Dengfu E10 - The CHEEB V1.0 - Discussion

Hi Guys,

Has anyone cracked one of these yet? I am very keen to get one but would be interested in hearing how they are holding up over the longer term. Anyone really testing them out on aggressive trails?
 
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Seeing a few of the same questions so pulled what specs I could find into one list. Might help someone else too :)


Dropper Post: 31.6mm (Saw posts of the medium frame accepting 170mm length)

Front forks: 160mm

Rear shock: 210 x 55

Rear shock hardware: 16.5mm x 8mm linkage and 32mm x 8mm frame mount

Rear wheel: 148x12

Wheels: 27.5 or 29 or Mullet

Rear brake rotor posts: 180mm rotor
 
About "mullet". I have test the two (27.5 and 29). For my opinion 29 is better. The only point where rear 27.5 is a little bit better is on slow hard technical downhill, where lower BB hight (- 2 cm) provide bike feeling more "easy" and gave a few litlle more "trust". For me in all other case 29 is better , mostly in high speed. Precision: in "enduro" riding. I do not speak of "bike park" or DH. Not my practice.

My return is with the OEM angles with same front/rear travel, 150 or 160 ( presonally 160). I don't tested with larger travel in front than rear. But as the long reach + longer bases provide "extrem" long wheelbase and in add with the 27,5 rear (less front angle), the front is less "healthy", I do not see interest to increase front angle with higer fork travel.

This my opinion. I do not say "everybody need to doing like me", But i strongly recomand to test, differencies is not hudge but enough for everybody can feel it and that we could make the differency with a good bike and great bike (that the E10 can be)
 
I on the other hand have gone to 27.5 + 2.8" tyres on 150mm rear travel and 160mm front, but then I do mostly single track at lower speeds and a lot of climbing. My views are you should be riding in the bike and not on them ( that why I ride Whyte's ) which the higher you push the BB up, the more you have to slacken the front to get that nice safe front end feel ( the greater the head angle the duller the feed back ) and the more you get COG up and the slacker the front, the less nimble the bike becomes.

Horses for courses guys, you have to experiment to see what you want from the bike, its specs are for a very versatile frame and it will allow most riders to get the head angle, BB height, wheel tyre combo of your choice.
 
Has anyone of you guys have feedback on the controller and the display? Heart lot about the difficulties of mounting the display and about poor quality of the controller.
 
I on the other hand have gone to 27.5 + 2.8" tyres on 150mm rear travel and 160mm front, but then I do mostly single track at lower speeds and a lot of climbing. My views are you should be riding in the bike and not on them ( that why I ride Whyte's ) which the higher you push the BB up, the more you have to slacken the front to get that nice safe front end feel ( the greater the head angle the duller the feed back ) and the more you get COG up and the slacker the front, the less nimble the bike becomes.

Horses for courses guys, you have to experiment to see what you want from the bike, its specs are for a very versatile frame and it will allow most riders to get the head angle, BB height, wheel tyre combo of your choice.

As i'm convainced since the spectral by the front 29", I haven't tested 27'5 front and rear. May be i will do by curiosity at one time, but i will keep 29 forks, because less will gave BB height less than 350 and that is the minimum for me to practice in mountain.

About tire size, max for me is 2.4 front and 2.6 rear (in 29). Taller, i feel tire twist and i do not like that.
 
Has anyone of you guys have feedback on the controller and the display? Heart lot about the difficulties of mounting the display and about poor quality of the controller.

No difficult to mount the display, just increasing cable length needed. Easy for people able to builds DIY bike. About "poor quality" of controller ? can you clarify.
 
No difficult to mount the display, just increasing cable length needed. Easy for people able to builds DIY bike. About "poor quality" of controller ? can you clarify.
Well the controller of the bafang motor does not seem to be the best quality and mostly not the best looking controller. As i do not have seen and felt it I wanted to ask you guys.
 
Taller, i feel tire twist and i do not like that.
Yup you can get that with the really low pressures of + tyres, but what you do get with low pressures is tyre grip, lots of it. Unfortunately the UK is renown for its wet muddy conditions, grip in the wet is my priority as tire twist is not even a thought in mud.

However as the summer gets into full swing and the trails do harden up here, I do have a 29er 2.4" which goes on the front for about 3 months.
 
Yup you can get that with the really low pressures of + tyres, but what you do get with low pressures is tyre grip, lots of it. Unfortunately the UK is renown for its wet muddy conditions, grip in the wet is my priority as tire twist is not even a thought in mud.

However as the summer gets into full swing and the trails do harden up here, I do have a 29er 2.4" which goes on the front for about 3 months.
What's misfortune;)

Diffèrent use/diffèrent needs. Sometime it's a few wett, mostly these "covid" years who we can't ride in spain. But when we ride on mud, it is a mistake in track choice . And my principal need for grip is on braking and turn.
 
Hello everyone,

To be thankfull for all info and just reading, a post off my project so far.
Love to hear your thoughts off course. And excuse me if replies or not short therm some times.

Cheers Udo
20210317_214433.jpg
 
Hello everyone,

To be thankfull for all info and just reading, a post off my project so far.
Love to hear your thoughts off course. And excuse me if replies or not short therm some times.

