Cube one77 2025

I have the SLX and I can't fault it. Had it just over a year and still going strong. I would 100% recommend the SLX for spec and value for money. The new Bosch update has made it a beast and is easily on par with the Amflow.
 
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I'm at 4k km, bike has been ridden hard, all issues documented here, need to tighten the bolts after first few rides, some headset creaking I can't get rid of, but still a great bike for the price
 
Thanks for all the replies ^

Sounds like a solid choice. It's only the base model HPC 800 but it's $5,700 aud or $2,995 gbp - so plenty of room to upgrade things in future. I'll be sure to post a pic here once I pick up the bike! Very excited.. Bit torn on colour, they have the willowgreen, black and grey all in XL.

I'm at 4k km, bike has been ridden hard, all issues documented here, need to tighten the bolts after first few rides, some headset creaking I can't get rid of, but still a great bike for the price
Thanks for the reply, I've started reading through this thread since page 1 and noticed you are the OG poster. The headset creaking you can't get rid of sounds pretty annoying - I'll try to find your posts in this thread about it
 
Excellente, what's not to like, a very capable bike indeed. 1200 km the fiber/plastic head cups creaked, greased them and quiet since.
 
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Picked it up last night, my first eeb. Maiden voyage this arvo. Forks feel a bit naff but we’ll see after break in. So pumped
 
First impressions - loved the bike immediately even though set up was off (too soft, also shop cut the dropper cable super short so couldn’t get the post quite high enough).

Geo feels great, confidence inspiring. I like how low it is and feel like that added to the sense of stability at speed and ease of railing corners and berms, but I did clip my pedals a couple times pedalling in places I normally wouldn’t on my analog.

The crankset and chainring look like Temu level equipment, I wouldn’t mind getting a nicer looking chainring.

Also think I’m gonna need a mudguard for the rear. No doubt I’ll be swapping lots of parts out so will update along the way! Thanks all for the vote of confidence in this bike, am chuffed.
 
As of today up to 110km and 2500m of vert - in 4 days ive ridden double what I’d do in a week on the analogue bike, and I barely feel fatigued!! Tomorrow I’m going to see how far I can get range wise. Yesterday got down to 20% battery in 1hr 40 minutes (turbo whole time).

Started to understand why people don’t hate the extra weight (I weighed this at 27kg!), it does gain momentum faster and hold speed noticeably better in rough sections. Still adapting riding style but it is a sled, in a way it feels like my 2006 giant glory I rode as a teen but with way better geometry - same point and shoot inspiring ride. Totally anecdotal but did get a few top 10’s on local descents on Strava on my 2nd ride (I don’t race, just an indication that the bike is good and I’m comfortable!).

Main issue that’s appeared - I can’t get the rebound fast enough on the fork or shock. Still feels too slow even wound all the way out (especially the fork). Also the fork is not very supple. I see a Fox 38 and X2 in my crystal ball. Today the rear shock blew out a seal (?) - it’s still holding air and feels fine, so it’s just the dust seal. I’m gonna try remove the shock and pop it back in before tomorrows ride.

Absolutely zero regrets buying this bike, can’t believe how much fun I am having (from an ex e-bike hater).

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Just fit it with coil DVO Jade X -and the difference is very significant. It's soooo better in handling small bumps. Let's see it long term, but I think I will stay with coil.
 
I have swapped a few parts off my analogue bike (which I haven’t ridden since buying this… but will get around to doing!).

I want to get a matching 27.5 rear wheel / but they don’t come in an e-bike version.

Could I run the regular Mavic Deemax dh rear wheel? Or the hub is not strong enough?

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I have swapped a few parts off my analogue bike (which I haven’t ridden since buying this… but will get around to doing!).

I want to get a matching 27.5 rear wheel / but they don’t come in an e-bike version.

Could I run the regular Mavic Deemax dh rear wheel? Or the hub is not strong enough?

View attachment 187617
Go for it mate 👍
 
After 500km, four spokes have snapped in the stock rear wheel. Happened over two rides (first one went, then three - I shouldn't have been riding with a broken spoke so partly my fault). Took wheel into shop I bought it on the weekend - no spokes in stock, and no mechanic available to cut and thread spokes. Suggested I bring the whole bike back in so they can also 'check the gears and brakes'. Back on the analogue bike while I wait for that matching rear wheel from Bikeinn ^

The forks started to feel a little better, keen to do a lower service and see if they improve again. I did notice a very slight 'clunk' coming from the rear end when lifting the rear wheel off the ground, and compressing it through the first mm of travel. Went around in circles checking torque on all the bolts/shock mount - removed and greased the shock mount bolts. Ended up deciding it was the garbage suntour shock and not worrying about it.

