2023 Orbea Wild
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
BiGJZ74
E*POWAH Master
Since it only comes with a 750 or 625wh hr battery you would have to fabricate all of the internal mounts to make it fit. Possible if ur an engineer with a 3D printer but not sure why you'd want to unless you're a really small light rider and the bike is too heavy with the 625.
Battery extension for use Bosch PowerTube battery from 400 / 500wh in
- Battery extension to use a 400Wh or 500Wh Bosch PowerTube battery instead of a 625Wh - Screw kit included Compatible with all models using Bosch PowerTube 400Wh and 500
www.ridewill.com
I think that this could be fit.
I would like to do it because I would like to use the bike in the bikepark and also because for my standard use I don't need a big battery. But I could buy a range extender for big trips
Changed the headset bearings today both where standard 52100 bearing steel not the 440c stainless top one so no wonder the top one was rough after 6 months washed the bike before changing them plenty of water on both bearings also changed gear and brake cables original gear cables one was squashed now have much improved shifting.
Would be nice to see enduro look at better steel alloys for there bearings a change to lc400n would dramatically increase corrosion resistance
Would be nice to see enduro look at better steel alloys for there bearings a change to lc400n would dramatically increase corrosion resistance
Last edited:
Did you try it?
mtrain1969
Member
Turns out it is a bad frame and finally Orbea has agreed to send a new frame under warranty. Now to wait for that. Thank god I kept my pedal bike so i can still get out and ride :I
Dang, mine just did the same a couple rides ago and I chalked it up to a slightly loose upper mounting bolt but this is making me more nervous. Did you just submit the pic through their website or local dealer for the warranty claim?
mtrain1969
Member
esmiralda_h
Member
Yes
Thanks
whitedlite
Member
So, I’ve removed the motor now 3 times. Haven’t gotten it back in 3 times yet, what’s everyone’s secret for getting those front motor mount bolts in with the spacer and washer. Aligning the motor without them falling out is a serious pain.
I've found it fairly easy to be honest, I have the bike upside down when doing it, and use some sticky grease the hold the spacers in place when I put the motor is.
The silver washer I drop in once the motor is seated.
I spent some time making sure the cables that run above the motor and nice and flat with no crossover, and have enough give to lay flat, I've never had to push the motor in the squash the cables.
They should be freely moving
whitedlite
Member
It’s the black washer in the front that’s a pain, I’ve also been using grease to help. There shouldn’t be any silver washer inside the frame. Those all go on the bolts to keep from damaging carbon as you torque the bolts.
Do you think this is due to poor linkage tolerance? I was thinking that maybe on this side they need to have preload once you tighten bolts to recommended spec of 10 nM. If thats not the case it would mean that they are sited way to tight ...
BiGJZ74
E*POWAH Master
Nice, Still waiting for mine.
Anyone else having an issue with droppers pushing out the charging port cover? Measurement wise it sure seemed like you should be able to slam a 240mm OneUp on an XL however the last little bit must rub the spring inside the charging port cover which pushes it out so it doesn't seal.
NicoMTB
Member
Yep thats the black washer, the way i did it was:
flip bike upside down
put grease on the washer
push the bolt in , so there is just enough to hold the washer in place , but not sticking out in away it would block the engine mount
swing the motor back in place ( i use the 2 rear bolts as an axis so the motor can " swing" on it)
The you just have to screw it back in place
Crazy, I wonder how much force you need to put the shock in the frame. the mounting must be crooked as hell.
I have the same issues with mine. you can also check the bearing where the ”trunnion side” of the shock is mounted to the frame. They are ridiculous hard to rotate by hand. When the shock is mounted and I move the shock it feels very notchy. I also don’t really know what to do. I contacted Orbea and they told me to contact the dealer I bought it from. Dealer is 400km away and doesn’t give a damn. He said it’s all good. Orbea knows what they are doing. I mean sure thing, they put a bearing in there which is meant to not rotate. Either they have absolutely no idea what the are doing or they just don’t care. Anyhow needles to say that I will never buy orbea again and already successfully talked a friend out of buying a Orbea Occam.
Now that I’m done with my rant. I have to admit, I hope they improve in customer service and quality because the bike rides actually quite nicely.
Last edited:
Unfortunately, this is inherent to the design, and there is not much you can do about it. What tends to help is properly setting up the rear suspension, since rattling noise is strictly correlated with chainring aggregation by the chain working under suspension loads. Mine rattles too…
Is it on Alu frame? I have issue with bearings on carbon rocker. They are sized in place from new.
Nope carbon as well. And also seized from new.
on the rocker and on the trunnion mount in the main frame.
Yeah so it seems we have the same issue. I’ve made warranty claim in my LBS and so far no news. In my opinion bearings are fine but tolerances are way off cussing to much pressure on bearings rollers. Generally I’m a bit disappointed when it comes to quality of Orbea. I mean they do design great bikes don’t get me wrong but tolerances, frame hardware and paint are not on the same levels as for example Santa Cruz.
Similar Threads
-
-
-
-
-
2023 Orbea Rise H30 chainring removal tools and upgrade options?- Started by Bchild12
- Replies: 1