Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[thaeber]

It uses 180mm rotors as standard. I'm running 203mm Shimano rotors. I haven't tried running 220mm rotors but let me check if someone has ran 220mm rotors on the E10. If so, then yes it is possible.

Bare with me

I just changed my rear rotor on the E10 to 220mm, Magura MDR-P. I used a standard PM +40mm adapter. Works flawless! Brake caliper is Shimano Saint.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Great thankyou. I already ordered a spare pair of +40mm post mount adapters last night. I have an unused orange hope tech 3 / e4 combo for the rear, and a spare 220m rotor. For the front the only spare brakes I have are sram guide RS, but I really like the look of the new hope tech 4s. So I might splurge a set.

I just changed my rear rotor on the E10 to 220mm, Magura MDR-P. I used a standard PM +40mm adapter. Works flawless! Brake caliper is Shimano Saint.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Many thanks for updating the thread @thaeber

I tried looking for examples to see who had ran a bigger rotor but couldn't find anyone on.

I'll be sure to keep this in mind for future builds and upgrades.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

So!!!!

I've whipped out the Levo & Kenevo to guage handling compared to the E22 (as well the E10 but not as important).

I'm not really bothered about comparing motor power or range or responsiveness as clearly the 4 bikes are different between themselves, each excels in their own way (notwithstanding, only my Levo is a 29er and the other 3 are 27.5 front and rear).

But some have asked whether the difference between the E10 and E22 is like a Levo & Kenevo

I was somewhat convinced before whipping them out that it's not. But I will test this assumption just in case.

 

[Kiteboy]

Off topic:
Neeko, did you used to snow kite? I think we may have met.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Off topic:
Neeko, did you used to snow kite? I think we may have met.

Nah!!
Never snow kite before. I have tried snowboarding years ago. But it really wasn't for me

 

[Swiftdaddy]

Anyone have any knowledge on this frame? Looks like the e22 but in aluminum? I can’t find much on it tho I did contact the seller so will see if they say. Trying to find geometry.

Bafang M600 M620 48V 500W 1000W Mid drive Dual Suspension Electric Bike Frame | eBay

Motor: Bafang Mid-drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620;. Bafang Mid drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620 Motor Kits Full Set. Rear Swing Arm Dropout: 135mm.

www.ebay.com

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Anyone have any knowledge on this frame? Looks like the e22 but in aluminum? I can’t find much on it tho I did contact the seller so will see if they say. Trying to find geometry.

Bafang M600 M620 48V 500W 1000W Mid drive Dual Suspension Electric Bike Frame | eBay

Motor: Bafang Mid-drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620;. Bafang Mid drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620 Motor Kits Full Set. Rear Swing Arm Dropout: 135mm.

www.ebay.com

I had a feeling others would find this frame.

I have seen it through researching other frames compatible with the M620/M600/M500.

It's not Dengfu as its alloy but it does share a striking resemblance to the E10 (not saying it's an alloy E10).

 

[thaeber]

Anyone have any knowledge on this frame? Looks like the e22 but in aluminum? I can’t find much on it tho I did contact the seller so will see if they say. Trying to find geometry.

Bafang M600 M620 48V 500W 1000W Mid drive Dual Suspension Electric Bike Frame | eBay

Motor: Bafang Mid-drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620;. Bafang Mid drive 48V 500W M600 or 48V 1000W M620 Motor Kits Full Set. Rear Swing Arm Dropout: 135mm.

www.ebay.com

Swing Arm Dropout 135mm? 1990‘s style….

 

[Swiftdaddy]

I had a feeling others would find this frame.

I have seen it through researching other frames compatible with the M620/M600/M500.

It's not Dengfu as its alloy but it does share a striking resemblance to the E10 (not saying it's an alloy E10).

found it on alibaba. 110mm travel and ya if it’s actually 135mm dropouts that’s not ideal..

Product Not Available

Product Not Available

m.alibaba.com

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

So I've been asked to provide the weight of both the E22 & E10.

The E22 spec'd with :-
•Fox 36 170mm travel fork (ID-DQ79)
•Fox dpx2 230x62.5 rear shock (ID-D3LT)
•Wtb STI30 27.5 rear wheel with Michelin E wild 2.8 and 203mm Shimano rotor & Sunrace 11spd cassette 11-50t ran tubeless
•DT Swiss H1900 front wheel with Michelin e wild 2.8 tyre and 203mm Shimano rotor ran tubeless
•OneUp 210 dropper seatpost (31.6 diameter) with Giant Contact Forward saddle
•Bontrager Line 35 handlebars (820mm wide) with ODI Elite Pro grips
•DMR Defy 35/50 stem
•Merocco 4pot brakes (KO versions of the Tektro Orions)
•Shimano SLX M7100 12spd derailleur & Shimano SLX M7000 11spd shifter and Sram chain 12spd 126link
•Raceface aeffect cranks 165mm with Funn Magic Pedals
•Works Components 2 degree headset
• Specialized Z bottle cage &
•Crud Guard xl

