Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

Will give that a go later. Tried unplugging the ones from the display but they seemed on there so tight I didn’t want to break them!
If the main battery connector is not in the 'locked' position it can vibrate loose and cause that error
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
If the main battery connector is not in the 'locked' position it can vibrate loose and cause that error

Tried battery in and out a couple of times. Will check the display wires later and see if I can get it to go!
 
That would be why lol

IMG_2685.jpeg
 
Hey guys, hope someone can check on their bike and chime in with a dilemma I'm having. Trying to replace the fork on my wife's Fuel EXe 5. I moved the crown race from the stock Rockshox Recon Silver to my old Fox 36. Now I am getting this 2-3 mm gap between the race and lower headset bearing. Aren't they supposed to sit flush? This way the fork can't sit flush with the frame. Is this normal, am I misremembering the original fork having no such gap? Just doesn't seem right for dirt and water to have pretty much direct path to bearing seals. Much thanks for your input.

20250425_173548.jpg



At least the lower bearing sits nicely in lower cup. Upper bearing doesn't even sit flush with it's cup. This is doing my head in o_O .

20250425_174749.jpg
 
Last edited:
It appears you still have the lower crown race on the CSU. You need to remove that I think.

As for the upper, if the bearing is fully in, then it must be the wrong bearing thickness.
 
It's the same bearing that was on the bike before... And the same crown race was moved from one fork to another.
 
It’s not a 1.8 rather than a 1.5 fork?
Fox spec by code says it's a 1.5T. Besides, crown race wouldn't fit if it was a different taper, right?

2019 FACTORY 36 FLOAT 29 160​

Part number: 910-24-113
Description: 2019, 36, K, FLOAT, 29in, F-S, 160, Grip 2, HSC, LSC, HSR, LSR, Matte Blk, No Logo, 15QRx110, 1.5 T, 44mm Rake, OE

I'm coming to the conclusion that it's normal and supposed to look like that :sleep:
20250425_195803.jpg
 
Have now burned through a Maxxis DHR and DHF (the stickier of the two). Been running 2.6 front 2.5 rear as I was sharing the wheels with my hardtail. Thinking of a 2.4 now having read posts on here.

But I fancy a more trail style tyre now that isn't so draggy. Not xc or anything but something that can do a bit of enduro but also trail duty for days on the moors etc. Any recommendations?
 
Have now burned through a Maxxis DHR and DHF (the stickier of the two).
Any recommendations?
If you are already on EXO+ / Maxterra casing/compound, then I'd go to different tires.

If you are on Double-down / maxxGrip then I'd switch to the lighter faster casing/compound option (EXO+ / Maxterra) - it's a world of difference.
 
If you are already on EXO+ / Maxterra casing/compound, then I'd go to different tires.

If you are on Double-down / maxxGrip then I'd switch to the lighter faster casing/compound option (EXO+ / Maxterra) - it's a world of difference.
That's a very good point and might be the easiest answer!👏
 
Have now burned through a Maxxis DHR and DHF (the stickier of the two). Been running 2.6 front 2.5 rear as I was sharing the wheels with my hardtail. Thinking of a 2.4 now having read posts on here.

But I fancy a more trail style tyre now that isn't so draggy. Not xc or anything but something that can do a bit of enduro but also trail duty for days on the moors etc. Any recommendations?

Continental Kryptotal.
 
Schwalbe MM radial if you like plush, night and day compared to EXO+ Assegai for plushness. Also feel like the grip is better, but more testing needed.
 
Has anybody flown with their EX-e and is there a bag/case you'd recommend to stay under the 50 lbs weight limit (with battery removed)?

I am hoping to fly mine from Boston to Denver, planning to leave main battery at home and take a range extender carry-on. Biggest issue is finding a case + padding setup that stays below 50 lbs (my bike is 39.4 lbs with battery removed). I'm considering checking the frame and wheels separately (2 bags) but most of the cases I see for sale aren't designed for that.

Any experiences or pointers would be highly appreciated.
 
Has anybody flown with their EX-e and is there a bag/case you'd recommend to stay under the 50 lbs weight limit (with battery removed)?

I am hoping to fly mine from Boston to Denver, planning to leave main battery at home and take a range extender carry-on. Biggest issue is finding a case + padding setup that stays below 50 lbs (my bike is 39.4 lbs with battery removed). I'm considering checking the frame and wheels separately (2 bags) but most of the cases I see for sale aren't designed for that.

Any experiences or pointers would be highly appreciated.
Keeping the bike +bag under 50lb is going to be tough, I just used a soft but padded unbranded bike bag I bought years ago, and it comes in around 51 to 52lb.
 
Keeping the bike +bag under 50lb is going to be tough, I just used a soft but padded unbranded bike bag I bought years ago, and it comes in around 51 to 52lb.
I have an Evoc travel bag. But, as well as removing the battery, to get within the weight limit, I remove the pedals, cassette, handlebars, derailleur (AXS), saddle & shock then put all these in my luggage.
 
