Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

I completely agree with you, something like a 5/100 is needed.
On my last ride, I climbed about 2000 m D+ and finished with 9% battery left. My settings were Support 10 / Peak Power 45. Still, I find the motor is pushing too hard, especially on flats or moderate gradients.

If I lower peak power even more, then when the climb gets steep, it becomes very hard to keep going – the motor doesn't help enough and I end up pushing 500+ watts myself to keep momentum. That defeats the purpose.

Right now, my plan is to switch from a 34T front chainring to a 30T or 32T to make steep climbs more manageable at lower assist.

But honestly, what would help most is the option to fine-tune support between 1% and 10%, just like BLEvo allowed on previous Levo generations. Having MicroTune steps in 1% increments would give us real control over how much assist we get, especially for long rides where efficiency is key.

I believe it wouldn't take more than 5 minutes for Specialized to add this option via software update. I truly hope someone from Specialized is reading this thread.
 
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On my last ride, I climbed about 2000 m D+ and finished with 9% battery left. My settings were Support 10 / Peak Power 45. Still, I find the motor is pushing too hard, especially on flats or moderate gradients.
Out of interest, what is the power output of the motor on the flats when using support 10?
 
Would it be fair to say the first setting affects the power .... so 10% of 666 = 66watts... or 10% of your input ... so if you put in 100watt the bike will give you 10w extra so 110w total.

and the second number is the the motor torque... so if you say 50% the motor will allow you to go up to 50nm of assisted power.

So confusing...
 
The first number is % of max support (on Gen2/3 max support was 410%, I didn't find this info for new 3.1 motor), second number is max power limit, so 100% mean 666W or 720W with s-works.
 
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Would it be fair to say the first setting affects the power .... so 10% of 666 = 66watts... or 10% of your input ... so if you put in 100watt the bike will give you 10w extra so 110w total.

and the second number is the the motor torque... so if you say 50% the motor will allow you to go up to 50nm of assisted power.

So confusing...
No, the motor power is noted by the second figure. The first figure (ease) controls how much rider input is needed to access the power. The explanation is available in the app.
 
None of it is as straightforward as any of the above! Best bet is to play with the tuning and see what suits you. In essence the tuning controls determine the % of the max assistance the motor can deliver in each mode and how easy it feels in terms of rider input. Beyond that the firmware is written as a set of algorithms taking account of rider torque, cadence and bike speed.......all designed to make the ride experience as natural and controllable as possible. As a result you will feel a difference for any mode tune depending on your cadence and bike speed. It takes a lot more torque overall to accelerate a bike from standstill to a bike that has already overcome inertia. Similarly more power is required when the bike is fighting gravity...ie going uphill. If the bike has no sensor to determine the angle of the bike the algorithm relies on the fact that uphill will require a low gear and therefore high cadence.
 
5/100 does not make any sense.

As soon as you put the slightest bit of power though your leg/s pedals then you will be using over the "5" anyway. The "100" will still give you full power if you push the pedals hard enough.

If you want to use less power and/or battery then you will have reduce the "100" down. Try 10/50 to start and then play around with it.

5/100 is like having a Formula 1 car and trying to get 65 miles per gallon. It's nuts.
 
5/100 does not make any sense.

As soon as you put the slightest bit of power though your leg/s pedals then you will be using over the "5" anyway. The "100" will still give you full power if you push the pedals hard enough.

If you want to use less power and/or battery then you will have reduce the "100" down. Try 10/50 to start and then play around with it.

5/100 is like having a Formula 1 car and trying to get 65 miles per gallon. It's nuts.
I actually like that setting ...... I get a good work out and I get the motor to ramp up power when I need it.

when I ride on my own I use 10/100 20/80 and turbo 30/60

but now with dynamic microtone I don't have to waste my presets with the above settings
 
1754328050790.png
In this image (you can easily find it online), you can see a graph that shows how the motor power output (Y-axis) changes depending on the rider’s leg power (X-axis).This graph was created by testing the bike on a bench.

In the Specialized system, there are two values that influence this curve:

  • The first one (e.g. 10) defines how easily the motor reaches its maximum power output. The higher the value, the quicker the motor kicks in. Changing this number adjusts the slope of the curve.
  • The second value (e.g. 45) is the maximum power that the motor will deliver.
 
Am I reading that you need 390w of leg power to get max motor power in trail? That doesn't seem right.
 
Am I reading that you need 390w of leg power to get max motor power in trail? That doesn't seem right.
Honestly, it does sound a bit strange to me too, but looking at the video, it seems like everything was done in a fairly scientific way...
If someone understands German well, they could probably help us better than the automatic translator.
 
That video makes me think I need to try 70/100 dynamic microtune. Seems like at 30/100 I'm probably never getting full motor power no matter how hard I work. I doubt I'm putting out 400 watts ever.
 
That video makes me think I need to try 70/100 dynamic microtune. Seems like at 30/100 I'm probably never getting full motor power no matter how hard I work. I doubt I'm putting out 400 watts ever.
Make sure rider & motor power output is displayed on one of your screens so that it's easy to see whats going on. This is configurable in the app. Dynamic microtune ramps up motor power (it's not linear), you're probably able to max the motor with 30/100.
 
