Crestline RS180 Skid Plate?

Arethustra · May 12, 2024

I’m still in the early stages of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) on a prototype but would anyone else be interested in something like this?

First versions will be heat-formed 1/4" Kydex possibly skinned with an aluminum plate bonded to the outside for extra protection.

If others are interested and I can get a pattern developed that will work without a bunch of fiddling, I will likely work with a prototyper to create a fully aluminum version but only if the $$$ makesense - not gonna speed $5K to make 3 of these things just for me (probably not lol

)..

RoJo · May 12, 2024

Good idea. Definitely needs a bash guard.
Another approach is to find numbers then approach:

Can’t find a Rockguardz for your bike?

With so many bikes out there, it’s possible we don’t have one for your particular make and model. But don’t worry, we’d love to work with you to add your bike to our collection. If your bike is one…

rockguardz.com

Arethustra · May 13, 2024

Wasn’t super impressed with what they offered and I’m in the US which makes it super difficult to just being my bike by for a measurement but yeah, something like that combined with what these guys are doing plus something that deflects rocks away from the cooling fins.

I’ll have a kydex/alu prototype in a month or less and then I’ll talk to Troydon to be sure it won’t impact the warranty before I go any further down this path.

RoJo · May 13, 2024

You've given it a lot more thought than me, and it sounds like a good plan. From R/C car durability, plastic chassis seems to work well at taking huge impacts because it can bend and spring back. This is probably way outside the scope, but as someone who swaps batteries every ride I don't love the existing cover, perhaps a redesign of this to be more durable and accessible would be good. Probably going too far though as the first issue is just better protection against strikes - excellent handling and good BB height comes with a price!

Arethustra · May 13, 2024

I had considered doing a complete replacement of the plastic lower but it seemed easier to go the skid plate route which actually makes replacing the battery worse. Not sure how to make that issue better…how would you want it to work?

When I was looking at the full replacement approach I was getting stuck on materials; I wanted something that was tough and light (and not just plastic) - I really liked the idea of a cnc’d lower with a replaceable Delrin “skid plate” surface but that gets me back to making a $5k skid plate for myself.

RoJo · May 13, 2024

Arethustra said:
I had considered doing a complete replacement of the plastic lower but it seemed easier to go the skid plate route which actually makes replacing the battery worse. Not sure how to make that issue better…how would you want it to work?

When I was looking at the full replacement approach I was getting stuck on materials; I wanted something that was tough and light (and not just plastic) - I really liked the idea of a cnc’d lower with a replaceable Delrin “skid plate” surface but that gets me back to making a $5k skid plate for myself.

Yep, tough, and my thoughts aren't exactly helping as they add problems rather than provide solutions.
Maybe we should see if crestline can sell a 10 pack of the standard ones

At the moment mine is held on by one bolt and an Enduro strap. Looks ugly, but quicker for battery changes!

Arethustra · May 13, 2024

So for you something that hinges down (Internal hinge - probably a set pin) from the front, secured by a single "locking" bolt in the rear (where the back bolt is currently) would be better for quick switches? Maybe even some sort of captured screw/latch combo so you wouldn't even have to remove a screw - just twist the locking bolt to unlatch. How does something like that sound?

RoJo · May 13, 2024

Arethustra said:
So for you something that hinges down (Internal hinge - probably a set pin) from the front, secured by a single "locking" bolt in the rear (where the back bolt is currently) would be better for quick switches? Maybe even some sort of captured screw/latch combo so you wouldn't even have to remove a screw - just twist the locking bolt to unlatch. How does something like that sound?

Yeah, that does sound rather good!

AlumiPro · May 19, 2024

I’ve been interested, I've broken several Crestline plastic bash guards so far and have several new ones on standby. I’ve talked to Troydon about adding a stronger bash guard but he’s not sure it’s a wise idea to add the extra stress on the fastener inserts.(I agree) Plastic gives and/or breaks when impacted, while aluminum or stainless will not, but will transfer the impact through the attachment points. The rear mounting point is plenty strong IMO. But the front small fasteners into the carbon inserts could get damaged. I’d be interested in a stainless steel guard but NOT aluminum. (I have the ability to fabricate either) The jagged volcanic rock I encounter would dig/gouge into aluminum as a pose to sliding on stainless.
I’ve created a stainless steel bash ring for my Crestline that’s been working great! The 36T chainring hangs down just a little lower than the plastic guard and It would occasionally make contact with big rocks!