Roval wheel keeps developing play

[Master_G]

Hello,

I have a 2019 Kenevo Expert, probably only done 200 miles on it and I have had to tighten the real wheel bearings twice in this short amount of time.

It develops a minute amount of play but you can feel it when riding (like something is loose and rattling)

Has anyone else had this problem and has anyone solved it? (not by changing the wheelset ideally).

 

[cozzy]

Yes my rear developed place after 2 rides from new. I didn't know they could be adjusted, I assumed cartridge bearing but guess they have cones if they can be tightened?
I swapped the wheels anyway as I had some spare carbon reserves.

 

[Troutwrestler]

No cones, just two thin threaded collars that tighten against each other. You will need cone spanners, a 12mm Allen key, and a dab of threadlock if you don't need to do it again tomorrow. IIRC, the threads might be LH.

 

[Master_G]

I'll put some thread lock on them, I can't be doing this after every ride. Failing that then I guess I'll have to buy some new wheels on what already is a bloody expensive bike.

 

[rodomotion]

threadlock. the same happened to me on my old 15' stumpy and my 19' levo. also, you need to seat the wheel properly in the frame before tighten it.

 

[Swan]

From the factory these are not always tightened and I find lots of them from other shops that don't get checked before bikes go out the door (along with not doing software updates).

The rear wheel on Roval wheels neet to have the cones locked down against against the 12mm and then together against themselves. I have seen lots come back from other shops (as well as a few from our own shop that I caught on out 30 day new bike checks) that had come loose.. Never had any come loose a second time.

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

I'll put some thread lock on them, I can't be doing this after every ride. Failing that then I guess I'll have to buy some new wheels on what already is a bloody expensive bike.

fit for purpose and warranty springs to mind here. but your LBS should be able to sort cheaper than buying new wheels. I swopped mine out for HX1501's after a few rides so cant really comment on durability of the Rovals.

 

[Master_G]

Thanks, when I tightened the first (black) part to the bearing and then the silver part to the black bit it seems the bearing feels ever so slightly tight but seems to have stopped the play, any looser and the bearing feels 100% but the wheel wobbles. I'll give this a go today and see if it happens again and if so, back to the shop it goes!

 

[Master_G]

fit for purpose and warranty springs to mind here

Would rather fix it myself instead of leave the bike at the shop. If I did go through warranty do you think they'll replace/upgrade the wheel?

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

Would rather fix it myself instead of leave the bike at the shop. If I did go through warranty do you think they'll replace/upgrade the wheel?

don't know TBH but might make them more careful about checking bikes properly before they send them out.

 

[Zimmerframe]

2019 Kenevo Expert and in the last few weeks both the front and rear wheels have developed play and a rattle which goes with it .. (2000km's).

Can I tighten them up ? or with it be more likely wear/damage ? It's been used hard all winter.

This levo related thread doesn't mention tightening, only replacing ?

Roval Traverse front wheel bearings play

My 2019 Levo’s front wheel has developed play in the front wheel bearings after just 250 miles.Does anybody know how to fix this? Can they be tightened or adjusted or do I need new bearings? If new bearings are required could you let me know which ones are needed and if they are easy to install...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Master_G]

I replaced my bearings once again, I used 61903 SKF bearings in the end, the Enduro bearings were awful! Just tighten the pre load slightly and see if it's still smooth, I can now change the bearings in about 10 mins now ?

 

[Binhill1]

I replaced my bearings once again, I used 61903 SKF bearings in the end, the Enduro bearings were awful! Just tighten the pre load slightly and see if it's still smooth, I can now change the bearings in about 10 mins now ?

My 19 expert seems to have very slight movement on rear , I can't see how to preload or am I missing something. Bearing feels rough withwheel off but no play in bearing. Could be wrong but cassette moves a smidgen. Are the bearings easy to change no lbs near me.

 

[nobbyq]

utter crap wheels , nearly everybody has issues , sell and get some dt swiss !

