Reign E+ 2022

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Just ordered Miranda 150mm cranks arms straight from their site. It comes with mounting bolts so that made the decision easy for me. Couldn’t find a better option closer to home in Alberta, Canada. Honesty a really great value even with having to pay shipping/exchange.
Delta Cranks 150 Q.0 RF Isis Cold-forged aluminium alloy Standard (Black) for E-BIKE
I hope I ordered the right ones. I’m not sure what Q is can get away with. These are Q0.
I watched the recent YouTube video with EMTB and give all my pedal strikes on my Medium, I just had to try it. @Rob Rides EMTB just posted another great video with shorter crank arms on his Turbo Levo. So excited! Might be able to go back to the low setting on the flip chip.
 
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View attachment 92789Just ordered Miranda 150mm cranks arms straight from their site. It comes with mounting bolts so that made the decision easy for me. Couldn’t find a better option closer to home in Alberta, Canada. Honesty a really great value even with having to pay shipping/exchange.
Delta Cranks 150 Q.0 RF Isis Cold-forged aluminium alloy Standard (Black) for E-BIKE
I hope I ordered the right ones. I’m not sure what Q is can get away with. These are Q0.
I watched the recent YouTube video with EMTB and give all my pedal strikes on my Medium, I just had to try it. @Rob Rides EMTB just posted another great video with shorter crank arms on his Turbo Levo. So excited! Might be able to go back to the low setting on the flip chip.

Would you mind linking Robs video? I’m looking at these cranks thanks for sharing the link. Please post back after you receive them with a couple of pics!
 
Has any one tried swapping out the 3pawl free hub to ratchet?
I’ve seen this kit online, although I already have 54t ratchet kicking about.
Seems the reign 1 and 0 have a 370 hub?

DDF634A9-9C8F-439A-A0C3-8F3D9F834AAF.png
 
I just bought a DT Swiss 350 microspline rear hub for 150 Euro. I did think about converting the OE rear but decided that building a new set of wheels and having the originals as a spare set would be a better option.

If you already have the parts to convert it’s a no brained. Go for it I think you won’t be disappointed
 
I just bought a DT Swiss 350 microspline rear hub for 150 Euro. I did think about converting the OE rear but decided that building a new set of wheels and having the originals as a spare set would be a better option.

If you already have the parts to convert it’s a no brained. Go for it I think you won’t be disappointed
My 2020 reign e+1 stripped the threads inside the hub out so this bike will probably do the same.
i ended up getting a dt Swiss wheels set with 240 hubs.
I’m probably better off buying a 240 rear hub or just building a new wheelset eventually.
 
Save yourself 100E and get the new (2021+) 350. Same engagement, few grams more and slightly narrower bearing spacing. Damed if I could notice those differences and I like black and white more than black and red. Easy choice for me.

in any case DT Swiss ratchet is tough to beat for reliability vs performance
 
Save yourself 100E and get the new (2021+) 350. Same engagement, few grams more and slightly narrower bearing spacing. Damed if I could notice those differences and I like black and white more than black and red. Easy choice for me.

in any case DT Swiss ratchet is tough to beat for reliability vs performance

Are the giant hubs are DT Swiss 180s ?
 
On the Reign E+0 TRX wheels they are DT 240's I can't find any info on the E+1 TR1 wheels
E+1 has the DT Swiss 350s( I guess), because the ratchet is a marked DT Swiss 3 pawl design.

How can you be sure it's the 240s on the E+0?
 
E+1 has the DT Swiss 350s( I guess), because the ratchet is a marked DT Swiss 3 pawl design.

How can you be sure it's the 240s on the E+0?

because that’s what it says on the Giant Australia website. In hindsight that maybe just the TRX wheelset. Under hubs on the bike it just says Giant TRX hubs
 
Anyone got any good fox settings on this rig? Here are mine, it’s feeling good but still would like more progression on the rear, as I’m at the max (2) tokens I will try slightly lower sag 215psi plus a click or two high speed compression.


Suspension
Rider weight 85kg (nude)

38 Fork
110psi ~15% sag 25mm
3 tokens
Hsr - 5
Lsr - 6
Compression fully open

X2 Shock. 62.5 length
210psi. - 28% sag (19mm)
2 tokens
Hsr -9
Lsr -5
Compression fully open
 
View attachment 92789Just ordered Miranda 150mm cranks arms straight from their site. It comes with mounting bolts so that made the decision easy for me. Couldn’t find a better option closer to home in Alberta, Canada. Honesty a really great value even with having to pay shipping/exchange.
Delta Cranks 150 Q.0 RF Isis Cold-forged aluminium alloy Standard (Black) for E-BIKE
I hope I ordered the right ones. I’m not sure what Q is can get away with. These are Q0.
I watched the recent YouTube video with EMTB and give all my pedal strikes on my Medium, I just had to try it. @Rob Rides EMTB just posted another great video with shorter crank arms on his Turbo Levo. So excited! Might be able to go back to the low setting on the flip chip.
So I screwed up and ordered the wrong Q. These are the correct ones:
 
