Magura Mt7 bleed kit

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I’m not sure if I’ve done the correct (full) bleed procedure after the initial install but a short bumpy ride seemed necessary to free-up some trapped air in the system. Maybe some trapped air in the calliper(s). A mini-bleed at the master cylinder (lever) released a few more bubbles of air …then the levers weren’t spongy anymore.
At least once every ten rides (+/-) I need to do a “mini-bleed” at the master cylinder (lever). The lever is back to normal after that. Hydraulic brakes are suppose to be a closed system but somehow a small amount of air gets in there. Maybe, when the callipers heat up some air is sucked in through the pistons. No leaks though, anywhere, that I can see.
Anyways, a mini-bleed solves the problem and only takes a few minutes and little bit of Royal Blood. I flick, pump and tilt the lever until no more bubbles rise into the funnel or syringe.
 
Nice tip. I've not really looked at how easy a main bleed is yet because I'm still waiting for the bike, but if a quick mini bleed can help things that sounds good to me.
 
 
Choppersquad said:
…but if a quick mini bleed can help things that sounds good to me.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I can’t explain it. I’ve installed several Mt7’s and we all increased the rotor size to 220mm f/r also. Maybe it’s the long descents on this mountain …who knows? After losing braking on 203mm rotors and Shimano 4 piston’s (quite an experience) I switched to Mt7’s and 220mm rotors.
Anyways, pump my brakes and lube the chain…good to go!👍🏻
 
Stihldog said:
I’m not sure if I’ve done the correct (full) bleed procedure after the initial install but a short bumpy ride seemed necessary to free-up some trapped air in the system. Maybe some trapped air in the calliper(s). A mini-bleed at the master cylinder (lever) released a few more bubbles of air …then the levers weren’t spongy anymore.
At least once every ten rides (+/-) I need to do a “mini-bleed” at the master cylinder (lever). The lever is back to normal after that. Hydraulic brakes are suppose to be a closed system but somehow a small amount of air gets in there. Maybe, when the callipers heat up some air is sucked in through the pistons. No leaks though, anywhere, that I can see.
Anyways, a mini-bleed solves the problem and only takes a few minutes and little bit of Royal Blood. I flick, pump and tilt the lever until no more bubbles rise into the funnel or syringe.
Click to expand...

I like a nice firm lever and was carrying out a mini lever bleed on a fairly regular basis to achieve this. However, I then stumbled upon another simple trick that does the job much quicker

So, to get a nice firm lever pull, try this … Remove one brake pad, pull the lever slightly to move the piston in a few mm, replace pad. Repeat process for all three other pads on calliper. It works, and is quite obvious why really, saves messing around with Royal Blood
 
Tubby G said:
I like a nice firm lever and was carrying out a mini lever bleed on a fairly regular basis to achieve this. However, I then stumbled upon another simple trick that does the job much quicker

So, to get a nice firm lever pull, try this … Remove one brake pad, pull the lever slightly to move the piston in a few mm, replace pad. Repeat process for all three other pads on calliper. It works, and is quite obvious why really, saves messing around with Royal Blood
Click to expand...
That’s what the guy does in the video I shared 😂
 
Tubby G said:
I like a nice firm lever and was carrying out a mini lever bleed on a fairly regular basis to achieve this. However, I then stumbled upon another simple trick that does the job much quicker

So, to get a nice firm lever pull, try this … Remove one brake pad, pull the lever slightly to move the piston in a few mm, replace pad. Repeat process for all three other pads on calliper. It works, and is quite obvious why really, saves messing around with Royal Blood
Click to expand...
Hey! I might try that. 👍🏻
 
That was a very helpful video so many thanks for posting that. In it he mentioned always buying the four separate pads rather than two sets of two joined together. Does this really make a difference and can anyone recommend some good general pads?
 
Choppersquad said:
That was a very helpful video so many thanks for posting that. In it he mentioned always buying the four separate pads rather than two sets of two joined together. Does this really make a difference and can anyone recommend some good general pads?
Click to expand...

I’ve been getting mine from DiscoBrakes recently, great value, especially if you buy the set of 4:

 
I have but not used yet a set of the purple brake pads from Galfer otherwise been using Magura’s official pads & set of Nukeproof ones have mixed them up in the caliper
 
I installed MT7s with 220 rotors front and rear 2 years ago. I bled them as part of normal installation and have not needed to bleed them since. The levers have never gone mushy.

