- Thread starter
- #31
Maybe it needs a little nose fairing to tidy it up!
Weird Reversed Stem Geo / Chat
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
And with forks with (for example) 45mm offsets a loooong way behind the front axle.
Hey, number plates are already used in dh. Can run cables behind for a clean look and like ktm mx bikes have on their number plate an integrated front brake line slot.
- Thread starter
- #34
That’s it. Gonna get one to tidy it up!
We
If we meet up, i've probably got an ODI one here in spares.
we run a Mudhugger one, most of the paddock run the ODI, but just make sure you trim the bottom as they can hit the cable ties and snap them on a DH bike
If we meet up, i've probably got an ODI one here in spares.
Rob's comment about different shaped people liking vs not got me wondering if shorter stem would be worth a try. I'm more on the long torso short legs form factor. I've been good on 470-475 reach bikes (eeb & DH), but the seated position on my K2 Voima MX didn't feel great out of the box and got numb hands on climbs. Played around with stem height a bunch, went from a zero rise 40mm stem to a Hope 50mm 20 degree rise and then kept stacking spacers under it until I ran out of steerer tube, probably somewhere around 5-6cm.
Higher up did help the hands but didn't solve it. I noticed on climbs that the eeb was much more prone to lifting the front wheel. I could lean forward, but it got to the point it felt awkward, especially on switchback climbing corners when you had the bars cranked sideways. On steep descents it felt great, being more stood up makes the trail feel less steep, but when I got into sections with banked turns, I noticed the higher the bars the more I started feeling the front tire lose grip and even dumped myself off the bike a couple times.
Fast forward to this fall, after riding my DH bike all summer, the Voima just felt off. So went to the local jump park and started lowering the stem again and when I hit about 20mm of spacers removed, the confidence came back in the corners and on jumps.
Curious if you guys think keeping similar rise but using one of these short or reverse stems would be a worthwhile thing to try? I've got 46 & 54 offset crowns for the DH38 fork, so could get the 58 offset set if that would help? Or does getting on a larger frame make more sense? I'm getting a new DH frame soon, so part of me is wondering if maybe on that one I consider changing from a 475 reach L to an XL at 505?
Higher up did help the hands but didn't solve it. I noticed on climbs that the eeb was much more prone to lifting the front wheel. I could lean forward, but it got to the point it felt awkward, especially on switchback climbing corners when you had the bars cranked sideways. On steep descents it felt great, being more stood up makes the trail feel less steep, but when I got into sections with banked turns, I noticed the higher the bars the more I started feeling the front tire lose grip and even dumped myself off the bike a couple times.
Fast forward to this fall, after riding my DH bike all summer, the Voima just felt off. So went to the local jump park and started lowering the stem again and when I hit about 20mm of spacers removed, the confidence came back in the corners and on jumps.
Curious if you guys think keeping similar rise but using one of these short or reverse stems would be a worthwhile thing to try? I've got 46 & 54 offset crowns for the DH38 fork, so could get the 58 offset set if that would help? Or does getting on a larger frame make more sense? I'm getting a new DH frame soon, so part of me is wondering if maybe on that one I consider changing from a 475 reach L to an XL at 505?
Bikerchef1
Member
I bought a Norco Vlt for a very good price but its XL and I normally rode a large. It's totally rideable but very long and not as comfortable or optimal as I'd like. This seems like it would be a decent solution to reach though,yes? I allready have high rise bars as I have a pretty bang3d up neck from years of snowboarding, MX mountain bike crashes etc so I like to be somewhat upright.
D
Deleted member 37410
Guest
I feel robbed, I wanted this to be my secret awesome recipe for a while longer
I've not tried the reverse/zero reach stem yet but I've been gradually increasing stack/bar height for a while now. I went from stock 20mm rise bars to 37mm initially and found no downside so I then tried 50mm Renthals (which felt fantastic and again with no downside for me). I'm now up to 60mm rise which feels good but the improvement wasn't as dramatic as going from 37mm to 50mm. I've been tempted to try 70mm rise but imagined that at some point it would be too much but having read this thread maybe I'll give it a go.
From my experience I'd say that if you're still on lower rise bars going higher is probably going to feel better and is worth trying.
I'm going to have to look into those zero extension, high rise stems now as well cos I love tinkering!
Very excited by this discussion! I've recently tried the ONOFF 10mm stem mounted backwards with positive results. Jumping felt a bit strange but in the steeps it was way better with noticeably less hand vibration. More experimentation needed in terms of rise, got some 100mm high tensile bolts on the way (if anyone has any cheap spacer options please let me know)! I'm interested in what the optimal negative reach would be too, BMBM is -15mm and Reece/Hattie seem to be running -25mm. For anyone interested in trying, I got the stem for 14,90 € here: POTENCIA ONOFF DH10mm INTEGRADA | Componentes Oferta | Oiartzun Bike
Mondraker were doing this back in 2012 btw.
www.bikeradar.com
Exclusive: Mondraker unveil radical new 'centre stem' | BikeRadar
Downhill/moto style handing for all-mountain bikes
www.bikeradar.com
Sort of yes, they also had really short CS length and low stack thoughMondraker were doing this back in 2012 btw.
Exclusive: Mondraker unveil radical new 'centre stem' | BikeRadar
Downhill/moto style handing for all-mountain bikes
I was watching this last year. They crowd funded the first drop but I'm not sure if they're planning on making more (currently they're sold out).