Total weight

27.18kg (with the 840wh battery)

Compared to the E10

spec'd with:-
•Rockshox Lyrik RC 180mm fork (repurposed from 2019 Kenevo Expert)
•Rockshox Monarch RC3 Plus 210x60mm (Trek proprietary shock standard)
•Wtb STI30 with Maxxis High Roller2 2.5wide & 203mm Shimano rotor and 11spd Sunrace cassette 11-50t ran tubeless
•Sunringle Duroc 40 with Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 wide & 203mm rotor ran tubeless
•OneUp 210mm dropper (31.6 diameter) with Giant Contact Forward saddle
•Raceface atlas handlebars 820mm wide with ODI Elite Pro grips
•Generic 35/40 stem (I think its Whyte branded)
•Superstar Components Slackerizer 2 degree headset
•Shimano Deore M5100 11spd drivetrain with sram gx eagle 12spd chain (126link cut to 122)
•Meroco 4pot brakes (again, ko version of Tektro Orion) &
•Stock bafang 170mm cranks with Nukeproof Neutron Evo pedals

Total weight

25.48kg (with 840wh battery and M600 motor)

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

So I've been asked to provide the weight of both the E22 & E10.

View attachment 88071
The E22 spec'd with :-
•Fox 36 170mm travel fork (ID-DQ79)
•Fox dpx2 230x62.5 rear shock (ID-D3LT)
•Wtb STI30 27.5 rear wheel with Michelin E wild 2.8 and 203mm Shimano rotor & Sunrace 11spd cassette 11-50t ran tubeless
•DT Swiss H1900 front wheel with Michelin e wild 2.8 tyre and 203mm Shimano rotor ran tubeless
•OneUp 210 dropper seatpost (31.6 diameter) with Giant Contact Forward saddle
•Bontrager Line 35 handlebars (820mm wide) with ODI Elite Pro grips
•DMR Defy 35/50 stem
•Merocco 4pot brakes (KO versions of the Tektro Orions)
•Shimano SLX M7100 12spd derailleur & Shimano SLX M7000 11spd shifter and Sram chain 12spd 126link
•Raceface aeffect cranks 165mm with Funn Magic Pedals
•Works Components 2 degree headset
• Specialized Z bottle cage &
•Crud Guard xl

Total weightView attachment 88072
27.18kg (with the 840wh battery)

Compared to the E10
View attachment 88078
spec'd with:-
•Rockshox Lyrik RC 180mm fork (repurposed from 2019 Kenevo Expert)
•Rockshox Monarch RC3 Plus 210x60mm (Trek proprietary shock standard)
•Wtb STI30 with Maxxis High Roller2 2.5wide & 203mm Shimano rotor and 11spd Sunrace cassette 11-50t ran tubeless
•Sunringle Duroc 40 with Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 wide & 203mm rotor ran tubeless
•OneUp 210mm dropper (31.6 diameter) with Giant Contact Forward saddle
•Raceface atlas handlebars 820mm wide with ODI Elite Pro grips
•Generic 35/40 stem (I think its Whyte branded)
•Superstar Components Slackerizer 2 degree headset
•Shimano Deore M5100 11spd drivetrain with sram gx eagle 12spd chain (126link cut to 122)
•Meroco 4pot brakes (again, ko version of Tektro Orion) &
•Stock bafang 170mm cranks with Nukeproof Neutron Evo pedals

Total weight
View attachment 88077
25.48kg (with 840wh battery and M600 motor)

Not a massive difference in weight. A few differences in the build to account for aswell. Like the e22 being setup with 27.5 PLUS tyres, VS 27.5/2.5 on the e10. But stock cranks on the e10 vs raceface for the e22.

Do you recall the weight of the frames with motor/battery only?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Im getting more and more excited about my upcoming e22 build. I'm still waiting for the frame to come from Dengfu. But have already ordered a few of the parts needed to complete the build.

I ordered a 104bcd spider from aliexpress,
a 36t praxis steel e-ring chainring,
Some +40mm post mount adapters,
A shimano XT chain (I wanted to keep everything in the sram family, but availability is an issue. Thankfully the praxis chainring and e13 cassette are both sram/shimano friendly.)
I also got a wolftooth dropper remote,
And a new shift cable/housing kit to run through the frame.
I also scored a sweet deal on a new fork. Initially I was going to use my existing 160mm lyrik. But I think I may have cut it down too much for use in the e22 longer headtube.

