2023 Orbea Wild

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VWsurfbum said:
Wilders, I believe i am in need of a new front chain ring.
What do you recommend ? Pretty sure a 36t wont fit, so 34t, but what make and where to buy is what I'm after.
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Cheap & durable

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I had a sit on an M10 the other day, it’s quite some bike, and I wonder if it’s possibly “too much bike” for me. Which got my looking at the Wild ST with the 600wh battery it still with Gen 5 motor. It’s a little less travel and I think the weight might be little lower overall. Unfortunately, it’s quite a budget spec but for £4,100 ish, maybe it’s a good base to improve? I’ve got a brand new set of Code RSC in my garage I snapped up for £145 that could help it stop, and 29r forks keep coming up at decent prices. I’m not convinced Psylo forks are up to the job…
 
Bike Discount had good price for aluminium Cube 34t. Of course steel is more durable.
 
Inteteresting. Not the first Wild aluminium alloy rear frame which is known for this failure.
Hope your buddy didn‘t go down and is o. k.
 
How long does Orebea's warranty usually take? Can you just buy a rear triangle?
 
Gilbo said:
Hi
That’s a great idea, where did your purchase magnet from.
Cheers.
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Riding the other day back to town from the bike park and the bike was sort of riding like it had square ish wheels, I think it was the wheel balance and suspect the lump of a Bosch magnet was the issue but have not checked to see if its weight is causing the issue. Would love to find a ring magnet as mentioned.
 
Dirtstache said:
I was thinking about getting the AXS Derailleur with the power cord that plugs into the motor so you don't need to keep up with charging a seperate battery, The manual says to use a 800mm cord, but I only see it offered in 780mm and 955mm, I would prefer less slack hanging around if 780mm would be long enough, but I suppose it's better to have more than needed than not enough?

Anyone else running this system in general on the wild?
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Did you try the 780mm cord? I am purchasing a new Wild and would like to install this as well.
 
Hey everyone! I own a 2024 M10 with the original suspension, and I'm thinking about upgrading it...

I've riden about 3,000 km on it in a year and I've had a blast on the trails and descents, usually looking for enduro sections and bike parks without doing big jumps or heavy drops. And I'm not one to constantly adjust the suspension for every ride. If I'm happy with it, I leave it...

I have Performance shocks front and rear, with 160mm of travel. From what I can read in forums, switching to GripX/X2 would be amazing, and the Float X2 or coil shock would be too. It'll be like a new bike, from what I'm reading...

And what about travel? I think 160mm is fine for enduro riding without flying big jump and drops. But I'm wondering if I should upgrade my fork, going up to 170mm, since descents of 1.700ft elevation over rocks, roots, and such are quite challenging...

In fact, the Orbea configuration and geo options for the 23 model also included 170mm front travel. And for Orbea to suggest it, they must have tested it quite thoroughly...

But will it be worse on technical climbs? With tight 180º turns where it's hard to keep the front wheel steady on the road? And what about agility on the trail?

Precisely in this area of agility and maneuverability, important for full electric bikes, I have read the 2025 Wild falls compared to the 2023 model due to the 170mm front and rear travel...

Wow! So, those of you who have upgraded to 170mm forks, are you 100% satisfied or do you experience any issues?

And thanks in advance!!!
 
txominsabin said:
Hey everyone! I own a 2024 M10 with the original suspension, and I'm thinking about upgrading it...

I've riden about 3,000 km on it in a year and I've had a blast on the trails and descents, usually looking for enduro sections and bike parks without doing big jumps or heavy drops. And I'm not one to constantly adjust the suspension for every ride. If I'm happy with it, I leave it...

I have Performance shocks front and rear, with 160mm of travel. From what I can read in forums, switching to GripX/X2 would be amazing, and the Float X2 or coil shock would be too. It'll be like a new bike, from what I'm reading...

And what about travel? I think 160mm is fine for enduro riding without flying big jump and drops. But I'm wondering if I should upgrade my fork, going up to 170mm, since descents of 1.700ft elevation over rocks, roots, and such are quite challenging...

In fact, the Orbea configuration and geo options for the 23 model also included 170mm front travel. And for Orbea to suggest it, they must have tested it quite thoroughly...

But will it be worse on technical climbs? With tight 180º turns where it's hard to keep the front wheel steady on the road? And what about agility on the trail?

Precisely in this area of agility and maneuverability, important for full electric bikes, I have read the 2025 Wild falls compared to the 2023 model due to the 170mm front and rear travel...

Wow! So, those of you who have upgraded to 170mm forks, are you 100% satisfied or do you experience any issues?

