True, but how much of that is just down to how we interpret it ?
I can't help but think It might be on my list for next. "Power" for instance is nice and level to 100 then with a slight drop, but at that cadence, your legs will be in the magic zone.
Orbea Rise vs Levo SL range
- Thread starter kurtshmiddie
- Start date
I can't help but think It might be on my list for next. "Power" for instance is nice and level to 100 then with a slight drop, but at that cadence, your legs will be in the magic zone.
Olof Bike Adventures
Active member
I guess that at peak power, the torque means nothing. You will still have 240W of power and that is what matters in that cadence range.
Olof Bike Adventures
Active member
Just saying that when the motor produces 240W from a cadence of 80 to 110, it doesn't matter if the torque from the motor is 1 Nm or 100 Nm in theory. Work done per second is still the same. I E the slight torque decrease is not noticable and is only of academic interest.
Wow! Training effect, Aerobic 5.0 Anaerobic 4.1 You're an animal
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
More fresh for riding the heavier bike was that?
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
Does anyone know the weight comparisons of both bikes with range extender + extra battery?
Im considering getting one of these bikes
Im considering getting one of these bikes
avg ? With extender? Total km?
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Hi
Sorry, that was without a range extender, just the battery. It´s straight from the GPS but i want to run it through a program i have to get more accurate. 78km. The average speed isn´t right so I need to get that. I´m doing a series of tests with different weights, modes and comparing HR and range to the Wild FS and to a normal bike. The biggest effect we have seen so far is conditions, mud / snow and cold on the first test meant we got about 50% of that.
The lap I did the other day was at 17 km / h, your average will certainly be much lower. However good result
but too much data is missing
I did a comparison test: Orbea Rise M10 custom (carbon wheels, 18,3 Kilo) in Trail mode setup: Support Level 3 (250Watt/38NM), Levo SL Expert (17,8 Kilo) in Trail Mode setup: 45/100 (240Watt/35Nm). Uphill speed 11km/h at 70 Kilo rider input average 200Watt (2,9 Watt/kg via SRM Pedals). Result: Orbea 1912Hm, Levo 1764Hm. Charge input from full empty: Orbea 402Wh, Specialized 349WH. Efficency Orbea: 4,75Hm/WH, Specialized 5,0Hm/WH. So higher efficiency (+5% if i count correct) for the Levo SL, better range for the Orbea due to the bigger capacity of the internal battery.
Uphill was 70% road, 30% gravel, 10% elevation rate average. Uphill length 19 Km, DH length 9 Km (motor off).
Uphill was 70% road, 30% gravel, 10% elevation rate average. Uphill length 19 Km, DH length 9 Km (motor off).
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Thought I’d chime in. I’ve had an orbea rise for 4 months now. I would say I’m in strong cardio shape. People are as fit as me uphill, and people are faster, but I’m always pretty surprised and impressed by it. My wife is a strong rider and a very fit lady, but the ebike almost quantifies our differences in output. She has the same bike and I typically ride about 2 out of 10 power levels higher than her to go the same speed, and get about 20% more range than she would.
Just getting back from a trip, my battery completely died doing 28 miles and 5800 vert in power 2/10 mode 80% of the time 4/10 mode 20% of the time. My wife got 4500 vert in 4/10 mode and 6/10 mode.
Did a 3800 18 mile ride today in power mode 4/10 and just ended up in the red on the battery.
My wife did the same ride in power 6/10 and her battery was basically dead.
I basically set up my power profile based on the ride I’m doing and where I think I can ride and have ample battery to get it done.
For me that’s 6000 in 2/10, 5000 in 4/10, 4000 in 6/10 and 3000 in 8/10. This is rough estimate, I think 7/10 is actually the highest turbo mode I’ve set with full 60nm output.
And my wife would be about 20% less than that. The takeaway is that for rides that are long enough that battery is a concern, the power mode you ride in 80% of the time makes a big difference, and the amount of power you’re adding makes a huge difference. I ride my ebike like my regular bike, and I put a similar amount of power as if I was on my regular bike.
I redline way less because of the motor and the fact that the average climbing trail isn’t steep enough to make me redline with a motor, but today my wife said her heart rate was at 160 as we were cranking uphill.
If you want to be as fit as possible, ride a regular bike for a day on a challenging climb to get that power strength and that redline heart rate and then ride the ebike to get the endurance because today after riding 6000 vert yesterday, and that was cranking in a boring power level 2/10, my legs felt great, which was awesome on a biking road trip.
I still want a 160/150 version of this bike, though! Or just a touch slacker with similar travel! I notice the trail geo vs enduro geo of my regular 160/145 bike, but still hit plenty of jumps and the thing still rips. Small complaints, but on certain trails, I’m happier to have my regular enduro bike!
I digress a little, but just wanted to put some numbers out there as I figure it out and get it dialed in for my personal rides and rides with wife. Can’t find a range extender, that will just be pretty fun.
Just getting back from a trip, my battery completely died doing 28 miles and 5800 vert in power 2/10 mode 80% of the time 4/10 mode 20% of the time. My wife got 4500 vert in 4/10 mode and 6/10 mode.
Did a 3800 18 mile ride today in power mode 4/10 and just ended up in the red on the battery.
My wife did the same ride in power 6/10 and her battery was basically dead.
I basically set up my power profile based on the ride I’m doing and where I think I can ride and have ample battery to get it done.
For me that’s 6000 in 2/10, 5000 in 4/10, 4000 in 6/10 and 3000 in 8/10. This is rough estimate, I think 7/10 is actually the highest turbo mode I’ve set with full 60nm output.
And my wife would be about 20% less than that. The takeaway is that for rides that are long enough that battery is a concern, the power mode you ride in 80% of the time makes a big difference, and the amount of power you’re adding makes a huge difference. I ride my ebike like my regular bike, and I put a similar amount of power as if I was on my regular bike.
I redline way less because of the motor and the fact that the average climbing trail isn’t steep enough to make me redline with a motor, but today my wife said her heart rate was at 160 as we were cranking uphill.
If you want to be as fit as possible, ride a regular bike for a day on a challenging climb to get that power strength and that redline heart rate and then ride the ebike to get the endurance because today after riding 6000 vert yesterday, and that was cranking in a boring power level 2/10, my legs felt great, which was awesome on a biking road trip.
I still want a 160/150 version of this bike, though! Or just a touch slacker with similar travel! I notice the trail geo vs enduro geo of my regular 160/145 bike, but still hit plenty of jumps and the thing still rips. Small complaints, but on certain trails, I’m happier to have my regular enduro bike!
I digress a little, but just wanted to put some numbers out there as I figure it out and get it dialed in for my personal rides and rides with wife. Can’t find a range extender, that will just be pretty fun.
How come you have Cadenza displayed in Connect?
I don't have that! I can see my cadence on the graph in Connect but not the Max & Average...
LOL someone doesn't understand how electricity works, in the case of these kinds of power outputs 48 or 36v makes zero difference, the ells are simply configured differently.