I have been eyeballing a marzoochi bomber Z1 coil 29er fork, even before the idea of an eMTB. And then pushys dropped the prices 25% (must be clearing 20/21 stock for the 22 model) plus I had a 15% discount code on top of that. So I got the fork at nearly 40% off. I couldn't not get it haha. I grabbed a firm spring aswell for it. But I may need an extra firm. According to the spring chart, I am right in the middle of firm and extra firm sizing. I opted for firm first, as with my heart condition and being a bit out of practice, I probably won't be needing extra firm just yet.

As for parts in my spares box, I pretty much have everything else needed.
Dropper - 150mm raceface,
Saddle - joyride analogue,
Stem - i9 40mm.
Bars - 800mm alloy renthals
Grips - death grips
Wheels z bontrager line 30s f/r.
Casssete - e13 helix.
Shifter and rear mech - sram GX eagle.
Pedals - I have a choice between spank oozy (my all time favourite pedal) or some raceface Chester's. Will probably go for the oozys.
Rear brakes - hope tech 3 e4.
Front brakes z sram guide rs. But this may change haha.
Rotors -hope 220mm f/r.
Shock - cane creek kitsuma coil

Still eyeballing some shorter cranks aswell. But this is a less priority.

 

[Mabman]

"Still eyeballing some shorter cranks aswell. But this is a less priority."

One of the first mod's I made and well worth the $50.

I have to laugh though that folks get hung up on weight with an E22 bike. It is a high weight/high power platform that gets light really fast when underway.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

L

"Still eyeballing some shorter cranks aswell. But this is a less priority."

One of the first mod's I made and well worth the $50.

I have to laugh though that folks get hung up on weight with an E22 bike. It is a high weight/high power platform that gets light really fast when underway.

Link to $50 cranks?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

As for priority. Short cranks aren't super high for me. Initially, just getting all the parts needed to complete the bike take high priority because short cranks on an incomplete bike is retarded for obvious reasons. Things like brakes and then finding a good deal on the fork, are higher priority than a 5 or 10mm shorter crank arm. And I personally don't even find 170mm too bad. 175mm is too big, 160 to 170 is about right and any less, I don't think I would enjoy riding. I run 170 on the other MTB and it is fine.

"Still eyeballing some shorter cranks aswell. But this is a less priority."

One of the first mod's I made and well worth the $50.

I have to laugh though that folks get hung up on weight with an E22 bike. It is a high weight/high power platform that gets light really fast when underway.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

L

Link to $50 cranks?

I think @Mabman is referring to the Maranda Delta Double Diamand isis cranks.

I've just looked and they appear to be available through Amazon for around $50.

FSA also make cranks compatible with the M620 along with Praxis, Raceface, XLC etc.

Just bare in mind that the Q-factor will increase/decrease, subject to which crank you use.

 

[Mabman]

Yes the Miranda's are the ones I got off Amazon. No noticeable change in the Q factor over stock.

The M620 I have found rewards an active spin and the shorter cranks aid in that. A bit harder to get going if you find yourself in too high a gear in a low speed situation but a blip of the throttle if enabled will compensate. Compensation for when suspension is active with a bit of extra ground clearance also.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Yes the Miranda's are the ones I got off Amazon. No noticeable change in the Q factor over stock.

The M620 I have found rewards an active spin and the shorter cranks aid in that. A bit harder to get going if you find yourself in too high a gear in a low speed situation but a blip of the throttle if enabled will compensate. Compensation for when suspension is active with a bit of extra ground clearance also.

Do you use gears still?

 

[Mabman]

Do you use gears still?

36t/11-50 full range. To me eBikes are like riding 125 class MX bikes and need to be in the proper gear to stay "on the pipe" and the M620 doesn't lug well I have found. Did switch to 11spd here recently due to wearing out the stock SRAM GX stuff in a thousand miles with a cheap steel Sensah system that is working fine. Others mileage/findings will vary but I go with what works for me.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

36t/11-50 full range. To me eBikes are like riding 125 class MX bikes and need to be in the proper gear to stay "on the pipe" and the M620 doesn't lug well I have found. Did switch to 11spd here recently due to wearing out the stock SRAM GX stuff in a thousand miles with a cheap steel Sensah system that is working fine. Others mileage/findings will vary but I go with what works for me.

Ok some thing to think about then. I typically don't have super fast cadence normally. But not slow either. I guess it's really hard to get an idea for it until the bike arrives and is complete.

As for wearing the drivetrain out, this is a concern for me. Although I try to mitigate it as best I can.

As said, I plan to use a 12 spd setup. But the cassete is e13 helix, which is steel for the top 10 gears, and alluminium for the 1st/2nd gear. And the chain ring is also steel praxis e-ring. (Which is also conveniently half the price of the comparable alloy chain ring).
Shifters and mech are to be used, but still functional sram GX eagle. And then the shimano XT chain.
I do generally keep my bike drivetrains relatively clean, and I also keep them well lubed. My current go to chain lube is the muc-off ceramic dry lube. Which I have found to be a good product compared to a couple of other chain lubes I have tried.
My first 12spd MTB had sram NX eagle, and I totoally wore that out with about 1000kms of manual pedalling from brand new. (Wore the cassete teeth, wore the freehub splines, wore the chain, wore the rear mech pulleys etc etc. I do not rate NX at all.)
But I have found the GX and higher to be a pretty bulletproof system, for manual MTB atleast.
Hoping I can get better life than that. Time will tell I guess.