Am I reading that you need 390w of leg power to get max motor power in trail? That doesn't seem right.
There is a typo on the graph, the correct should be 30/100 (eco), 70/100 (trail) and 100/100 (turbo). In fact you need about 290W to get the maximum assistance on TRAIL
 
Has anyone tried the class 3 mode.
As I understand it you have full power to 32km/h and the power tapers off to 350w (us) 250w (RSA) untill you hit the 45km/h ?
Or do you only have the restricted power from 0-45km/h ?
 
Has anyone tried the class 3 mode.
As I understand it you have full power to 32km/h and the power tapers off to 350w (us) 250w (RSA) untill you hit the 45km/h ?
Or do you only have the restricted power from 0-45km/h ?
I used it a few times and did not notice any power drop until 32 km/h. Above that speed, it is difficult to measure because you are usually cruising on plane surfaces.
 
Has anyone tried the class 3 mode.
As I understand it you have full power to 32km/h and the power tapers off to 350w (us) 250w (RSA) untill you hit the 45km/h ?
Or do you only have the restricted power from 0-45km/h ?
I agree with the above feels like full power right up to 45Kmh, with the caveat that once you pass 32kmh you are really getting into your final gears which honestly top you out a little over 45kmh. If you have been following the threads, ppl not climbing as much have swapped gear for higher speeds. So basically there is no penalty for keeping the bike in Class3, but there is the penalty of the hard cut at 32kmh if not in class3. Also, you need to come to a stop to swap to class3... can't do it moving.
 
I simply don't like the stock colors, so I decided to give the S-Works Levo 4 a paint job and build it up from scratch.

One thing I noticed when I was removing the crank is that the spider has changed from the Levo 3, and now it has a new mount different from the previous Brose motor. The chainring is only black steal and not the SRAM silver. Bummer, I really liked that silver with the integrated spider.
1754463162554.png
I found one from HOPE that is silver to match the rest of the kit, 104 BCD.
1754463264443.png

Going to build it up with ZEB and Coil Ultimate Flight Attended. We could get the local RockShox to make the Levo 4 tune.

Can't wait to put this thing together soon.
 
I simply don't like the stock colors, so I decided to give the S-Works Levo 4 a paint job and build it up from scratch.

One thing I noticed when I was removing the crank is that the spider has changed from the Levo 3, and now it has a new mount different from the previous Brose motor. The chainring is only black steal and not the SRAM silver. Bummer, I really liked that silver with the integrated spider. View attachment 165810I found one from HOPE that is silver to match the rest of the kit, 104 BCD. View attachment 165811
Going to build it up with ZEB and Coil Ultimate Flight Attended. We could get the local RockShox to make the Levo 4 tune.

Can't wait to put this thing together soon.
Look forward to seeing the pictures…… sounds interesting. Don’t you like the genie ?
 
I simply don't like the stock colors, so I decided to give the S-Works Levo 4 a paint job and build it up from scratch.

One thing I noticed when I was removing the crank is that the spider has changed from the Levo 3, and now it has a new mount different from the previous Brose motor. The chainring is only black steal and not the SRAM silver. Bummer, I really liked that silver with the integrated spider. View attachment 165810I found one from HOPE that is silver to match the rest of the kit, 104 BCD. View attachment 165811
Going to build it up with ZEB and Coil Ultimate Flight Attended. We could get the local RockShox to make the Levo 4 tune.

Can't wait to put this thing together soon.
I don't like stock colors too, but I hope you know repainting the frame will surely void your frame warranty ...
 
I simply don't like the stock colors, so I decided to give the S-Works Levo 4 a paint job and build it up from scratch.

One thing I noticed when I was removing the crank is that the spider has changed from the Levo 3, and now it has a new mount different from the previous Brose motor. The chainring is only black steal and not the SRAM silver. Bummer, I really liked that silver with the integrated spider. View attachment 165810I found one from HOPE that is silver to match the rest of the kit, 104 BCD. View attachment 165811
Going to build it up with ZEB and Coil Ultimate Flight Attended. We could get the local RockShox to make the Levo 4 tune.

Can't wait to put this thing together soon.
Looking at the manual the new chainring/spider interface looks splined like the Bosch? If it turns out the same perhaps you can use the Bosch T Type direct mount chainrings. Even if it's a Brose specific spline pattern I am sure SRAM and others will come along with a Specific direct mount chain ring soon enough.

Bosch direct mount ring for ref.

sram-xx-eagle-transmission-kettenblatt-fuer-bosch-gen-5-e-mtb-du38.jpg
 
Looking at the manual the new chainring/spider interface looks splined like the Bosch? If it turns out the same perhaps you can use the Bosch T Type direct mount chainrings. Even if it's a Brose specific spline pattern I am sure SRAM and others will come along with a Specific direct mount chain ring soon enough.

Bosch direct mount ring for ref.

sram-xx-eagle-transmission-kettenblatt-fuer-bosch-gen-5-e-mtb-du38.jpg
I thought the same; however, it's 28 "cogs" vs the new Brose. If I remember correctly, it was only 22 or 24. Definitely not doable.
 
And by the way, Specialized has not yet done a protection film pack you can order, so I got a kit from here, just in case others have damage or want more protection. They make some fir the Levo4 E-Bike Frame Protection - RideWrap
And here's another protection option.

 
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