CjP
PRIME TIME
Ohhh well, I think a bit but unless you undo the bolt to get air in I think it stays put mostly. You can always jamb a small bolt in there. I never did, I just yanked it.
Kenevo Gen1 Official 2020 Kenevo Owners Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
I've just done a set of Codes on a Levo, leaked everywhere. I'd at least partially drain them first.
It's a Mudhugger FR, cut down at the nose and with the extender on the rear. I also had to cut a notch on the drive side, to stop the chain fouling in the lowest gears.
@Tbar
I changed the Code to a MT7 two weeks ago and had no problems by doing this. The barb-connector from Rockshox helped a lot.
I did the front break first, because it's an easy job and the cut-off is the tool, which helps to pull the the new rear hose through the frame.
I took out the coil and the screws of the cableholders in the sidearm of the frame.
After this, I cutted of the Code's hose near the lever because I wanted it as long as possible and pushed it back till it came out of the frames sidearm.
Next I connected it with the off-cutted hose from the front brake and pushed/pulled it back carefully through the motor until I could see the barb connector coming out of the chainstay. After disconnecting them, the tool for getting the new brakehose from the chainstay up to the sidearm is inside the frame.
This method is also useful for the second step through the upper tube.
Really easy and I had no leaks. The brakes were directly ready for use.
I changed the Code to a MT7 two weeks ago and had no problems by doing this. The barb-connector from Rockshox helped a lot.
I did the front break first, because it's an easy job and the cut-off is the tool, which helps to pull the the new rear hose through the frame.
I took out the coil and the screws of the cableholders in the sidearm of the frame.
After this, I cutted of the Code's hose near the lever because I wanted it as long as possible and pushed it back till it came out of the frames sidearm.
Next I connected it with the off-cutted hose from the front brake and pushed/pulled it back carefully through the motor until I could see the barb connector coming out of the chainstay. After disconnecting them, the tool for getting the new brakehose from the chainstay up to the sidearm is inside the frame.
This method is also useful for the second step through the upper tube.
Really easy and I had no leaks. The brakes were directly ready for use.
robwormald
New Member
I picked up my 2020 Kenevo Expert a couple of weeks ago, I had a Stumpjumper 10 years ago but haven't really ridden an MTB properly since then. I've been out on it every single day.
It was good the first two weeks, but today I climbed a local fire road, just an insane slog up a loamy backwoods trail, and took it downhill properly for the first time. Epic.
I've lived in the Santa Cruz Mountains for a few years now and mostly been on motorcycles. This thing opens up a whole new world.
It was good the first two weeks, but today I climbed a local fire road, just an insane slog up a loamy backwoods trail, and took it downhill properly for the first time. Epic.
I've lived in the Santa Cruz Mountains for a few years now and mostly been on motorcycles. This thing opens up a whole new world.
Testing mullet
MrBrownstone
Well-known member
MrBrownstone
Well-known member
Must. Try. A. Kenevo.
Here's another test drive with a mullet. Front tire is Maxxis DHR II 2.3. Pressure 1.5 bar
Have to take one spacer away under the stem.
Tire size can also be 2.4 WT I think.
More precise steering, easier and faster on the root/rocky sections. I'll keep it, until the muddy season starts
Have to take one spacer away under the stem.
Tire size can also be 2.4 WT I think.
More precise steering, easier and faster on the root/rocky sections. I'll keep it, until the muddy season starts
Have you played with the flip-chip? The HA is pretty slack mulleted, right?
One of the drawbacks with the stock bike is the BB height, I think. I have so many pedal strikes and numerous hits of the battery cover on my local trails. Rocky/rooty terrain...
So it is tempting to mullet, flip or both.
Didn't touch the flip-chip. I like slack HA and bike feels so good after reducing stack high of the bar
Did you fit a 29 rim and tyre onto the stock 27.5 fork? I've been considering going 29 on the front to raise the stack height but assumed I would need a new fork.
