Kenevo Gen1 Official 2018/2019 Kenevo thread

[Joeyrotundo]

No need, Paul and I already are well acquainted.
I installed it myself and yes it definitely needs to be electric!

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Nothing wrong with a little horseplay ,but when you and the Frenchman are done with farming advice....

How is that Rohloff treating you?

And Zimmerframe did you trim or Dremel that fender to clear the chainline in 42t?

Looking at winter solutions , the fender the cheaper of the two of course ,at least in the short term.

 

[CjP]

Nothing wrong with a little horseplay ,but when you and the Frenchman are done with farming advice....

How is that Rohloff treating you?

Lol it’s treating me well. I’ve tried it at a few different parks with mixed results.
On the tight tecky stuff it requires good gear choice as under power you can’t change it.
My motor does have a fairly late cute out, sometimes up to 3 seconds which obviously makes it harder to change gears.
I’ve learnt what gears work where and does the job fine.
Everywhere else it’s awesome. No more derailleur hanging down getting smashed everywhere, chain slap almost non existent, super quick changes. I especially love the ability to grab any gear without the need to pedal the bike, very handy feature to have.
If it had the electronic trigger with motor disconnect it would be perfect.
I thought I’d hate the twist grip but it’s actually pretty handy.

All in all I’m happy with my purchase.

 

[Zimmerframe]

And Zimmerframe did you trim or Dremel that fender to clear the chainline in 42t?

Looking at winter solutions , the fender the cheaper of the two of course ,at least in the short term.

To make the "Mudhugger front race" fit, I had to trim about 5cm's off the nose. Was too lazy to get the dremel out so used and angle grinder with a well worn down stainless steel cutting disk (really thin).

To trim the bottom corner off, where I'd try'd to be clever and make it the same shape as the rear triangle, I cut with the serrated blade on a leatherman - The plastic is supple, but easy to cut with a sharp knife and probably decent scissors.

Now, where were we with the farming statistics ...

 

[Zimmerframe]

If it had the electronic trigger with motor disconnect it would be perfect.
I thought I’d hate the twist grip but it’s actually pretty handy.

Shame you can't wire in a left thumb button to cut the motor power like a clutch ! probably need a relay if you were to intercept the main battery feed. Maybe there's some other cut out option - there's enough threads on "my motor doesn't work", you think one of them would be a fault which could be adapted to your advantage.

What happens if you press the walk button when you're tanking along ?

 

[CjP]

Shame you can't wire in a left thumb button to cut the motor power like a clutch ! probably need a relay if you were to intercept the main battery feed. Maybe there's some other cut out option - there's enough threads on "my motor doesn't work", you think one of them would be a fault which could be adapted to your advantage.

What happens if you press the walk button when you're tanking along ?

My walk button has been crap from day one so I’d imagine it does nothing to help.

I like the clutch idea but I’m also lazy so I want the Rohloff Eshifter. That way I can get rid of the cables and twist shifter in one. I’m going to do some more research as it couldn’t be that hard. It’s just wires and programming. Someone has to be able to rig something up.
When it shifts it shifts so so good. Really positive and lighting quick.
I know we’ll get there eventually, I just have to be patient.

 

[Zimmerframe]

My walk button has been crap from day one so I’d imagine it does nothing to help.

OK . So just for future reference .. pressing WALK mode if you're in ECO/TRAIL/TURBO and pedalling makes no difference. Pressing and holding any of the buttons has no effect on the motor assistance.

Pressing WALK mode when you're standing next to the bike in the garage - running Blevo to see if the display changes instantly to "WALK" - after about a half second delay causes the bike to leap forward and smash a pedal into your leg .. just so you know .. and also, the display does not change.

 

[wepn]

Someone has to be able to rig something up.
When it shifts it shifts so so good. Really positive and lighting quick.
I know we’ll get there eventually, I just have to be patient.

As sure as night follows day.

In order to produce something that shifts at least the same or even quicker than 180 m/s & smoother than the Bosch based Rohloff E-14, you need to do that via the CAN bus. That can be done by logging, analysing & decoding CANopen CAN frames. COB-ID’s & node ID’s reverse engineering can take considerable people hours not to mention the mammoth daily caffeine & alcohol supplies those type of experts demand.

