BikingBad
Active member
I have not. Bike is significantly quieter compared to 181.1, hence I’m mainly looking for plugs for aesthetics and long term wear.Did you find out?im trying to find some
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I have not. Bike is significantly quieter compared to 181.1, hence I’m mainly looking for plugs for aesthetics and long term wear.Did you find out?im trying to find some
Thanks for the update! I’m really interested in the SRAM XX DH thus askingI haven’t put the DH 7speed cassette on yet. I’m waiting until I put on my 200mm DH linkage, which I have now. But I’m going to ride 180/180 for a little while before I make it 200/200 and then throw on the 7 speed. However I have been running my 34t chainring with my 11 speed 10-42 cassette and not using the 42. The 34 x 36 is low enough for anything that’s steep enough to actually ride up. So I think the 7sp will be good for bike park and a 10-36 good for everything else.
Enter the serial numbers into the TrailHead app to confirm. My Vivid had 1, B1 Zebs usually have none bc of the ABO.Anybody that got a Plaid with a Zeb and a vivid air know what volume spacers/tokens are preinstalled? I’m still working on getting the suspension to feel right for me and I’m thinking it’s too progressive but I don’t have lot of experience with the adjusting that.
Seems many folks experienced the same. Mine was relatively easy, only removed 1 bottom pivot axle bolt to loosen Cascade link enough to route cable.The sram power cable is a PIA to route. Good god it took me forever.
I ruined one. Super easy to route with a cable housing rather than the fishing lines. With the line a nightmare.The sram power cable is a PIA to route. Good god it took me forever.
Having all the linkage off makes it super easy. Literally took about 30 seconds to tape and pull it through. And the whole bike assembly is rather straightforward and easy. Went very quickly. Even if I didn't have to remove it all for the wrap, I would have done so anyway. Just like to make sure the lube, thread-locker and torque situations are all dialed from the start.The sram power cable is a PIA to route. Good god it took me forever.
What size drop outs you taking out? Wanna sell?Anyone changed there dropouts? Currently running in 29 setup but want to try mullet. I have dropouts but can’t find any info on torque specs.
Have you been to Jarrods since getting your bike together? Im considering going next Thurs-Fri-Sat. Im not sure, as I would probably be solo. I still need to hit that new flow trail at Coldwater too. Red Clay Buffet maybe?I'm trying to hit Jarods on Sat is i have the build done.
I have it outside the frame. Seems to sit flush and doesn't move. I didn't like how running through the UDH mount made a big gap under the chain stay.Speaking of the sram power cable, how are y’all routing it to the hanger? Currently mine is routed between the UDH mount ears on the derailleur.
I went with the Wolf Tooth 200mm dropper post. Shortest insertion length available. If the 210 is on the edge of being too long, 200 with better insertion will be on the money, I’m guessing.Man, I tired the line, string, shifter cable, all taped to the cord and nothing.
Finally a fished some trimmer wire in there and taped the end butt to butt and barely made it through. Something about the chain stay bend was getting the plug hung up.
Glad it’s over though. Now it’s time to set up the cockpit. I’m a little worried the 210 dropper is too long for me though. If it’s not it’s right on the edge.
I might swap it for a 185 slammed and just rock it slightly shorter than ideal for climbing. After all the motor helps with that so much.
I have it outside the frame. Seems to sit flush and doesn't move. I didn't like how running through the UDH mount made a big gap under the chain stay.
All good. SRAM instructs us to route the cable between the UDH 'ears.'Speaking of the sram power cable, how are y’all routing it to the hanger? Currently mine is routed between the UDH mount ears on the derailleur.
I ruined one aswell.I ruined one. Super easy to route with a cable housing rather than the fishing lines. With the line a nightmare.
Sorry to hear about your battery. Is that the Forged or the Raw frame?Chassis No 53 checking in......had to go and rescue from the USA and the Build is starting.......if anyone in the USA needs a 800w battery I have mine stuck in Florida (no go on airlines).....PM me.
also have to sell a Pole Voima and or Sonni as 3 top tier Ebikes in the Garage is a bit silly.
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its a raw Plaid. will be robbing bits of the Poles for the build.......got a loan Battery until I can get one over here....Sorry to hear about your battery. Is that the Forged or the Raw frame?
Glad you were able to get a loaner battery. I had similar issues when I bought an emtb from Canada and tried to ship to US.its a raw Plaid. will be robbing bits of the Poles for the build.......got a loan Battery until I can get one over here....
Nice! I also parted out my Voima to build my raw Plaid. You’re going to love it. I’m curious to see how it compares to both of your Poles. My Voima has the CX Race, and the Avinox blows it away. Way more power, but also more controllable. Climbs that were super steep and technical are now a lot easier on my Plaid. It’s also 3.5lbs lighter than my Voima with the 750 battery. Seems like Leo is losing a lot of customers to Crestline.Chassis No 53 checking in......had to go and rescue from the USA and the Build is starting.......if anyone in the USA needs a 800w battery I have mine stuck in Florida (no go on airlines).....PM me.
also have to sell a Pole Voima and or Sonni as 3 top tier Ebikes in the Garage is a bit silly.
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Have you been to Jarrods since getting your bike together? Im considering going next Thurs-Fri-Sat. Im not sure, as I would probably be solo. I still need to hit that new flow trail at Coldwater too. Red Clay Buffet maybe?
After much debate, I have run my Sram cable the same way you described. No issues so far.
“That’ll do”. Idk how that translates to metric thoughWhat torque specs are people going with for the battery bolts?