Choppersquad
Member
Hi there.
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket bleed kit for the MT7's? Is it worth going genuine Magura?
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket bleed kit for the MT7's? Is it worth going genuine Magura?
Yeah, I can’t explain it. I’ve installed several Mt7’s and we all increased the rotor size to 220mm f/r also. Maybe it’s the long descents on this mountain …who knows? After losing braking on 203mm rotors and Shimano 4 piston’s (quite an experience) I switched to Mt7’s and 220mm rotors.…but if a quick mini bleed can help things that sounds good to me.
I’m not sure if I’ve done the correct (full) bleed procedure after the initial install but a short bumpy ride seemed necessary to free-up some trapped air in the system. Maybe some trapped air in the calliper(s). A mini-bleed at the master cylinder (lever) released a few more bubbles of air …then the levers weren’t spongy anymore.
At least once every ten rides (+/-) I need to do a “mini-bleed” at the master cylinder (lever). The lever is back to normal after that. Hydraulic brakes are suppose to be a closed system but somehow a small amount of air gets in there. Maybe, when the callipers heat up some air is sucked in through the pistons. No leaks though, anywhere, that I can see.
Anyways, a mini-bleed solves the problem and only takes a few minutes and little bit of Royal Blood. I flick, pump and tilt the lever until no more bubbles rise into the funnel or syringe.
That’s what the guy does in the video I sharedI like a nice firm lever and was carrying out a mini lever bleed on a fairly regular basis to achieve this. However, I then stumbled upon another simple trick that does the job much quicker
So, to get a nice firm lever pull, try this … Remove one brake pad, pull the lever slightly to move the piston in a few mm, replace pad. Repeat process for all three other pads on calliper. It works, and is quite obvious why really, saves messing around with Royal Blood
Hey! I might try that.I like a nice firm lever and was carrying out a mini lever bleed on a fairly regular basis to achieve this. However, I then stumbled upon another simple trick that does the job much quicker
So, to get a nice firm lever pull, try this … Remove one brake pad, pull the lever slightly to move the piston in a few mm, replace pad. Repeat process for all three other pads on calliper. It works, and is quite obvious why really, saves messing around with Royal Blood
That’s what the guy does in the video I shared
That was a very helpful video so many thanks for posting that. In it he mentioned always buying the four separate pads rather than two sets of two joined together. Does this really make a difference and can anyone recommend some good general pads?
Why not the genuine Magura 8.S (Sport) pads as recommended by Magura for ebikes?That was a very helpful video so many thanks for posting that. In it he mentioned always buying the four separate pads rather than two sets of two joined together. Does this really make a difference and can anyone recommend some good general pads?
If you need to use the "extend the pistons one at a time" trick to remove excess clearance, then I think your pistons need cleaning.
First I hear of this. How do you bleed the air out of the calliper? I just did a mini lever bleed, neighbour’s bike, yesterday and pumped out lots of air into the funnel. Where the heck does all this air come from? No noticeable leaks anywhere …none. But after 20+ rides I will probably do it again. My Mt7’s are the same. A mini bleed only takes a few minutes but the only way, I can see, is evaporation of fluid through the pistons because of heat. Is that even possible?I use the park tool bleed kit, but I only use the funnel and I do a gravity bleed rather than pushing fluid through with the syringes. I find this the easiest method and I always get a perfect bleed. Beware when bleeding MTs if using syringes, don't push the fluid through from the calliper as you run the risk of breaking a seal at the lever, this happened to me when I got my first set (6 years ago). Nothing I did would get a bleed that would last as air was getting in (but no sign of leaks)...I sent the brake to Magura and the lever was replaced under warranty.
With the funnel attached and full of fluid, remove the calliper from the frame, remove the bleed port screw and let the fluid run through, moving the calliper around so that air that is trapped can be released. I find that half a funnel is more than enough to get air out of the rear brake.First I hear of this. How do you bleed the air out of the calliper?
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