If you need to use the "extend the pistons one at a time" trick to remove excess clearance, then I think your pistons need cleaning. I clean mine about twice a year with Royal Blood on a Q-Tip. Extend them as far as you dare, wipe them with the Q-Tip, push them back in. Repeat until the Q-Tip no longer picks up any crud.

FWIW, I use very small c-clamps to work on one piston at a time.
 
Choppersquad said:
That was a very helpful video so many thanks for posting that. In it he mentioned always buying the four separate pads rather than two sets of two joined together. Does this really make a difference and can anyone recommend some good general pads?
Click to expand...
Why not the genuine Magura 8.S (Sport) pads as recommended by Magura for ebikes?
They come with the 2 fixing screws and some retailer or eBay shop always has a deal on them.
 
RebornRider said:
If you need to use the "extend the pistons one at a time" trick to remove excess clearance, then I think your pistons need cleaning.
Click to expand...


DING DING DING DING DING DING DING!!!

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner!

Pistons extend automatically when they overcome the friction of the rectangular o-ring.
If the o-ring has become hard, or if there is excessive crud on the surfaces, the piston will not extend.
 
I saw those piston freeing plastic blocks on line the other day where it holds in three of the pistons and let's the other sticking one extend when you gently pull the lever. Might get one of those in case.
 
R3pro 3D print’s a few things for Magura brakes. I think he’s based in the UK but there was no problem mailing to here.
The piece of gum was found on the floor by me.😉

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The Park bleed kit, which has attachments for pretty much every major brake manufacturer (and some cool features) works well for me, though it's a bit pricy. There is one of mineral oil and one for DOT fluid.
 
I use the park tool bleed kit, but I only use the funnel and I do a gravity bleed rather than pushing fluid through with the syringes. I find this the easiest method and I always get a perfect bleed. Beware when bleeding MTs if using syringes, don't push the fluid through from the calliper as you run the risk of breaking a seal at the lever, this happened to me when I got my first set (6 years ago). Nothing I did would get a bleed that would last as air was getting in (but no sign of leaks)...I sent the brake to Magura and the lever was replaced under warranty.
 
stressballsteve said:
I use the park tool bleed kit, but I only use the funnel and I do a gravity bleed rather than pushing fluid through with the syringes. I find this the easiest method and I always get a perfect bleed. Beware when bleeding MTs if using syringes, don't push the fluid through from the calliper as you run the risk of breaking a seal at the lever, this happened to me when I got my first set (6 years ago). Nothing I did would get a bleed that would last as air was getting in (but no sign of leaks)...I sent the brake to Magura and the lever was replaced under warranty.
Click to expand...
First I hear of this. How do you bleed the air out of the calliper? I just did a mini lever bleed, neighbour’s bike, yesterday and pumped out lots of air into the funnel. Where the heck does all this air come from? No noticeable leaks anywhere …none. But after 20+ rides I will probably do it again. My Mt7’s are the same. A mini bleed only takes a few minutes but the only way, I can see, is evaporation of fluid through the pistons because of heat. Is that even possible?
 
Stihldog said:
First I hear of this. How do you bleed the air out of the calliper?
Click to expand...
With the funnel attached and full of fluid, remove the calliper from the frame, remove the bleed port screw and let the fluid run through, moving the calliper around so that air that is trapped can be released. I find that half a funnel is more than enough to get air out of the rear brake.
I first saw this method here: (889) THE SYNDICATE - Pit Tips - Brake Bleeding - YouTube
I have also found that if the hose isn't cut cleanly and straight air can get in but you never see fluid leaking.
 
A few more tips in that vid also. Water down and rub the new pads 👍🏻.
I had a fun experience while bleeding a Shimano calliper once. I left the plunger in the funnel while pressing fluid into the calliper with a syringe. Plastic hose fitting blew. Mineral oil is good for your facial skin…but not your eyes 😳🙃. Needed a few shop towels too.
 
I bought the Borgen bleed kit from Amazon in the end. Seems pretty good though I haven't actually used it yet. Comes in a plastic box so hopefully I won't lose any of the bits😀.
 
I use the epic bleed kit for my MT5’s. I use the blue mineral oil even though i got more shimano red mineral oil. Shimano say you can not mix the 2 even though they are both “mineral” oil. Probably a lie but i dare not try anyway 😂. Pretty sure juice lubes do their own variant of mineral oil which will work on both shimano and magura
 
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