Reign E+ 2022

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Thats btw the dumbest shit I have seen in developing software. Being forced to update firmware via bluetooth over a smartphone to be able to use a damn app,
I agree 100%
Can anyone think of a means to pressure Giant to remove the obligatory firmware updates required to access the APP (Android or Apple);

My personal experience of the APP is minimal, I've launched it a few times to get battery status/health and mileage and have been requested to update the firmware about 3 times in the 4 months I've owned the bike; I succeeded in installing each update only when connected to WIFI (Android) and often after multiple tries with failed timeouts!
It requested to update the first day I picked the bike up, took 4 worrying attempts to get it installed.

I'd personally like that the APP have something like a offline and online mode:
Offline mode to use BT to communicate with the bike, and maybe use phone GPS for data logging etc...
Online mode with DATA/WIFI connection for home/maintenance use: uploading logged data to third party sites, maps, browse and install user selectable firmware updates & release notes and so forth.
 
So apparently in the other thread about app issues my problem is described. For some reason some "Ride Control GO"-Units , which are the ones in the top tube of the frame get shot when changing the LED brightness. After that the menu in the app for configuring the ridecontrol unit are gone.. Motor switches off after 30 seconds and only dynamic mode works.
Asked my dealer to order the unit, but he thinks it is the ergo unit on the handlebar :mad: Thats exactly why I build my bikes myself. Dealers wants to test the ergo first, then the ride control go unit. I just skipped those parts and bought the damn unit myself.
 
This is beyond belief..! 🤬
Giant, the largest bike manufacturer in the world… The bikes are good but E-Bikes are technology driven now, how long before they fix this…?
We are at revision 13 of the current app (iOS) which is a complete re-write of the original app which was EOL about a year ago… Every time there is an update, I get anxiety attacks 😫
 
I guess I won't be using this app anymore after the bike works again.. The settings for the 5 modes are ok as they are. Led brightness, I guess I couldn't care less if there is a chance to brick the unit again.
I am only interested in the connection to the garmin enviroment. Not sure if I need the app for that.
 
Weird because I have updated my bike a number of times without issue. (iOS, Wi-Fi, fully charged phone and bike).
He says touching wood.
 
I guess I won't be using this app anymore after the bike works again.. The settings for the 5 modes are ok as they are. Led brightness, I guess I couldn't care less if there is a chance to brick the unit again.
I am only interested in the connection to the garmin environment. Not sure if I need the app for that.
Garmin ANT+ connection works fine with the Giant controller and displays all you need to ride - battery % in 1% increments!
I have an old Garmin Fenix3 and use the Garmin Connect EBike field "Ebike Field" does whats written in the description.
Distance/ascension/power information from the Giant controller/APP is total rubbish when I compare to actual GPS data. So I never use it!
I assume the APP/controller distance error is related to the wrong rear wheelsize being defined in the controller and why power appears to cut before the 25km/h threshold.
 
I guess I won't be using this app anymore after the bike works again.. The settings for the 5 modes are ok as they are. Led brightness, I guess I couldn't care less if there is a chance to brick the unit again.
I am only interested in the connection to the garmin enviroment. Not sure if I need the app for that.
That was my thoughts from the start. The modes are fine for me so I use the bike just like my Hightower. I don't log a thing just ride it until I'm spent! Yeah it would be good to have mileage etc.but that's not my buzz. So all I do is lube the chain and charge the battery which seems to work well.
 
Garmin ANT+ connection works fine with the Giant controller and displays all you need to ride - battery % in 1% increments!
I have an old Garmin Fenix3 and use the Garmin Connect EBike field "Ebike Field" does whats written in the description.
Distance/ascension/power information from the Giant controller/APP is total rubbish when I compare to actual GPS data. So I never use it!
I assume the APP/controller distance error is related to the wrong rear wheelsize being defined in the controller and why power appears to cut before the 25km/h threshold.
I agree on the App data 👍. I also use the ebike field with my Fenix works like a charm. Do you get correct calorie consumption when you have the Giant power sensor connected. This is a Garmin issue obviously as it overrides the heart rate with power for calorie consumption calculating. Just wondering if it's the same at you?
 
I agree on the App data 👍. I also use the ebike field with my Fenix works like a charm. Do you get correct calorie consumption when you have the Giant power sensor connected. This is a Garmin issue obviously as it overrides the heart rate with power for calorie consumption calculating. Just wondering if it's the same at you?
It depends if the Giant power meter connects or stays connected to the Garmin during the ride.
I think you first need to do a Garmin FTP test on a controlled ride to set your personal FTP threshold before being able to record realistic power ratings.
I haven't done this and probably like you, have low power readings in my Garmin data if the power meter is connected.
I'm lazy about using a heart rate monitor so difficult for the Garmin to see my HR zones and calculate effort.

Here below are 2 similar rides, 1st with Power meter, 2nd without.
The results are very different but actual effort was the same.

