Forbidden DreadNought E

[iJak]

@ntm95 Avinox just announced a new bike with external battery attachment of 480wh @ 2.49kg thats another 380g / 0.8 lbs of weight savings. Dimensions are the same as the 600/800, just shorter, however connectors are different. For me this would be the ideal setup and I'm sure it would be for you too if there's way to retrofit that in there

 

[EMTB718]

Will be interesting to see what the Rep has to say, especially if its installer error ie. the shop ain't getting it right!! Could be a bit of embarrassment happening there!! Keep us posted...

So here is an update. Looks like the shop was able to fix the shifting issue. I would not All it 100% but around 90%, maybe little more as 10th to 11th gear shifts but sometimes it hesitates or takes bit longer. At minimum, it's shifting and even Smooth Shift is also working now.

The shop reached out to their Sram Rep and they were no help from what I can tell. Sram rep was supposed to come by but never did and kept on delaying. Supposedly sram gave the shop some advice but didn't fix the issue. I advise the shop to reach out to Forbidden as I also have reached out to them couple of times. Forbidden said it was setting issue. Shop did reach out to the Forbidden and they gave the shop some advise and looks like it worked.

Not sure exactly what they did but from what shop told me, they had to pull the derailleur further out as they were setting. Supposedly derailleur or jockey wheel was too far out or too low when shifting from 10th to 11th. As mentioned mentioned, I think it had something to do with trying to mimic sagging when setting/aligning the derailleur.
They also told me another person had to look at the jockey wheel to see how far it was out/away as they were setting or something like that.

My assumption is, when setting derailleur, you have to pull it back as much as you can or even pull back further where the jockey wheel may flex/bend (not actually bending).

I have installed T-type in the past with no issues but don't understand all the mechanics when the derailleur is pulled further out when setting.

I did hear from Forbidden that there are/were some issues with T-type and Dreadnought E but with correct setting, it will work.

Didn't realize it was such a headache.

There is no doubt Dreadnought E is an awesome bike to ride but being so sensitive to T-type, not sure if I would buy it again and have to deal with shifting issues or potential shifting issues. My main concern is for what ever reason, what if I had to realign the derailleur again? May have to take the bike to the shop again which is a big hassle. Would just rather fix/adjust myself if I can as the shop is about an hour away from me. Try 1.5 hours+ with traffic.

At end of the day, glad it's working now.

 

[ntm95]

So here is an update. Looks like the shop was able to fix the shifting issue. I would not All it 100% but around 90%, maybe little more as 10th to 11th gear shifts but sometimes it hesitates or takes bit longer. At minimum, it's shifting and even Smooth Shift is also working now.

The shop reached out to their Sram Rep and they were no help from what I can tell. Sram rep was supposed to come by but never did and kept on delaying. Supposedly sram gave the shop some advice but didn't fix the issue. I advise the shop to reach out to Forbidden as I also have reached out to them couple of times. Forbidden said it was setting issue. Shop did reach out to the Forbidden and they gave the shop some advise and looks like it worked.

Not sure exactly what they did but from what shop told me, they had to pull the derailleur further out as they were setting. Supposedly derailleur or jockey wheel was too far out or too low when shifting from 10th to 11th. As mentioned mentioned, I think it had something to do with trying to mimic sagging when setting/aligning the derailleur.
They also told me another person had to look at the jockey wheel to see how far it was out/away as they were setting or something like that.

My assumption is, when setting derailleur, you have to pull it back as much as you can or even pull back further where the jockey wheel may flex/bend (not actually bending).

I have installed T-type in the past with no issues but don't understand all the mechanics when the derailleur is pulled further out when setting.

I did hear from Forbidden that there are/were some issues with T-type and Dreadnought E but with correct setting, it will work.

Didn't realize it was such a headache.

There is no doubt Dreadnought E is an awesome bike to ride but being so sensitive to T-type, not sure if I would buy it again and have to deal with shifting issues or potential shifting issues. My main concern is for what ever reason, what if I had to realign the derailleur again? May have to take the bike to the shop again which is a big hassle. Would just rather fix/adjust myself if I can as the shop is about an hour away from me. Try 1.5 hours+ with traffic.

At end of the day, glad it's working now.

Again, it’s not terribly sensitive to setup.
I believe it is specifically yours, very likely the issue is with the derailleur.
Have you tried another derailleur yet ?

Forbidden does have a lower guide pulley available for the e-dread now too, which improved shifting for some on the acoustic dreadnought v2.

 

[Tokidokijake]

how are people feeling with their tier 1 builds?all the reviews I see are on tier 2. Has anyone changed out the coil? Or wish they wild have gone with the tier 2? I see tier 1 builds for sale while tier 2 is all sold out. I wonder if that’s the build or just the color?

 

[EMTB718]

how are people feeling with their tier 1 builds?all the reviews I see are on tier 2. Has anyone changed out the coil? Or wish they wild have gone with the tier 2? I see tier 1 builds for sale while tier 2 is all sold out. I wonder if that’s the build or just the color?

I have T1 build and yes, I had to change the coil spring as S2 came with 350 Lbs spring. I needed to change out to 425 Lbs spring. Unfortunately, I couldn't take off the spring myself so had to take the coil shock to local bike shop and had them replace the coil only. It needs special tool to take off the eye so you can take out the springs.
As for regret, other the real headache with the derailleur issue, I am happy with T1 build. Zeb Ultimate is awesome. It's soooooo plush and supple. Haven't tried T2 build so I can't compare but I do have Amflow PL Carbon Pro (different type of ebike) which I upgraded to Fox 38 Factory Grip X2 in 170mm (2025 model) and if I was to compare the fork, Zeb is definitely more plush and supple. Not sure how it compares to Fox 38 Factory Grip X2 (My27).

Main reason why I got the T1 build vs T2 build.
1. Color
2. Wanted to try coil setup and heard great things about the new Zeb Ultimate and Vivid Coil Shock and glad I did.
3. Better components in general including Crank Brothers Carbon Wheelset.
-Sram Maven Ultimate vs Silver with better rotors.
-Fast charger
-Better derailleur/group set XO vs GX/cranks
-One up Dropper Post.

Lots of these things are minor but overall, it's definitely worth paying extra $1400

Things I like about Dreadnought E.
1. It so plush and supple. It literally feels like you are riding on the cloud.
2. Extremely stable at high speed.
2. It will go over things like rock garden or chunky areas with no issues.
3. Bike feels like it's glued to the ground. Definitely in different league than Amflow PL Carbon Pro I have.
4. It's just great bike to ride. I don't know how else to put it.

Things I am not fond of on Dreadnought E.

1. Bit heavier than Mondraker Zendit and Pivot Amp'd
2. Cranks are 150mm-I am not tall by any means but 150mm cranks feels really weird to pedal so I end up changing out to 155mm (eThirteen). I also ride regularly MTB which is 170mm cranks so maybe that's why. My Amflow PL has 155mm and even that feels weird after riding MTB.
3. Can't change to 29 in the rear. MX is fine but would like to have an option to put 29 in the rear like other ebikes.
4. BB is bit low. It's 340.8mm and I personally want at least 345mm I know changing out the cranks to 155mm doesn't help but that's why I want bit more higher BB. I just can't get use to 150mm cranks. I am getting some pedal strikes here and there. 4mm doesn't seem much but definitely does make a difference.

In terms of motor power, I really can't tell if it's faster or more power than Amflow Pl Carbon Pro. Dreadnought E takes off or rides off bit heavy. It may have to do with weight of the bike + DH Casing tires which are heavier than what's on my Amflow which EXO + casing.