2024 Strive:ON
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
I was aware of this when buying spectral but it is unnoticeable, don't hear it at all. I also do not notice more pedal strikes according to my previous analog bike. But in near future I may consider to swap crank arms for 160mm.
for me the biggest flaw is headset cable routing and block lock which makes simple bearing service much much harder..
Don't say that, my Strive is in picking now
I'll just keep repeating to myself, Spectral-Bad, Strive-Good...Soon it will arrive and you will wonder why it was such a difficult decision - the strive is awesome, you will have lots of fun with it.Don't say that, my Strive is in picking now
Jagger
Member
I’m close to ordering the Strive. My first E-Bike.
However, being an E-Bike virgin, I have some questions that I hope the forum can answer for me.
My fitness is important to me. I currently ride/race a Lux. I had a quick go (3 minutes) on a Wild in Eco mode and found it too easy. Is it possible to adjust the assistance so that you have to work harder and use less assistance? Or just pedal harder and go faster?
What happens when you hit the limit of assistance? Can you ride through that to go faster?
I only weight 60K togged up. My goal with this bike is longer hard rides 6 hours plus. Is it worth opting for the bigger battery with my (lack of) weight?
The cranks are 165. All my other bikes are 170 and I have a pretty high average cadence (around 105). Is it possible to change the crank length?
TIA.
However, being an E-Bike virgin, I have some questions that I hope the forum can answer for me.
My fitness is important to me. I currently ride/race a Lux. I had a quick go (3 minutes) on a Wild in Eco mode and found it too easy. Is it possible to adjust the assistance so that you have to work harder and use less assistance? Or just pedal harder and go faster?
What happens when you hit the limit of assistance? Can you ride through that to go faster?
I only weight 60K togged up. My goal with this bike is longer hard rides 6 hours plus. Is it worth opting for the bigger battery with my (lack of) weight?
The cranks are 165. All my other bikes are 170 and I have a pretty high average cadence (around 105). Is it possible to change the crank length?
TIA.
Yes, you can adjust the assistance (at least on my Giant e-bike and I'm sure you can on the Strive).
If the assistance is at max then you can still add more of your own leg power. If you hit the speed limit you can still push through but there will be no motor assistance.
I would go for the larger battery, my Giant with a 500wh can just about manage 6-8 hour rides but I have to nurse it and turn it off on the flat, downhill. I'm hoping 750wh will give that little bit more.
Cranks I'm sure can be changed, but I don't have mine yet so don't hold me to that!
I would add on my current ebike and hopefully on my new one I work just as hard, I just go 3 times as far.
Mars2
Active member
For me taking out the headset bearing exactly same job as on bike with "normal" cable routing. it's a 10 minute job max to take them out and back on.
Five screw to unbold after you remove the wheel. kid job
The first thing I did when I got my strive out of the box was to change the fork for a orange fox, Burgtec stem and bar.
For me the job was exactly the same as doing it on my Heckler with "Normal" cable routing.
What make you think it's harder? Did you ever do it on a bike with headset cable routing?
Mars2
Active member
OUps forgot that little screw that hold the cable on the leg of the fork! so that 6 screws!
I don't know if we are talking about same thing...
Yes I have spectral: on, I haven't done any headset bearing service yet, as bike is fairly new but I know sooner or later I will have to replace it.
So there are 3 cables that are routed through upper headset bearing: derailleur-shifter cable, rear brake (hydro cable) and dropper cable. *there is also 4th cable (steps screen) but it can be easily disconnected.
To take out upper bearing completely you need take out shifter and dropper cable then unbolt hydro cable from the rear brake lever.
After replacing bearing obviously you need to put all together, dropper, shifter cable, set shifting and bleed brake. This is time consuming much more than it is on a bike with "classic" cable routing where cables go through ports behind headset usually on the down tube. I know that's not something you do once a month but still, for me I would prefer classic cable routing where cables don't go through headset bearing but nowadays almost every brand using headset routing
hubertsk
Member
Hi folks, hope you're enjoying your Strive:ONs 
Just remember to check if your cranks are tightened properly
The left crank on mine just came loose today on the trail; fortunately, I caught it early and tightened it.
