Trek Rail upgrades, what have you done?

Quite a few, as per usual for me & bikes it seems. I ended up with a 9.7 as it’s all I can get from the shop I race for. Essentially I’ll end up with just the frame. Planned build starting Tuesday is:

9.7 frame.
Ohlins TTX Coil
Ohlins RXF36 M2 fork
DT Swiss XM/EX1501 combo wheelset
X01 drivetrain
G2 Ultimates/Code Calipers
BikeYoke Revive dropper
Joystick bars & stem

most of the parts I have already as spares from other builds.
 
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Just got it rebuilt after painting. New Minions mmmmmm. ODI rogues, WTB saddle, motor update. Coming this week One up carbon bars & composite pedals - it's all about comfort.
 
Djlcater said:
Rail 5 Large

Invisarame
SE5 Tyres
Rimpact
Upgrade to Yari Fork (2021 Seal head upgrade Kit on order)
Line Carbon wheels with 108 upgrade
slx brakes
Shimano SM-RT86 rotors
85Nm update
SDG Bel air Ti rail saddle
RSP front Guard
Click to expand...
Arent the Shimano SM-RT86 rotors thinner? I mean that metal outer layers, because inside is aluminium for heatpipe.
 
PetrD said:
Arent the Shimano SM-RT86 rotors thinner? I mean that metal outer layers, because inside is aluminium for heatpipe.
Click to expand...
If you wear them down to expose the aluminium you are well and truly below the minimum thickness level of 1.6mm so it's not really a factor.
 
BrentD said:
If you wear them down to expose the aluminium you are well and truly below the minimum thickness level of 1.6mm so it's not really a factor.
Click to expand...
I thought the overall strength of the new drive, so it is a factor. (See an amount of metal in comparsion with a disc without any aluminium or cutting in the middle)
 
I made it lighter tonight, after riding in the pissing rain for 25 miles I figured it needed a clean. I was then messing about and tinkering and dropped some pliers onto the seat tube just above the charge point and put a healthy chip in the paint... ???.
Queue much searching on eBay for touch up paint or a sticker to put over it. I put some clear coat car chip stuff on it to stop it getting worse. Couldn’t find a touch up for the yellow colour on the volt and teal so I’m off to bed in the huff. Anybody got a sticker they want to donate to cover it? Or a decent match for the paint colour?
 
I bought a Rail 9.8 XT as it was basically the only medium Rail I could find! Wasn’t bothered about carbon but the lower weight is welcome.

Upgrades:
2.1rc2 damper
170mm C1 airshaft.
Megneg
Rev grips
Magic Mary front tyre
DD Maxxis DHR2 rear
Hunt Trail wide wheels - total crap rims, made of butter so currently changing the rear to a DT Swiss XM 481 rim (I actually like the Bontrager wheels and the 12 speed on my bike came with the 108pt engagement)
One Up 150mm dropper - the faster return is so much better and essential on an Ebike when you hammer XC uphills faster.
Miranda 160mm cranks. I was hitting the cranks in the low geo setting hence I fitted the 160mm cranks and raised the front with the 170mm airshaft.
Shop did the s/w update.

I’m running Hope pedals and will fit a 40mm Bontrager stem when they’re back in the UK.

The bike is brilliant, so fast and so much fun. Just fitted the. Megneg and 170mm airshaft today so looking forward to the next proper ride later in the week so see/feel the difference.

I’m 5’8” and the medium is perfect. The 150mm dropper is about 20mm proud of the seatclamp so I could possibly go more. I’ve got a couple of KOM’s and PR’s without really trying so it must be betterer than my old Powerfly LT.

Paint job looks lovely but wafer thin (mint sir) and chips easily but, hey, it’s a mountain bike!

Fitting the Megneg was slightly terrifying and because of the yoke at the bottom of the shock not exactly easy to modify and experiment on the trail side for fine tuning.

I went one positive token and two x negative bands. Seems easier on the first 30% then firms up in the middle as promised. Looking forward to trying it properly on drops, g-outs and general trail chatter. Happy to help if you’re wanting to fit one.
I’m 5’8”, 85kg in gear and a fast/aggressive rider.

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Tony.OK said:
Rail 9 Medium
DVO Jade X....not fitted yet, waiting on correct mounting kit
OneUp 180mm dropper
Assegai 2.6 front, DHF 2.6 rear
108t hub pawl upgrade
Latest Bosch 85nm firmware update ?
Lovin this Rail!
Click to expand...

Have you got the Jade fitted? Where did you get your mount kit from in the end?
 
