SZZS CEF69 Build with New Bafang M510 3.0 version

[Triman]

It's new bike day!

CEF69 (m510 non-RS version, we'limited to 250W in europe and the RS version wasn't available at the time of purchase).
I ordered the frame mid-march

The frame is a size small.
Fork: Rockshox Psylo 160mm
Rear shock: Rockshox Select +
Brakes: IIIPro E4
Transmission: Sram eagle GX
Wheels: 29'' ZTTO aluminium with DT swiss clone hubs

The bike weights 22.3kgs with pedals and sealant (running tubeless).

 

[Wallyza]

Once again reminding the group here that a 2.6" 27.5 has the same radius as a 2.35" 29er so unless you are planning on running a super small 27.5, there is absolutely no need to buy off more travel or z height.

Yes, but no thanks. The whole point is to have the rear smaller in diameter.

 

[curufinwe_wins]

Yes, but no thanks. The whole point is to have the rear smaller in diameter.

Lol, except for a 190mm travel bike, a 2.6" wheel is already small. You really running less than 2.4x27.5 out back? Because if you are not, there is nothing to discuss, since the bike works fine for 2.4x29er as is.

I may well love running 2.4x around. I have my wifes bike of this exact frame in size small running 2.4x27.5 in both front and rear, as shown on the images that have been tossed around. It works fine with acceptable ground clearance as is. Mullet would improve that ground clearance by raising the front end.

But I'm an exception, everyone else I know who likes enduro emtbs runs at least 2.6" which I'm then telling you will be more than fine, even with a 27.5 wheel. You can still run 2.6" front and back and get a bigger front with 29er.

 

[Wallyza]

Lol, except for a 190mm travel bike, a 2.6" wheel is already small. You really running less than 2.4x27.5 out back? Because if you are not, there is nothing to discuss, since the bike works fine for 2.4x29er as is.

I may well love running 2.4x around. I have my wifes bike of this exact frame in size small running 2.4x27.5 in both front and rear, as shown on the images that have been tossed around. It works fine with acceptable ground clearance as is. Mullet would improve that ground clearance by raising the front end.

But I'm an exception, everyone else I know who likes enduro emtbs runs at least 2.6" which I'm then telling you will be more than fine, even with a 27.5 wheel. You can still run 2.6" front and back and get a bigger front with 29er.

I had a 27.5x2.3 Butcher rear and a 29x2.5 Assegai up front with 152mm cranks and was hitting pedals on every ride, especially in tech climbs.
Yes, you can run a 2.6 rear but for me it is too squishy (rolls over itself) far too much and you have to up your pressure. All in all not ideal and not what I want. I want the tyre sizes I had. Personal preference is a wonderful thing. If that works for you and you like 2.4 or 2.6 then that's perfect for you. I do not like 2.6, that feels like heading into fatbike territory to me.
But whatever, ride your bike and have a blast on it.

 

[stuff]

Ready to print the 27.5" yoke.
If someone is from EU (even better Spain) and has a CEF69 that wants to try the 3d print to measure the BB height with a 27.5" just let me know and i'll send it to you.

This is only to test, a 3d printed yoke is not usable in real life!! (but if it works then an alu one can built!)

 

[ficorama]

unless you change the geometry at least a little, I don't see the point of the mullet. or at least if you have a flipchip for a shorter chainstay. I had an orbea wild with a mullet link, I felt a very small difference, even imperceptible, the full 29 suited me better. orbea with a mullet link, there is almost no difference in geometry.

 

[curufinwe_wins]

I had a 27.5x2.3 Butcher rear and a 29x2.5 Assegai up front with 152mm cranks and was hitting pedals on every ride, especially in tech climbs.
Yes, you can run a 2.6 rear but for me it is too squishy (rolls over itself) far too much and you have to up your pressure. All in all not ideal and not what I want. I want the tyre sizes I had. Personal preference is a wonderful thing. If that works for you and you like 2.4 or 2.6 then that's perfect for you. I do not like 2.6, that feels like heading into fatbike territory to me.
But whatever, ride your bike and have a blast on it.

2.3 on a 190mm travel bike? But are we being real right now?

That's like running 40s on a trail bike.

I mean yes, you are right, ride what you want, and if you are really pushing small 27.5s I can see why the ground clearance is an issue. I would personally just recommend short stroking at that stage (run 170mm travel in rear with a 2.5mm stroke reduction), but obviously from the very beginning I did note "unless running very small 27.5s" so if thats you, go for it.

