Bafang m510

guys, i checked fw header.

1st byte is 91= this is strange, as it should be 90.
According i know 1st byte is as follows:

88 -M500
89-M600
90-M510
91-???

1st version of M510 - 0x 89 45
2nd version - 0x 90 69
3rd version - 0x 91 69
 
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Today i drive 25km with yesterday upgraded fw on 510FC1.0 version I

CRX10NC4814i101003-1-cs.bin

I wait 1minute after powerOn to finish calibration procedure, then I drive my usual circuit. Here are mine observations:

1) motor is quiter then M600 (i have both bikes)
2) power oscillation (aka 'on-off' torque issue) is not present. Tried also on PAS1, also running downhill with minimal caddency on heavy gear, nothing. On tuesday i was able to replicate this anytime (specially on flat terrain i feel every 3rd pedal circle motor go off and on again. This is not now issue anymore. I was also able to see this on HMI241,as power goes from 200W->0->200W. Now its flat.
3) PAS1 is really economode now, power around 100W. Good for long distance cruising, i found PAS2 something like PAS1 on M600, default for me. PAS2 is around 250Wnow.
4) tried PAS9/or Pas5 when using pas1-5 mode= stable 800W.
5) power start is instant (0.5s), shutdown is instant.
6. last check was to shutdown bike. Power ON, no waiting for calibration just pedalling....No issue at all again!!!

I like this fw very mutch and i think I will keep it until there is somerhing mutch more impressive. I will run comparison with other M600 bafang during weekend hopefully using classic circle.

Correction - it is not a "calibration".
It is just a safety feature on throttle, throttle is gradually ramping up when pressed for few seconds after turn on.
 
Guys, sharing 48V version 3.2 and revision " .i " (second version of motors).

Good behaviour, just when you reaching limit speed, you feel heavy resistance in pedals (which is caused with motor current controlling, not a resistance in transmission). So u need to have it speed unlocked.

This one get the right 48v battery attenuation?
 
1st version of M510 - 0x 89 45 - this is same as every fw for M600 available. Maybe bafang only reused same controller, or based inicial fw for M510 on M600 fw.
 
Guys, sharing 48V version 3.2 and revision " .i " (second version of motors).

Good behaviour, just when you reaching limit speed, you feel heavy resistance in pedals (which is caused with motor current controlling, not a resistance in transmission). So u need to have it speed unlocked.

Just try this firmware with a little bit tuning with besst pro. Running smooth and battery attenuation showing right. So far this is the best 48v firmware for me. Battery consumption with 9ah capacity: 27km, 810m elevation gain and only consume 1 bar with mostly level 2 assist.
Thanks @Dado for sharing.
 
Just try this firmware with a little bit tuning with besst pro. Running smooth and battery attenuation showing right. So far this is the best 48v firmware for me. Battery consumption with 9ah capacity: 27km, 810m elevation gain and only consume 1 bar with mostly level 2 assist.
Thanks @Dado for sharing.
Thanks for the info! Did You also test if there is power reduction at 40%/30%/20%/10% SoC?
 
You can use for diagnostic, speed unlocking, firmware update for M500 and M600. Power maps only for M510 motors. (And I suppose Bafang wont release power maps for M600 - lets see. Maybe on upgraded version M610)

So Bafang came out with M510 and there is still no proper firmware.
Then they roll out version firmware v3.5 which works only with new M510 hw versions.
I think I am dreaming... ;)

If somebody will ride v 3.5 pls. share the experience.
 
A general question, how often do you think m510 needs service and what grease do you use for the gears? Would any good quality bearing grease work?
 
A general question, how often do you think m510 needs service and what grease do you use for the gears? Would any good quality bearing grease work?
I've always re-greased my Bafang motors from new to a) ensure there is enough grease in there and b) to replace what ever Bafang uses with a known quality grease. The recommendation is Mobilgrease 28 but I struggled to get some in the UK so have used Lucas Oil 10574 Red and Tacky Grease without issue thus far.
I would be re-greasing at least every 1000km (if not sooner). Moisture can get into these motors and some parts can show signs of corrosion quite early on.
 
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I might add to the above that John Deere Corn Head grease works excellent in side Bafang motors.
 
I won't open the engine. I think that if the guys make such a good engine, then the lubricant is of good quality. After the autopsy, water will definitely get there.
 
Whaaaaaat? You crack Your motor open every 1000 km and grease it? Like 3-4 times a year? Ohhhh….
LOL! I'm lucky to put 1000km on mine a year! You have too much time on your hands for riding it would seem... and I'm just jealous... :p
Can never hurt to service the motor as often as possible, but maybe your right, 1000km could be a little too often if the motor has good grease in from the start and doesn't ingest moisture. When I pulled my M600 apart after a few months of winter riding, there was already signs of corrosion on the steel gears, which had caused the grease to take on a brownish colour.
 
I use Mobilgrease 28 on the BBS02B, it can be obtained from the aviation industry. I have 3000km on the M500 but I haven't used it yet. Well, sounds are already coming, I'll have to force myself.:)
 
It appears my motor might have developed a problem. When I start pedaling I get a kick to the pedals with a dimm thudding sound when the motor's engaging. This happens when going from standsteel, but also when pedaling after coasting. Did anybody encounter a similar problem or might have an idea what might that be? I am thinking that it might be a bearing freezing up
 
Could be one of the sprag bearings but worth checking the bikes drive train etc. and motor mount bolts before stripping the motor.
 
How can the motor mount bolts affect this?
If the nuts have come loose there maybe slight movement which under motor torque could cause 'knocking' but I know its fairly unlikely. Just worth checking all the possible 'non motor' causes before removing / stripping.
 
Today I have cracked up my motor and it seems the issue might indeed be in one of the clutch bearings. The smaller one I was able to easily turn with my finger, while the bigger one I couldn't get to turn.. Does anybody here have experience replacing them? How do I take them apart? Are they simply pressed together?
 
Today I have cracked up my motor and it seems the issue might indeed be in one of the clutch bearings. The smaller one I was able to easily turn with my finger, while the bigger one I couldn't get to turn.. Does anybody here have experience replacing them? How do I take them apart? Are they simply pressed together?
Have a word with demondazza as he replaced the sprag bearings in his M600 motor (which had similar problems to you).
Also check out this thread Cheeb issues :-(
 
Update: Bigger loop today, 30 km, 725 vertical height, 20km/h average with some really steep climbs. Battery SOC at end of ride was 63%, from fully changed. Compared to previous rides same loop, this was a blast. Battery consumption way better, about 20% improvement. Specially at the steep climbs the motor is way more powerful, also at lower cadence around 70 rpm loads of support. So I have to change my first feedback. Engine is much more powerful then M500. Only negative point is the high pitch whining noise. This is a frequence that really hurts me, although it is not very loud.

What battery do you have?
 
こんにちは。M510 で運転中に断続的なアシストに悩まされ、ディーラーから新しい請求、最適なツール、およびログイン ID を入手して修正しました。ソフトウェアをダウンロードしてログインできましたが、次に何をすればわかります。誰か助けて。

hello. I was plagued with intermittent assist while driving on my M510 and fixed it by getting new billing, best tools and login id from dealer. I downloaded the software and logged in, but I don't know what to do next. somebody help.
 
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Thaeber, M510 is much more powerfull. I was measuring it on an uphill. M510 was 1m and 10s faster on a climb! Time 6:58 (and I was peddalling light), second best time in Strava 8:10 (with speed limit turned off, also all other people in strava leaderboard have speed unlocked). So to shave of 1 minute on 8 min climb is huge! Can post screenshots.
 
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