Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
First off the geometry on the Vitus is very different to the bikes you have, or anything you may have ridden if your experience is limited to your bikes, so even if you went for the small it will feel a lot slacker than your current bikes, and you will still get the stability/bulldozer like downhilling ability that all the reviews talk about, so you don't need to worry about that.
In your position i would go for the size that allows me to drop the seat the most - I am guessing that on the M you are thinking you need a 125mm dropper, but that on the S you can use a 150mm? However the amount you can insert the post is (I think!) less on the S, so i don't know if you can actually get a bigger drop on it so to speak, though Gary can probably help on this, and i think for 2019 Vitus may have made an adjustment to the inside of the seat tube so that you can get a post further down, but not sure.
So basically if you could get a 150mm dropper on the S, where the seat height works for you, that might be the best way to go., but at the same time i don't think the M with a 125mm would be a bad choice either.
The beauty of the Sommett is that you can there are 3 ways of looking at buying one.
1. Buy the vr and have a very sorted bike you can tweak and upgrade as and when, but doesn't need it out the box
2. Buy the base model and have a very good value bike that will suit a lot of people spec wise.
3. Buy the base model, and use it as a platform to go to town on, drop another 2k on parts and have something special at the end.
1. Buy the vr and have a very sorted bike you can tweak and upgrade as and when, but doesn't need it out the box
2. Buy the base model and have a very good value bike that will suit a lot of people spec wise.
3. Buy the base model, and use it as a platform to go to town on, drop another 2k on parts and have something special at the end.
I think the fork is the biggest difference between the two bikes. The Yari is plenty good enough but the Lyrik is really good. The brakes are about equal in power - I think personal preference on the feel of them would be deciding factor. I can't ever tell the difference between deore and xt drivetrains and I'd probably prefer cheaper steel for something that's a consumable. I really don't think there's much in it with the rest of the spec.
The dropper on the small will be plenty big enough as it is by the way.
The dropper on the small will be plenty big enough as it is by the way.
Lyrik is the biggest difference on the Dore model. then the RT3 Shock
But the wheels, brakes, finishing kit and brakes are also better on the VR.
Guide REs are a way more powerful brake than the Shimanos. (I have both)
But the wheels, brakes, finishing kit and brakes are also better on the VR.
Guide REs are a way more powerful brake than the Shimanos. (I have both)
I'm not asking anyone to buy into it.
A small E-Sommet isn't really very small.
it has a 445mm reach. 444mm stays and a whopping 1200mm wheelbase.
it's bigger than most Medium sized Enduro bikes from 2017
I ride DH, DJ slopestyle and BMX bikes. I don't ride long stretched out wheels on the ground Enduro. I didn't suddenly start riding differently when 2017 came along and pretty much every bike company had added an inch in reach to their entire bike ranges sizing.. screaming stability was the new purple! and I'm certainly not going to start riding any differently because some bloke on the internet believes the marketing he's been fed by the bike industry.
the flip side to this is all the bikes I fit now generally have more standover/shorter seat tubes,
I want a playful easier to pop bike. a medium E-Sommet simply wouldn't be so playful. it's the longest bike I own (incl my Enduro/DH bikes)
inwoods
Active member
Sorry for been a bit thick but I only found out what a mech hanger even was the other week when my son bent his but is this the one that wants a bit of thread lock on Gary ?
No. The black nut above it that holds the hanger to the frame (and the 12mm axle threads into)
inwoods
Active member
Ah ok, cheers will get that done.
thepalerider
Member
Anyone Know when these vitus bikes might be available again?
I doubt CRC even do.
Somewhere between the end of this month to or towards the end of November is the rumour
Somewhere between the end of this month to or towards the end of November is the rumour
Mech hanger turned up today, fitted the new one, threadlocked and the fit is fine, no movement or excessive wear to the seat stay from it coming loose... Phew! have kept the hanger part as a spare.
Also replaced the front hub bearings as there was play. 1000miles? not great, not all that unusual though (I'd actually blame the newer maxle design for premature wear as it's tricky to get the clamping force just right with the lever closed parallel to the fork leg without a bit of faffing)
When refitting the end caps I didn't have a socket a suitable size for the outer rings that press in last so ended up pressing the non disc side on ein by hand until it was flush (not actually pressed in far enough and ended up resorting to freezing the disc side one to get it into the recess. Not ideal at all. Fucking shitty design. What does anyone else use? Socket? proper tool? or did you find a tube with the correct ID/OD somewhere? Please share as I really don't want to buy a DT tool.
