Decathlon STILUS Full Suspension Electric Mountain Bike - SRAM SX

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Can anyone recommend a low profile compatible top headset to replace the fsa one … having a too short steerer tube scenario..
 
Something like this? What have you done? Cut the steerer??


Thanks man , will give that a try, took a punt on a second hand fork without throughly thinking through measurements …. Amateur hour ??
 
Can anyone recommend a low profile compatible top headset to replace the fsa one … having a too short steerer tube scenario..

superstar components upper headset is slightly lower profile. Just changed myself

Type 2 ZS44 for the upper


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Just changed the rear wheel from the standard to a Nukeproof V2, my goodness what a difference.
I found the cheap hub knocked when you put any torque on the pedals.
The V2 hub has far more paw engagement so you get a more smooth transition from the pedal stroke.
Anyone ever wanting to upgrade there Stilus I’d advice the wheels, but each to there own of course ?
 
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We fitted mine with no press, slightly scary , hammer and chunk of wood scenario ? got my headset on , stem very tight fit .. with a 1 mm spacer . All clamped well and feels grand .
 
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Can anyone with a 625 battery fitted give me a measurement of the bottom plate to top . Shop that fitted my 625 battery have done it to loose and the battery rattles now ..
 
Can probably measure up for you tomorrow but you should be able to get a snug fit by loosening off the two allen bolts on the lower bracket, moving it up a bit & nipping them up. From memory, this trial & error method is how I fitted mine & it hasn't fallen out yet...
 
Can probably measure up for you tomorrow but you should be able to get a snug fit by loosening off the two allen bolts on the lower bracket, moving it up a bit & nipping them up. From memory, this trial & error method is how I fitted mine & it hasn't fallen out yet...
Thanks man will do that .
 
Not much of a picture but this is what needs loosening. To fit the longer battery, the LBS would have had to rotate this bracket 180 degrees & do it up again. It will be obvious when you take the battery out.

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I had two flats in short period of time recently and I'm considering to go tubeless (changing tubes is no fun with these Smart Sams). I hear that some of you guys have successfully converted these tyres into tubeless (even if they are not labeled as tubeless ready). So, if there is someone reading that, who did the tubeless conversion with the Smart Sams: can you please describe what is your long term experience? Isn't the tyre leaking the sealant through the sidewalls after some time? What tyre sealant did you use? I wonder if the success depends on the tyre sealant brand / type.
 
I had two flats in short period of time recently and I'm considering to go tubeless (changing tubes is no fun with these Smart Sams). I hear that some of you guys have successfully converted these tyres into tubeless (even if they are not labeled as tubeless ready). So, if there is someone reading that, who did the tubeless conversion with the Smart Sams: can you please describe what is your long term experience? Isn't the tyre leaking the sealant through the sidewalls after some time? What tyre sealant did you use? I wonder if the success depends on the tyre sealant brand / type.
Would get rid of the smart Sam’s and go tubeless. Watch robs recent YouTube video on tyre choice . No going back once you’ve done it it’s great . Bit fiddly at first . I have used muc off and stans, both seem grand .
 
I had two flats in short period of time recently and I'm considering to go tubeless (changing tubes is no fun with these Smart Sams). I hear that some of you guys have successfully converted these tyres into tubeless (even if they are not labeled as tubeless ready). So, if there is someone reading that, who did the tubeless conversion with the Smart Sams: can you please describe what is your long term experience? Isn't the tyre leaking the sealant through the sidewalls after some time? What tyre sealant did you use? I wonder if the success depends on the tyre sealant brand / type.
Did mine about a year ago and still fine. Used Stans for the fill and taped the rims with gorilla tape. Used decent valves.
Just use lots of washing up liquid/water to lube the tyre/rim before pumping.
I only used a track pump and they seated and stayed up even without sealant when I initially got them to seat. Deflated and refilled no issues. I have topped up once with about 50 ml since due to weather. A few punctured but sealant did the job, albeit after the initial spraying of creamy white fluid all over the downtube (steady lads ?).
No leaks, just pumping up required every few weeks as normal. The stupidly tight Sam's Probably help this.
Before anyone asks, I have had good reason to leave the Sam's on at the mo, but will change to ewilds end of summer. I quite enjoy the "excitement" of the drifting/will it, won't it grip, experience with the Sam's ?.
 