Cheers Udo
View attachment 56400
A lot of beautiful (and expensive) parts on youy bike, i think near 21kg at the end.

my return on renthal stem. i have twisted one (but i have 100 kg wheigt)
 
A lot of beautiful (and expensive) parts on youy bike, i think near 21kg at the end.

my return on renthal stem. i have twisted one (but i have 100 kg wheigt)


Hello,

Your wright about the parts. But with patience and searching it is also not above 5K total. Got some discounts and there where parts in sale.

We will see what the scale says and performance will be. The suspension setup now is suprising me in positive way. I like setup options and there are plenty and in a good range.

I hope i will not experience failures to much. But off course it can happn.

Hope you did not got hurt yourselves.

Cheers.
 
Well my chinese carbon wheels have arrived. 29 and 27.5. I have no idea what I have purchased. The rim shape is odd. Nice curve one side then steep the other. They are described as asymmetrical clincher mtb wheels. I also don't know what the brake set up is. I'm old school so this set up is new to me. Note the valve location in compare with the spokes. Anyway they look the part. I would be grateful if someone would be kind enough to tell me how the disc goes on.
16165460287451509596845.jpg
1616546067294734297788.jpg
 
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Well my chinese carbon wheels have arrived. 29 and 27.5. I have no idea what I have purchased. The rim shape is odd. Nice curve one side then steep the other. They are described as asymmetrical clincher mtb wheels. I also don't know what the brake set up is. I'm old school so this set up is new to me. Note the valve location in compare with the spokes. Anyway they look the part. I would be grateful if someone would be kind enough to tell me how the disc goes on. View attachment 56549View attachment 56550
Hello,

Asemetric is for spokelength. If this is as even as possible spoketension is also even and therefor the wheel is firmer.
Also the reason off rimshape. I should be able to see spokes are not in the middle of the rim.

For brakes.... google centerlock. There is only 1 type if i am not mistaking.

Cheers
 
Well my chinese carbon wheels have arrived. 29 and 27.5. I have no idea what I have purchased. The rim shape is odd. Nice curve one side then steep the other. They are described as asymmetrical clincher mtb wheels. I also don't know what the brake set up is. I'm old school so this set up is new to me. Note the valve location in compare with the spokes. Anyway they look the part. I would be grateful if someone would be kind enough to tell me how the disc goes on. View attachment 56549View attachment 56550
"old school" whould mean old man ? may be you prefer most confortable ? I have tried carbon rims, the bike working well but the rigidity is strongly felt and the win in weight not really, i prefer alloy rims for my old bones .

Which width ? 30 mm for me is the best to use with 2.4 / 2.6 tires, I have tried more width (40mm) with 2.8 tires, but too many constraints on spoke and i have crack several (never occur on my other rims)
 
Hi guys, totally forgot what thread was the charging of battery. May i know the initial charging(1st time charging) of the battery ? thanks
 
"old school" whould mean old man ? may be you prefer most confortable ? I have tried carbon rims, the bike working well but the rigidity is strongly felt and the win in weight not really, i prefer alloy rims for my old bones .

Which width ? 30 mm for me is the best to use with 2.4 / 2.6 tires, I have tried more width (40mm) with 2.8 tires, but too many constraints on spoke and i have crack several (never occur on my other rims)
Not old, only 63 ?. The wheels are mostly an experiment. At $669 aus at the front door I thought why not. They are 35mm external 29mm internal between the clinch.
 
Hello,

Asemetric is for spokelength. If this is as even as possible spoketension is also even and therefor the wheel is firmer.
Also the reason off rimshape. I should be able to see spokes are not in the middle of the rim.

For brakes.... google centerlock. There is only 1 type if i am not mistaking.

Cheers
Thank you.
 
Not old, only 63 ?. The wheels are mostly an experiment. At $669 aus at the front door I thought why not. They are 35mm external 29mm internal between the clinch.
29 internal is the good choice if you whould use 2.4 to 2.6 for my opinion. 669 AUD for the two is amazing price for quality complete wheels. for exemple i paid my carbone rims from china (BTLOS) more than 230 AUD each
 
Found this site to be very useful when assessing which size frame would be best for me vs my current bike. If you have not used the site before its really easy to use.

 
Heres my million dollar question. I have a cobalt blue 2021 . I LOVE it. The battery is silent. The belt noise is zero. ALL is well. The one thing I would LOVE to have from the 2022 is the new mastermind TCU unit/ display. Is that possible?? Cheers!!
 
Just because this is so called face lift not a new gen. Same motor, battery, kinematics. You can get all the info from new TCU displayed on Garmin and ina much better way as it is hard to look at TCU while riding.
WOAH So you think I could get me LBS to install the new TCU display on my 2021 turbo levo expert??
 
Heres my million dollar question. I have a cobalt blue 2021 . I LOVE it. The battery is silent. The belt noise is zero. ALL is well. The one thing I would LOVE to have from the 2022 is the new mastermind TCU unit/ display. Is that possible?? Cheers!!
It's possible technically. But not on availability at present. With supply chains being strained at the moment, they're not selling the MTCU's as separate items at present. I think the plan is to do so in the future, for now they only have enough for new bikes.
 
Went out front to bring the bins in. And this box was sitting on my door step. No indication that it had been delivered or about to be. Just sitting there. So glad I live in a very quiet street. Nice looking bit of kit. Ordered with the frame on the 22jan. No frame or battery yet. I don't mind the screen or buttons, they feel good to me slight rubber feel. I like it.

16169929806441209305410.jpg
 
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