Reign E+ 2022

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Rickster said:
Nice ! Does the Giant Ride control show your actual speed ? Thanks
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I am using Garmin. But I checked briefly what the app shows and both show actual speed. NICE :). I know it will sound naughty but the bike came alive just now :D. When I shuttle in the big mountains the whole chip is of course useless. But on the trails closest to my home everything is mostly flat. And now I can do speeds at least sort of close to what we all know from big hills :). MORE NICE :D.
 
Hmmm that is nice but… wouldn’t that enable Giant to see that you have derestricted your ride when you get service ?
 
Rickster said:
Hmmm that is nice but… wouldn’t that enable Giant to see that you have derestricted your ride when you get service ?
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I did the same with Bosch. The Bosch gen 4 chips do "compensating" in the end. So the average speed and usage visible during service is "normal". I serviced the Bosch gen 4 bike and never did I have any problems. I don't know what kind of shenanigans VOLSpeed does to trick the Giant Yamaha motor though. So going to the Giant service maybe will be the part of the "long term" review :).

But... As far as I know the speed that is registered by the motor is nowhere close to what WE see. The information that goes to Giant Ride control app or Garmin or whatever doesn't come from the motor. There is a Bluetooth unit outside the motor ('ve seen it with mi own eys). So my guestimation is that the motor sees "good" speed and the "real" speed is what's sent further. But I will be more than happy to listen to someone who really knows how it all works has to say.

I will take the risk because I honestly don't care that much. This rare smile on my face is much more important to me :). And I hope that community will profit too :D. BTW. The maker of VOLSpeed told me that they tested the system for more than 1200km now. Works. They are quite popular here in Germany so I decided to add a bit of trust to my calculation if I want to install this thing or not.
 
goroncy said:
I did the same with Bosch. The Bosch gen 4 chips do "compensating" in the end. So the average speed and usage visible during service is "normal". I serviced the Bosch gen 4 bike and never did I have any problems. I don't know what kind of shenanigans VOLSpeed does to trick the Giant Yamaha motor though. So going to the Giant service maybe will be the part of the "long term" review :).

But... As far as I know the speed that is registered by the motor is nowhere close to what WE see. The information that goes to Giant Ride control app or Garmin or whatever doesn't come from the motor. There is a Bluetooth unit outside the motor ('ve seen it with mi own eys). So my guestimation is that the motor sees "good" speed and the "real" speed is what's sent further. But I will be more than happy to listen to someone who really knows how it all works has to say.

I will take the risk because I honestly don't care that much. This rare smile on my face is much more important to me :). And I hope that community will profit too :D. BTW. The maker of VOLSpeed told me that they tested the system for more than 1200km now. Works. They are quite popular here in Germany so I decided to add a bit of trust to my calculation if I want to install this thing or not.
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Totally agree, just enjoy the ride that’s what it’s there for. Servicing meh…..
 
goroncy said:
This rare smile on my face is much more important to me :).
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Is that rare smile based on the default speed or did you put it up to max? Thinking of taking the plunge with this, same reasons, lots of flat forest trails here where the limiter is spoiling the fun for me.
 
Banksay said:
Is that rare smile based on the default speed or did you put it up to max? Thinking of taking the plunge with this, same reasons, lots of flat forest trails here where the limiter is spoiling the fun for me.
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All the nitty gritty details here:
www.emtbforums.com

Giant Yamaha PW-X3 tuning

For anybody who is interested in tuning his/her Giant-Yamaha PW-X3 motor there is a tuning device from Italy. I contacted them and it will be available from tomorrow on. It seems it is a very basic model that allows only for turning it off and on. No max speed settings or anything. Installation...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com
 
So after setting up my Reign e+1 exactly how I like it and starting to really build my confidence, I managed to hit a tree and break my shoulder.
I can vouch for the build quality of the bike though, a hell of an impact and the only (bike) damage was a slightly cracked front fender and the bars out of alignment.
A few months out of the saddle now, which I am gutted about, but will be back stronger than before in time for the summer.
In the meantime please continue to post your trail pics so I can see what I am missing.
 
Buckaroony said:
So after setting up my Reign e+1 exactly how I like it and starting to really build my confidence, I managed to hit a tree and break my shoulder.
I can vouch for the build quality of the bike though, a hell of an impact and the only (bike) damage was a slightly cracked front fender and the bars out of alignment.
A few months out of the saddle now, which I am gutted about, but will be back stronger than before in time for the summer.
In the meantime please continue to post your trail pics so I can see what I am missing.
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This sucks monkey balls.

