Forbidden Druid - Avinox Powered

Did you bump the front travel to 160mm? I feel like that balances the bike better even with the lite's 140mm rear. Makes me wonder how good the core would be with 170mm up front but that may make the cockpit feel cramped.
Not yet. I do agree though. Before I do something really silly/expensive my plan is to test my older mezzer at 150 and 160. Mezzer is really good at holding its dynamic ride height.

Yeah 170mm could make this pretty cramped for me on a s3 at 6’1, though atm I am running like 25mm spacers under the bars (it came like that and I have bothered to change as I like the stack). I have also toyed with running a 45-50mm stem and/or higher rise bars

So many things to try!
 
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Not yet. I do agree though. Before I do something really silly/expensive my plan is to test my older mezzer at 150 and 160. Mezzer is really good at holding its dynamic ride height.

Yeah 170mm could make this pretty cramped for me on a s3 at 6’1, though atm I am running like 25mm spacers under the bars (it came like that and I have bothered to change as I like the stack). I have also toyed with running a 45-50mm stem and/or higher rise bars

So many things to try!

Now that the honey moon is over. I feel like the high stack makes the front end feel vague sometimes and it also makes the front end get knocked side to side in chunk. I've already taken off 10mm of headset spacers(bike came stock with 25mm) and that has helped somewhat. Next thing I want to try is swapping the charger 3.1 to the mrp lift v2 damper from a previous bike and running a bit more sag 25%. The other thing I'm not feeling is the rear suspension under heavy braking. Riding low speed tech feels like the rear shock has it's lockout on. Thinking of things to try like less aggressive rear pad and smaller rotor maybe.
 
Anyone have issues getting a shock pump to seal on the rear shock for the LitE? I tried both my Fox and my old YT pump and both leak all the air out. I'm at a loss, it was straight and tightly threaded on. Thoughts?
 
Now that the honey moon is over. I feel like the high stack makes the front end feel vague sometimes and it also makes the front end get knocked side to side in chunk. I've already taken off 10mm of headset spacers(bike came stock with 25mm) and that has helped somewhat. Next thing I want to try is swapping the charger 3.1 to the mrp lift v2 damper from a previous bike and running a bit more sag 25%. The other thing I'm not feeling is the rear suspension under heavy braking. Riding low speed tech feels like the rear shock has it's lockout on. Thinking of things to try like less aggressive rear pad and smaller rotor maybe.
I guess we are all different. On my s2 I have shortened the stem by 5mm and added 10 mm of rise in the bars. This has centered me a better and the front now feels way less vague. Effectively the opposite of what you have done to achieve the same result. Also I am thinking of trying a 220 rotor in the front although tbh the brakes really feel pretty dam good but you can always improve right?
 
Now that the honey moon is over. I feel like the high stack makes the front end feel vague sometimes and it also makes the front end get knocked side to side in chunk. I've already taken off 10mm of headset spacers(bike came stock with 25mm) and that has helped somewhat. Next thing I want to try is swapping the charger 3.1 to the mrp lift v2 damper from a previous bike and running a bit more sag 25%. The other thing I'm not feeling is the rear suspension under heavy braking. Riding low speed tech feels like the rear shock has it's lockout on. Thinking of things to try like less aggressive rear pad and smaller rotor maybe.
I feel like the high stack benefits out weigh the downsides for me. It’s probably the combo of geo (long cs) and kinematic too. I occasionally feel in janky cornering that it can be a bit less precise , but most corners, I prefer this to any other bike I have ridden

The lyrik feels good climbing , small bump, and has ok support in the steeps. The more I think about it, the more I am leaning to try mezzer at different lengths to see if the dynamic ride height and mid stroke are better.

I will have to pay more attention during braking. Overall, the feedback at the feet is less than I have felt before. Really liked it so far. I need a full ride to confirm , but I do think the rear feels better with more compression than I am used to. I have the select plus so it’s just “compression “ rather than than lsc or hsc
 
I feel like the high stack benefits out weigh the downsides for me. It’s probably the combo of geo (long cs) and kinematic too. I occasionally feel in janky cornering that it can be a bit less precise , but most corners, I prefer this to any other bike I have ridden

The lyrik feels good climbing , small bump, and has ok support in the steeps. The more I think about it, the more I am leaning to try mezzer at different lengths to see if the dynamic ride height and mid stroke are better.

I will have to pay more attention during braking. Overall, the feedback at the feet is less than I have felt before. Really liked it so far. I need a full ride to confirm , but I do think the rear feels better with more compression than I am used to. I have the select plus so it’s just “compression “ rather than than lsc or hsc
Before doing all, THAT, maybe swap out the lyrik. Going to a Zeb made a world of difference in control, didnt relize how much the lyrik probably flexed. (And this is from someone who likes the lyrik!)
 
