Focus Jam2 6.8 Nine Motor removal

[Marquez93]

Hi All,
My first post...
I have to replace the plastic trim that holds the rubber cover/charge port on the Jam2.
As part of the task I have to remove the Bosch motor.
Has anyone done this that can advise of any pitfalls to avoid?
Cheers

 

[Peaky Rider]

Hi All,
My first post...
I have to replace the plastic trim that holds the rubber cover/charge port on the Jam2.
As part of the task I have to remove the Bosch motor.
Has anyone done this that can advise of any pitfalls to avoid?
Cheers

If you go six minutes in on the video this guy shows how he removed the Bosch motor on a Rail, the Jam2 can't be that different.


I have removed the Shimano motor from my Jam2 and the Bosch one from my Rail.Both were easy but the Bosch was easier as the bolts were more accessible.

Do it with the bike upside down so the motor doesn't drop out although it can be a bit of a wiggle to get it.

 

[Marquez93]

Great thanks for the reply.

 

[Peaky Rider]

Just one other thing. If you can do the work you need to do by just sliding the motor to one side and not disconnecting any wires, then that reduces the chance of things going wrong.

 

[Marquez93]

I may be able to, until I get stuck in cant tell.
It's to undo the connector for the charge plug, one long lead down to the motor.
All for a plastic trim. Lol

 

[RustyMTB]

There aren't really any pitfalls. The motor is secured by eight (I think) Torx T45 bolts. They're in tight & will have blue Loctite on the threads. The best way to do it is to turn the bike upside down so the motor doesn't fall out. You don't need to remove the cranks either, just rotate the spider so you can access the drive side bolts through the gaps.

If you do have to take it off altogether, you'll see there are three wired connections, one each for the battery, wheel sensor & display & they are all different sized plugs & directional connectors so they each can only go in the correct port on the motor & only in the right orientation. As ever, take your time & don't force anything & be careful not to break any locking tabs on the connectors.

Otherwise it's pretty straightforward stuff.

 

[Marquez93]

Thanks.
I'm grateful for you guys for taking the time to respond.

 

[Peaky Rider]

There aren't really any pitfalls. The motor is secured by eight (I think) Torx T45 bolts. They're in tight & will have blue Loctite on the threads. The best way to do it is to turn the bike upside down so the motor doesn't fall out. You don't need to remove the cranks either, just rotate the spider so you can access the drive side bolts through the gaps.

If you do have to take it off altogether, you'll see there are three wired connections, one each for the battery, wheel sensor & display & they are all different sized plugs & directional connectors so they each can only go in the correct port on the motor & only in the right orientation. As ever, take your time & don't force anything & be careful not to break any locking tabs on the connectors.

Otherwise it's pretty straightforward stuff.

Just six.

 

[RustyMTB]

Eight on the Sam.

 

[Peaky Rider]

Interesting, that means there will probably be eight on the Jam2 as well. Assumed Bosch would just make one motor casing and leave the frame builders to adapt, didn't expect them to make frame specific casings. Or maybe Trek just don't utilise two of them (the second from the left on your photo).

Is there no motor protector (skid plate) on your bike or does the picture just not show it?

 

[RustyMTB]

None on the Sam, aftermarket stuff has been discussed here a few times. From memory, when I took the same motor out of my Stilus, there was a bracket between the bolts & the motor. I didn't think anything of it at the time but now it occurs that could facilitate different bolt combinations for different frames.

 

[Peaky Rider]

None on the Sam, aftermarket stuff has been discussed here a few times. From memory, when I took the same motor out of my Stilus, there was a bracket between the bolts & the motor. I didn't think anything of it at the time but now it occurs that could facilitate different bolt combinations for different frames.

Yes, that could be a method used to facilitate additional fixings for different bikes.

 

[bazxa]

Motor fasteners are Torx plus which have a different profile. ordinary torx will probably work but it is not the correct tool.