I called Specialized Customer Care and they said, there is no reduction in power when in class 3 mode....Your understanding of how it works is incorrect!!
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Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Chris_R
Member
Take care, I bought a Praxis Chainring BCD which doesn't really fit: the holes align but the rear of the spider's extrusions don't align with the one from the Praxis chain ring for some reason plu I'd need different screws as the Praxis one seems to be thinner. So I couldn't make it fit snug.. I opted to keep to stock one and not bother
fbonde
Member
Thanks for the info. Well see what happen when its back from painting. Deff not worth taking any chances here.Take care, I bought a Praxis Chainring BCD which doesn't really fit: the holes align but the rear of the spider's extrusions don't align with the one from the Praxis chain ring for some reason plu I'd need different screws as the Praxis one seems to be thinner. So I couldn't make it fit snug.. I opted to keep to stock one and not bother
Back from my last ride with an Assist Level of 10% and Maximum Power set to 35%, I've configured the display to show the ratio between motor power and rider power.
On flat terrain, this ratio is about 1.5 (ranging from roughly 1.4 to 1.6). But since I've limited the motor to 40%, once I start climbing even moderate hills, the ratio drops below 0.5.
So on flats, where I don’t need much assistance, it helps me enormously. But when I hit a climb—exactly where assistance would be welcome—the maximum power is limited because I want to ride more than 2000 m of elevation gain
On flat terrain, this ratio is about 1.5 (ranging from roughly 1.4 to 1.6). But since I've limited the motor to 40%, once I start climbing even moderate hills, the ratio drops below 0.5.
So on flats, where I don’t need much assistance, it helps me enormously. But when I hit a climb—exactly where assistance would be welcome—the maximum power is limited because I want to ride more than 2000 m of elevation gain
Hi, I bought a Gen4 S-Works frameset, I've ridden it for 500 km already.
But I have a problem, after 400 km it started making strange noises when I pedal with more force, like an old analog bike with a creaking bottom bracket.
When I pull the cranks, I feel the motor spindle hanging. In fact, if I take off the cranks and pull them with my finger, I can still feel it moving like a baby tooth before it falls out, and I can hear the rattling sound. It rattles/moves the same way if I move it left and right or up and down, but only in the radial direction. It doesn't rattle/move in the axial direction. When I'm riding, I can almost hear the bearing balls squeaking. It didn't get water, there was no pedal kick, I usually ride at 90-100/min, I only weigh 80 kg, I don't ride on rough rocky trails, I don't jump with it.
Unfortunately, the head of the lbs is on vacation right now, so I can't return it. By the way, I still have my Gen1, Gen2, Gen3 Levo, I didn't start today, but I haven't experienced such a problem with any of my Levos.
Have you experienced such a motor spindle hanging?
There is the video link:
Gen4 issue video
But I have a problem, after 400 km it started making strange noises when I pedal with more force, like an old analog bike with a creaking bottom bracket.
When I pull the cranks, I feel the motor spindle hanging. In fact, if I take off the cranks and pull them with my finger, I can still feel it moving like a baby tooth before it falls out, and I can hear the rattling sound. It rattles/moves the same way if I move it left and right or up and down, but only in the radial direction. It doesn't rattle/move in the axial direction. When I'm riding, I can almost hear the bearing balls squeaking. It didn't get water, there was no pedal kick, I usually ride at 90-100/min, I only weigh 80 kg, I don't ride on rough rocky trails, I don't jump with it.
Unfortunately, the head of the lbs is on vacation right now, so I can't return it. By the way, I still have my Gen1, Gen2, Gen3 Levo, I didn't start today, but I haven't experienced such a problem with any of my Levos.
Have you experienced such a motor spindle hanging?
There is the video link:
Gen4 issue video
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Greetings, I have a very loud knocking sound during technical uphill riding, with every rotation and completely reproducible each time.
Except when riding gently uphill on an asphalt road, I don’t have this noise.
I have saved the video at this link.
app.filemail.com
I have saved the video at this link.
Except when riding gently uphill on an asphalt road, I don’t have this noise.
I have saved the video at this link.
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I have saved the video at this link.
As of yesterday, a very large SoCal Specialized dealer told me they do not even have a part number yet for the 600 - but RE and 840s are available now.
my gen4 makes the same sound. It's because the motor spindle is hanging. Grab the crank by hand and push and pull it sideways, if it's hanging then you have the same problem as me. Or the crank is just loose. Watch my video and check it like this, without the crank:Greetings, I have a very loud knocking sound during technical uphill riding, with every rotation and completely reproducible each time.
Except when riding gently uphill on an asphalt road, I don’t have this noise.
I have saved the video at this link.
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I have saved the video at this link.
DuncanDoughnuts
Active member
Explain how this ratio metric helps understand the motor power ? I’m struggling to wrap my head around.
I usually just have the motor mechanical power and the rider power displayed. So can see what me the max motor power I get with the different settings.
If the display shows motor power ÷ rider power, you’re seeing how much the motor is contributing relative to what you’re doing with your legs.
If you see 0.5, the motor is only giving ~100 W.
The ratio isn’t a fixed “assist percentage” — it’s a live consequence of:
- Ratio = 1.0 → Motor is giving exactly the same watts you are.
- Ratio = 1.5 → Motor is giving 50 % more watts than you are.
- Ratio = 0.5 → Motor is giving half the watts you are producing.
- Ratio = 2.0 → Motor is giving double your watts.
If you see 0.5, the motor is only giving ~100 W.
The ratio isn’t a fixed “assist percentage” — it’s a live consequence of:
- Your assist level (what the bike tries to give)
- Your max power cap (what it can give at most)
- Your own effort (the denominator in the ratio)
- On flats, you’re pedaling at a comfortable pace, say ~100 W rider power.