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Hello guys from Greece,
Hope everyone I safe and healthy!
I had to visit specialized dealer last week because of a motor failure (mag s).
After 800kms suddenly the Kenevo's motor stopped transferring power to the wheels.
No problems until that time.
No messages on the app.
It seems to be the ball bearing transferring the power to the wheels.
New motor coming this week covered on warranty.
Hope to have it on the weekend.
Hope everyone I safe and healthy!
I had to visit specialized dealer last week because of a motor failure (mag s).
After 800kms suddenly the Kenevo's motor stopped transferring power to the wheels.
No problems until that time.
No messages on the app.
It seems to be the ball bearing transferring the power to the wheels.
New motor coming this week covered on warranty.
Hope to have it on the weekend.
MrBrownstone
Well-known member
Another one bites the dust....
Yes, I use the old Marzogghi fork. It still lift the bar upper and I compensate it by removing one spacer under the stem.
BrockDM
New Member
For those of you that have changed dropper posts:
Did you replace the cable housing as well? My LBS managed to jam my housing down into the frame tube and it's all wound up and twisted now to the point where I need to replace it. I tried to pull it through but it appears it is snug in place. Do you need to remove the motor in order to swap cable housings? It looks like the housing runs down towards the motor but I can't tell if it is actually gong under it or not.
Did you replace the cable housing as well? My LBS managed to jam my housing down into the frame tube and it's all wound up and twisted now to the point where I need to replace it. I tried to pull it through but it appears it is snug in place. Do you need to remove the motor in order to swap cable housings? It looks like the housing runs down towards the motor but I can't tell if it is actually gong under it or not.
Anyone with an expert able to verify the boxxer setting as per the sram manual? I don't know if this is the measurement to use with them being OEM. Mine is about 155mm at present.
You don't need to remove the motor, but you will need some deft handiwork! The cable housing comes down the sidearm, does a loop above the motor, then heads back up the seat tube. What you'll need to do is thread the housing in at the head tube, through the top tube and out at the sidearm (relatively easy). Then you'll want a piece of wire, with a loop in the end, pushed down the seat tube, ready to hook the cable housing as you push it through. You then need to pull the cable housing up the seat tube before pushing at both ends, which forces it down to create the loop above the motor housing.
That or get an AXS dropper! ?
CjP
PRIME TIME
Brothers S3 is 157mm
That's really useful thanks. My about 155mm is also 157mm now I've measured more accurately.
I wonder why the difference between OEM and retail 200mm boxxers? I had assumed just a shorter airspring.
Actually 156mm is the measurement for the upto 2018 models now I've checked. At least they seem correct anyway.
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Does anyone know, if Kenovo 2019 hanger fits to 2020 model?
No, different mech hanger on the new frame.
Thanks CJ
Now after I have ridden Mullet Kenovo couple of weeks, I can say it's the best combination for a smaller guy.
My Kenovo size is S3
Bike parks, rocky and rooty trails it's much better combination.
My Kenovo size is S3
Bike parks, rocky and rooty trails it's much better combination.
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Thanks for your thoughts.
How tall are you? It is very tempting to test the mullet set-up. The 27.5" lack roll-over ability over the 29".
Yes, the roll-over abilty is much more better.
I'm 176 cm tall or should I say small.
Batesyripper
Member
Please does anyone know the maximum seatpost insertion length on the S3? Thanks in advance?
CjP
PRIME TIME
About 220mm
Update to my Mullet project.
Just installed Michelin Wild Enduro 2.4. Clearance is ....hmmm. enough. Not for a mud ride, but good for other rides.
Hope the steering stays as precise as with 2.3 size tyre...tire...what ever.
Just installed Michelin Wild Enduro 2.4. Clearance is ....hmmm. enough. Not for a mud ride, but good for other rides.
Hope the steering stays as precise as with 2.3 size tyre...tire...what ever.
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