Un-Official Clydesdale Thread

I was obviously over the max permitted weight when I bought my Powerfly and the LBS didn't say a word. In fact, I didn't even realise there was a max combined weight for quite some time after buying the bike. I had two rear wheels replaced under warranty with no problems at all. The first was for micro fractures around some of the spoke holes and the second was a snapped axle. Then cracks were found in the lower shock mounting and the LBS dealt with the warranty with no issues.
I was probably borderline when I picked up my Rail and again, the LBS said nothing about the max combined weight.

I'm now under 90KG, so it's not an issue for me any more.
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
More like 3/4 and aiming for 2/3.
 
Jeffsy29 said:
So for those of you riding Turbo Levo with body weights of over 105kg/230lbs, you're out of specifications for Specialized. Permitted Payload (rider+gear). Max total = 130 kg.

There are more than one of you for sure! Did you check with your local LBS about your weight beforehand? Are you at all concerned about warranty issues if you get any frame/parts failures?
In reality, I think fork and parts specs are higher than the bike mfg. and wheels tend to be the weakest link. I intend to get a custom 36-spoke rear-wheel built when I take ownership of whatever I buy. But still, I don't want to end up with a fancy carbon frame doorstop if I get an ultra-rare frame failure because I'm too heavy.

Right now, it seems the YT Decoy29 is the way to go since Max weight is within spec for me. But would be good to have a LBS option if Specialized (or the shop) will stand behind the mgf. warranty despite my weight.
Click to expand...
I expect a lot of weight limits for bikes are well below actual loads that will cause problems.
I weigh 125kg and have been riding an XL Levo for 18months. No issues at all with the LBS and warranty claims (noisy motor, dud charger, worn out drive belt). Also no problems with the factory 28 spoke wheels - running tubeless with Cushcore and Blck Dmnd tyrres I've had one flat in nearly 4000km. I'm a middle of the pack rider downhill and not jumping etc, only thing I go through a lot is brake pads! I expect the Trek Rail would be good as gold as well, very solid bikes.
 
Be interesting to know how the OEM‘s calculate max weight, it might be a FEA of the frame or some sort of real life stress / proof test? Or maybe the max strength of the weakest component. I’m sure that the max weights given will have a large safety factor in to cover any risk.

Anyway, diet and training starts next week, can’t cope with the saddle sores.
 
I'd love to find someone local (DC/MDVA) with a YT Decoy, if just for a short parking lot ride. I've, as yet, not ridden anything with a Shimano drive.

I've had enough bikes over the years to be able to extrapolate how some short testing might equate to my overall riding needs. I don't need an all day test out on a trail.

The Brose on the Levo had a lot of pull but it came on kind of unexpectedly. I outright disliked the R&M Bosch/Rohloff setup. The Haibike Bosch was loud and I could feel the drivetrain drag. The Yamaha setup on the Haibike was pretty nice, but the LBS only had a medium frame in stock.

My riding will be a lot less strenuous than I think a lot of riders here put their bikes through!

I have broken saddles in the past, but I suspect modern dropper posts would have helped me avoid it. In the past I've broken chains, but the knees I have today aren't likely to be able to crank as much torque as back in those days. Forks have bent, but that was only during accidents. I've had amazing luck with spokes. Though I have always ridden in a 'keep it fast, keep it smooth, keep traction' fashion, as slamming around just wastes energy. And when you're a big guy you don't wanna be working harder than necessary!

When you're young, and getting hurt means pain 'for a while'.... when you're older it often means 'from now on'. So I guess I'm aiming for a less 'intense' experience than most here?
 
RedTed said:
...can’t cope with the saddle sores.
Click to expand...
Heh, tried Bag Balm? It's worked wonders for me when long rides took their toll.
bb_original_1oz_2pk_1_370x.jpg
 
RedTed said:
Bag Balm, very aptly named!
Click to expand...
The secret is apply enough so it squishes when you get back on the seat. I swear by it, I've had situations where a ride turned into feeling like I'd put a lit charcoal briquette in my shorts, and an overnight LIBERAL application of Bag Balm made it possible to ride again the next day. That and shorts with the chamois liners.
 
I don't think the shop actually added much air to that rear shock @wkearney99 , sometimes I think they just get lazy and tired of pumping. For comparison, I am on a 2020 Levo Comp, weight 260lbs, (but ride naked so I'm not over the weight limit) and can't bottom my rear shock when set to 30% sag. My gut feeling, although I have no expertise to back this up, is that at high pressures you end up needing a more linear shock/fork as both my front and rear suspension with 25%f/30%r sag don't bottom out when I do say a 3' drop to flat, which isn't going big, but I would have thought would have at least used all of my travel, but I end up with about an inch unused at both ends. I'm going to see if there are any tokens I can remove, if not have to find a higher volume shock, or a reallllllly stiff coil.
 
I think you're correct. I've since had a chance to try both a Levo SL and a Levo Comp, both properly adjusted. The Comp was nearly perfect. The SL lacked the same amount of torque that the Comp provided. That and the weight savings of the SL, well, that's wasted given my "current" body weight. heh.