 

[Mikerb]

No problems with mine and the bike is just over a year old. It just needs proper assembly. Firstly is the "play" you are feeling/talking a bout due to a loose through axle or is the play on the main axle. The through axle needs to be clean and the threads greased, then torqued to 15nm. The chain stays and through axle also play a part in making sure there is no play in the main axle, hence the torque setting is important.
The main axle is tightened onto 2 sealed cartridge bearings in the hub and 2 sealed cartridge bearings in the freehub. ( there are no cones or cone bearings). The axle is first set on the non drive side. The inner adjuster is tightened until it starts to impede rotation then backed off a quarter turn. The locknut then tightened against it. On the drive side the single silver nut is tightened finger tight plus a quarter turn ( anti clockwise thread). Make sure it sits neatly into the rubber water seal. The axle should be free moving and may have very slight lateral movement...this will be taken up by the through axle if torqued correctly. There should be no up/down play.....if so the bearings are knackered. I have stripped all of this out 2 or 3 times for servicing and checking over the last year. Never had anything come loose or had any play in the wheel. Loctite is not required.

 

[Mikerb]

Re the bearings...I changed the hub bearings on mine after 7 months.....its a simple and cheap job. The freehub bearings were fine. The non drive side hub bearing felt rough to rotate the drive bearing was fine, but no point jut changing one so I changed both. I used Enduro Bearings which have a better seal on both sides of the bearing at the cost of slightly higher friction ( of no consequence on an E Bike). You will need some tools. The old bearings can be drifted out with a pin punch but you are best getting or making a bearing press to refit the bearings and a void damaging them. I bought the relevant RRP bearing press set and made my own threaded bar etc to complete the press tool. Hub bearings are 6903.

 

[Binhill1]

Re the bearings...I changed the hub bearings on mine after 7 months.....its a simple and cheap job. The freehub bearings were fine. The non drive side hub bearing felt rough to rotate the drive bearing was fine, but no point jut changing one so I changed both. I used Enduro Bearings which have a better seal on both sides of the bearing at the cost of slightly higher friction ( of no consequence on an E Bike). You will need some tools. The old bearings can be drifted out with a pin punch but you are best getting or making a bearing press to refit the bearings and a void damaging them. I bought the relevant RRP bearing press set and made my own threaded bar etc to complete the press tool. Hub bearings are 6903.

To be honest movement so small it's hard to be absolutely sure where it is on mine. With wheel on could be chain stays but remove wheel no play on them . Then took cassette and freeboby off and bearing rough but no play . May wait till worse . Have new drive train ready to go so may change . Not confident to do all the through axle bit but mate has all the gear so will visit him. Just yesterday i noticed movement after fast 8 mile downhill run the day before 2500 miles so I have no complaints with wheels I know what they have been through and im not a lightweight.

 

[Binhill1]

To be honest movement so small it's hard to be absolutely sure where it is on mine. With wheel on could be chain stays but remove wheel no play on them . Then took cassette and freeboby off and bearing rough but no play . May wait till worse . Have new drive train ready to go so may change . Not confident to do all the through axle bit but mate has all the gear so will visit him. Just yesterday i noticed movement after fast 8 mile downhill run the day before 2500 miles so I have no complaints with wheels I know what they have been through and im not a lightweight. Update forget the wheel

 

[Binhill1]

Update motor went this morning forget the wheel

 

[Mikerb]

Bearings should not feel rough. If they are rough then they are either dry or the grease has broken down . Either way the bearing will be worn and is toast.

 

[Mikerb]

Update motor went this morning forget the wheel

In what way?

 

[Binhill1]

Bearings should not feel rough. If they are rough then they are either dry or the grease has broken down . Either way the bearing will be worn and is toast.

Yes it's goosed same as motor on its way back to dealer

 

[Master_G]

i used Enduro bearings on my second attempt, they honestly lasted me about 5 rides before they felt rough, swapped to SKF and not had a problem since. I have managed to solve the play by tightening the adjusters ages ago. I think i need a new lower swing arm bearing set now though as i took it all apart and was full of our glorious british mud. Any walkthrough on changing the bearings im on about?! (the ones at the bottom, closest to the motor)