And after 6 months work, you’re a week away from releasing it & you guessed it, Brose Rohloff E-14 is on the shelf at your corner bike shop. That said, it is possible that Rohloff has an agreement with Bosch that prevents the development of a factory Brose version. Interesting considerations.

 

[Zimmerframe]

via the CAN bus

This might be written by an Aussie, but just in case anything is being lost in Aussie translation, the "CAN Bus", is not a municipal public transport vehicle which has been converted for emergency beer deliveries.

decoding CANopen

And no, this does not mean videoing yourself drinking beer.

 

[wepn]

the "CAN Bus", is not a municipal public transport vehicle which has been converted for emergency beer deliveries.

Not certain but I think it is in Darwin.

And no, this does not mean videoing yourself drinking beer.

You haven't been to Darwin

 

[CjP]

OK . So just for future reference .. pressing WALK mode if you're in ECO/TRAIL/TURBO and pedalling makes no difference. Pressing and holding any of the buttons has no effect on the motor assistance.

Pressing WALK mode when you're standing next to the bike in the garage - running Blevo to see if the display changes instantly to "WALK" - after about a half second delay causes the bike to leap forward and smash a pedal into your leg .. just so you know .. and also, the display does not change.

Lol I know this, I was being sarcastic. Also my walk mode wouldn’t even knock over a small child.
Thanks for the lesson though.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Lol I know this, I was being sarcastic.

haha .. I was more meaning that pressing WALK, won't work as a clutch - ie, instant motor cutout (or almost cutout). The other part was me being dumb and being so focused on waiting for the display to change from "TURBO" to "WALK" that I completely forgot that the bike would also move

 

[CjP]

As sure as night follows day.

In order to produce something that shifts at least the same or even quicker than 180 m/s & smoother than the Bosch based Rohloff E-14, you need to do that via the CAN bus. That can be done by logging, analysing & decoding CANopen CAN frames. COB-ID’s & node ID’s reverse engineering can take considerable people hours not to mention the mammoth daily caffeine & alcohol supplies those type of experts demand.

And after 6 months work, you’re a week away from releasing it & you guessed it, Brose Rohloff E-14 is on the shelf at your corner bike shop. That said, it is possible that Rohloff has an agreement with Bosch that prevents the development of a factory Brose version. Interesting considerations.

I love it when you talk can bus!
Once again all I heard was e14 Brose Rohloff.

Get it done wepn, get it done.

I’ll be booking a trip to Germany if I have to and start another war.

 

[wepn]

I love it when you talk can bus!
Once again all I heard was e14 Brose Eohloff.

Get it done wepn, get it done.

I’ll be booking a trip to Germany if I have to and start another war.

Haha I think the best way might be an open source collaboration via GitHub.

OTOH it’s extremely likely that Brose are already onto it. Of course that could be with Rohloff or some other IGH.

 

[CjP]

Haha I think the best way might be an open source collaboration via GitHub.

OTOH it’s extremely likely that Brose are already onto it. Of course that could be with Rohloff or some other IGH.

Again with the dirty talk!

Na in all seriousness I hope they do. Makes sense for everyone to do it

 

[Joeyrotundo]

The "Can bus" part got my attention for sure.

Starting a 5 day commute /ride Tomo of 150k plus,love my Kenevo gents.

The walk mode is great for resetting your gears into the big ring when you completely f&-k a climb and you are pushing your 50+ pounds/23.68kg/ 3.571.whatever stone monster bike up a hill.


Ride Hard
Drink After
Talk sh*t about Aussies and the French always
Joey

 

[Zimmerframe]

The walk mode is great for resetting your gears into the big ring when you completely f&-k a climb and you are pushing your 50+ pounds/23.68kg/ 3.571.whatever stone monster bike up a hill.

My first emtb was hub motored (Decathlon E-ST500 .. ok, so say no more). Because it was hub motored, even though walk mode worked well, it didn't turn the chain, so you couldn't do the gears thing.

Second was a Shimano E8000 bike. The walk mode on these is configured to be "idiot safe" - so it goes really really slowly unless you're in the highest gear (smallest cog) - so to use it properly, you have to work your way though the gears to be in the gear you least want to be in to set off again ...