 

[lalachill]

oint of the mullet. o

That is what exactly what we're trying to do. Keep the geometry the same in a mullet setup.

It would probably differ and matter more in tech tracks or in jump tracks especially if you have short legs.
Doesn't buzz your ass on the rear wheel on gnarly jumps

 

[ficorama]

That is what exactly what we're trying to do. Keep the geometry the same in a mullet setup.

It would probably differ and matter more in tech tracks or in jump tracks especially if you have short legs.
Doesn't buzz your ass on the rear wheel on gnarly jumps

with orbea i tried it with the same geo. and mullet has no benefit. 29 is better, it goes over obstacles noticeably better. but everyone has their own bike settings and we all have different riding styles.

 

[stuff]

Ready to test

 

[stuff]

If anyone from Spain that has a CEF69 wants to test it, let me know i'll send you the 3d printed yoke piece for free and explain you how to test and measure, if everything's ok the idea is to make them available in aluminum for actual use

 

[Wallyza]

View attachment 187517
Ready to test

What have you modified on this link?

 

[stuff]

What have you modified on this link?

4.5mm longer, hence with a 27.5 wheel it's 13.5mm taller which should keep the BB height only 2mm lower than with 29"

 

[Garfield]

Hey guys, is there any data or stats on frame failures for these? How reliable are they in the long run? Also, what kind of warranty does the manufacturer offer?

 

[stuff]

Hey guys, is there any data or stats on frame failures for these? How reliable are they in the long run? Also, what kind of warranty does the manufacturer offer?

Two year warranty.
I've had 2 CEF50 and never had an issue and I ride proper enduro. If i'm not wrong there was just one failure on a seatstay and was covered by warranty, only shipping costs had to be paid.
Im ordering now 2 CEF69 since the communication and reliability from szzs is top notch in my opinion.

 

[lalachill]

Finally got a proper pic of the bike in the mountains.
One thing to worry is the gap where the mud/rocks gets on the rear of the seatstay.

It'll need some kind cover to avoid debris on the gap.

 

[stuff]

View attachment 187985

Finally got a proper pic of the bike in the mountains.
One thing to worry is the gap where the mud/rocks gets on the rear of the seatstay.

It'll need some kind cover to avoid debris on the gap.

How are you finding it? Good handling? good downhill?

For the cover on the rear seatstay you can check pics in the CEF50 thread, I did one out of an old mtb tube

 

[patdam]

How are you finding it? Good handling? good downhill?

For the cover on the rear seatstay you can check pics in the CEF50 thread, I did one out of an old mtb tube

or a frame protection film (with removing adhesiv where it slides)

 

[lalachill]

How are you finding it? Good handling? good downhill?

For the cover on the rear seatstay you can check pics in the CEF50 thread, I did one out of an old mtb tube

Still a lot to learn about the bike. When I had 29 on the rear, I can feel the long chainstay as the rear kinda slids away from me at times on fast turns. On the mullet, I didn't get that feeling.

E-bikes feel planted because of there weight, same feeling on this one.

I've recently changed to a 180mm zeb and a 50mm stem. Feels different but I'm liking it. Still need more riding time though.
I also have a cheap super deluxe w/ megneg coming. It might feel better in longer downhill.

 

[ficorama]

View attachment 187985

Finally got a proper pic of the bike in the mountains.
One thing to worry is the gap where the mud/rocks gets on the rear of the seatstay.

It'll need some kind cover to avoid debris on the gap.

best diy bike name!

 

[ficorama]

View attachment 187985

Finally got a proper pic of the bike in the mountains.
One thing to worry is the gap where the mud/rocks gets on the rear of the seatstay.

It'll need some kind cover to avoid debris on the gap.

please just for comparison, what is the height of bb? there are 2 information on the forum that are quite different. thanks

 

[lalachill]

please just for comparison, what is the height of bb? there are 2 information on the forum that are quite different. thanks

Here you go.
Mullet with 180mm fork

 

[Garfield]

Гарантия два года.
У меня было два CEF50, и ни разу не было проблем, хотя я езжу на настоящем эндуро. Если я не ошибаюсь, был только один случай поломки задней вилки, и он был покрыт гарантией, пришлось оплатить только стоимость доставки.
Я сейчас заказываю 2 CEF69, так как, на мой взгляд, связь с компанией SZZS и её надёжность на высшем уровне.