And thanks in advance!!!
Click to expand...
Yes, I changed my air spring from 160 to 170 and noticed no downsides.
If you want more comfort from the bike just skip the X2 and get a coil. The Rockshox wont fit the Wild and IMO the Fox coil isn't great. The Ohlins is a great, low fuss coil and I found thier coil calculator to be spot on.
 
I don't own the '23+ wild but the previous wild FS.
Also with 160mm of travel front and back.
At the front, I've upgraded the FOX 38 factory with a smashpot v2.
As it was diving a bit too much, I increased the travel to 170mm.
So not to get more travel, I didn't feel the need to, but to stay a bit higher despite the diving.

At the rear, I've replaced the FOX Float X2 factory with an Fluid Focus tuned FOX DHX.
Tried once but couldn't ride with the air shock again...
So uncomfortable!
 
Hi!
Continuing with the topic of improving the Wild 23-24 for downhill performance, increasing the front suspension from 160mm to 170mm and upgrading the suspension, I'd like to ask about changing the handlebar rise from the stock 20mm (on 800mm length) to 30mm or more. What has your experience been? Is this another factor that could negatively impact performance on technical climbs? And what about switching from aluminum to carbon? Has anyone made one or both of these changes and could share their experience?
Thanks!
 
You may try the rise change, because if it doesn't convince you, you may still be able to fine adjust by moving the stem down.

On another side, 800 mm is wide.
Did you consider to cut the bar?
I'm about 177cm and have my bar cut at 750 or 760mm.
 
jeanjean said:
You may try the rise change, because if it doesn't convince you, you may still be able to fine adjust by moving the stem down.

On another side, 800 mm is wide.
Did you consider to cut the bar?
I'm about 177cm and have my bar cut at 750 or 760mm.
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It's just as it came originally... I got used to it and works well for me... From 20mm rise, how much do you recommend? 30?
Thanks!
 
I went to 35 rise with a 45mn stem if you look at the original stem it has a slight drop to it another option to look at
 
I'm running 800 wide, 30mm stem, 50mm rise. Helps with the steeps, doesnt help with the steep climbing.
 
Finally got around to fitting the internal cable routing conversion. No more cables pointlessly through the inside of the bearings????
easybikeparts.co.uk

Easybikeparts IS52 ICR Upper Headset Assembly for integrated cable rou

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IMG20251226113615.jpg IMG20251226113623.jpg
 
Hi guys.
Better late than never. I managed to fit a new 600w battery into my 24’ MTeam Wild. It was a straight forward swap just requiring the same conversion kit as the ‘25 wild. I dropped 1.5kg from my 750w battery and it’s 23.5kg with pedals. No idea how people are getting them sub 22kg.
Which got me thinking has anyone tried fitting the ‘25 link to the older model? It seems as though nothing else has changed between them and the reviews speak well of how the newer model rides (I can only assume due to the updated link).

Also what length cord are people using for the powerMore?
 
Readochris said:
Hi guys.
Better late than never. I managed to fit a new 600w battery into my 24’ MTeam Wild. It was a straight forward swap just requiring the same conversion kit as the ‘25 wild. I dropped 1.5kg from my 750w battery and it’s 23.5kg with pedals. No idea how people are getting them sub 22kg.
Which got me thinking has anyone tried fitting the ‘25 link to the older model? It seems as though nothing else has changed between them and the reviews speak well of how the newer model rides (I can only assume due to the updated link).

Also what length cord are people using for the powerMore?
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I'm using the 300mm length cord. Don't have an actual pic with PowerMore mounted to my Wild, but this illustration is spot on how it looks.

You will need a specific 2 PC mount in order to securely install on your bike thats included with the battery kit and can be purchased separately if you just have the battery.

Screenshot_20260104_204936_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20260104_205252_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20260104_205224_Gallery.jpg
 
Readochris said:
Hi guys.
Better late than never. I managed to fit a new 600w battery into my 24’ MTeam Wild. It was a straight forward swap just requiring the same conversion kit as the ‘25 wild. I dropped 1.5kg from my 750w battery and it’s 23.5kg with pedals. No idea how people are getting them sub 22kg.
Which got me thinking has anyone tried fitting the ‘25 link to the older model? It seems as though nothing else has changed between them and the reviews speak well of how the newer model rides (I can only assume due to the updated link).

Also what length cord are people using for the powerMore?
Click to expand...
Regarding your battery swap, did the plug and wiring harness from the 750wh fit directly to the 600wh? No modifications?
 
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