With the Giant power meter connected I get very low Calorie/Power "weighted" readings
1647539473726.png

With the Giant power meter disconnected readings are "estimated"
1647538986090.png
 
It depends if the Giant power meter connects or stays connected to the Garmin during the ride.
I think you first need to do a Garmin FTP test on a controlled ride to set your personal FTP threshold before being able to record realistic power ratings.
I haven't done this and probably like you, have low power readings in my Garmin data if the power meter is connected.
I'm lazy about using a heart rate monitor so difficult for the Garmin to see my HR zones and calculate effort.

Here below are 2 similar rides, 1st with Power meter, 2nd without.
The results are very different but actual effort was the same.

With the Giant power meter connected I get very low Calorie/Power "weighted" readings
View attachment 84108
With the Giant power meter disconnected readings are "estimated"
View attachment 84107
Hey yes that's exactly how my case is. Yes I know about FTP, have already done that so have that setup in my Fenix...it made no difference, it looks like the power input from the ANT+ sensor has priority in Garmins firmware...I am trying to find a workaround that, but no luck, I guess I will just leave the power sensor disconnected ✌⚡ thanks
 
Hey yes that's exactly how my case is. Yes I know about FTP, have already done that so have that setup in my Fenix...it made no difference, it looks like the power input from the ANT+ sensor has priority in Garmins firmware...I am trying to find a workaround that, but no luck, I guess I will just leave the power sensor disconnected ✌⚡ thanks
My 2021 Trance is excalty the same. Very low power readings and no fix from Garmin or Giant as of yet. Does anybody know if other brands like Specialized have valid rider power data?
 
My 2021 Trance is excalty the same. Very low power readings and no fix from Garmin or Giant as of yet. Does anybody know if other brands like Specialized have valid rider power data?
I think Giant's power readings are ok, it's the way Garmin is reading that data...I was tinkering with some setups in the Garmin App, but till now no luck. ✌ Will dig deeper 🤟
 
@mummyb0t you had the same issues with led brightness? Why was your bike down for 48 hours? How did you solve it?

yeah, my bike was dead for about 48hrs. I just left it, made no changes, didn't remove the battery or anthing, and then it came right.

Since then, I have not touched the LED settings inside the app. I do update the bike when the app prompts me to, and I do change the power setttings inside the app. I've now done about 1100kms on the bike now and never had that issue again.

Hope that helps.
 
So apparently in the other thread about app issues my problem is described. For some reason some "Ride Control GO"-Units , which are the ones in the top tube of the frame get shot when changing the LED brightness. After that the menu in the app for configuring the ridecontrol unit are gone.. Motor switches off after 30 seconds and only dynamic mode works.
Asked my dealer to order the unit, but he thinks it is the ergo unit on the handlebar :mad: Thats exactly why I build my bikes myself. Dealers wants to test the ergo first, then the ride control go unit. I just skipped those parts and bought the damn unit myself.

I think you act to hastily. Wait those 48 hours. I bricked my bike this way 3 times. No permanent damage was done. You need to update the firmware multiple times after that with your phone. Don't change any settings through the app. Make sure that firmware has the newest possible version. At that point everything should work. Brightness change too.
 
@goroncy Yeah, maybe I am a bit too fast when it comes to stuff like that. I took the bike out of the box and went for a 50 meters ride in front of the house. Then straight into the house, changed brakelevers, brake discs, zeb fender and so on. And after playing with the app it is dead before a proper ride :(

So you two @mummyb0t and @goroncy just left the bike in the corner with everything assembled and did not switch it on for 2 days straight, right? Battery loaded as well? Guess I'll wait another day or two. Thats most likely the time the spare part takes to get over here anyways. If it fixes itself for whatever reason, I might just send it back.

Still, as a devops engineer, I find it really concerning, that it fixes itself. I cannot think of anything right now where code fixes itself and how should broken hardware do that. Can only think of some kind of reset within the unit for some stupid reason.
 
@goroncy Yeah, maybe I am a bit too fast when it comes to stuff like that. I took the bike out of the box and went for a 50 meters ride in front of the house. Then straight into the house, changed brakelevers, brake discs, zeb fender and so on. And after playing with the app it is dead before a proper ride :(

So you two @mummyb0t and @goroncy just left the bike in the corner with everything assembled and did not switch it on for 2 days straight, right? Battery loaded as well? Guess I'll wait another day or two. Thats most likely the time the spare part takes to get over here anyways. If it fixes itself for whatever reason, I might just send it back.

Still, as a devops engineer, I find it really concerning, that it fixes itself. I cannot think of anything right now where code fixes itself and how should broken hardware do that. Can only think of some kind of reset within the unit for some stupid reason.

Correct, it was 2 days for me, no longer, this was in December, not sure what version of firmware sorry. I'm guessing its something off in the hardware for the new controller, but honestly I've had no other issues so havn't chased it with LBS.
 
