Anyone removed the Trek Rail Battery Lock?

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I saw this guy had removed the entire battery lock and saved 360g weight from the rail by removing the mechanism.

Anyone here done it? I don’t like this key mechanism, seems a bit flaky and although the RIB removal is good if you need to remove the battery, I’m interested in removing it completely.

 

[L666GTB]

I’ve removed the lock to wire in my light, as I’m sure you did too. But never thought of doing the above as I will be charging my battery in the warm house over winter.

Let us know how it goes Rob ?

 

[Bramble]

Interesting, so the new angle bracket connects the top end of the battery directly to the downtube via the two screws? So you can still remove the battery if needed but it's a bit more of a faff. Also removes the worry of losing the keys!

Anyone in the UK making the brackets? If not, might give it a go but will have to get the right size thread tap.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Interesting, so the new angle bracket connects the top end of the battery directly to the downtube via the two screws? So you can still remove the battery if needed but it's a bit more of a faff. Also removes the worry of losing the keys!

Anyone in the UK making the brackets? If not, might give it a go but will have to get the right size thread tap.

Looks like you can still remove the battery with the two screws underneath (which is similar to some ‘removable’ batteries on some ebikes on the market)

 

[Bomble]

If anyone can be arsed making one i'll buy one

 

[Bomble]

Where did you see it Rob?

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Where did you see it Rob?

Facebook group for the Trek Rail. I’ve asked the guy for more info and I’ll post everything I find here.

I too would be up for paying for one of these if someone if able to produce!

 

[Doomanic]

Which FB group?

 

[Bramble]

Problem with making them for other people will be the unique fitment required on each frame due to manufacturing tolerances. The two tapped holes really need to be marked and drilled for each installation.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Ok, found the guy that made them. Here’s the steps he’s posted.

It saves 360 grams, replaces the key and lock and battery can still be removed with 2 bolts.

It eliminates the need for the alignment plate. The battery is secured with screws so it shouldn’t fall out.

Also, if like me you don’t carry the key with you on the trails, if for any reason you need to reset the bike, as long as you’ve got a multi tool you’ll be able to remove the battery.

I’ve messaged him to see if he can make a batch.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Anyone know any CNC machiners?!

 

[L666GTB]

Anyone know any CNC machiners?!

Shouldn’t need it. This is something that you’re capable of in your workshop. Steel rule and sharp pencil and copy the dimensions above, I’m sure you have a drill. A basic Tap set isn’t much to buy either.

A metre of angle is available here, enough for many Rails! But they can cut to length too.

2.1/2" x 2.1/2" x 1/8" Aluminium Angle | metals4U

2.1/2" x 2.1/2" x 1/8" Aluminium Angle

www.metals4u.co.uk

 

[BrentD]

Anyone know any CNC machiners?!

My local bike shop conveniently located in Auckland, New Zealand!

Made in NZ bicycle parts and more. BMX, MTB, and custom parts

CNC machined Bike parts, made in NZ, Mountain bike BMX Road MTB, all in one shop, shop local, made local, inventive and different, custom manufacturing available, top notch Bicycle engineering workshop. Established 2001

cxp-racing.myshopify.com

 

[Zimmerframe]

Problem with making them for other people will be the unique fitment required on each frame due to manufacturing tolerances. The two tapped holes really need to be marked and drilled for each installation.

The three battery screw holes need to be side to side slots with countersinking - only a couple of mm - so you can align the bracket to each individual bike.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Shouldn’t need it. This is something that you’re capable of in your workshop. Steel rule and sharp pencil and copy the dimensions above, I’m sure you have a drill. A basic Tap set isn’t much to buy either.

A metre of angle is available here, enough for many Rails! But they can cut to length too.

2.1/2" x 2.1/2" x 1/8" Aluminium Angle | metals4U

2.1/2" x 2.1/2" x 1/8" Aluminium Angle

www.metals4u.co.uk

Prob could, but I haven’t got time to try and sort it with stuff coming up at the moment.

I’d pay £30 ish for a nice finished piece with decent instructions if someone wanted to make a batch up!!

Im sure other rail owners might be interested??

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

OK I have a CNC machine owner interested!

Can we get 20 orders / £30 a pop to get them made?

 

[Doomanic]

The three battery screw holes need to be side to side slots with countersinking - only a couple of mm - so you can align the bracket to each individual bike.

Except you can't access them to tighten them up so you're playing a guessing game.