The downside is, of course, there's zero availability of a Turbo Levo Comp anywhere right now, and no forecast on production of new ones.
 
In Colorado I think you can still find Large and smaller by calling around to different shops, but XL's are sold out. Not sure if that helps you in your area, but when looking for an XL I was told they were all sold out and no more could be had, but the 5th bike shop I called had one in stock, so if you really want one, might be worth making some phone calls and expanding your search area.
 
I found a large 2020 (at Spokes Etc, in Arlington) after scouring two dozen shops in my area. Found it and was about to buy it when one of the other sales reps said "have you tried the XL?". And they HAD one. Rode the L and then the XL, back-to-back and there's just a wee bit more 'space' for me on the XL. Otherwise there were NO other L or XL Comp models anywhere in the DC/MD/VA area (and none available to order from Specialized).

So now I'm the owner of a new matte black XL 2020 Turbo Levo Comp. Only taken a few suburban rides with it, but it's providing exactly what I expected from it.
 
Have to say the handgrips suck though. Got some Ergon's on order.

That and a new saddle. The factory one's not awful but I know there's better to be had.
 
Konanige said:
104 kg here, Check out EMBN video on YouTube they did a comparison between a 90 kg rider and a lightweight young lady and the difference in range was marginal!
Click to expand...
Yeah, it seemed a bit too marginal!
 
Hi,
New to this forum, at 280 lbs, I think I'm part of the clydesdale club. I'm also quite new to emtb world. I bought a ktm macina action 292 2 years ago to be more active and I discovered the joys of mtb. With a hardtail with 100mm travel fork. It's already fun, but not easy to ride in the mountains. That's why I bought a yt decoy pro 29 and wait for it to be shipped at my place. I'm so excited.
I just have concerns about the rear shock, it comes with a fox float dpx2 and I would like to know if anyone of you have any suggestions on how to set the shock up or if you know any thread about this particular shock.
Thanks for your replies.
 
Jeffsy29 said:
So for those of you riding Turbo Levo with body weights of over 105kg/230lbs, you're out of specifications for Specialized. Permitted Payload (rider+gear). Max total = 130 kg.

There are more than one of you for sure! Did you check with your local LBS about your weight beforehand? Are you at all concerned about warranty issues if you get any frame/parts failures?
In reality, I think fork and parts specs are higher than the bike mfg. and wheels tend to be the weakest link. I intend to get a custom 36-spoke rear-wheel built when I take ownership of whatever I buy. But still, I don't want to end up with a fancy carbon frame doorstop if I get an ultra-rare frame failure because I'm too heavy.

Right now, it seems the YT Decoy29 is the way to go since Max weight is within spec for me. But would be good to have a LBS option if Specialized (or the shop) will stand behind the mgf. warranty despite my weight.
Click to expand...
Permitted payload doesn't include the bike, so if you had a lets say 5kg pack theres room for 125kg of rider and clothing!
 
@Yami - YT provides the Fox DPX2 setup instructions in the shipment (in German). The English portion doesn’t include the details of PSI per weight but it’s easily found on Fox’s website. I use approximately psi = body weight for 25-30% sag. I’m still getting pedal strikes using this baseline even with flip chip in “high”. I tend to run the DPX2 in the middle position (trail?) for additional compression resistance. Not sure if I need to go higher even in psi. I had a pedal strike going at speed and went down hard and tore my rotator cuff. Maybe it’s just technique but I find myself pedaling a lot more under power than on my analog bike.
 
Jeffsy29 said:
@Yami - YT provides the Fox DPX2 setup instructions in the shipment (in German). The English portion doesn’t include the details of PSI per weight but it’s easily found on Fox’s website. I use approximately psi = body weight for 25-30% sag. I’m still getting pedal strikes using this baseline even with flip chip in “high”. I tend to run the DPX2 in the middle position (trail?) for additional compression resistance. Not sure if I need to go higher even in psi. I had a pedal strike going at speed and went down hard and tore my rotator cuff. Maybe it’s just technique but I find myself pedaling a lot more under power than on my analog bike.
Click to expand...
I've heard about starting with weight in lbs = psi to start to adjust the shock. Are pedal strikes a problem of the psi in the shock or is it more about fine tuning the compression and rebound ? It seems that higher to 280 psi on the dpx2, fox recommend to close completely the rebound.
 
Yami said:
I've heard about starting with weight in lbs = psi to start to adjust the shock. Are pedal strikes a problem of the psi in the shock or is it more about fine tuning the compression and rebound ? It seems that higher to 280 psi on the dpx2, fox recommend to close completely the rebound.
Click to expand...

@Yami Pedal strikes can be from a lot of things. But to minimize them, you want to bring your BB up as much as you can while maintaining proper stability and damping. High flip chip and proper sag settings are critical. I don’t think damping will affect pedal strikes too much unless you’re on extremes (packing of suspension over bumps or pogo-ing from under damping).