@goroncy Yeah, maybe I am a bit too fast when it comes to stuff like that. I took the bike out of the box and went for a 50 meters ride in front of the house. Then straight into the house, changed brakelevers, brake discs, zeb fender and so on. And after playing with the app it is dead before a proper ride :(

So you two @mummyb0t and @goroncy just left the bike in the corner with everything assembled and did not switch it on for 2 days straight, right? Battery loaded as well? Guess I'll wait another day or two. Thats most likely the time the spare part takes to get over here anyways. If it fixes itself for whatever reason, I might just send it back.

Still, as a devops engineer, I find it really concerning, that it fixes itself. I cannot think of anything right now where code fixes itself and how should broken hardware do that. Can only think of some kind of reset within the unit for some stupid reason.

I took my battery out. I think it actually takes less than 48h but to be on a safe side I would turn it on after 48h.
 
Spin 5 today, getting to appreciate just how solid it feels on really gnarly descents. Geometry and suspension is on the money, so planted, feels like it will take anything you throw at it. Combine that with its climbing ability and it's a killer machine. Absolutely loving it.
 
Is anyone struggling with the bottom bracket height? This is turning out to be a bit of an issue for me. My last bike an evil wrecking was 339mm in lowest setting , at 330 in the high setting the reign can be hard to manage. I’m ok on the cranks but fined I hit the motor on steep roll ins if I don’t float the back up…
 
Is anyone struggling with the bottom bracket height? This is turning out to be a bit of an issue for me. My last bike an evil wrecking was 339mm in lowest setting , at 330 in the high setting the reign can be hard to manage. I’m ok on the cranks but fined I hit the motor on steep roll ins if I don’t float the back up…

5D36AD8A-FFB7-441C-9A6C-9E3BD525372E.jpeg

may be related to how I’ve measured the sag? At full compression (no air) there is 10mm of shaft left over. I didn’t have hash bottom outs, but did noticed o-ring never went further than this…. Probably need to use this smaller measurement for sag = higher pressure.

can anyone confirm is they have seen similar shaft travel? I gotta warn you it’s a pain to pump the shock from zero pressure as the Linkage gets in the way of the valve.
 
Same here on the fox dps shock. I just set the sag and read your comment. The total shaft length ist about 71mm. I think the fox shocks are not supposed to compress all the way.
Not sure though if this has to do with the shock itself. Because the x2 shock is only available in one size for 205mm length. The travel can be lengthened and shortened internally from I think 57.5mm up to 65mm with a spacer in 2.5mm increments.
I would just calculate for 62.5mm and measure from there
 
Same here on the fox dps shock. I just set the sag and read your comment. The total shaft length ist about 71mm. I think the fox shocks are not supposed to compress all the way.
Not sure though if this has to do with the shock itself. Because the x2 shock is only available in one size for 205mm length. The travel can be lengthened and shortened internally from I think 57.5mm up to 65mm with a spacer in 2.5mm increments.
I would just calculate for 62.5mm and measure from there

"I think the fox shocks are not supposed to compress all the way."

You think ;)

IMG_20190201_135328.jpg
 
Well 😂 then I think was the right expression 😂 on my forbidden dreadnought the x2 does not compress like that.
 
Well 😂 then I think was the right expression 😂 on my forbidden dreadnought the x2 does not compress like that.

That's what happens when you do a forecast of reality based on a small sample. Now you have no other choice than to change your world view 180° after seeing just one more evidence. Science at it's finest :cool:.
 
I am perfectly fine with learning new stuff and reflecting my fails 😊 but as I said. I am not sure if this is maybe because of the possibility to change travel within the shock. I only know this can be done with trunnion mounted shocks. Not sure about regular mounting.
I can see with the dps shock that the shaft is almost 10mm longer than the 62.5mm that is written in the stats sheet.
 
Same here on the fox dps shock. I just set the sag and read your comment. The total shaft length ist about 71mm. I think the fox shocks are not supposed to compress all the way.
Not sure though if this has to do with the shock itself. Because the x2 shock is only available in one size for 205mm length. The travel can be lengthened and shortened internally from I think 57.5mm up to 65mm with a spacer in 2.5mm increments.
I would just calculate for 62.5mm and measure from there
Yeah thank you, that’s what I have done now.
 
Reign E+ Motor Power.
I may have found why in some cases the the new PWX-3 motor doesn’t feel as powerful as the old PWX-2… Factory settings (pictures) are lower for the first 4 levels of power on the new motor 😳 Screenshots taken yesterday Trance 2020 (PW-X2) vs Reign 2022 (PW-X3).
Love the new bike! 👍

IMG_4249.PNG


IMG_4253.PNG
 
I was going to put a coil from my other bike on up my reign. After speaking to the shock supplier they suggested a heavier spring for my ohlins. Did you need your do this with your fox?
Have actually moved to cane creek progressive spring rates 430 to 480 and for my 82kg it's much better and still supple at the top. Happy now 😉😜👍
 
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