Soapy water in the end but took five attempts. It's a Race face arc 30 & always been an awkward wheel to work with. Also has an offset valve hole which makes sealing the valve difficult too as it can't sit flush against the rim.
What did you do to your EBike this week?
- Thread starter Mik3F
- Start date
Right …my snow/winter wheels are Race Face Arc 35. Offset valve hole also. They were a pain to set until I inserted the Cushcore plus. That wasn’t easy.
I used the Cushcore levers (saved my knuckles) and had to chase the bead around several times. Adding air was no problem though …but it was tight.
the missus has these rims - absolute PITA
I mount the bead to the rim edge with the longest lead in first, then keep blasting it until it gets there
absolutely hate changing the rubber on them
Also the angle of the rim means half of the valve is unsupported
From experience all the Shimano 12 speed cassettes, derailleurs, and chains play together nicely. IMO what is worth having is the 12 speed XT shifter which has super slick up and down multi-shifts.
Hattori-Hanzo
Well-known member
Changed the oil in my XT M8120 from Shimano red to Putoline HPX R 2.5W.
Night and day difference so far, consistent bite point and stopping power.
Night and day difference so far, consistent bite point and stopping power.
That likely could be because you got rid of air bubbles rather than because of a change of fluid supplier.
Hattori-Hanzo
Well-known member
Possibly, but I keep on top of brake maintenance regularly.
I found with Shimano oil the bite point wondered and performance degraded after a few rides, common issues with XT.
The Putoline has been in for two weeks and they are still feeling strong with consistent bite point.
I found with Shimano oil the bite point wondered and performance degraded after a few rides, common issues with XT.
The Putoline has been in for two weeks and they are still feeling strong with consistent bite point.
OldnSlow
Member
Is that patchouli and sandalwood soap? I always use Pacific Coconut and frangipani for the really tough rims. Also great in those delicate, secret little places
Well let me tell you, I did a decent stint at The Bodyshop HQ before it went tits up & to this day I have a pipeline of advanced wheel & tyre unguents. I may not be the fastest shredder but I sure am the most fragrant.Is that patchouli and sandalwood soap? I always use Pacific Coconut and frangipani for the really tough rims. Also great in those delicate, secret little places
JStrube
Active member
resub
SaabaruAero
Member
I was out for a ride on my Pinarello Nytro in the first of June and had an idiot on a bike swerve right in front of me. I T-boned the idiot and went down hard. Broke my left pelvis from the top to the bottom bisecting the socket and to add insult to injury broke my right thumb. Both have now been reconstructed, and after a couple of weeks of rehab I just got home today. Never got any info from the idiot. Helmet worked as designed and is cracked.
I have not looked at my bike yet and will be taking it in for a very close inspection for the frame, fork, and front wheel. Will most likely look at crash replacement.
I have not looked at my bike yet and will be taking it in for a very close inspection for the frame, fork, and front wheel. Will most likely look at crash replacement.
Soft Jaws.
. I did the same on my little vice. I also have rubber soft jaws.
Zed. (Justin is short)
Well-known member
eeeb warranty day today
dropped MrsZ's ksl to a trusted spesh dealer (not locally!) for motor concerns then dropped the Norcosaurous into tredz as the battery is playing up
need to fit the new chain on the Canyon before next ride - hopefully tomorrow
dropped MrsZ's ksl to a trusted spesh dealer (not locally!) for motor concerns then dropped the Norcosaurous into tredz as the battery is playing up
need to fit the new chain on the Canyon before next ride - hopefully tomorrow
My front wheel dropped off the bike rack and the disc hit the tow bar frame. I must have bent the front brake disc slightly because it was making a zshuzhing noise each time the wheel rotated. Not loud at all but irritating. 
In the garage, I could tell between which spokes on the disc it was rubbing, but not which side was rubbing, even if I flexed the wheel! So I used a black felt tip pen to make radial marks each side of the disc in the area where it was rubbing. When I spun the wheel, the marks where it was rubbing had been worn off! Now I had confirmation of where and which side it was rubbing.
I used the Mole grips to grip the rotor and straightened it first time! The felt tip pen marks were easily removed with IPA. Not the hardest thing I have done to my bike, but satisfying all the same.
In the garage, I could tell between which spokes on the disc it was rubbing, but not which side was rubbing, even if I flexed the wheel! So I used a black felt tip pen to make radial marks each side of the disc in the area where it was rubbing. When I spun the wheel, the marks where it was rubbing had been worn off! Now I had confirmation of where and which side it was rubbing.
I used the Mole grips to grip the rotor and straightened it first time! The felt tip pen marks were easily removed with IPA. Not the hardest thing I have done to my bike, but satisfying all the same.
Roaming50
Member
What did I do to the bike this week? Rather what did the bike do to me?
Rather the bike decided that after near 3000 miles that the back wheel wanted a "break".
Heard a massive thwack on a hard g-out. At the time I thought it was because I blew through the rear shock. Rode for another 15 miles with no loss of air pressure but creaking from the bike. Later in the ride, something (tree debris from a flood) grabbed my rear wheel and the bike stopped instantly and I crashed. So it's possible the rim failed on that sudden stop as well. Possibly a combo of the two.
Checked it over at home and found this. Looks like the rim broke in a V shape. There is a central outer wall failure with identical wall failures either side a few inches apart. The inner wall and beed held which is why the tire stayed inflated. Considering I run downhill gravity casing Kryptotals that I consider bomb proof I'm surprised.
These are Reserve 30|SL wheels. Time to see what Reserve's original owner lifetime warranty is like or if they consider this crash damage, what that policy is like. Trouble is I'm having trouble contacting them at the moment.... They're not responding to my inquires and the warranty submit button on their warranty form is not working. Concerning...