Has anybody flown with their EX-e and is there a bag/case you'd recommend to stay under the 50 lbs weight limit (with battery removed)?

I am hoping to fly mine from Boston to Denver, planning to leave main battery at home and take a range extender carry-on. Biggest issue is finding a case + padding setup that stays below 50 lbs (my bike is 39.4 lbs with battery removed). I'm considering checking the frame and wheels separately (2 bags) but most of the cases I see for sale aren't designed for that.

Any experiences or pointers would be highly appreciated.
I fly with my Ex-e. I use a bike box. You're welcome
 
I will be installing the new Sram Eagle 90 drivetrain on my Fuel EXe this weekend. I will follow up with my observations afterward. So far it looks good. The price gap with GX T-Type is not huge tho. Mixed feelings about the choice.
 
I will be installing the new Sram Eagle 90 drivetrain on my Fuel EXe this weekend. I will follow up with my observations afterward. So far it looks good. The price gap with GX T-Type is not huge tho. Mixed feelings about the choice.
I’m curious, why did you choose the cable vs wireless?
 
I’m curious, why did you choose the cable vs wireless?
Excellent question, i am not a fan of wireless. Im OK with charging my EXe main battery but i do not want to depend of batteries for shifting. If my bike battery runs dry ill pedal it as is, but no gears .... I also am hoping for faster shifting.
 
Has anyone in the UK come up with a solution to the Lower shock bolt problem that was discussed at some length last year? Our Fuel EXE has just gone over 2000 miles and the lower shock bolt has started to rattle so looking to upgrade as we want to ride the bike for at least another 2000 miles. (y)
 
Has anyone in the UK come up with a solution to the Lower shock bolt problem that was discussed at some length last year? Our Fuel EXE has just gone over 2000 miles and the lower shock bolt has started to rattle so looking to upgrade as we want to ride the bike for at least another 2000 miles. (y)
Trek just gave me a new bike although it was under warranty.
 
Has anyone in the UK come up with a solution to the Lower shock bolt problem that was discussed at some length last year? Our Fuel EXE has just gone over 2000 miles and the lower shock bolt has started to rattle so looking to upgrade as we want to ride the bike for at least another 2000 miles. (y)
If anyone could post a link to the thread, I am struggling with this search engine from my phone. 🙏. I have almost 3k on my bike, no rattle yet and I’d like to keep it that way
 
Has anyone in the UK come up with a solution to the Lower shock bolt problem that was discussed at some length last year? Our Fuel EXE has just gone over 2000 miles and the lower shock bolt has started to rattle so looking to upgrade as we want to ride the bike for at least another 2000 miles. (y)
 
Excellent question, i am not a fan of wireless. Im OK with charging my EXe main battery but i do not want to depend of batteries for shifting. If my bike battery runs dry ill pedal it as is, but no gears .... I also am hoping for faster shifting.
Follow up for my Sram Eagle 90 kit

All went well. The kit fits super with no modifications required.

The chainring i used for this is the SRAM XX TQ T-Type 32t chainring.

Worn Shimano XT kt felt like shit. Upgrading to this has improved by a lot drivetrain noises and load shifting.

The shifting is accurate and almost as fast as the Shimano XT. Remember that the SRAM 90 shifter for eBikes is single clicks. So only one click in both direction is possible at the time. This dosen't feel like a downgrade from XT as the precision and noise where improved.

A1
 
If anyone could post a link to the thread, I am struggling with this search engine from my phone. 🙏. I have almost 3k on my bike, no rattle yet and I’d like to keep it that way
Yes I'm just getting across this too - once you have any movement in it it will have damaged the shock bushings (replaceable) and the frame (yikes) so im jumping on this on my wife's new one - looks like m8 SHCS by 80mm fortunately has the right grip length (will need to check on assembly) so that will resolve the threads eating the frame on one side issue so I'm doing that now while waiting for Pinner to do another run with the correct bolt diameter. I was going to rail against whatever engineer specified using a gutter bolt in double shear on a suspension fitting but we all know marketing rules. Wont be rustproof but lesser of two evils. This is the link to the entry earlier in this thread about the correct solution. Fuel EXe - Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

Screenshot 2025-05-08 at 13.09.08.png
 
I'm currently piecing together a new drivetrain as mine is getting worn and due for replacement.
I'm in camp Shimano and looking to move from the one piece chainring to a spider and easily replaceable 104bcd chainring. The stock one piece chainring chainline is 55mm.

This FSA spider is available locally. I see it has 52mm chainline, whereas the ones that come on other models are using a 55mm (part No. W0190).
Wondering if the one available locally will work OK, and fit in the chainguide that comes on the exe. Will I need a chainring with an offset to get it back to 55mm, or is the offset accounted for in the spider instead of the chainring with this configuration?

All a bit confusing for me, so hoping to get a clear answer here. Thanks in advance!

Screenshot 2025-05-09 at 10.26.59 AM.png
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,738
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top