 

[Mabman]

Bottom line is that the extra nm torque of any assist motor is harder on drivetrains that are developed primarily for non-assisted use. The fact that the M620 has so much available, and yes you will use it because its there, it just magnifies the situation. I hope you get a bike with the UART system over CanBus though so you can tune it to tame it!

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Bottom line is that the extra nm torque of any assist motor is harder on drivetrains that are developed primarily for non-assisted use. The fact that the M620 has so much available, and yes you will use it because its there, it just magnifies the situation. I hope you get a bike with the UART system over CanBus though so you can tune it to tame it!

No. Apparently only CAN-BUS system now available, atleast via dengfu where I bought the package from.

As for tuning, I'm hoping the aftermarket can crack it. Where there is demand, someone will supply. Or worst case scenario, I look at upgrading motor controllers down the track. But that is not a worry for now. Just getting the bike running for now.

With automotive side of things, I am a professional auto electrician with over 15years experience. And have installed numerous stand alone ECUs (mostly Link-ecu) in performance / motorsport orientated vehicles over the years, and dabbled with flash tuning when applicable. I'm not a tuner as such, but can do all the hardware side of things, and set up an EFI base tune to drive on and off trailers etc. I haven't had any experience with ebikes yet, but I am not too daunted by the process. I'm can't see electric tuning to be anywhere near as complicated as EFI tuning.

Ideally, in a perfect world, the motors would be easily user configurable, and tunable to suit the riding preferences of the user. Although, from what I gather, none of the dedicated mid-mount motor options are. So, in that case, may aswell go with the hardware that is the biggest strongest, then deal with tuning later on.

 

[Mabman]

Make a play for the Innotrace controller then and install it? Bafang's stock tunes on both CanBus and UART are horrible and I will be surprised if you can live with the stock format. While there are lots of folks on the CanBus deal from what I see it is proving hard to crack. If you are familiar with Endless Sphere there is alot of chatter on there about it that seems to be the furthest along but pertaining mostly to the M600?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Make a play for the Innotrace controller then and install it? Bafang's stock tunes on both CanBus and UART are horrible and I will be surprised if you can live with the stock format. While there are lots of folks on the CanBus deal from what I see it is proving hard to crack. If you are familiar with Endless Sphere there is alot of chatter on there about it that seems to be the furthest along but pertaining mostly to the M600?

Yes I have briefly looked at the innotrace before.

This caught my eye aswell. Sounds promising.

Skip to about 4:20

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Well. There was a nice package waiting for me when I got home today. The frame kit arrived. I was a little concerned that the box was pretty beat up. But everything inside appears OK. The motor and battery were not with the frame, so I guess these must still be coming in another package.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Pics.

A few areas which look like minor voids visible where some of the hardware mounting points are. I don't know if that is from the carbon laying process, or the machining afterwards. I don't think any of them are bad. The areas where it's visible, it is double sheer joints aswell.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

And one of the bearings feel crunchy.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Well. There was a nice package waiting for me when I got home today. The frame kit arrived. I was a little concerned that the box was pretty beat up. But everything inside appears OK. The motor and battery were not with the frame, so I guess these must still be coming in another package.

I didn't order mine with the motor but the frame and battery arrived separately.

For me, the battery arrived first. Then the frame.

Inspect the frame fully to ensure no issues. Follow my guidelines in terms of adding grease in pivotal parts. If you intend to paint the frame, remove all bearings and mask the areas where the bearings are housed.

If you require new bearings as some feel notchy, let me know and I'll leave a link to what bearing size you need......actually scratch that!

Bare with me, I'll list the bearing size shortly along with the exact linkage hardware size in case you wish to swap to titanium bolts

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I didn't order mine with the motor but the frame and battery arrived separately.

For me, the battery arrived first. Then the frame.

Inspect the frame fully to ensure no issues. Follow my guidelines in terms of adding grease in pivotal parts. If you intend to paint the frame, remove all bearings and mask the areas where the bearings are housed.

If you require new bearings as some feel notchy, let me know and I'll leave a link to what bearing size you need......actually scratch that!

Bare with me, I'll list the bearing size shortly along with the exact linkage hardware size in case you wish to swap to titanium bolts

All the bearings have thier part numbers visible.

I remember doing all the linkage bearings in an other bike, and most were standard bearings I could get at any bearing distributer. One size was an oddball, that I had to order from the bike manufacturer.