EDIT: After typing this, I finally got a response from Reserve. Perhaps they had Monday off after the long weekend.
Rather the bike decided that after near 3000 miles that the back wheel wanted a "break".
Heard a massive thwack on a hard g-out. At the time I thought it was because I blew through the rear shock. Rode for another 15 miles with no loss of air pressure but creaking from the bike. Later in the ride, something (tree debris from a flood) grabbed my rear wheel and the bike stopped instantly and I crashed. So it's possible the rim failed on that sudden stop as well. Possibly a combo of the two.
Checked it over at home and found this. Looks like the rim broke in a V shape. There is a central outer wall failure with identical wall failures either side a few inches apart. The inner wall and beed held which is why the tire stayed inflated. Considering I run downhill gravity casing Kryptotals that I consider bomb proof I'm surprised.
These are Reserve 30|SL wheels. Time to see what Reserve's original owner lifetime warranty is like or if they consider this crash damage, what that policy is like. Trouble is I'm having trouble contacting them at the moment.... They're not responding to my inquires and the warranty submit button on their warranty form is not working. Concerning...
EDIT: After typing this, I finally got a response from Reserve. Perhaps they had Monday off after the long weekend.
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JStrube
Active member
Woah!
Riding in France last week saw by mismatching telltales that Bosch lockrings had come loose on both our bikes. Had previously used a little Loctite 243 and 35nm torque. So fitted new lockrings on both bikes with a little grease, torqued to 45nm, and marked new telltales.
So if these fuckers come loose then will drill new ones and use lockwire.
Edit: was pretty hot, so given that aluminium has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel, wondering if that's why the lockrings came loose. Just a thought.
Edit2: was puzzled by the facts that this is the first time in over 4 years that these nuts have come loose, and on both bikes!
The castle nut alloy probably has twice the thermal expansion coefficient of steel. So perhaps unsurprising that these nuts came loose in the unusually hot weather on holiday in France when we stopped several times and left bikes on their non hanger sides in clear sun when taking refreshment breaks. Also, the castle nut is far more exposed to the sun than the steel motor drive shaft.
Edit3: might be an idea to heat up the lockring/castle nut to perhaps 20C above ambient temperature before fitting so that it effectively shrinks a little as it cools down after fitting?
So if these fuckers come loose then will drill new ones and use lockwire.
Edit: was pretty hot, so given that aluminium has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel, wondering if that's why the lockrings came loose. Just a thought.
Edit2: was puzzled by the facts that this is the first time in over 4 years that these nuts have come loose, and on both bikes!
The castle nut alloy probably has twice the thermal expansion coefficient of steel. So perhaps unsurprising that these nuts came loose in the unusually hot weather on holiday in France when we stopped several times and left bikes on their non hanger sides in clear sun when taking refreshment breaks. Also, the castle nut is far more exposed to the sun than the steel motor drive shaft.
Edit3: might be an idea to heat up the lockring/castle nut to perhaps 20C above ambient temperature before fitting so that it effectively shrinks a little as it cools down after fitting?
Last edited:
WoahRiding in France last week saw by mismatching telltales that Bosch lockrings had come loose on both our bikes. Had previously used a little Loctite 243 and 35nm torque. So fitted new lockrings on both bikes with a little grease, torqued to 45nm, and marked new telltales.
So if these fuckers come loose then will drill new ones and use lockwire.
Edit: was pretty hot, so given that aluminium has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel, wondering if that's why the lockrings came loose. Just a thought.
…you must’ve been angry
. I don’t think 45nm is gonna hurt, but it could stretch the alloy threads for the next time. (You know 35nm is max…right?I wonder if adding a bit of grease affected matters …with the loc-tight.
Btw, a few days ago I heard a noise around the chainring area. I thought …”oh no…castle nut came loose.”
Turns out it was a broken stick between the skid plate and motor, and was barely touching the chainring. Thank goodness
.
35Nm is marked on the castle nut lockrings.Woah
I wonder if adding a bit of grease affected matters …with the loc-tight.
Btw, a few days ago I heard a noise around the chainring area. I thought …”oh no…castle nut came loose.”
Turns out it was a broken stick between the skid plate and motor, and was barely touching the chainring. Thank goodness
Cleaned off any residual Loctite before fitting the new lockrings.
Went to my LBS and talked with the head tech who said (unofficially of course) that as specified by Bosch they use a touch of grease then instead of the Bosch apecified 35Nm they use 45Nm which doesn't seem to come loose.
Don't care if the castle nut thread gets a bit stretched, they're single use.
Might be that using grease instead of loctite helps the nut to rotate a little further before hitting the required torque.
Anyway, my stock of Goodrich lock wire, used in my motorcycle racing days, is standing at the ready. Never thought I'd use it again but didn't bin it, so we'll see ...
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Good to know.
I’ll be installing a new ethirteen chainring soon, with a spare/new/ 35nm stamped castle nut. I’ll probably install the bearing seal kit at the same time.
I think the green Bosch grease should be fine for that purpose. Gonna try 45nm but the castle nut will definitely be one time use.
Btw, I found a larger tube of water-proof green grease at a local auto parts store. Seems to be the same stuff.
Dont forget your 25% off with your PRO deal!
Hmmm
, I might try that, maybe I’ll order 2 ?
Think Permatex package this ^^^, wonder who actually manufactures it?Good to know.
I’ll be installing a new ethirteen chainring soon, with a spare/new/ 35nm stamped castle nut. I’ll probably install the bearing seal kit at the same time.
I think the green Bosch grease should be fine for that purpose. Gonna try 45nm but the castle nut will definitely be one time use.
Btw, I found a larger tube of water-proof green grease at a local auto parts store. Seems to be the same stuff.
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