Creature De-Reacher MTB Stem -
Creature De-Reacher MTB Stem -
Rando_12345
E*POWAH Master
Big question for me is whether the improvement comes from the lower reach or the massive stack. But mostly, wouldn't going full Dak Norton with a 75mm bar achieve most of the stem's gains + the ability to tune reach via bar roll + more compliance?
Note also that probably the fastest man on earth, Jackson Goldstone, rolls his bars way too forward, which goes against the reverse reach theory.
Anyway, unfortunately no convenient way for me to test this: My bar height is tuned to the millimeter to allow my bike to be loaded into my van, can't add even a 5mm spacer without ruining my boot ceiling (further)...
Note also that probably the fastest man on earth, Jackson Goldstone, rolls his bars way too forward, which goes against the reverse reach theory.
Anyway, unfortunately no convenient way for me to test this: My bar height is tuned to the millimeter to allow my bike to be loaded into my van, can't add even a 5mm spacer without ruining my boot ceiling (further)...
Hmm, was going to ask @Rob Rides EMTB , do you think the improvement comes from the higher bars or from having the bars effectively behind the fork crown? I was wondering the same thing when I was watching Reece's social media stuff. I think he's inferring that it's mostly having the bars behind the crown but all those spacers hint that the height gain is desired as well.
I've never tested this but I have played with high bars and done the 30mm stems and for me, I lost all front end traction and would have to have much longer CS to try and make this work, like 460ish I'd guess. I'm sure I could get it to work but I would likley need 1 size, maybe 2 sizes up on bike size, plus way longer Chainstays. So even if the bike works well like this, it's going to be a much larger bike overall.
Also I don't think it's exactly comparable to an MX bike. First, MX bars are pretty low and nearly straight so they don't sweep way back. Secondly fork offset is typically about 22mm, not 44mm like on a MTB. Thirdly if set up correctly, even after bar sweep, the bar ends should not be behind the inline of the fork. I do agree that on a MTB the bar should be aligned with the fork angle, but not a dirt bike. Because when you huck big on an MX bike your weight comes nearly straight down over the front end so that's the angle you want the bars at for the most absorption. But importantly, MX bikes turn on the throttle with very light front ends and really don't depend on front wheel traction the same way a pedal bike (or e-bike) does.
Also I don't think it's exactly comparable to an MX bike. First, MX bars are pretty low and nearly straight so they don't sweep way back. Secondly fork offset is typically about 22mm, not 44mm like on a MTB. Thirdly if set up correctly, even after bar sweep, the bar ends should not be behind the inline of the fork. I do agree that on a MTB the bar should be aligned with the fork angle, but not a dirt bike. Because when you huck big on an MX bike your weight comes nearly straight down over the front end so that's the angle you want the bars at for the most absorption. But importantly, MX bikes turn on the throttle with very light front ends and really don't depend on front wheel traction the same way a pedal bike (or e-bike) does.
This is bit of a TL / DR question but I did try and read everything, and have watched Reece's video with great interest...
Can you climb with it? Even with long CS, that looks a lot like wheelie city on any kind of rise, let alone the kind of steep technical climbs that are possible on an eeb.
Interested in thoughts on that in addition to the along/down performance.
Can you climb with it? Even with long CS, that looks a lot like wheelie city on any kind of rise, let alone the kind of steep technical climbs that are possible on an eeb.
Interested in thoughts on that in addition to the along/down performance.
D
Deleted member 37410
Guest
All you theorycrafters should go out and ride it and see. But you probably need a bike with the right geo, my Kenevo has massive reach and long stays
I'm tempted to just reverse my existing 32mm stem and try that (running single crown 38s so non of the DH/dual crown stems are relevant to me). It's not like it's a big job and totally reversible if it's crap. I would be a bit concerned about the reduction in reach but it would be interesting to at least try it.
You're gonna lose quite a bit of stack doing that with a regular stem unless you have enough steerer left to add a bunch of spacers or a high rise bar.
Yeah, I'm not thinking of doing it permanently, just as an experiment to see if I want to go any further with the concept (that won't involve buying any new bits). I'm sure it'd provide some hilarity/entertainment with my riding buddies as well!
BeMoreBikes
New Member
- Mar 4, 2026
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Hey everyone, I’m Bronson from Be More Bikes and I just made an account since I noticed this thread. I’m the inventor of the RR (Raised Reversed) mtb stem and geo philosophy that more and more riders are experimenting with. Reece, Hattie, and Stan from the AON racing team are all working with me using my Raised up with a tuned -15mm Reversed offset stem geo developing my concept for DH and I’ve got prototype Direct Mounts coming soon for them too.
Let me know any questions you have about this.BeMoreBikes
New Member
- Mar 4, 2026
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The Raised height combines with the Reversed offset to account for the change in reach. With the more upright body position, you don’t need to account for as much horizontal torso length in the cockpit, and as such can use a much shorter reach. The distance feet to hands aka RAD is kept about the same typically to a bit longer, just at a more upright angle. You can and arguably should still run your bars rolled about inline with the fork, this doesn’t change that necessarily. Let me know if you have further questions.
BeMoreBikes
New Member
- Mar 4, 2026
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I’ve had many of my customers get a PR first ride without even trying, and then continue to beat those PRs as they get used to it and their bike dialed in for it. With the RR stem, everything tends to feel calmer, so you go faster without really realizing. That calm feeling doesn’t always feel as fast even though it is faster, so if you want to reach the point of feeling fast with it, you’ll just go even faster.
BeMoreBikes
New Member
- Mar 4, 2026
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I pinged you on PB actually. If you fancy a fast young DHer other than Stan to give it a try (Atherton A200) feel free to shout mate.