Jamescoughlan said:
I bought a Rail 9.8 XT as it was basically the only medium Rail I could find! Wasn’t bothered about carbon but the lower weight is welcome.

Upgrades:
2.1rc2 damper
170mm C1 airshaft.
Megneg
Rev grips
Magic Mary front tyre
DD Maxxis DHR2 rear
Hunt Trail wide wheels - total crap rims, made of butter so currently changing the rear to a DT Swiss XM 481 rim (I actually like the Bontrager wheels and the 12 speed on my bike came with the 108pt engagement)
One Up 150mm dropper - the faster return is so much better and essential on an Ebike when you hammer XC uphills faster.
Miranda 160mm cranks. I was hitting the cranks in the low geo setting hence I fitted the 160mm cranks and raised the front with the 170mm airshaft.
Shop did the s/w update.

I’m running Hope pedals and will fit a 40mm Bontrager stem when they’re back in the UK.

The bike is brilliant, so fast and so much fun. Just fitted the. Megneg and 170mm airshaft today so looking forward to the next proper ride later in the week so see/feel the difference.

I’m 5’8” and the medium is perfect. The 150mm dropper is about 20mm proud of the seatclamp so I could possibly go more. I’ve got a couple of KOM’s and PR’s without really trying so it must be betterer than my old Powerfly LT.

Paint job looks lovely but wafer thin (mint sir) and chips easily but, hey, it’s a mountain bike!

Fitting the Megneg was slightly terrifying and because of the yoke at the bottom of the shock not exactly easy to modify and experiment on the trail side for fine tuning.

I went one positive token and two x negative bands. Seems easier on the first 30% then firms up in the middle as promised. Looking forward to trying it properly on drops, g-outs and general trail chatter. Happy to help if you’re wanting to fit one.
I’m 5’8”, 85kg in gear and a fast/aggressive rider.

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Click to expand...
Nice set up let me know about the meg as ì was considering it , but wasnt sure to get get a coil , I've upgraded the airshaft to 170 but not the damper is it alot better ?

20200716_190038.jpg
 
Doomanic said:
What was the original damper?
Click to expand...
It was a Charge Damper with only High speed compression adjustment. I had an RC2 in my Yari on my hardtail so I swapped them across. I think the basetune of the RC is different to the RC2 so I wanted some more fine tuning on a bigger, heavier, harder hitting bike.
 
Hi Dano78. Honestly I'm struggling to get the suspension just right on the Rail. I think I need more time to make minor adjustments.
Big hit performance is exceptional, very happy with both ends, it's repeated small, high frequency, tracks I'm struggling to make it comfortable.
It's possible that small, incremental pressure changes have a greater effect with a C1 damper at the front and Megneg rear.
I am desperately looking at coil shocks but the price is so high I can't justify it. If there was £250 coil conversion package I'd be all over it!
 
Tony.OK said:
I'm in NZ, a local company Shockcraft makes a kit that is very over priced. Apparently TF Tuned does them over your side of the world.
Click to expand...
Cheers for that. I'm just putting it all together. What stroke did you fit? Reckon 65mm will work without the chainstays fouling the seat tube?
 
Bike Gorilla said:
Cheers for that. I'm just putting it all together. What stroke did you fit? Reckon 65mm will work without the chainstays fouling the seat tube?
Click to expand...
Stuck with standard 57.5, no troubles with lack of travel.
Just make sure shock reservoir doesn't hit downtube with 65mm.
 
I just fitted a oneup 180mm dropper post which works ok but it seems to take more pressure on the lever for it to work. The lever actually flexes a bit during operation.
Initially I thought it may be the cable so undid the post clamp & slid it out. There was a slight kink in the cable so I pulled the slack back into the battery area to keep the cable from gathering in the seat tube & slid the post back down. I now have excess cable out by the bars so wondering if you guys that have fitted them have cut off the excess?
Also doing a bit of research led me to this lubing vid which looks quite easy
vimeo.com

How to Lubricate your OneUp Components V1 Dropper Post

The whole process should take between 10-15 minutes. Things you'll need are: 15mm Wrench, 2mm Allen Key, Light Grease, (like Slickoleum) Wooden Dowel or a…
vimeo.com vimeo.com
 
Dropper working good now the kink in the cable is gone? Yes I always remove the excess slack, a little bit won't do any harm though. Is the cable head at the post or the lever end (my post is not a OneUp)? Obviously easier to remove the slack from the lever end but not a biggy if you have to do it from the post end, as long as you're able to feed the cable through enough to expose the connector. Mine got caught up on something and I had to take the motor out and route it more carefully, big job for a small job
 