Do love the bike, it's awesome... but feel it will need a fork/shock/wheels to unlock its full potential.
 
Hi all,
Another new owner here. Also loving the bike.
I come from a 2020 Specialised Turbo Kenevo S4 and have gone to a M sized SLX.
I have removed, greased and locktited all bolts. Have some 145mm Pinnd cranks inbound, a Oneup 210mm dropper and an AVS motor plate on their way also.
I have shortened the bars to 760mm and dropped the stock stem to the bottom.
Loving the bike, and the change. 250km on it now, 90 in the last 2 days with a couple PRs and a 2nd on one decent.
Only issue I'm having is what I think are the front brake pads vibrating when in use. I can not feel it, but it makes a very strange noise.

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I think are the front brake pads vibrating when in use. I can not feel it,
Since you mention not being able to feel the vibrating, I assume it is the noise, and not haptic that the brakes make. I have a noise, a funny sound that only comes from the front rotor of my 8120's after a few thousand kms it is very subtle and I only notice it rarely in certain conditions. The noise I assume is from the shape of the cooling slots and it is soft and pleasant so I am not distracted by it. I am happy with the performance of the front brakes, they have been flawless. I did confirm that the caliper posts aligned the front pads with the center of the rotor surface area so it must just be an acustic quality for that combo.
 
Speaking of sounds...I've had my SLX for 14 months and only 555 miles.

I am hearing a clunking/knocking sound at the rear when climbing. It's when peddling quite slow. I have wiggled the bike and rear wheel and dropped the rear of the bike on its wheel to listen for anything. Nothing is loose and is quiet. No idea. Possibly the motor itself?

Has anyone had this situation and found the issue?
 
Speaking of sounds...I've had my SLX for 14 months and only 555 miles.

I am hearing a clunking/knocking sound at the rear when climbing. It's when peddling quite slow. I have wiggled the bike and rear wheel and dropped the rear of the bike on its wheel to listen for anything. Nothing is loose and is quiet. No idea. Possibly the motor itself?

Has anyone had this situation and found the issue?
I occasional have a few knocks/chunks when riding since new that i can't explain, all is fine at 2k km
 
Funny enough, I found my battery cover loose when I got home on Sunday after a 30min highway drive home. Cover was hanging on the top button/bolt only. Like the bottom hooks had slipped up and out. I'm confident it was not loose when I lifted the bike onto the carrier on the back of the car.
 
Speaking of sounds...I've had my SLX for 14 months and only 555 miles.

I am hearing a clunking/knocking sound at the rear when climbing. It's when peddling quite slow. I have wiggled the bike and rear wheel and dropped the rear of the bike on its wheel to listen for anything. Nothing is loose and is quiet. No idea. Possibly the motor itself?

Has anyone had this situation and found the issue?
I have isolated it to only making the clunking/knocking noise only when on the 5th cog.
Could it be a loose cassette lockring?
The cassette doesn't move when inspected though.
 
I have isolated it to only making the clunking/knocking noise only when on the 5th cog.
Could it be a loose cassette lockring?
The cassette doesn't move when inspected though.
I had rattle sounds start at 1400 km, in the 4th cog up from the smallest. It was a worn chain that caused chain rattle.
The next rattle was a loose cassette that was a simple thing to tighten .
 
Found an example of my front brake noise.
You can hear it better in post #8

 
I had rattle sounds start at 1400 km, in the 4th cog up from the smallest. It was a worn chain that caused chain rattle.
The next rattle was a loose cassette that was a simple thing to tighten .
The chain is sound. I'll check the cassette. Thanks.
 
Very sensible cobble there! I lost mine before a ride and continued regardless, the amount of crap collected inside the downtube was depressing. Never again!
Yes I got lucky I had a bunch of cardboard to protect the bikes in the boot and some tape. It takes me 10minutes to do each time I charge the battery in the tiny apartment I rented, but yes the lower terminals would get wrecked with mud
 
Found an example of my front brake noise.
You can hear it better in post #8

In regards to brakes… I've been putting some serious heat into them lately — the 203mm rotors have gone through a whole spectrum, blue, purple, right down to "India ink," from sustained braking on long descents. Given that, I've decided to just do the full monte rather than patch the worn parts: so... new rotors, new caliper posts, new pads, the works.


Going up to 220mm rotors for the extra thermal capacity, along with taller caliper posts to match. I'm also holding out a bit on the pads, since I understand Shimano's got new rotors coming out this fall in some more standard sizes, hoping to grab those once available so I can bump up to 2mm thickness at the same time rather than doing this twice.
 
I'm on SRAM HS2 220mm rotors for the past 2-3 years on my main bikes, huge upgrade regardless of the brake (had SRAM codes, magura mt5 and now shim XT)
 
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