I’m 260 naked and tend to run 2-3 clicks from full closed rebound damping. Of all the explanations of tuning I prefer this guy’s Empirical approach of evaluating baseline damping by riding off a curb and adjusting to damp to 1 oscillation maximum.

 
@Yami - I just realized that the youtube above is already posted here. If you've not seen this sticky page it's a good resource:
www.emtbforums.com

Suspension set-up guides and info

@Rob Hancill There are a lot of threads on the forum asking questions about suspension set-up. I think it would be good to sticky a guide to suspension set-up for all users to easily find. @steve_sordy just posted an excellent and fairly thorough PDF guide to suspension set up in the commencal...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com
 
Hi guys,
I am the new guy here. I registered in last year but I never used the website. I just purchase a Trek rail 9.8 last Saturday and for some reason I could not setup the shock correctly. This is my 3rd eBike. I just found this forum and as I am 260lbs I guess I am considered another Clydesdale. The video Jeffsy29 posted will help.

cheers
Vic
 
Delgadovm said:
Hi guys,
I am the new guy here. I registered in last year but I never used the website. I just purchase a Trek rail 9.8 last Saturday and for some reason I could not setup the shock correctly. This is my 3rd eBike. I just found this forum and as I am 260lbs I guess I am considered another Clydesdale. The video Jeffsy29 posted will help.

cheers
Vic
Click to expand...
@Delgadovm - I'm right about the same as you weight-wise. Congrats on the Rail! I didn't buy the Rail because of some of the max rider weight specs I was seeing but I'm being cautious. I'm sure you'll love it.

Good luck w/ the shock tuning. I've definitely found these videos on the sticky to be helpful: Suspension set-up guides and info - EMTB Forums
 
I wanted to chime back in and share another update. I broke the frame on my Meta Power recently. I think it was more of a manufacturing issue than a design or engineering problem. A crack developed right a the base of the upper seat tube weld. Here's the thread if you are interested. Broken Frame: 2018 Meta Power - EMTB Forums
 
I received my YT Decoy pro 29 2 weeks ago, what an absolute beast. I have tried it in woods near my place and it's very playful on dirt, roots and rocks, once I point it downhill, I can clearly feel it is made for that purpose. I absolutely love it. On saturday I will try mountain trails for the first time with it.
In terms of protection gears I was wondering if you guys also struggle to find something that fits you. I've bought o'neal knee and elbow pads, it's tight and not very comfortable on long rides, but there were the only one I found with big size. I would also like to find a back and chest jacket, but with my 280lbs, it's really hard to find a brand with big sizes. Do you have any recommendations? I live in Switzerland and every cycling gears size so small here.
 
Can any fellow "super Clydes" recommend me on wheels? The e13 LG1s that came with my range cracked around the spoke holes after about 1000km of normal low-impact riding, and the Stan's flow I had as a spare to keep me going is okay, but im basically having to get the rear wheel retrued every month or so. Is there a particular wheel set that you guys have any positive experiences with?
 
EX511 rims are pretty strong without being hugely heavy or expensive.
 
Doomanic said:
EX511 rims are pretty strong without being hugely heavy or expensive.
Click to expand...

Believe it or not I do have an EX511 on my non-ebike (the one the Flow S1 came off), but on the front after I collided with a car and taco'd the front, thanks for the recommendation. I got the LG1 replaced under warranty, with the LG1+, which is allegedly stronger. I'll see what happens over the next few hundred kms and if I need to get it replaced again, I'll probably build a new wheel from scratch with a better hub

I was considering the FR560 too, because I would rather get eyelet rims, and freeride rims are going to handle heavy hits better than an enduro rim
 
Last edited:
E13 wheels =
Shite hubs with poor design and poor sealing.
low spoke count and too light/narrow guage spokes for application (causes excessive flex/stretch under high load aplication)
Fucking stupid aluminium nipples (they WILL seize/corrode and cause issues with fatigue/rounding over time)
and weak rims. (E13 LG1 is only Carbon rim I've ever had to replace because it BENT with no surface damage rather than cracked/damaged)
They really are not a suitable choice for hard use by a heavy rider on a heavy bike

If you're heavy. Get yourself a reliable hub and strong alloy rim. and get it built 3X by a good wheel builder with suitable spokes minimum 32h count (36h on the rear would be even better but those are increasingly harder to findt these days)
 
Gary said:
E13 wheels =
Shite hubs with poor design and poor sealing.
low spoke count and too narrow guage spokes for application
Fucking stupid aluminium nipples
and weak rims.
They really are not a suitable choice for hard use by a heavy rider on a heavy bike

If you're heavy. Get yourself a reliable hub and strong alloy rim. and get it built 3X by a good wheel builder with suitable spokes minimum 32h count (36h on the rear would be even better but those are increasingly harder to findt these days)
Click to expand...

Luckily the wheel is a norco special, so 32h, steel 2.3mm spokes and steel nipples, and a shimano hub.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,893
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top