Now that the honey moon is over. I feel like the high stack makes the front end feel vague sometimes and it also makes the front end get knocked side to side in chunk. I've already taken off 10mm of headset spacers(bike came stock with 25mm) and that has helped somewhat. Next thing I want to try is swapping the charger 3.1 to the mrp lift v2 damper from a previous bike and running a bit more sag 25%. The other thing I'm not feeling is the rear suspension under heavy braking. Riding low speed tech feels like the rear shock has it's lockout on. Thinking of things to try like less aggressive rear pad and smaller rotor maybe.
The feeling you have under brakes is just a trait of the high pivot Idler setup. My Deviate does the same under brakes on rough stuff, you just need to learn and adapt your riding and braking style to it

What size stem are you running? Mine feels super direct but it's got a short burgtec stem, I'm actually thinking of swapping it to a longer one.
 
Anyone have issues getting a shock pump to seal on the rear shock for the LitE? I tried both my Fox and my old YT pump and both leak all the air out. I'm at a loss, it was straight and tightly threaded on. Thoughts?
Well I took it to my lbs and they found a small hairline crack near the base of the Schrader valve so we will attempt a warranty replacement but unclear if they will approve. Bike hasn't even gotten a first ride yet. 😟
 
Before doing all, THAT, maybe swap out the lyrik. Going to a Zeb made a world of difference in control, didnt relize how much the lyrik probably flexed. (And this is from someone who likes the lyrik!)
Haha yeah.. well I put my mezzer on this morning which is at 170mm right now (but with some more negative chamber /sag so closer to 160mm dynamically ). Rode it around the yard and it’s definitely different . Need to do a real ride to quantify, but I think the longer front center and presumably a bit more weight takes more body English to manual. Feels more enduro-y
 
The feeling you have under brakes is just a trait of the high pivot Idler setup. My Deviate does the same under brakes on rough stuff, you just need to learn and adapt your riding and braking style to it

What size stem are you running? Mine feels super direct but it's got a short burgtec stem, I'm actually thinking of swapping it to a longer one.
Agree, I've been trying to adapt but it's not easy coming from a four bar Levo SL. For the stem I'm on the stock oneup stem. I think a longer one would help me more than a shorter stem.
 
Edit: I am a bit confused after measuring Q-factor myself (frame center to outer edge of crank and multiply 2). My Orbea Rise LT measures around 164mm. Druid CorE measure more around 180mm. While I might be wrong on how I measured, it is definitely the case that Rise LT's Q-factor is narrower than Druid CorE.

--
Anyone having trouble adjusting to short & narrow crankset of Druid CorE? Crank set length is 150mm and Q-Factor is 170mm (according to Praxsis site). I am having knee pain riding Druid CorE and I am not sure if this is due to short crank or Q-Factor or both. I am coming from Orbea Rise LT (165mm crank with Q-factor 177mm).

I was thinking to change it to a carbon version of Praxis type 2 since their web site says Q factor for carbon is 178mm on Avinox motor. I don't need or even like carbon cranks, but I want something that matches previous Q-factor.

AVINOX
CARB Q = 178mm
ALLOY Q = 170mm
 
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Anyone has trouble adjusting to short & narrow crankset of Druid CorE? Crank set length is 150mm and Q-Factor is 170mm. I am having knee pain riding Druid CorE and I am not sure if this is due to short crank or narrow Q-Factor or both. I am coming from Orbea Rise LT (165mm crank with Q-factor 177mm).

I was thinking to change it to Crabon version of Praxis type 2 since their web site says Q factor for Carbon is 178mm on Avinox motor. I don't need or even like carbon version, but I want something that matches previous Q-factor.

AVINOX
CARB Q = 178mm
ALLOY Q = 170mm
The major issue that the Q-Factor presents for people is wear and tear on the knee joints. The term Q-Factor actually derives from biomechanics and is the angle from the hip to the knee. Females typically have a greater Q angle due to having wider hips to deal with child birth. A common issue for female athletes who engage in high volume repetive events like running and jumping is that the greater Q angle places greater stress on patellar tracking leading to chondromalacia patella (softening and wearing of the back of the kneecap and then associated pain). They also suffer much higher rates of patellar dislocation when compared to men for this reason.

I played lots of water polo when young and the treading water action meant I had strong thighs, but also led to an imbalance between the inner quads and outer quads. As a result I had patellar tracking issues which let to chondromalacia patella. Did lots of specific muscle strengthening exercises and taping, but it's trouble me ever since. I've also had the backs of the patellas shaved to smooth them off, but the damage has been done and knee replacments are in my future.

Where I really notice it is when I ride my fat bike (Norco VLT Bigfoot) and with the wider stance, if I do big km's, my knees get really achy behind the knee caps. Can't do the same km's as I do on my normal mtb with the narrower stance and can't do repeated days on the bike.

Still trying to work that one out! Not sure I can "narrow" the Q-factor on the fatty, the frame and motor dictate the width. Perhaps a different crank set that are don't flare a bit? I run flats so cleats aren't an issue, just try to keep my feet as close to the cranks as possible.

So if you're getting knee pain from this particular bike, you might want to play with stance width to get your optimal Q-Factor and play around with cranks and spacers. A lot easier on a mtb than a Phatty!
 
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That actually sounds good for me. I tend to use wider pedals anyways and I have my feet off center to the outer part of the pedal.. a little bit more q factor sounds good... although my old ebike already had 168mm..
 
