SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)

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temon10 said:
why dont M510 FC 2.0 ? For me i'ts better and all parameter tuneable via Besst Pro and the power not far from M600.
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I have my M600 LCES04, so another M600 would act as a spare if one went down. That way, I always have a ride available.

I was going to buy a spare M820 later, just as a backup. If I stayed with the CEF50.🍻
 
I was talking to TC about how cool it is to be part of a community of folks (you!) that build their own bikes from scratch. How many people in the world do that?
 
mike_kelly said:
I was talking to TC about how cool it is to be part of a community of folks (you!) that build their own bikes from scratch. How many people in the world do that?
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Totally agree, like I said earlier I was part of the hackintosh computer world and it feels similar. At least the problem is the same. “Damn these Mac’s/e-bikes are expensive there’s gotta be another less expensive way”.
 
Myalteregohamish said:
Totally agree, like I said earlier I was part of the hackintosh computer world and it feels similar. At least the problem is the same. “Damn these Mac’s/e-bikes are expensive there’s gotta be another less expensive way”.
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Me too. But too hard to keep them updated after the hack. The difference is our vendor wants us to succeed!
 
Well, I'm waiting for my frame to arrive, already shipped and coming by air so hope to have it before end of next week (so I can do an insane trip to the mountains to test it :D)

Also, digging deeper on coil fitting, I believe this one could possibly be a good candidate based on the really long piece that has the lower eyelet, that would keep the coil starting at a taller point hence less possible contact with the frame:

DB Kitsuma G1 Coil

Kitsuma is a strong, gravity-first shock that allows you to go faster thanks to a more personalized tune. With the increased ground-tracking sensitivity of a coil spring and the most damper oil of our entire shock family, it offers amazing downhill performance and maximum possible grip...
canecreek.com

Based on the suspension not being super progressive, I'll stick with air for now, probably the Triair with 52.5 stroke to achieve 160r/160f
 
stuff said:
Well, I'm waiting for my frame to arrive, already shipped and coming by air so hope to have it before end of next week (so I can do an insane trip to the mountains to test it :D)

Also, digging deeper on coil fitting, I believe this one could possibly be a good candidate based on the really long piece that has the lower eyelet, that would keep the coil starting at a taller point hence less possible contact with the frame:

DB Kitsuma G1 Coil

Kitsuma is a strong, gravity-first shock that allows you to go faster thanks to a more personalized tune. With the increased ground-tracking sensitivity of a coil spring and the most damper oil of our entire shock family, it offers amazing downhill performance and maximum possible grip...
canecreek.com

Based on the suspension not being super progressive, I'll stick with air for now, probably the Triair with 52.5 stroke to achieve 160r/160f
Click to expand...
As the head scout we are depending on your report!!
 
stuff said:
Well, I'm waiting for my frame to arrive, already shipped and coming by air so hope to have it before end of next week (so I can do an insane trip to the mountains to test it :D)

Also, digging deeper on coil fitting, I believe this one could possibly be a good candidate based on the really long piece that has the lower eyelet, that would keep the coil starting at a taller point hence less possible contact with the frame:

DB Kitsuma G1 Coil

Kitsuma is a strong, gravity-first shock that allows you to go faster thanks to a more personalized tune. With the increased ground-tracking sensitivity of a coil spring and the most damper oil of our entire shock family, it offers amazing downhill performance and maximum possible grip...
canecreek.com

Based on the suspension not being super progressive, I'll stick with air for now, probably the Triair with 52.5 stroke to achieve 160r/160f
Click to expand...
This shock is awesome! You can buy a progressive spring from Cane Creek for this one, like I use with my E10: 450-550 lbs. Valt Progressive Spring.
 
If anybodey is interested, I asked Linda for more information on 720Wh battery, and recieved this product specification:

It specifies what cells are used, at what voltages BMS cuts in, max discharge current ,....

CEF50_720wh_datasheet_1.jpgCEF50_720wh_datasheet_2.jpgCEF50_720wh_datasheet_3.jpgCEF50_720wh_datasheet_4.jpg
 
Hi everyone. My first post.