It turned out that the drive-side crank was also loose.
I contacted Canyon, and they admitted they knew about the problem (sic!). They asked me to contact them through the website so that they could somehow fix the problem.
Hopefully, they send me the washer I lost because of that
Just remember to check if your cranks are tightened properly
The left crank on mine just came loose today on the trail; fortunately, I caught it early and tightened it.
It turned out that the drive-side crank was also loose.
I contacted Canyon, and they admitted they knew about the problem (sic!). They asked me to contact them through the website so that they could somehow fix the problem.
Hopefully, they send me the washer I lost because of that
Winryn
Active member
Happened to my canyon road bike on the first rideHi folks, hope you're enjoying your Strive:ONs
Just remember to check if your cranks are tightened properly
The left crank on mine just came loose today on the trail; fortunately, I caught it early and tightened it.
It turned out that the drive-side crank was also loose.
I contacted Canyon, and they admitted they knew about the problem (sic!). They asked me to contact them through the website so that they could somehow fix the problem.
Hopefully, they send me the washer I lost because of that
View attachment 117309
Mars2
Active member
I don't know if we are talking about same thing...
Yes I have spectral: on, I haven't done any headset bearing service yet, as bike is fairly new but I know sooner or later I will have to replace it.
So there are 3 cables that are routed through upper headset bearing: derailleur-shifter cable, rear brake (hydro cable) and dropper cable. *there is also 4th cable (steps screen) but it can be easily disconnected.
To take out upper bearing completely you need take out shifter and dropper cable then unbolt hydro cable from the rear brake lever.
After replacing bearing obviously you need to put all together, dropper, shifter cable, set shifting and bleed brake. This is time consuming much more than it is on a bike with "classic" cable routing where cables go through ports behind headset usually on the down tube. I know that's not something you do once a month but still, for me I would prefer classic cable routing where cables don't go through headset bearing but nowadays almost every brand using headset routing
You don't need to remove any cable.I don't know if we are talking about same thing...
Yes I have spectral: on, I haven't done any headset bearing service yet, as bike is fairly new but I know sooner or later I will have to replace it.
So there are 3 cables that are routed through upper headset bearing: derailleur-shifter cable, rear brake (hydro cable) and dropper cable. *there is also 4th cable (steps screen) but it can be easily disconnected.
To take out upper bearing completely you need take out shifter and dropper cable then unbolt hydro cable from the rear brake lever.
After replacing bearing obviously you need to put all together, dropper, shifter cable, set shifting and bleed brake. This is time consuming much more than it is on a bike with "classic" cable routing where cables go through ports behind headset usually on the down tube. I know that's not something you do once a month but still, for me I would prefer classic cable routing where cables don't go through headset bearing but nowadays almost every brand using headset routing
Like on any bike you remove the the stem, then drop the fork. then you can lift up the ring where the 3 cable goes through and then you have access to the bearing. what is the problem? The cable don't go through the bearing they pass on the side of it. so no cable to remove!!!
Last edited:
Mars2
Active member
Give me 5 minutes and I remove my stem to show you with picture. Like I said kid job
Mars2
Active member
I fact it's me who is wrong. the cable goes through te bearing. Sorry
They pass on the side of the fork not the bearing.
They pass on the side of the fork not the bearing.
Mars2
Active member
Doing this I discover something.
Last weekend after landing from a jump bit too fast I could not avoid a tree that was their just after landing area.
My bar turn 45°.
Now when I dismantle it I see that all the pin on the plastic washes are cut. No more pin but the system still work great.
This make me think that maybe I did not need to make the groove in the Burgetec stem to make those pin go in.
I could just have cut those plastic pin off.
Last weekend after landing from a jump bit too fast I could not avoid a tree that was their just after landing area.
My bar turn 45°.
Now when I dismantle it I see that all the pin on the plastic washes are cut. No more pin but the system still work great.
This make me think that maybe I did not need to make the groove in the Burgetec stem to make those pin go in.
I could just have cut those plastic pin off.
Out of interest, for the OneUp dropper# which clamp/mount do
Hmm. Too late now, ordered some Renthal Fatbar Carbon V2 bars last night in 31.8mm flavour!