Edit: I am a bit confused after measuring Q-factor myself (frame center to outer edge of crank and multiply 2). My Orbea Rise LT measures around 164mm. Druid CorE measure more around 180mm. While I might be wrong on how I measured, it is definitely the case that Rise LT's Q-factor is narrower than Druid CorE.

--
Anyone having trouble adjusting to short & narrow crankset of Druid CorE? Crank set length is 150mm and Q-Factor is 170mm (according to Praxsis site). I am having knee pain riding Druid CorE and I am not sure if this is due to short crank or Q-Factor or both. I am coming from Orbea Rise LT (165mm crank with Q-factor 177mm).

I was thinking to change it to a carbon version of Praxis type 2 since their web site says Q factor for carbon is 178mm on Avinox motor. I don't need or even like carbon cranks, but I want something that matches previous Q-factor.

AVINOX
CARB Q = 178mm
ALLOY Q = 170mm
You could try the new Wolftooth Clipless with adjustable Q.
 
I’ve had a few bb/motor strikes and chainring too. Anyone running a bash on the chainring?

FORBIDDEN Druid Core und Lite - Erfahrungsaustausch / Umbauten / Tipps & Tricks

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which diameter chainring guard did you get? Also how are you liking the flash blackline? I just ordered the flash 38 and excited to try it. Had a Fox Podium on my bike but already had to warranty it after 3 rides for leaking lots of oil
150mm

It is a Hero Blackline and it is perfect for my riding style and weight (74kg). Never had a better fork (I owned RS Lyrik, Fox 36/38, Manitou Mezzer, Öhlins RXF36, EXT Era 2.1) and the Intend is the best of all forks.

For heavier or aggressive riders Edge or Flash is more suitable.

Flash 38 😱.
 
Was looking into the Flash38 as well for the Druid with me weighing around 95kg (210lbs), but since the Edge felt already stiff enough on my pedalbike I don't see a reason to go beyond the Flash 35.. the 38 Flash just weighs too much for my liking (more than 300g more than a ZEB).. the looks though... top notch!
 
Was looking into the Flash38 as well for the Druid with me weighing around 95kg (210lbs), but since the Edge felt already stiff enough on my pedalbike I don't see a reason to go beyond the Flash 35.. the 38 Flash just weighs too much for my liking (more than 300g more than a ZEB).. the looks though... top notch!
Intresting, I weigh about the same without gear but trying to lose some weight this winter. Flash 38 should be crazy stiff and didn't mind the extra weight difference being on the ebike. I'm actually saving about 100g compared to the podium
 
I don't know if Intend ever released any information on how high the torsional stiffness of their forks is, but they always state, that it is "stiff enough". If you fix the front wheel between your legs and turn the handlebars with some force you can easily see that the torsional flex is existent and a lot higher than on a ZEB for instance. You are easily able to twist the the fork by some degrees while on a ZEB that needs a lot of input..
The question is rather if you can even feel that stiffness or lack of while riding. There are not so many cases where you are pulling with full force on your handlebars to make the front wheel go where you want it to go while it is hooked up somewhere. I tend to believe that at least the Edge is not as precise as a ZEB because it sure does deflect off of rocks to a certain degree, but that is not a negative point for me. It adds comfort to the ride. And right before all those ZEBs and 38s not many ppl thought their 35mm/36mm 180mm forks were not stiff enough :)
Where you DO feel the added stiffness is in the fore/after stiffness while braking.. the fork stays super supple, where my ZEBs and 38s become noticeable harsher
 
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any suggest on vivid setup? It eats up the mid travel very easily and the result is that I frequently get pedal strikes

75 kg geared
 
Run less sag seems to be the sweet spot, 30% worked well on mine and I have Comp/Rebound set to the suggested settings in the guide.


Not had enough time to play with setup yet but that's tomorrow's job on some proper steep and tech Enduro trails
 
TLDR - lyrik more comfortable on typical trails plus feels more happy to jump. Mezzer at 170mm more enduro-y , composed, better at steep tech and fast hits

Some thoughts after riding with my mezzer at 170mm (25% sag) on my lite (still stock SD at 140mm):

Geo feels pretty good. Bike definitively feels longer front center , and subsequently harder to unweight the front end. Practically, it’s not major, but feels closer to my enduro bike which makes sense

Mezzer definitely wins in the steep and big compressions. It’s always been a good fork for support . The lyrik wins in small bump and compliance . It’s a pretty good feeling fork, but gives ups its travel pretty readily.

Next step is to not be lazy and actually try at 160mm, which could be the sweet spot. I am “intending” to buy an intend (flash 35 with shorter airspring most likely ) but not fully committed yet. Then time to puzzle over the rear 😆
 
yes, throw it in the trash, buy a fast fenix 2 and increase the mid speed compression
I am curious how people are finding coils. My experience is that this bike gives up travel readily at the suggested sags (feeling pretty good the whole way though). I am already a bit over the recommended pressure for my weight .

My thoughts on the coil would be better better midstroke due to the linear nature of coil, but I wouldn’t even consider a shock without hbo or some other clever bottom out support
 
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