Even with a low assist setting, the motor can easily match or exceed that, so ratio ~1.5. - On climbs, you naturally push harder, maybe 250–300 W rider power.
But because you’ve capped max motor output at 35–40 %, it hits the ceiling, so motor watts don’t scale up as much — ratio drops below 0.5.
If you only watch “motor watts” and “rider watts” separately, you can tell the motor output, but it’s harder to see how the relationship changes in different conditions.
DuncanDoughnuts
Active member
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Will give it a try. So this must be be where they got the marketing tag line. 4x you
Greetings, I have a very loud knocking sound during technical uphill riding, with every rotation and completely reproducible each time.
Except when riding gently uphill on an asphalt road, I don’t have this noise.
I have saved the video at this link.
Secure File Sharing - Filemail
Share files of any size, any format, any type, securely
I have saved the video at this link.
I recorded a new video about what noise give out this motor spindle hanging:
The motor makes a rattling sound due to the hanging drive shaft (motor spindle) when I pedal above 150 W.
The crank is greased, tightened to 50 Nm, it's not making this sound, it's coming from the motor, from inside. I also greased the motor mounting bolts, tightened the bolts, it's not the motor mount that's making this sound.
Have anybody experienced such a motor spindle hanging?
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Not to nag but have you had a chat with your dealer?
AKAKTM
Member
I’ve put about 500 miles on my G4 Levo and love the bike. I am noticing that the bike is not quite as quiet as it was new and the motor has gone from nearly silent to producing a significant amount of electrical motor noise. It’s still quieter than a G3 bike, but is clearly audible now.
Is anyone else experiencing this? Does it stay about like this or get more noisy as miles accumulate?
Is anyone else experiencing this? Does it stay about like this or get more noisy as miles accumulate?
DirkWisely
Well-known member
Mine hasn't gotten notably louder, but I'd hardly call it silent to begin with. I'd say it's a similar volume to my g3, but a more pleasant pitch.
I figured out why it makes this sound. They left out this bushing on the spindle sprocket side. That bushing is simply missing there. Because of this, the end of the spindle will first start to hang, which is why it makes a clicking sound. Then this hanging will break the rider freewheel and that will also make a rattling sound. It's simple, it's not brain surgery, but that could be the cause of the sound.Greetings, I have a very loud knocking sound during technical uphill riding, with every rotation and completely reproducible each time.
Except when riding gently uphill on an asphalt road, I don’t have this noise.
I have saved the video at this link.
Secure File Sharing - Filemail
Share files of any size, any format, any type, securely
I have saved the video at this link.
Or maybe the bushing (circled in red) is worn out, because I don't see a seal on the right end of the shaft in this picture. a That last ring at the end is steel, not a seal. Where is the seal then? Didn't they draw it there?
Here are all the schematic drawings:
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DuncanDoughnuts
Active member
Why dont you just take it back and let specialised replace it ..... or ride it until it self destructs and let specialised replace it.
DirkWisely
Well-known member
Just did my first ride with both battery + RE. Did 32.5 miles 4907 ft of elevation. Full turbo the whole way. Got back with 27% battery, so technically didn't need the RE for this ride.
Eduardinior
Member
Bteria + extender?
DirkWisely
Well-known member
I think yes, if bteria is battery.
Eduardoramundo
E*POWAH Master
I am installing a wireless dropper but will be reinstalling the cable one when I eventually sell it.
Question
Does the motor need to be dropped to install a new dropper cable? On my G3 it had cable tubes, but I cant see any on the G4.
Question
Does the motor need to be dropped to install a new dropper cable? On my G3 it had cable tubes, but I cant see any on the G4.
I have exactly the same experience and I do not like how Specialized programmed the motor assistance .
I too, ride my bike with assistance most of the time very low: my Eco at 10/10, Trail 15/15 and turbo at 70/70 (for times when I need to get home fast). On the road I might go "Auto" with 28 mph limit and that puts out most of the power (often over 1000 W rider + engine).
As you described the assistance on flats and easy riding sections is just way too much from motor, almost to the point where rider does not have to exert any effort.
I choose 10/10 and 15/15 for a reason, as I want to get some workout; going uphill it works, as the output is capped at about 115W for 10%, and around 145W for 15% assistance. And because most hills I ride require total input of 300-500 W, that means I am providing most of the watts and getting workout.
Now, when the terrain levels, a big PROBLEM comes, as the motor is assisting me at my 10% setting also with up to 115W, ... on flats normally one only needs between 50 - 150Watts all together, which means the motor is putting most of the power required to propel the bike. And me as an active rider, don't have to almost put out any Watts... this is wrong Specialized !!! If I have 10% set on the flats, I would expect you will lower the assistance to 10% or rider output, not to supply the assistance to the constant cap of about 115 Watts.
This is so much UNNATURAL !!
The 280Wh range extender, did anyone tried to retrofit into the downtube... hate for the RE to use up my bottle cage... Anyone tried or anyone tried to power Gen4 with custom smaller battery ? Ideally I would love to have 400Wh full power output internal battery..
That's exactly what I said when they presented the bike, with all the talk about battery modularity I was expecting the extender(shaped the same as the batterys) to be a modular extension of a smaller battery inside the downtube or as single unit inside the downtube, but that would probably be a revolutionary bike...no one wants that right...
If you have it set 10/10 then surely you aren't getting the full 115W of assistance on the flat while casually pedaling? With the ease setting so low I would expect you are only getting a portion of that and only getting the full 115w when cranking hard.
Either way I think your complaint is a pretty niche viewpoint among most emtb riders. Maybe a TQ powered bike would be more suitable for your use.
DuncanDoughnuts
Active member
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