I think I'd put some high density foam inside the frame that you'd need to compress to get the battery aligned and strap it in place while you mark it. Would have the added benefit of damping any vibrations.

 

[Doomanic]

OK I have a CNC machine owner interested!

£30 a pop

No surprise there...

 

[Zimmerframe]

Except you can't access them to tighten them up so you're playing a guessing game.

I think I'd put some high density foam inside the frame that you'd need to compress to get the battery aligned and strap it in place while you mark it. Would have the added benefit of damping any vibrations.

Der ..

You tighten it up with the screws right most. Put battery in. Measure how far it sticks out. Take it out, move bracket x mm and re-tighten. Put back in and check for flushness.

 

[Doomanic]

So, a guessing game then, as I said. ?

 

[Bramble]

Not sure there is any need to countersink the holes. Think I would oversize the holes slightly and use cap head allen bolts with a washer. Will give a bit of adjustment to get the battery positioned nicely.

 

[Bramble]

So I guess you can remove the steel brace that runs the full length of the downtube with this change? Not sure what it's purpose is really but looks to give some support along the length of the battery between the top and bottom bracket supports.

 

[Doomanic]

What steel brace? My Rail doesn't have that!

 

[Zimmerframe]

What steel brace? My Rail doesn't have that!

That part is actually called the Rail and the bike was named after it. Any without that are normally chinese copies called Snails. Even the motor is a copy - you can normally tell the copy ones as the Bosch badge falls off in the first week and you can see where it says bafang on the small white indent underneath.

 

[Jackware]

Does the lock really weigh over 300g or is the main reason to simplify the battery fit?

 

[Bomble]

OK I have a CNC machine owner interested!

Can we get 20 orders / £30 a pop to get them made?

I’d take one especially if the bolts needed were included in the kit.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Does the lock really weigh over 300g or is the main reason to simplify the battery fit?

Yes, 350g for the lock and mechanism. It’s a big chunk of metal!

For me the key is totally pointless. I don’t know anyone, or have heard of a single owner who has ever had a battery stolen from any EBike (thieves will take the entire bike not just a battery).

Keys are easily left at home, in a van / car etc etc. You also need the key to put the battery back in for some strange reason.

If you’re out on the trail and need to reset the bike for any reason (someone had a 550 light error recently on the trail and didn’t have their key - guess what? They had to push back).

A key is solving a problem that doesn’t really exist. Unless there’s some kinda black market big time battery thieves out there?!

A perfect solution would be for Trek to introduce a quarter turn Allen bolt with a light weight holder inside.

The 350g weight saving and removing the hassles of needing the key to remove and replace the battery outweigh the extra faff of having 2 bolts to undo on the rare occasion that I remove the battery.

I know not everyone will have the same use case as me so it’s not something that will suit everyone.

 

[ghettogolfer]

Yes, 350g for the lock and mechanism. It’s a big chunk of metal!

For me the key is totally pointless. I don’t know anyone, or have heard of a single owner who has ever had a battery stolen from any EBike (thieves will take the entire bike not just a battery).

Keys are easily left at home, in a van / car etc etc. You also need the key to put the battery back in for some strange reason.

If you’re out on the trail and need to reset the bike for any reason (someone had a 550 light error recently on the trail and didn’t have their key - guess what? They had to push back).

A key is solving a problem that doesn’t really exist. Unless there’s some kinda black market big time battery thieves out there?!

A perfect solution would be for Trek to introduce a quarter turn Allen bolt with a light weight holder inside.

The 350g weight saving and removing the hassles of needing the key to remove and replace the battery outweigh the extra faff of having 2 bolts to undo on the rare occasion that I remove the battery.

I know not everyone will have the same use case as me so it’s not something that will suit everyone.

I've got a vertical bike rack and have a frozen right shoulder. Tried loading the bike up with battery and it was a nightmare. Removed battery and bam. Instant success. Whilst I applaud the idea of removing the need for a key, I am one of those guys that will be using it regularly.

 

[aviserated]

Although it is tricky, I like the lock and key. It is also good that we have the lighter weight option also. Beware the cheap charge door in frame...I hear these can fail.

 

[R120]

Can the lock mechanism not be replaced with a dummy cylinder?

For example when you buy a Yakima bike rack it doesn’t come with locks, but a dummy cylinder

If you choose to buy the optional locks you pull this out and put the locking barrel in.

Ramndomnly I am pretty sure the locks used by Yakima are identical to those used by Shimano.

Likely the cylinder makes up a fair bit of that weight.

What make is the lock on the rail?