Bafang M500 and M600 motors

I'm running my M560 motors with 52V batteries. Sadly there are no 52V firmware files for these motors. Has anyone figured out how to switch from percent (%) to voltage (v) in order to see info about the state when using 52V batteries?

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The older DP242 display used to give accurate % right down to 1% for the 52 volts, the newer DP245 doesn't for some reason. On my M510 it works out about a display of 40% is around the 46 volt shut off ( which is 3.2 volts a cell, the motor knows you started with a 52 volt battery ). On the later motors there is a volt display in the Go+ App on your phone which is OK if as I sometimes do, have the phone for navigation.

Dado manufactures the BBR racing plug in which also corrects the display and will give you correct voltage within the battery section of your DP245 display along with other features. Running 48 volt firmware does have some advantages when running a 52 volt battery. You may want to send him a PM.
 
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With UARTs there were displays which was measuring voltage and calculate SOC. And there were displays you could set nominal battery voltage for calculation. In a menu of display (maybe under advanced - under super secret password. ;)).
With CAN, Bafang dismissed this and motor is calculating SOC % (according battery voltage and firmware voltage loaded and when no CAN battery connected) and then sending SOC % to display over CAN. Display is just showing it.

With 52V battery and 48V firmware you will get more max power. BBR is recalculating SOC and you will get good SOC % when using 52V and 48V firmware. Also possible to discharge battery deeper.
 
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What do the comments on the filenames mean?
"CRX10NC4818i132046.4-01-K1, No power limitation -20230419"
"CRX10NC4818i132046.9-28-2230-20220315 still from 30% limitation"
Comments mean what It says. ;) 46.4 is for new controller.
Throttle with old controllers worked according PAS. New controllers, If I remember right, Bafang did changed and throttle is working still on full power.
Other parameters you asking - just try if suit you. Or go through the forum for answers.
 
Krokan, in fact it is AL - Auto light - outside brightness when it is switching the light on. And with this it will also turn down brightness of LCD.
is there any way to have the brightness always on 100%, also when the light is on. When ligth is on in the sunshine you can not read anything....
 
I decided to update my Opensource DIY EBike, mainly because I am using a better display now, a monochromatic instead of an OLED. This new one is much better to see on outdoors as also is bigger - I am being using this display and firmware on my Fiido Q1S scooter, since one year ago.

A bit more details of the project: EBike Bafang M500 mide drive motor: VESC + DIY ESP32 board running Pyhton firmware | VESC Project

I am sharing the OpenSource schematics for this DIY EBike / ESCooter electronics and software, here on github: GitHub - OpenSourceEBike/EBike_EScooter_modular_DIY: EBike / EScooter app developed in CircuitPython, to control a motor by sending commands to VESC motor controller

I had to open the motor plastic 3D printed enclosure to have access to the VESC motor controller + ESP32 board. The plastic glue I used was great, no signs of water inside!!

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I had to update the firmware, as for this new display communications I am using ESP32Now wireless instead of the previous UART wired communication. And while I was doing that, I also updated the VESC firmware and run again the motor parameters detection - everything went great!!
On the display, I am only showing 3 variables: Battery voltage (to mentally compute the battery SOC); Assist level and Motor Power.
I have configured the system to use max of 15 battery amps, so with my 48V battery, it is about max of 750W!!

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Pictures of the old display, working perfectly, no water inside although with a lot of rust on the metallic screws:

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On the new display I also now use the ESP32-C3 instead of ESP32-S2, because C3 uses about half the power which is important due to the nature of this DIY boards. Also this ESP32-C3 board is smaller:

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The new display is bigger although uses the same 128x64 pixels, so I had nothing to change on the firmware:

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Casiano, good work and good to know this project is stil alive. Just get some experience with welding, it hurts when I look at it. ;)
 
I use a Bafang M500 motor. It started making a rattling sound, I gradually replaced all the gears in the motor. The knocking didn't stop so I bought a new electric motor and replaced it, but the knocking didn't stop. It only happens when the motor is on. It doesn't happen when the motor is off. I don't know what could be causing it. Has anyone encountered such a motor behavior? I'm attaching a sound recording.
 
Vikino, I have a solution. Throw it in a trash and buy M510 or M560. ;))

Anyway, guys with 36V systems (M500 and M510). Thanks to @Neeko findings, was discovered M560 works also with 36V battery. You need original Bafang CAN battery or you can have also DIY 36v battery (even 11S or 12S) and you can trick it with BBR.

Advantages:
- Much better motor, more power. With 36V battery and 25A you will be peaking cca 950W electrical, which is exactly 750W mecahnical at a wheel - same as brand new Bosch gen.5 (so I guess should be also legal this way with speed limit 25kmh)
- All the power adjustments, including torque sensor sensitivity
- Better water proofing
- Better torque sensor with better pedalling behaviour

Disadvantages:
- Little more heavier motor +400g
- A little more noise due to steal gear
 
Dado I've been thinking about it and looking for a good price. But this afternoon I completely disassembled it again and it seems that the problem is gone. I'll test it tomorrow. I probably put the old plastic wheel back in by mistake. So 200eur wasted on an electric motor. You pay for stupidity.
 
Hi everybody. my m600 fw is Crx10nc4818i32014.2, my riding style is enduro that is steep uphills, technical trails and so on. what fw do you suggest for me?
 
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