The Kenevo/Spesh walk mode seems to work really well, as you say, you can flick through the gears as you push so you're ready to go again !

Except for @Christian, who says his doesn't work very well, but everything has to be fast for Christian so he's probably holding down the turbo button and the walk button at the same time for TURBO WALK.

 

[CjP]

No no it’s not me, well I used to be treated for adhd so you could be right.
Life’s just better when everything’s faster.
I found my walk mode sometimes goes at 5km/h and sometimes real slow. Before you ask yes that’s on the biggest cog.
Now when I mess up a climb I just stop twisting my wrist and I’m back in 1st or what ever gear I want to be in.
It’s great

 

[Zimmerframe]

Now when I mess up a climb I just stop twisting my wrist and I’m back in 1st or what ever gear I want to be in.
It’s great

Rohloff Roll On .. no one likes a show off ????

 

[Zimmerframe]

well I used to be treated for adhd

All Downhill, Hard Downhill ?

 

[CjP]

All Downhill, Hard Downhill ?

Acute Down Hill Disease

I actually have a top too

 

[Zimmerframe]

Mudguard : Mudhugger Front Race - mounted front and rear - Update..

Had rain for a week so it's slushy, slippy and crap .. Managed 40k on my magic powerless battery to test the guards .. more on that later ..

They actually performed pretty well. Rode through several full crappy bits and no problems with clogging front or rear.

This was after about 200 meters of this crap .. Bike was incredibly unsplattered. Too give an idea of gloopyness - the bike is holding itself upright.

Front guard did a great job of protecting the fork uppers, my face and upper body.

The rear kept linkages far cleaner than I expected and the back of the bike in general. Only issue was that I'd cut it back about 5mm too short, so there's a tiny gap at the bottom where all the crap capillaries through to the bottom pivot area. Needs taping or something. The original zip ties would have help it in place, but they snapped off for some reason.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I actually have a top too

You must stand out from the crowd. I thought most Aussies wondered around topless wearing dungarees, even the Sheilas...

Anyway .. ... So, the two interesting other things from yesterday were RANGE ..

Running eGenesis on Eco Auto and default settings, at one point I was upto 23km's and 30% battery used - which is massive compared to normal and more than I get in low eco settings and turning the bike on and off for the easier bits. The downside is that it's pretty knackering Need to try some none standard setting in Blevo Auto and see what that gives me, the default ones still ate my battery on Eco Smart.

The second thing was the Butchers. It was the first time out on them when it was really wet. I've still not got round to tubeless, so the pressure is high 1.8bar 27psi ish to avoid pinch flats.

In the mud and sandy, leafy or earth sections - they were fine. Coming down the sections which are just rock and roots -they were terrifying ! They were 100% predictable - in that they would slip on everything. Even on climbs - touch a wet rock or root and they'd instantly spin up and slide out.

So maybe that's where some people struggle with them, depends on your type of root/rock in the wet and when running higher pressures .. I hope it's just higher pressures. Need to change to tubeless before the next ride !!!

 

[CjP]

dungarees,
Lol I had to look that one up. No I definitely do not wear those. Yuk!
Anyway .. ... So, the two interesting other things from yesterday were RANGE ..

I’m sticking with my original theory. The Specialized HQ guy wouldn’t update my bike around 3 months ago as he said the app was causing battery issues with peoples bikes. The same time you bought yours.

Now your getting better mileage with a different app?
Have you any flat trails in your area? I can get 75km on flat trails with a mix of 30% road and 70% off-road with 26% battery remaining, with tires at 35psi. Kept them hard to get better range. All eco 30/100
Can you try that for comparison?

 

[wepn]

the app was causing battery issues with peoples bikes

If you're getting expected range in Turbo but not in Eco and not seeing any charging abnormalities, then I agree with Christian, most likely firmware related

 

[Zimmerframe]

dungarees,
Lol I had to look that one up. No I definitely do not wear those. Yuk!
Anyway .. ... So, the two interesting other things from yesterday were RANGE ..

I’m sticking with my original theory. The Specialized HQ guy wouldn’t update my bike around 3 months ago as he said the app was causing battery issues with peoples bikes. The same time you bought yours.