I've been following this thread very closely and have just joined the forum because of it.
This will be my first DIY emtb mainly because I didn't like any specs and geo until now.

I wasn't planning on installing a coil shock, but I hate having the option taken away from me.
The Kitsuma coil is also about 54mm diameter, so I wouldn't get my hopes up.

I reckon our best bet is to install the coil shock upside down. the head of the shock is much thinner than the coil diameter and it also extends quite a long way down the shock before the coil starts. Maybe someone already talking to Linda about this can ask her to try installing upside down shock. the only question then will the piggy back will clear the downtube when fully compressed.
 
I too wanted to run a coil. and was thinking of just running the dbcoil inline
i really dont think it will work upside down.
But looking at this side profile.
Maybe it could.


p5pb13803603.jpg

Dhx might also work.



Screenshot 2023-04-05 105456.jpg

It's to close of my liking. But for the sales of the frame. They should be finding a solution. Or we should get a discount for doing there r&d 😜
 
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Stephen B said:
Same here, Jean told me that my frame should be painted on the 7th but they are waiting on motors.
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my order has frame and motor ready to go... waiting on 410wh battery from Bafang. They can't give me an ETA
 
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The BMS is in charge to equilibrate the cells.

The most important to remembre is that is dangerous to connect 2 battery in // (alike you done with your car battery). an range extender need an module who manage the 2 battery and connect only one in use
 
I ordered mine with the 410wh battery with the expectation of eventfully adding a couple hundred watt hour range extender for the longer rides. I don't have any experience but I hope that the lighter 410wh battery would cover 95% or so of my rides. I just can't imagine that a 50+ pound full fat bike is very nimble.

Stephen
 
@mike_kelly, great writeup!

Regarding the extenders, my understanding of Lindas message is, that Bafang is prepearing 36V and 43V versions. But they are nor ready yet:
1680729955418.png
 
410wh BTF014 batteries. seems like Bafang is modifing the mounting holes and cables.
This is probably one of the reasons why it is delayed.

Linda said no problem, they don't mount the battery directly to the frame.
I'm guessing they use some sort of adapter plate.

I pulled this image off the LCE930 thread.

btf014.jpg
 
clix said:
@mike_kelly, great writeup!

Regarding the extenders, my understanding of Lindas message is, that Bafang is prepearing 36V and 43V versions. But they are nor ready yet:
View attachment 110958
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Don't confuse range extending external batteries, light water bottle cage batteries, with Battery Management devices that make it possible to add an external battery on a bike that already has an internal battery.
This is an external bottle battery:
BottleBat.jpg



This is an Extender management device:

615jvqs4LYL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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mike_kelly said:
TC wrote me "So bottom line need to be able to stuff the extender splitter into the downtube and a plug that can pulled out of frame. Need to make a home for the wire then?"

I though everyone would like to know the answer so this is what I said:

I am still researching because most of the extender switches have a pretty big aluminum case to dump heat. I am also looking at Bottle Batteries that have a switch built in and allows it to switch between charging and outputting power. But the first question is how does the internal battery connect with the motor and the charge port? Is the charge port wire just barely big enough size to handle a 2-5 amp charging current? So adding a external battery would not work because the 60 amps the motor would draw would melt the wires? I am going to study the options but need to see how the CEF50 internal battery is connected and if the charge port is designed for an external battery with big enough wires and plug.
If there is enough room inside we can fix it to work our way and it would be really slick to have an internal extender switch so the internal battery connects to the switch and also the external port. But then we are subject to another point of failure if the cheap switch goes south and you have to take everything apart to fix it.
Might be better to replace the charge port with a bigger heaver duty four prong connector with the internal battery connecting to the charge port on two of the pins and then have an external extender and the output of the extender goes back in through the bigger four pin charge port to the motor. So essentially bring the internal battery connector outside to the external extender switch. we would also have to change the plug on the wall charger to match the new 4 prong.

There are other solutions too but we can't just hook up and external battery if the stock charging port has wires that are small and only designed to low amperage charge the internal battery and not made to handle the current of an external battery supplying the motor.
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I measured the temperature of my homemade battery 21700. The temperature is only 25 degrees. It was 8 degrees outside. The battery was insulated with foam.
 
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