Is it one of these?
AXA Bosch 2 Downtube Battery Lock & Removeable Key - Trek Bikes (GB)
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Here we can see why the likes of Mondraker and Specialized are able to reduce a lot of frame weight. Mondraker removing everything with an internal battery (without the ability to remove it), Specialized using a single battery bolt to hold it in that probably weighs 20g.View attachment 72145
This mod replaces all the parts highlighted above. So quite a lot more than just the lock barrel.
The specialised being so simple it’s crazy to think that Bosch must think their locking system is better or required!Here we can see why the likes of Mondraker and Specialized are able to reduce a lot of frame weight. Mondraker removing everything with an internal battery (without the ability to remove it), Specialized using a single battery bolt to hold it in that probably weighs 20g.
It's an Abus locking barrel on the trek.Can the lock mechanism not be replaced with a dummy cylinder?
For example when you buy a Yakima bike rack it doesn’t come with locks, but a dummy cylinder
If you choose to buy the optional locks you pull this out and put the locking barrel in.
Ramndomnly I am pretty sure the locks used by Yakima are identical to those used by Shimano.
Likely the cylinder makes up a fair bit of that weight.
What make is the lock on the rail?
If they use Abus as the lock provider, pretty sure you can get a key matched lock?Modding is always interesting, but for me the ability to remove easily the battery was a decisive factor while chosing the Rail.
I ride with a spare battery in the backpack, and the key attached to a cord to it. I can change the batt trail side in less than 30s, and use it a lot !
To bad they integrated the lock in the new 750Wh batteries. This will mean that you have to carry 2 locks while riding with a spare battery on the new generation Bosh eMTB !
Yup, was wondering this too and did discuss it in PM's inconclusively.Ran into a problem. Not sure how the original guy solved it but when you install the battery into the frame you have to insert the bottom end first to hook it onto the plastic latches. Problem is then the new aluminium bracket won't clear the frame when you swing the top end in. In the guide pictures on page 1 he says to put the top end of the battery in first but then you can't locate the bottom end of the battery. Can't see how you can solve this without hacking the bottom end location lugs. Which I don't want to do.
I would like one, willing to pay upfront if needed,. I am tired of the battery coming out. Please include me. Thank youOK I have a CNC machine owner interested!
Can we get 20 orders / £30 a pop to get them made?
And easier to steal ?.... getting my multitool out to undo a bolt to remove the battery is way less convenient than unzipping a pocket on the waistband of my hip pack to get my key which is on a stretchy lanyard.... I really don't get all this fuss over a key.I still want to be able to take the battery off the bike but feel a single Allen bolt would be adequate and more convenient.
There is no key, digital or physical, to stop someone riding off, assisted - with an EMTB smile on their face - with your bike.And easier to steal ?.... getting my multitool out to undo a bolt to remove the battery is way less convenient than unzipping a pocket on the waistband of my hip pack to get my key which is on a stretchy lanyard.... I really don't get all this fuss over a key.
Yes that was what I meant ?Yet there is a key to stop them walking off with just your battery.
When will your kit be available to buy?Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and battery easily removed with a single bolt.
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This makes a helluva lot of sense. I'm surmising that this bolts up through the deleted key barrel hole on the non drive side of the down tube? Would you mind posting a pic of what that looks like?Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and battery easily removed with a single bolt.
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This makes a helluva lot of sense. I'm surmising that this bolts up through the deleted key barrel hole on the non drive side of the down tube? Would you mind posting a pic of what that looks like?
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