Suggestion from me. Exercise absolutely everything that the doctors allows you to exercise. Even the affected arm. Muscle atrophy is something that is very hard to overcome. I had more than one serious injury. All the athletes start to exercise the next day after the accident (if it's possible).
 
Bad luck @Buckaroony , speedy recovery. Depending on the break getting it plated seems to result in a better long-term fix, this has been the experience of many of my mountain bike chums with broken colour bones. Good advice from @goroncy too.
 
Replaced the ZEB sticker with a foil/chrome finish to match the rear shock sticker. Much better versus the original dark grey stickers that is on almost all ZEBs.

Quality from Slik Graphics is solid.

Also noticed that my motor is making every noise described earlier in this thread and you know what, the bike is still making me smile every ride!

zee3.jpg
 
eRide86 said:
Very cool and clever design.

I do not have a 3D printer and don’t know anybody owning one.
Would you consider printing me one and ship it to me? Of course I’m gonna pay for it!
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Would definitely need one of these as well. I drive a lot around a busy city centre and am a little worried a thief who knows what they're looking for spots my Reign E+2.

I'm however currently using three Z-locks around the downtube's battery section and have a fairly loud alarm with a movement sensor so that should be enough of a deterrence for the few minutes at a time that I have to leave my bike unattended.
That lock mechanism would make the bike look a lot cleaner and make things simpler.

I wish someone could start producing these Reign battery locks and sell them through some global online bike shop.
 
Dale_Calgary said:
Did my first ride yesterday and had a blast, this is a game changer. Now I just need to set up the suspension.

View attachment 85735
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Nice looking wheels, way to make the yellow Maxxis logo fit in the E+1 colors, IMO!

I ride an E+1 as well and I wasn't thrilled with the performance of the FOX 38 and X2 - felt way too harsh and jumpy for what I was expecting. I did read about excess grease and stuff and not having any tools around I've just decided to wait until I have a chance to go to a shop with official FOX service.

However I stumbled upon some post talking about equalizing the positive and negative chambers and I tried removing all the air, adding a bit of pressure (about 30 PSI, maybe) then trying to fully extend the fork and at first I didn't feel a hard stop when hitting full extension, but after a while it felt like something cleared up and I could definitely tell a solid stop when hitting maximum extension. After that I continued adding pressure and making sure I could feel the hard stop when fully extending the fork. Did the same with the rear shock.

The difference was night and day, honestly. I can use lower pressures to achieve the same sag (105 vs 120 PSI in the fork and 220 vs 250 PSI in the shock) and just using the recommended starting settings for HSR, HSC, LSR and LSC the bike feels so much better - way more supple and plush while at the same time making large roots and rocks almost disappear.

I have little experience and knowledge in this field, but maybe this helps someone. I'm left thinking that maybe the bike shop should have done this so that customers like me, to whom this need to equalize chambers wasn't obvious at all, can still enjoy a super enduro bike like the E+1 at its best.
 
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Is anyone having issues with there Code RSC’s?? On their Reign E+0??
Both the front and rear callipers a on my bike aren’t equal. Both pistons on the same side of each calliper are pushing out about half way and the other side hardly any movement at all…
 
Letford said:
Is anyone having issues with there Code RSC’s?? On their Reign E+0??
Both the front and rear callipers a on my bike aren’t equal. Both pistons on the same side of each calliper are pushing out about half way and the other side hardly any movement at all…
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My brakes were bled poorly by the factory. I re-bled them and now they're golden. In your case the first simplest thing you should do:

- remove the wheels
- remove the disc pads
- clean pistons and calipers with rubbing alcohol
- put some silicone grease on pistons side walls
- push the pistons back to calipers
- clean everything again with rubbing alcohol
- put the wheels back
- recenter the calipers (and never change their placement again!)
- put the disc pads into calipers
- press the brake levers untill the brakes start to work again
- align the brake pads by moving the pistons only (watch YouTube how it's done)
- when everything is golden remove the wheels and pads again and clean the pistons one last time with rubbing alcohol without moving the pistons

If the brakes are spongy bleed them before the above procedure.

