silly me. I will edit the post.
 
Wax said:
What rear disc size works best for this frame. Im not sure if to go for a 160 which I have if that even fits or to go bigger
thanks
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You should definitly not go under 200 m mate. Its an ebike with 25 kg that needs powerful braking :-)
 
Kiwin said:
Hello,
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I don't understand how and why you had to cut the stem ? can you explain ? Don't you use spacers anyways between the frame and the stem ? and maybe between the stem and the top of headset ?
Regards,
Kevin
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I think he's mixing up steerer tube with stem
 
striker11 said:
How much you pay now? I have a answer from last week 3000 $ with shiping to Poland.

View attachment 66872
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The price has not moved much. It really comes down to the exchange rates. Anyway not sure what the prices are in Poland but here in Australia it is only cheaper if you already have a bike you use parts from. My E10 cost $3334.84 Australian as per your quote. And total build $6118.53 as I didn't have a doner bike. A mate just bought a KTM 2972 for $7000 Australian new from the shop with warranty and arguably better components.
I am very very happy with my bike and love that I can service it myself but in reality the savings are not that great.
 
Sunburntwily said:
The price has not moved much. It really comes down to the exchange rates. Anyway not sure what the prices are in Poland but here in Australia it is only cheaper if you already have a bike you use parts from. My E10 cost $3334.84 Australian as per your quote. And total build $6118.53 as I didn't have a doner bike. A mate just bought a KTM 2972 for $7000 Australian new from the shop with warranty and arguably better components.
I am very very happy with my bike and love that I can service it myself but in reality the savings are not that great.
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In Poland I can buy completly bike exactly the same as here one for about 4200-5000 $
 
striker11 said:
In Poland I can buy completly bike exactly the same as here one for about 4200-5000 $
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So the savings are not there for you my friend. I would not do it again as I said the bike is great the frame as far as I am concerned is very very good but I would buy from a shop next time so I have a warranty etc. I must say though the befang motors are proving themselves to be pretty good and if you do burn it out because you are climbing in too higher gear it's a cheaper motor to replace then the mainstream motors. An fellow rider burnt out his Yamaha motor and cost him $2000 to replace. Anyway good luck with which ever way you go.
 
The E10's do make a lot of sense if you have a 29er or the likes sitting around, in my case the whole bike cost me less than £ 1200.00 as I had a complete bike of bits & pieces ( bar a few ) and used another brand of motor I had again sitting spare. Yes those bits cost me originally but they were sitting in the shed unloved and unlikely to be sold.

I do think the frame is very good though and you can use a wide range of parts on it, you just have to decide whether you want to fork out for all new components or recycle.

If I wanted all new then there's quite a case for talking to your local LBS as there's just about to be a mood change as soon as all those dealers who are using last years sales figures to reorder, are going to be over stocked when this years sales are not going to be quite like last year.
 
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