Are the giant hubs are DT Swiss 180s ?
the giant tr hubs look like in-house machined shells that use DT Swiss rear freehub and internals - similar to Specialized Traverse wheels that use the DT Swiss ratchet system. Below are pictures of the Giant TR, DTSwiss370 and DTSwiss180 straight pull rear hubs
1658996084111.png

1658995854732.png
1658996143167.png

The spoke anchor in the DT Swiss shells are different to the Giant hub.
The Giant wheels are also laced with sapim spokes which indicates that the wheels are probably not built by DT Swiss.
My reign e+1 rear wheel has started to fail even with regular attention, spokes falling out and requiring frequent re-tension, maybe something to do with the fancy "Dynamic Balanced Lacing"!
Dynamic Balanced Lacing maybe indicates the factory can't quite get the robotic lacing machine to lace their wheels within tolerance!
My take, I would not spend money converting the Giant/DT 3 pawl internals to ratchet (tools and conversion kit are costly) - it is more economical to buy a DT Swiss HX or EX replacement rear wheel on sale or build a new wheel using a quality hub, spokes and rim.
From experience DT uses quality bearings (get better as price and model increases) that the Chinese built hubs do not, good bearings equates to a good hub that lasts.
 
Does anyone know the length of the spokes on the rear tire? The thickness is 2/1.5/2 I broke the shorter spoke and I'm not sure how to measure it.
Hi, maybe this will help.
Your wheels are assembled on sapim spokes, you can try to enter the parameters in the spoke calculator Spoke calculator | Sapim
I have wheels on the same hubs as yours, the difference is the rims, your TRX my e-TR1 here are the spoke values :
Giant REIGN E+ 1 MX
Spoke Sapim LASER TCS Straight Pull 14G-15G x 275mm (2.0x1.5x2.0) BLK
Spoke Sapim LASER TCS Straight Pull 14G-15G x 279mm (2.0x1.5x2.0) BLK
Spoke Sapim NIPPLE AL ROUND DOUBLE SQUARE 2.0x16mm BLK SECURE LOCK

:unsure:
 
the giant tr hubs look like in-house machined shells that use DT Swiss rear freehub and internals - similar to Specialized Traverse wheels that use the DT Swiss ratchet system. Below are pictures of the Giant TR, DTSwiss370 and DTSwiss180 straight pull rear hubs
View attachment 93420
View attachment 93418View attachment 93421
The spoke anchor in the DT Swiss shells are different to the Giant hub.
The Giant wheels are also laced with sapim spokes which indicates that the wheels are probably not built by DT Swiss.
My reign e+1 rear wheel has started to fail even with regular attention, spokes falling out and requiring frequent re-tension, maybe something to do with the fancy "Dynamic Balanced Lacing"!
Dynamic Balanced Lacing maybe indicates the factory can't quite get the robotic lacing machine to lace their wheels within tolerance!
My take, I would not spend money converting the Giant/DT 3 pawl internals to ratchet (tools and conversion kit are costly) - it is more economical to buy a DT Swiss HX or EX replacement rear wheel on sale or build a new wheel using a quality hub, spokes and rim.
From experience DT uses quality bearings (get better as price and model increases) that the Chinese built hubs do not, good bearings equates to a good hub that lasts.
I believe ur right, especially when my old 2020 reign hub grenaded itself
 
Wow! What exactly happened and could it be fixed?
Inside the hub where the pawls engage there’s a toothed ring That threads into the hub.,
The threads stripped out,
Was all good my local giant covered it under warranty
 
Anyone got any good fox settings on this rig? Here are mine, it’s feeling good but still would like more progression on the rear, as I’m at the max (2) tokens I will try slightly lower sag 215psi plus a click or two high speed compression.


Suspension
Rider weight 85kg (nude)

38 Fork
110psi ~15% sag 25mm
3 tokens
Hsr - 5
Lsr - 6
Compression fully open

X2 Shock. 62.5 length
210psi. - 28% sag (19mm)
2 tokens
Hsr -9
Lsr -5
Compression fully open

I'm ~96Kg (equipped) and I'm still tuning the 38 and X2 on my E+1, but so far with the following settings I can use almost all the travel in the most extreme drops I'm willing to take while still having a plush ride on small chatter (cobblestone, small roots, etc.). Also please bear in mind that I'm using a 27.5" x 2.5" DD 2C Aggressor at 21-23 PSI in the back and a 29" x 2.5" DD 3C Maxxgripp DHF at 18-20 PSI in the front - these feel supple and grippy due to the lower pressure, despite being both Double Down, and that helps with the overall plush feel of the bike.