Now your getting better mileage with a different app?
Have you any flat trails in your area? I can get 75km on flat trails with a mix of 30% road and 70% off-road with 26% battery remaining, at around 35psi. Kept them hard to get better range. All eco 30/100
Can you try that for comparison?

Mine did have the latest firmware updates at the time. Not sure if there have been any updates since. I guess your guy would know when/if they're released.

On my hungover flatten battery test, I got about 28k just on Turbo ! which completely contradicted everything I'd seen up until that point. I'm lucky to get much more than 35 on eco 15/20 . My 38k ride last week on those had me riding the last 5k home with no battery.

Blevo and Egenesis vary the assistance (ie, change the 15/20 whatever settings as they see fit) as you ride along. So my Eco yesterday was starting at 5 - ultimately leading to greater range. But then I've seen Eco with no app running, on 15/20 drop 10% battery in 2.5km's descent !

Eco 30/100 !!!! You lazy git ! That's not eco ! That's just low boost turbo !

Yesterdays 40k was flat ish (768m). I can ride further to find flatter .. but then I'm concerned I'll just have to ride 30k home with no battery if it does it's normal random battery usage.

I shall have to give it a go on the tow path and ride until I've used 50% battery and see how it goes. If it is the firmware, it's performing some miss calculation or something ...

 

[CjP]

Eco 30/100 !!!! You lazy git ! That's not eco ! That's just low boost turbo !

Lol that was the old me, before I played with settings, now I’m on 30/50 and I’m totally fine with that.
I see no reason to make my already heavy bike heavier feeling, besides when you have so many watts to play with why not.

You wouldn’t understand..

 

[wepn]

Mine did have the latest firmware updates at the time. Not sure if there have been any updates since. I guess your guy would know when/if they're released.

On my hungover flatten battery test, I got about 28k just on Turbo ! which completely contradicted everything I'd seen up until that point. I'm lucky to get much more than 35 on eco 15/20 . My 38k ride last week on those had me riding the last 5k home with no battery.

Blevo and Egenesis vary the assistance (ie, change the 15/20 whatever settings as they see fit) as you ride along. So my Eco yesterday was starting at 5 - ultimately leading to greater range. But then I've seen Eco with no app running, on 15/20 drop 10% battery in 2.5km's descent !

Eco 30/100 !!!! You lazy git ! That's not eco ! That's just low boost turbo !

Yesterdays 40k was flat ish (768m). I can ride further to find flatter .. but then I'm concerned I'll just have to ride 30k home with no battery if it does it's normal random battery usage.

I shall have to give it a go on the tow path and ride until I've used 50% battery and see how it goes. If it is the firmware, it's performing some miss calculation or something ...

One other thing I remember you said somewhere you "charged to full 41V"...is that right? Should be 42V innit? I don't charge to 100% all the time so I don't exactly recall the displayed voltage maybe 41.7V?

BTW just watching Guy Martin peddling 23mph on the long way to cross the desert highway in China in 2 days on a fixie. Is that you Z?

 

[Zimmerframe]

Lol that was the old me, before I played with settings, now I’m on 30/50 and I’m totally fine with that.
I see no reason to make my already heavy bike heavier feeling, besides when you have so many watts to play with why not.

You wouldn’t understand..

Trust me.. I DO ! I'm not enjoying my crap range spesh compared to the e8000. In order to get any range I have to set it like it's just a normal bike. What's the f. Point in that. For me the ebike is that I can work my arse off but go twice the distance in the same time. Not work my arse off and do the same as a none electric bike. The fact that mine only has the ability to move its own extra mass makes it pointless. F. F. F. ING.. stupid ?

 

[CjP]

Can you go back to that shop and ask them to test the battery or check firmware?

 

[Zimmerframe]

Can you go back to that shop and ask them to test the battery or check firmware?

Now now .. I said I wasn't going to talk about my battery.. or lack of battery and I keep doing it b0ll0x .

That's all I went to the shop for in the first place was to see if they could test the battery. Not sure if they could do a full "soak" test or if they've have to rig it up and have it charge/discharge under controlled circumstances or if they can just check some logs on the battery... But nope, they wouldn't touch it.

Haven't heard from spesh rider care or seen any forum Activity for a while, hope he's ok. Might be heading up the 2020 Kenevo global news silence assassination team ..