I had two flats in short period of time recently and I'm considering to go tubeless (changing tubes is no fun with these Smart Sams). I hear that some of you guys have successfully converted these tyres into tubeless (even if they are not labeled as tubeless ready). So, if there is someone reading that, who did the tubeless conversion with the Smart Sams: can you please describe what is your long term experience? Isn't the tyre leaking the sealant through the sidewalls after some time? What tyre sealant did you use? I wonder if the success depends on the tyre sealant brand / type.
I originally made the smarts sams tubeless when first got bike July 2020, just changed valves and added Stans sealant and blow up with track pump no issue. They did leak slightly and had to pump up to pressure every week or 2. The smart sams are absolutely useless in wet and mud. its like playing Russian Roulette...
 
Thank you for the answers! So, it looks like Stans sealant is proven to work with these tyres, so I will probably give it a try. But I also consider using different tyres (as some of you suggest), at least at the front. I can live with a bit of sketchiness in the rear, but losing the front is no fun at all. I don't have too much experience, so maybe it's worth to ask another question: will any other tyre type prevent from losing the front in the loose gravel on the hard surface or deep dry sand? This is where it happens to me most often.
 
Thank you for the answers! So, it looks like Stans sealant is proven to work with these tyres, so I will probably give it a try. But I also consider using different tyres (as some of you suggest), at least at the front. I can live with a bit of sketchiness in the rear, but losing the front is no fun at all. I don't have too much experience, so maybe it's worth to ask another question: will any other tyre type prevent from losing the front in the loose gravel on the hard surface or deep dry sand? This is where it happens to me most often.
I would check out tyre reviews as someone said but also check tyre pressures on different surfaces, and riding techniques/tips on YouTube, as sometimes tyres alone cannot make up for poor technique and set up. We've all been there and some of us are still there now and again.
Weight distribution, suspension set up (basic parameters) and line choice/speed are all going to help.
At least catching the front and rear slides have already improved your feel and experience for the bike.
Look at Mark Marquez (motogp rider), he never stops sliding ??.
 
Interestingly, Alltricks have started stocking a couple of Decathlon bikes. Not sure if this is a sign of things to come where others might stock/sell some decathlon bikes. Might make buying future Stilus type bargains easier if it ever happens again like that ..

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My motor is broken terminally with error code 513 implausible cadence sensor error at motor, LBS (cycle addicts rochdale ) is arranging warranty replacement via bosch.
 
Must admit I was wondering how a sensor could kill a motor but I looked it up & it seems the cadence sensor is a load cell type device that tells the motor to add proportional power in response to the effort put in through the pedals, which gives a natural feeling to the power assist & it's an integral part of the motor. Bummer though to have it go pop on you. I suppose on the bright side, shiny new motor incoming.
 
Upgraded fork to a 2018 Lyric with 170mm of travel. Holy cow how much better it is! It is noticeable even riding up an access road. It eats more of the small road chatter. But then on a steep rocky and rooty descend it just plows through where previously I was fighting for my life. It eats everything so much better, gives more grip, and makes me less tired even though I was riding faster than usual.

The second was a smooth trail but with a lot of braking bumps at the entrance of corners. It was fine on the stock fork but Lyric just makes those bumps nonexistent. This leads to more grip and more speed through the corners.

I'm very happy with this upgrade and can't recommend enough to upgrade the stock fork. The only drawback is that now shock is lagging behind and I already want to make it even with the performance of the new fork.
 
I agree with your comments about rear shock lagging behind when you upgrade the front forks , let us know if you upgrade and what with, i may go coil, but most probably will go with RS ultimate rear shock.
 
I agree with your comments about rear shock lagging behind when you upgrade the front forks , let us know if you upgrade and what with, i may go coil, but most probably will go with RS ultimate rear shock.
I'm eyeing RS Super Delux as a next step. Or maybe I'll give a shot to DVO Topaz T3. Reviews seem to be highly positive.
 
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