Also, did anyone establish if a OneUp 240 dropper would go all the way into a medium frame?
What, they all stay aligned still?
Hmm. Too late now, ordered some Renthal Fatbar Carbon V2 bars last night in 31.8mm flavour!
Also, did anyone establish if a OneUp 240 dropper would go all the way into a medium frame?
Mars2
Active member
Yes they stay aligned. tomorow I will ride again and let you know.
Bike finally arrived on Wednesday, UPS failed on Monday & Tuesday, not the best for sure.
Spent Thursday doing the Invisiframe, tubeless set up etc.
Eventually got out for a ride earlier,rode from mine to the nearest place which is more xc/trail than enduro but good enough for a shake down ride,plus I was short on time.
Did 26k with 726m of ascent in 1hr 52 using mainly embt+ mode with a bit of turbo.
Anyone sat on the fence can rest assured its an excellent all rounder,makes everything fun,don't worry that you'll be "overbiked" it's not an issue, handles trail riding exceptionally.
I did have a play around over a few jumps & some steep stuff both up & down & it's a weapon for sure,munched up everything in its path I was clearing 3m gaps with ease,doesn't feel heavy at all,very poppy & flickable.
I felt comfortable on it almost instantly, feels very similar to my 2022 Bronson,which is what I was hoping for.
Only time I noticed the weight was when I had to lift it over a few gates.
Gotta say I'm very impressed with the spec everything is spot on,you won't need to change anything much with it.
I'm not a fan of sram brakes,but after setting up the bite point & reach they felt good.
Suspension feels great, will dial it in to my taste over a few rides.
Canyon dropper works very well,very impressed.
Cherry on the cake is the new sram axs groupset,wonderful piece of tech,haven't ridden a bike with the old axs on so I can't compare the 2,but this new one was so easy to use,very bling but quality none the less.
So first ride was a great one,looking forward to ride no 2 on Sunday, which will be on more challenging terrain.
Spent Thursday doing the Invisiframe, tubeless set up etc.
Eventually got out for a ride earlier,rode from mine to the nearest place which is more xc/trail than enduro but good enough for a shake down ride,plus I was short on time.
Did 26k with 726m of ascent in 1hr 52 using mainly embt+ mode with a bit of turbo.
Anyone sat on the fence can rest assured its an excellent all rounder,makes everything fun,don't worry that you'll be "overbiked" it's not an issue, handles trail riding exceptionally.
I did have a play around over a few jumps & some steep stuff both up & down & it's a weapon for sure,munched up everything in its path I was clearing 3m gaps with ease,doesn't feel heavy at all,very poppy & flickable.
I felt comfortable on it almost instantly, feels very similar to my 2022 Bronson,which is what I was hoping for.
Only time I noticed the weight was when I had to lift it over a few gates.
Gotta say I'm very impressed with the spec everything is spot on,you won't need to change anything much with it.
I'm not a fan of sram brakes,but after setting up the bite point & reach they felt good.
Suspension feels great, will dial it in to my taste over a few rides.
Canyon dropper works very well,very impressed.
Cherry on the cake is the new sram axs groupset,wonderful piece of tech,haven't ridden a bike with the old axs on so I can't compare the 2,but this new one was so easy to use,very bling but quality none the less.
So first ride was a great one,looking forward to ride no 2 on Sunday, which will be on more challenging terrain.
Well I thought mine was still In Frankfurt, given no news from UPS, but just checked the tracking and it claims to be on UK soil.
Still saying Monday delivery, so hopefully it'll come at a convenient time. I have a work meeting in the morning, so hoping I'll have enough time to do that, then rush home for the delivery.
Then I'll also have the Invisiframe to do, which is not a job I enjoy. At least once it's here I can sling a leg over it to decide which length OneUp dropper I need, then I can order all the OneUp gear.
Still saying Monday delivery, so hopefully it'll come at a convenient time. I have a work meeting in the morning, so hoping I'll have enough time to do that, then rush home for the delivery.
Then I'll also have the Invisiframe to do, which is not a job I enjoy. At least once it's here I can sling a leg over it to decide which length OneUp dropper I need, then I can order all the OneUp gear.