Doug Stampfer said:
I just fitted a oneup 180mm dropper post which works ok but it seems to take more pressure on the lever for it to work. The lever actually flexes a bit during operation.
Initially I thought it may be the cable so undid the post clamp & slid it out. There was a slight kink in the cable so I pulled the slack back into the battery area to keep the cable from gathering in the seat tube & slid the post back down. I now have excess cable out by the bars so wondering if you guys that have fitted them have cut off the excess?
Also doing a bit of research led me to this lubing vid which looks quite easy
vimeo.com

How to Lubricate your OneUp Components V1 Dropper Post

The whole process should take between 10-15 minutes. Things you'll need are: 15mm Wrench, 2mm Allen Key, Light Grease, (like Slickoleum) Wooden Dowel or a…
vimeo.com vimeo.com
Click to expand...
I've noticed the same thing, takes a bit more effort on lever and dropper works better taking some weight off saddle.
Have got one of these on the way to try as the stock lever is a little flimsy... NZ$ 27.69 39%OFF | ZTTO MTB Dropper Post Lever Seatpost Dropper Bike Adjust Seat Post Drop Mechanical Remote Control Lever Universal Shifter Style
a.aliexpress.com

ZTTO MTB Dropper Sattelstütze Hebel Fahrrad Sattelstütze Fernbedienung Einstellbare Griff Lager Mechanische Universal Shifter Stil - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com a.aliexpress.com
 
My bike came with a Race Face Aeffect dropper lever which had a short travel high pull ratio- on/off basically. I found it to be a pita with my long thumbs so I replaced it with a Giant Switch lever $30 from EVO. The Switch is a long travel soft push lever like the Bontrager lever on my Trek and is nicely made.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'll ride it this weekend & then look at getting another lever. I'll take it to the local bike shop to shorten the cable.
The dropper is working ok but bit of lag between pushing the lever & the drop. The pressure it came with was around 200psi so bumped it up to 275.
 
What kind of fenders is it? And what did you have to do to run the kiox cable through the bike?
 
Tony.OK said:
I've noticed the same thing, takes a bit more effort on lever and dropper works better taking some weight off saddle.
Have got one of these on the way to try as the stock lever is a little flimsy... NZ$ 27.69 39%OFF | ZTTO MTB Dropper Post Lever Seatpost Dropper Bike Adjust Seat Post Drop Mechanical Remote Control Lever Universal Shifter Style
a.aliexpress.com

ZTTO MTB Dropper Sattelstütze Hebel Fahrrad Sattelstütze Fernbedienung Einstellbare Griff Lager Mechanische Universal Shifter Stil - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com a.aliexpress.com
Click to expand...
Hey Tony how do you find the lever? Looking at one of these as they seem quite good. The FAQs are quite funny. It looks like I may be able to reverse it & perhaps use it with a finger pull rather than a thumb push. Otherwise I might try the giant switch
 
I had one of those on my Powerfly. Worked well for the price.
 
Tony.OK said:
I'm in NZ, a local company Shockcraft makes a kit that is very over priced. Apparently TF Tuned does them over your side of the world.
Click to expand...
Hey Tony,
Can you link the mounting kit that you bought from shockcraft for the Jade X? Sourcing the mounting hardware is what’s stopping me from getting the Jade X. I have a Rail 7 btw
 
With a Rail 7 you can use the hardware that's on the bike. You just need to either trim down the shock eyelet bushings or shorten the spacers by 1.1mm each.
 
Doomanic said:
With a Rail 7 you can use the hardware that's on the bike. You just need to either trim down the shock eyelet bushings or shorten the spacers by 1.1mm each.
Click to expand...
I would not do that. Dont trim down or cut anything on shock mount. Keep away from using the used eyelet bushings.
I bought new eyelet teflon bushings and RockShox 1/2x1/2-Inch Rear Shock Bushing Tool for pressing them to eyelet. You should be careful because in shock mount there are strong forces and frame can be damaged by grind.
 
PetrD said:
I would not do that. Dont trim down or cut anything on shock mount. Keep away from using the used eyelet bushings.
I bought new eyelet teflon bushings and RockShox 1/2x1/2-Inch Rear Shock Bushing Tool for pressing them to eyelet. You should be careful because in shock mount there are strong forces and frame can be damaged by grind.
Click to expand...
Can you link me to the website where you bought the stuff you needed? Not really keen on trimming or cutting stuff, so would be really helpful if you can link the stuff you used, I’m assuming you installed a DVO jade x as well?
 
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