ART:
A34239CT-ND MFG : TE Connectivity AMP Connectors (VA) / 5-104505-4 DESC: CONN PIN 22-26AWG CRIMP GOLD pin size is .027" (.66mm). Order your parts from
DIGI KEY.
But you want one with a smaller body or you will have to drill out your pinhole on the plate mount to .078" in order for the body to fit proper. Like I said the wire is 26GAW and the body is roughly .037" x .044". That will help narrow your search. Owning a set of vernier sure helps to measure with.
Like I said I can get you the right number but they literally have thousands to choose from and it will take time to get the right one. Mine worked fine because I knew I could easily modify it to make it fit. I will look for you when I have time. When you order, order 10. They are .61 cents each. Better to have extra doing nothing than the one you wreck and no more to use. Putting everything back together was a giant pain in the butt. You can download a complete parts breakdown from Norco for every bolt and part and where they go to help guide you if you get lost. If you cannot find it then email Norco support and they will send you a PDF or your local Norco bike store can get it for you.
Make sure you have a heavy gauge wire and run it into the main body of the bike from the power button hole down the tube of the bike frame. You will then need to electrical tape the connector for the "power on" button to that cable and pull it out as your pushing the battery back in or it will not show up on the other end, and there is just enough cable to just make it to the top of the power buttonhole. (Thanks Shimano A-h&$@s) Use a set of needle-nose pliers to hold the connector while you remove the tape and plug in the power button connector right away in case it falls back inside. The power button cable MUST be tapped to the side of the battery that faces the top of the frame before insertion to keep it from binding up or slipping backward. tape to the top side ONLY. If you tape to the sides of the battery it will start to peel off and jam it up. There is literally no room for anything extra on the sides.
When sliding the battery back inside please make sure that the brake lines and cable that run inside the frame are not stacking on each other. There is just enough room under the battery for one cable high otherwise the battery will start to bind going in the tube. That is not good. Very hard to get out. As your nearing the 2 holes in the frame for the mount plate and bolts to secure the top side of the battery or the side nearest the top of the frame. Push slowly as it needs to line up to be exact and it's tough to move the battery around using the harness that comes off the end of the battery as it's the only way to move it as there is nothing else to grab. If the battery is not sliding in "STOP" pull it out and check everything to make sure it's all in there flat. DO NOT rubber tap the battery into the frame. If it gets stuck your SOL. I went to our service department and got 7 rubber o'rings @ .357" inside diameter with a 1/8" cross-section and placed them behind the battery mount plates around the plastic molding where the bolt zerqs are molded into each end of the battery frame. It fits perfectly. That way I create a crush seal between the battery and the plate so no water can get in via the bolt zerqs into the battery itself. I also spent time using electrical tape to wrap right up to the connectors on exposed wires. SHAME SHIMANO, SHAME.
When mounting the motor make sure the 2 connectors that go to the plug for charging the battery are off to one side each. Also make sure you plug in the computer connector and speed sensor connector FIRST as you won't be able once the motor is installed. Watch these cables closely as your moving the motor down, they seem to have about 10 extra feet to them that can get jammed under the motor and crushed. Mount the 2 front bolts into the frame and motor first and keep checking for binding and wiggle the wires to make sure you have them to the sides as to
not crush them as you start to rotate the motor down for the to rear bolt holes. If that is OK then rotate the motor backwards into the 2 rear clamp hole position and bolt those up. Sometimes you have to use a rubber mallet to get this part down in the frame. JUST MAKE SURE the wires are moving freely before doing so. Once you have that done then the rest is simple.
I build very complex things for a living and have a whole state of the art machine and fabrication department. So understandably I can tell you that if you do not have this type of experience you might want to get an electrician to install the pin and your local bike shop to put it back together for you.
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS plug all connectors in with the motor and battery as well as the front computer connector and the rear speed sensor BEFORE BOLTING EVERYTHING BACKUP. If you have done it right the computer will kick on and stay on. Use E-connect on your phone to do a quick diagnosis to make sure all components are fine as it checks when you connect to it via Bluetooth. The rest is general bike knowledge.