The Invisiframe was actually not as bad as I feared,best job I've made of one so far & it seemed easier than I remember, even did the Zebs,although I was left alone most of the day,which always helps.
What size frame did you go for?
I think maybe the big square down tube might help. And it’s quite a light colour, which may also help. My Spectral was black and showed up every imperfection. I also ordered the Fox 38 kit. Last time I even did my cranks!
I ordered a medium. Thinking about getting some sort of downtube protector as well. Just need to find a decent one.
Not sure on the battery - I think it’s just 625 or 750.
The rims come taped for tubeless, but I believe you need to add valves and sealant.
Yep,that's correct the rims come ready to run tubeless,just need to add valves & sealant.
I've got the 625wh battery in mine,750wh is the other option, I'm guessing it would be compatible with a 500wh but would need a different spacer as it's smaller than the 625wh,which I doubt is available.
Forgot to add about sizing.
I'm 183cm tall & the medium is perfect for me,all I did was move the seat back about 10mm & it was bang on,making the bike feel very easy to move around on.
A large would of definitely been to big for me.
As for weight,when riding it doesn't feel any heavier than my 18.5kg Orbea Rise.
I'm 183cm tall & the medium is perfect for me,all I did was move the seat back about 10mm & it was bang on,making the bike feel very easy to move around on.
A large would of definitely been to big for me.
As for weight,when riding it doesn't feel any heavier than my 18.5kg Orbea Rise.
Let us know why you find for a downtube protector, will definitely be needing one of those.
I was thinking something like this, but anything we get will have to be placed higher on the downtube because of the skid plate.
ALI2 Mountain Style Bike Downtube Frame Protector for Bike Road Bike https://amzn.eu/d/0pUK3u3
Zefal Downtube Armour Frame Protection, Black https://amzn.eu/d/1ENX751
ENLEE Mountain Bike Down Tube Frame Protector, 3M MTB Bicycle Frame Guard - Protect The Bike from Collision and Scratch https://amzn.eu/d/dheobvP
ALI2 Mountain Style Bike Downtube Frame Protector for Bike Road Bike https://amzn.eu/d/0pUK3u3
Zefal Downtube Armour Frame Protection, Black https://amzn.eu/d/1ENX751
ENLEE Mountain Bike Down Tube Frame Protector, 3M MTB Bicycle Frame Guard - Protect The Bike from Collision and Scratch https://amzn.eu/d/dheobvP
Has anyone had an issue with the battery connection coming loose?. I ask because it happened to me on the demo day i went to, the technicians were stuffing bits of carboard in as spacers. I was assured that the bikes they had were the first off the line and that later bikes had been altered.
Didn't put me off though, expecting mine soon.
Didn't put me off though, expecting mine soon.
You pretty much answered yourself, but no, no issue with that at all. Love this bike more every day.
Hey no problem, just helping out the community here, the one in your link is aluminum and is for regular mtb use(just 55g weight).
For ebike use and the DT Swiss hybrid wheels you need a stronger full steel driver(137g weight for comparison).
Got 2 links for u...
Conversion Kit HYBRID Ratchet System® Freehub Body
Product features - Conversion Kit HYBRID Ratchet System Freehub Body Use: E-MTB Type of freewheel: DT Swiss Ratchet System Compatibility: HCX 1200 SPLINE HC 1501 SPLINE ONE H 1700 SPLINE TWO Axle system...www.bike-discount.de
DT SWISS Freehub Body Shimano | SRAM 10-, 11-speed MTB Hybrid | 12x14, 65,04 €
DT SWISS freehub body Shimano | SRAM 10-, 11-speed MTB hybrid | 12x148 mm BOOST thru axle | E-bike pawl system Reinforced freewheel body for Shimano | for er2-bike.com
Also u need to be careful which system you want the Dt Swiss ratchet or the classic 3 pawl design, u need the one your rear hub uses. If in doubt best ask Canyon and Dt Swiss.
Thanks again!
I asked that rearhub and freehub driver body type from Canyon but haven’t got response.
Seems that I need to wait my Strive:ON CFR to arrive (hopefully during this week) and find out serial number from DT Swiss HX1700 wheel. DT Swiss online product support can confirm type and spareparts with wheel serial number.
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