If what I wrote won't help the next phase is replacing the rubber piston seals inside the calipers. But I doubt it will be necessary. You've got SRAM so at least it's possible. Shimano calipers are non repairable.
 
Anyone bought a rubber plug for the hole in the top tube for getting the battery out? Plus my bike is full axs and would like to bring up the hole near the rear shock that cables would normally go through. Any ideas?
 
Endorium said:
Anyone bought a rubber plug for the hole in the top tube for getting the battery out? Plus my bike is full axs and would like to bring up the hole near the rear shock that cables would normally go through. Any ideas?
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I guess if hamsters had sex shops, a hamster butt plug would have a perfect shape and size for what you need :D
 
Heads up for those of you who have decided to buy the bike and are postponing it:
Yesterday I paid a deposit for the +2, one of the last bikes available where I live (Greece). Price here is 5,700 euros and my LBS said they were told by the manufacturer that next batch of bikes will be +300 euros costlier !!
Other LBS say the same thing about other brands too, starting next week or the week after that, all bikes will get more expensive, with new official pricelists coming in from factories all over.
 
John Cap said:
Heads up for those of you who have decided to buy the bike and are postponing it:
Yesterday I paid a deposit for the +2, one of the last bikes available where I live (Greece). Price here is 5,700 euros and my LBS said they were told by the manufacturer that next batch of bikes will be +300 euros costlier !!
Other LBS say the same thing about other brands too, starting next week or the week after that, all bikes will get more expensive, with new official pricelists coming in from factories all over.
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I also saw on the Canadian site it went up $300 about a couple weeks ago.
 
Hi there, can someone please remind me where to get matching Decals for Reign e+ o in Phantom Green Colour.
 
I’ve been getting a few pedal strikes most rides, despite running in the high setting and trying to be careful with my pedalling. It’s not something I’ve suffered from in the past, even with my slack and low DH bike.
has anyone tried running shorter crank arms? I’m considering trying out some Hope ebike specific ones.
I am keen to chuck the bike into the low setting as I love the geometry, just can’t handle striking the pedals (or crank arm ends).
 
Buckaroony said:
I’ve been getting a few pedal strikes most rides, despite running in the high setting and trying to be careful with my pedalling. It’s not something I’ve suffered from in the past, even with my slack and low DH bike.
has anyone tried running shorter crank arms? I’m considering trying out some Hope ebike specific ones.
I am keen to chuck the bike into the low setting as I love the geometry, just can’t handle striking the pedals (or crank arm ends).
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I started off riding in the low setting and loved it but have now changed to the high for that very reason. To be honest I don't miss the slightly slacker geometry as the bike still feels very planted but now has the added benefit of a few less strikes and marginally sharper steering. As I'm riding more rocky tech than groomed park I'll leave it in high for the time being. I haven't felt the need for shorter cranks, I'd rather spend the money on tyres! I'm 175cm on a large and its awesome.
 
@Buckaroony - this bike has been designed for E-Enduro Racing and the BB hight is by purpose and design. Maybe this is not the bike for your type of riding?
 
trailaddict said:
@Buckaroony - this bike has been designed for E-Enduro Racing and the BB hight is by purpose and design. Maybe this is not the bike for your type of riding?
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Lol thanks.
It’s exactly the bike for me, I was just considering running in the low setting with shorter cranks so I struck less rocks and roots.
Rather than hurling insults perhaps wind your neck in?
 
Buckaroony said:
I’ve been getting a few pedal strikes most rides, despite running in the high setting and trying to be careful with my pedalling. It’s not something I’ve suffered from in the past, even with my slack and low DH bike.
has anyone tried running shorter crank arms? I’m considering trying out some Hope ebike specific ones.
I am keen to chuck the bike into the low setting as I love the geometry, just can’t handle striking the pedals (or crank arm ends).
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What size are you riding? The S/M have 160mm cranks and the L/XL have 165mm cranks. I think the Hope's are 155mm so if you're riding a large or above then you'll get an extra 10mm clearance, the same as the difference between the high and low setting. Basically you can run low on 155mm and have the same clearance as running high on standard. I looked into it, but decided that since I have a medium, 5mm extra wasn't worth the outlay. Someone will probably tell me I'm talking shite, but it sounds like a worthwhile option to me if you are running a larger frame. The pedal strikes also do my head in, my only criticism of the bike.
 
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