38:
Factory volume spacers (3?)
~106 PSI (~20%/34mm sag)
LSR: 12 from closed (4 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (3 recommended)
LSC: 14 from closed (10 recommended)
HSC: 8 from closed (fully open, 5 recommended)

X2:
Factory volume spacers (??)
~220 PSI (~30%/18.5mm sag)
LSR: 10 from closed (5-7 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (2-3 recommended)
LSC: 13 from closed (7-9 recommended)
HSC: 9 from closed (fully open or almost, 4-5 recommended)

This is still a work in progress and I'm not that knowledgeable in the field, but I'm trying to get that damped/heavy feeling after big hits while keeping a very plush/supple feel over small rocks and roots and cobblestone roads.
 
I'm ~96Kg (equipped) and I'm still tuning the 38 and X2 on my E+1, but so far with the following settings I can use almost all the travel in the most extreme drops I'm willing to take while still having a plush ride on small chatter (cobblestone, small roots, etc.). Also please bear in mind that I'm using a 27.5" x 2.5" DD 2C Aggressor at 21-23 PSI in the back and a 29" x 2.5" DD 3C Maxxgripp DHF at 18-20 PSI in the front - these feel supple and grippy due to the lower pressure, despite being both Double Down, and that helps with the overall plush feel of the bike.

38:
Factory volume spacers (3?)
~106 PSI (~20%/34mm sag)
LSR: 12 from closed (4 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (3 recommended)
LSC: 14 from closed (10 recommended)
HSC: 8 from closed (fully open, 5 recommended)

X2:
Factory volume spacers (??)
~220 PSI (~30%/18.5mm sag)
LSR: 10 from closed (5-7 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (2-3 recommended)
LSC: 13 from closed (7-9 recommended)
HSC: 9 from closed (fully open or almost, 4-5 recommended)

This is still a work in progress and I'm not that knowledgeable in the field, but I'm trying to get that damped/heavy feeling after big hits while keeping a very plush/supple feel over small rocks and roots and cobblestone roads.
Cool, I’ve been watching the Dialed series on the fox YouTube channel a lot, coming off 10 years of RS suspension the fox stuff is so different
 
I'm ~96Kg (equipped) and I'm still tuning the 38 and X2 on my E+1, but so far with the following settings I can use almost all the travel in the most extreme drops I'm willing to take while still having a plush ride on small chatter (cobblestone, small roots, etc.). Also please bear in mind that I'm using a 27.5" x 2.5" DD 2C Aggressor at 21-23 PSI in the back and a 29" x 2.5" DD 3C Maxxgripp DHF at 18-20 PSI in the front - these feel supple and grippy due to the lower pressure, despite being both Double Down, and that helps with the overall plush feel of the bike.

38:
Factory volume spacers (3?)
~106 PSI (~20%/34mm sag)
LSR: 12 from closed (4 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (3 recommended)
LSC: 14 from closed (10 recommended)
HSC: 8 from closed (fully open, 5 recommended)

X2:
Factory volume spacers (??)
~220 PSI (~30%/18.5mm sag)
LSR: 10 from closed (5-7 recommended)
HSR: 2 from closed (2-3 recommended)
LSC: 13 from closed (7-9 recommended)
HSC: 9 from closed (fully open or almost, 4-5 recommended)

This is still a work in progress and I'm not that knowledgeable in the field, but I'm trying to get that damped/heavy feeling after big hits while keeping a very plush/supple feel over small rocks and roots and cobblestone roads.
Im about 100kg plus gear - running the 38 at 114psi and the X2 at 280psi - feels about right for the riding I do. Took 2 of the tokens out of the fork and running both with compression fully open - maybe a click or 2 of lsc.
 
Im about 100kg plus gear - running the 38 at 114psi and the X2 at 280psi - feels about right for the riding I do. Took 2 of the tokens out of the fork and running both with compression fully open - maybe a click or 2 of lsc.

how many spacers in the x2?
 
Hey how are you guys liking the Yamaha motor? (Still on the fence on what to buy). Yamaha vs EP8 vs Dyname? Anyone have experience with all three?

I reckon geo, price and warranty is the way to think about it, people think about these bikes like they are an iPhone how many megapixels is it??? 😆 the motor doesn’t hold your hand when you jump it!
 
I reckon geo, price and warranty is the way to think about it, people think about these bikes like they are an iPhone how many megapixels is it??? 😆 the motor doesn’t hold your hand when you jump it!
Haha… one of the least helpful replies. I am talking motor feel, quality. I should start a new thread maybe…
 
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