Also replaced the front hub bearings as there was play. 1000miles? not great, not all that unusual though (I'd actually blame the newer maxle design for premature wear as it's tricky to get the clamping force just right with the lever closed parallel to the fork leg without a bit of faffing)
When refitting the end caps I didn't have a socket a suitable size for the outer rings that press in last so ended up pressing the non disc side on ein by hand until it was flush (not actually pressed in far enough and ended up resorting to freezing the disc side one to get it into the recess. Not ideal at all. Fucking shitty design. What does anyone else use? Socket? proper tool? or did you find a tube with the correct ID/OD somewhere? Please share as I really don't want to buy a DT tool.
Sorry man. That's not what I'm asking. I have professional sets of bearing pullers, drifts, presses and bearing seating tools for pretty much every bike bearing I own.
The bearings were removed and replaced easily. I have done this many many times.
what I was asking about was seating the outer ring of DTs STUPIDLY DESIGNED 2 piece end caps in the hub shell recess
STUPID RINGS ^^
The bearings were removed and replaced easily. I have done this many many times.
what I was asking about was seating the outer ring of DTs STUPIDLY DESIGNED 2 piece end caps in the hub shell recess
STUPID RINGS ^^
rmh1009
New Member
DT Swiss tools so expensive. I fitted the torque caps on my H1700 front wheel and happened to have a socket that perfectly sat over the cap but small enough to not catch the hub shell. The lock ring needs to be knocked in just below the hub but it's not going anywhere when the is fitted I suppose.
Ah... Bodged locators I did have. Mine were far more ingenius i reckon though...
I ended up freezing the rings, dropping the non disc one in and just pressing it in by hand and finishing off with a block of wood and hammer, The disc side needs to be located far deeper so I dropped the even more frozenring in locating it by pressing it in with wooden 3 barbeque skewers from the cutlery drawer, then waiting for them to thaw. not ideal but they seem secure(ish) but I'm 99% sure neither is fully located,
That's what I was looking for but didn't have any that would fit. What size socket did you end up using?
Might make my search easier.
Actually, thinking about it, 27mm OD PVC pipe would do the job perfectly I reckon. Pity there's not a plumbing supplier close by
googling 3/4" ID PVC pipe is 26.7mm OD so that sounds perfect
Last edited:
rmh1009
New Member
Ah... Bodged locators I did have. Mine were far more ingenius i reckon though...
I ended up freezing the rings, dropping the non disc one in and just pressing it in by hand and finishing off with a block of wood and hammer, The disc side needs to be located far deeper so I dropped the even more frozenring in locating it by pressing it in with wooden 3 barbeque skewers from the cutlery drawer, then waiting for them to thaw. not ideal but they seem secure(ish) but I'm 99% sure neither is fully located,
That's what I was looking for but didn't have any that would fit. What size socket did you end up using?
Might make my search easier.
Actually, thinking about it, 27mm OD PVC pipe would do the job perfectly I reckon. Pity there's not a plumbing supplier close by
googling 3/4" ID PVC pipe is 26.7mm OD so that sounds perfect
It's in the bike tool box. I'll have a look tomorrow mate.
Brilliant. Cheers!
rmh1009
New Member
21mm socket should do it but I borrowed a 3/8 drive socket off a mate that had a thinner wall and fitted perfect.
Anyone think this frame looks familiar?
Kelly's E-Bike Theos AM Shimano STEPS E8000 / Deore XT 11 Speed | eBay
Kelly's E-Bike Theos AM Shimano STEPS E8000 / Deore XT 11 Speed | eBay
There are lots of similar versions of the frame out there, all a bit different, non with the Vitus geometry.
Thats because most are based off OEM frame out of Astro in Taiwan, who as it happens made the frame for the demo bikes when Shimano launched the E8000 System.
ASTRO Own Design E MTB Frame - Shimano E Suspension
E.G Willier
What you tend to see is that some brands have different rear ends. A lot of brands just buy the generic frame ad badge it up, others use it s a base and change a fair bit - the commonality is the Zero suspension platform, and the down tube/bb area.
Thats because most are based off OEM frame out of Astro in Taiwan, who as it happens made the frame for the demo bikes when Shimano launched the E8000 System.
ASTRO Own Design E MTB Frame - Shimano E Suspension
E.G Willier
What you tend to see is that some brands have different rear ends. A lot of brands just buy the generic frame ad badge it up, others use it s a base and change a fair bit - the commonality is the Zero suspension platform, and the down tube/bb area.
Thanks mate. I had a 22mm here that was too thick but no 21mm. I'll try and raid my motorbiker mate's sockets next time I'm round there to make sure it's seated properly.
The KTM (Astro) frame I saw spyshots from interbike of looks promising. KTM did a great 27'5 Ironhorse Sunday (almost) rip off a few years ago with sorted (decently low/slack geo) that was ridden to pretty decent success in US National DH races. Hopeful they got their numbers and kinematics rigt on their Ebike
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