Пожалуйста, поймите мою обеспокоенность. Я рассматриваю возможность покупки рамы CEF69. Я крупный мужчина, вешу около 100 кг в экипировке, и планирую ездить в стиле эндуро. Я видел фотографии одного парня, который написал, что после 2 лет активного использования этой рамы на подседельной трубе и верхней трубе переднего треугольника появились трещины.

 

[lalachill]

Пожалуйста, поймите мою обеспокоенность. Я рассматриваю возможность покупки рамы CEF69. Я крупный мужчина, вешу около 100 кг в экипировке, и планирую ездить в стиле эндуро. Я видел фотографии одного парня, который написал, что после 2 лет активного использования этой рамы на подседельной трубе и верхней трубе переднего треугольника появились трещины.

View attachment 188131

I've seen carbon broke on hucks to flats. Or jumping with no proper receiver.
Or you're a heavy hitter, only time will tell until the frame breaks. I think this is true to every frame unless really built think.
If you're heavy guy, I'd stick with an air shock. They have better support than coil and are tuneable by a lot.
Coil tends to bottom out more. Rockshox have HBOs, but i think they can only do much compared to air shocks.

Anyway, good luck!

 

[Garfield]

Я видел, как ломался карбон при прыжках на ровную поверхность. Или при прыжках без надлежащего приемника.
Или вы очень сильный игрок, и только время покажет, пока рама не сломается. Думаю, это справедливо для любой рамы, если только она не сделана очень прочной.
Если вы крупный мужчина, я бы посоветовал вам выбрать пневматический амортизатор. Он обеспечивает лучшую поддержку, чем пружинный, и его можно значительно улучшить с помощью регулировки.
Пружинные амортизаторы чаще пробиваются до упора. У Rockshox есть амортизаторы HBO, но, думаю, они мало на что способны по сравнению с воздушными амортизаторами.

В любом случае, удачи!

Спасибо за совет! На самом деле, я предпочитаю пружинные амортизаторы из-за их чувствительности к мелким неровностям и мягкости хода, а я не часто прыгаю с больших трамплинов. Это определенно заставляет меня задуматься.

 

[lalachill]

Спасибо за совет! На самом деле, я предпочитаю пружинные амортизаторы из-за их чувствительности к мелким неровностям и мягкости хода, а я не часто прыгаю с больших трамплинов. Это определенно заставляет меня задуматься.

Yeah... we all like that small bump sensitivity but that would mean softer coils. But when you're having fun and fast, you'll never when you'll need that bottom out support. try looking at progressive spring if you're dedicated to coil. That would probably more ideal than a linear one. Anyway, you just need to stay away from nasty bottom outs and the frame should be fine.

 

[kaaskopf]

heavy rider here, just have to give my honest opinion after 4 years on these bafangs

engine m510 is powerfull and reliable

coil shock is the way to go
but not all frames handle them

if they are to linear the will bottom out

the reason you dont want a air shock is shock psi is way to high for heavy weight. will be unreliable as you will blast out those seals and you will loose small bump sensitivity

shock reliability has been great for me with marzocchi bomber. damping is also right from factory for heavier coils

im on a e10 for 4 years and its a very robust frame and overbuild (and heavy)
i do regularly bikepark visits and it handles well, it is just heavy

tried a lightcarbon lce004 and that cracked very soon, but yeah it was a much lighter frane

 

[stuff]

Пожалуйста, поймите мою обеспокоенность. Я рассматриваю возможность покупки рамы CEF69. Я крупный мужчина, вешу около 100 кг в экипировке, и планирую ездить в стиле эндуро. Я видел фотографии одного парня, который написал, что после 2 лет активного использования этой рамы на подседельной трубе и верхней трубе переднего треугольника появились трещины.

View attachment 188131

CEF69 isn't even 1 year old. Hard that he's been using it for 2 years, I dont believe it's a cef69

 

[Garfield]

CEF69 isn't even 1 year old. Hard that he's been using it for 2 years, I dont believe it's a cef69

I'm not sure, but maybe he meant the second year of use

 

[borysgo2]

Plastic UDH should be prohibited. Dangerous, waste a lot of time, savings they are making on it is laughable.
Do not bother of fitting it, get the proper one.

Cheers